Electric Dog Fence Installation

Overview of Dog Fence Installation

You should set aside about ten hours for the whole installation project. The first and second steps will take about an hour. Burying the wire will take about four hours (if you use a trencher or edger. Doing the driveway will take an hour. And if everything goes according to plan the final connection and testing will take another hour. (The extra three hours is for the unexpected challenges and the much needed breaks that accompany any DIY task).

The Steps of Installation:


Planning the Installation

The first thing we need to do is have your underground utility lines marked so you know where to be careful when digging. 811 is a free service that alerts water, sewer, electricity, cable and gas suppliers to mark your property with the route of any underground utility lines.

Simply call 811 and the utility companies will mark their underground utility lines with either flags or spray paint.  It can take up to  a week so you will want to call now.  If you have privately installed any utilities like a septic system or lines for gas cylinders you will want to mark these as well.  Most utilities are deeply buried (over a foot deep) and you will only be burying the cables a few inches deep so usually underground utilities are not an issue, but it is better to be safe than sorry and dig carefully in areas where utilities are located.

If possible mark the location of any sprinkler system lines or low voltage power lines for any outdoor lighting system you have had installed.  If you can’t determine the location of these lines, make your best guess.  Damaging a sprinkler line or a low voltage power line is not a big deal, both are easy to fix.  Just be sure to shut off the water and power before you start digging.

Diagram Your Yard

On grid paper, sketch a rough map of your property showing any buildings, paths, driveways, garden beds,  underground utilities and other obstacles.  Figure out which parts of the garden you want to give your dog access to and which parts you want to block access to.

Decide where you will locate the transmitter box.  The transmitter should be located near a power outlet and protected from the elements.  Inside a garage or electrified shed is ideal.

Now determine where you will run your fence.  The fence needs to make a complete loop starting and ending at the transmitter box.  You will use a pair of wires twisted together in places where you want the dog to be able to cross the wire safely. For more details on twisted wire, see here.

Design Principles

Some things to keep in mind when deciding on the placement of wires:

  1. Cross utility lines at right angles – you want to avoid running wire close to a utility line for an extended stretch because, in some rare instances a boundary wires running close to a utility wire can induce a signal in the utility wire making part of your home wiring trigger the collar receivers.
  2. Round corners –  boundary wires should turn corners gradually, avoiding sharp 90 degree turns.
  3. Separate parallel boundary wires – Boundary wires emit signals that will cancel each other out, so you want any boundary wires that are parallel to each other to be at least six feet apart.  Similarly, if your neighbors have a dog fence, keep your wires about six to ten feet from theirs.

Sample Layouts

Perimeter Dog Fence Layout

The most popular layout runs along your yard’s perimeter.  This layout allows your dog access to the entire property.

The twisted wire joins the house transmitter box to the boundary wire.  This enables the dog to safely walk over the twisted wire path.

Where possible lay the boundary wire two yards back from the road to give a good safety buffer for you dog and to allow a space for pedestrians.  Also try to allow three yards between the boundary wire and the house on at least one side to allow the dog room to pass between the front and back yard.

Backyard Dog Fence Layout

The challenge in doing a backyard only installation is that you want the house side of boundary to be inactive so your dog can freely enter and exit your home without getting the correction. However, for the system to work, you still need a full loop of single (untwisted wire). There are a number of approaches you can take:

The easiest way to make a complete loop, while only giving the dog access to the backyard is to make a loop that goes tight around the front of the house too. This completes the loop, but there is not enough space around the front of the house for the dog to have access to the front yard. When you do this type of layout, it is important to do a quick check with the collar inside the house to make sure that the signal is not inadvertently spilling into the house in rooms where you dog will stay. If there is a problem, just decrease the boundary width, or move the wire a little further from the front of your house.

Another popular method is go high over the back of your house. Run the wire up a downspout on one side of the house, across the gutter, and down the downspout on the other side of the house. This vertical height over the ground gives your dog enough space to get in and out of the back door without triggering the correction. As always, you want to test with the collar at the back door to make sure there is no signal accidentally reaching down where the dog will walk. Also test rooms near the gutter line to make sure there is no signal spilling into those rooms. If there is unwanted spill, turn down the boundary width setting on the control box until you are getting no spill. This method does not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.

The final method is to go around the three sides of the yard, then double back on yourself to make a U-shaped loop. The two opposite wires need to be separated by at least six feet to avoid the signals from one loop from interfering with the other.  If they are too close you will not get a nice strong signal along the boundary, and you may have dead spots where there is no correction at all. If you already have a tall fence in place, on way to achieve this without digging is to run one leg of the wire along the top of the fence, and the return leg along the bottom of the fence, so you get the necessary separation. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.

Exclusion Zones
You can also add small exclusion zones to keep your dog out of small areas within your property. For example you may want your dog to have full access to your yard except a small garden bed.To do this you loop some boundary wire around the area you want to protect and join the loop to the main loop with some twisted wire. This does not work with the PetSafe YardMax in YardMax mode.


Figure 8/Hourglass Layout 

The hourglass layout contains the dog in both the front and back yard, but does not allow the dog to cross between the front and back yard. This is great if you want the dog with you in the front or back yard but do not want them crossing between them.
Note that the two loops are connected to each other on the left hand side of this diagram and that they both connect to the transmitter box on the right hand side. One note, where the wires are close to each other as it creates the center of the “hourglass”, you will still want to make sure that they are at least 10 feet apart so as not to have signal interference with its own signal.

Single-sided Boundary Layout

With a bit of inventiveness, you can create a single sided boundary. The only stipulation is that the twisted wire section can only be half the length of the looped boundary wire. For example, if your loop is 100 feet in a circle, you can only run 50 feet of twisted wire back. This install is very popular with people who live in a rural setting and they want to protect their dog from running out onto the freeway. You simply run a long length of twisted wire from the wall transmitter out to the road. Create a long, skinny loop of boundary wire, remembering to keep the parallel sections a minimum of 6 feet separated to avoid the wires interfering with each other. The key for success of this installation method is run your loop far enough along the road so that your dog doesn’t run around it. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.


Lake Front Layout

On a lake front property, if you’d like to incorporate the lake into your fence you have several options.  Do note that there is no danger for your dog to receive a correction when swimming.  The correction level will not change or pose any sort of safety threat.  When incorporating the lake, it’s useful to know if your lake front gradually gets deeper or simply drops off.  Depending on what you’re trying to accomplish will determine how you go about incorporating the lake.  It’s recommended when sinking wire into a lake to run it into a water hose or irrigation hose and sink it to the bottom.  This will protect the wire from critters and fishing hooks.

Lakefront Option One is to simply submerge extra boundary wire out into the lake at your desired distance. Do you want your dog to just be able to walk into the lake a few feet so she can get a drink or lay down in the water to cool off? Or do you want to sink the wire over 10 feet so that she can go for a deeper swim or freely jump into the boat when the family goes out? You’re goal will determine how much wire you plan to sink.



Lakefront Option Two if you have enough yard space, you can use a double back approach to create a three-sided boundary. Simply set an extra length into the lake when doubling back so that your dog will not be able to easily run around the fence. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.



Lakefront Option Three is a modification of the first where you incorporate the dock and boat house, but the lake is otherwise not incorporated into the fence plan.




Gate on the Boundary

The Boundary Gate allows you to create a “gate” along the boundary where there is no correction. This is useful where you have a physical gate that you want to use in this section instead of the electronic fence. For this layout to work, you will need to use the double back layout and keep the parallel wires separated by at least six feet. Where you get to the non-correction gate area, you will bring the two wires together and twist them. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.


Since this requires a lot of extra wiring, many people find it easier to use a non-layout solution. Instead when they create a virtual gate, training the dog that when they you take off their collar and give them permission, they can walk through the gate without fear of correction. This is covered in more detail in the Dog Fence Training section of the website where we look at walking your dog through the boundary.

Load more information on Step One


Mounting the Transmitter Box

The control box (or transmitter box) is the main control unit for the dog fence. It creates the signal that goes through the dog fence boundary wire and creates the boundary.
From the control box, you can set the boundary width (how far out from the wire the warning and correction start).

The control box also includes an indicator that tells you if the fence is operating correctly and will usually sound an alarm if there is a break in the dog fence wire.

Locating the Control Box

The control box needs to be:

  • Near a Power Outlet – preferably, the control box is near an electrical receptacle so you can easily plug it in. When installing a lightning protection module, the power outlet must be grounded (i.e. three prongs instead of two)
  • Near an Exterior Wall – so you can easily run the boundary wire outside.
  • Protected from the Elements – the control box must be sheltered from the elements, particularly moisture, and kept above freezing. Many system manufacturers state that the control box needs to be kept above freezing point, our experience has been that if the box freezes overnight, this is fine as long as it warms up during the day. You may want to test your system in the morning after a cold night to make sure the system is functioning properly.


We usually put the control box in some out-of-the-way location like the garage, garden shed, or in a closet/cabinet on the inside of an exterior wall. After completing the initial installation, you will rarely use the control box, so ease of access is not particularly important.

Weatherproof Box

You can also put the control box outside in a weatherproof box. Weatherproof enclosures can be found at any hardware store, and are found in the electrical section. The weatherproof box provides extra protection if you are placing a control box outside under an eave or on a deck. However, remember, your box does need to stay above freezing.

Mounting the Control Box

Screw the transmitter box to the wall using the supplied mounting screws. If you are mounting onto drywall or masonry, you will need to use the appropriate anchors to get a secure mount. Control boxes are light (around 1 lb), so there is no need to mount them directly into a stud.

Installing the Lightning Protection (optional)

In geographic regions that experience frequent lightning strikes, or for large installations (over 5 acres), it is worth installing the lightning protection module. The module is included in most, but not all, systems. In all other systems, it is available for an additional $40.

The lightning protection module plugs directly into any grounded power outlet. Instead of the boundary wire connecting directly to the control box, the two boundary wires connect directly to the lightning protection module. Two wires are then used to connect the lightning protection to the control box. This configuration protects the control box from surges originating from the boundary wire or surges originating from your home’s electrical system.

Getting the Wire Outside

If the control box is mounted indoors, you need to run the wire outside. If there is some convenient venting or wiring already running outside, then use this opening to run the dog fence wiring. You can also run the wire through a window, or under a garage door. Do not run the wire through dryer ducting. Dryer vents get very hot when the dryer is in use and the insulation on the boundary wire will melt when exposed to this heat.

For most installations, the easiest way to get the wire outside is to drill a hole through the wall, pull the wire through the hole, then caulk the hole to ensure a good seal. Exterior silicone caulk works great for this application.

Load more information on Mounting the Transmitter Box


Laying Out the Wire

First we lay out the wire above ground and connect it to the transmitter box to check that everything is working before we start burying the wire.

Start by laying out the sections of wire along the path indicated in your plan.  As you lay out the sections of wire, Leave about 20% extra wire to allow for burying.  Use twisted pair wire in the twisted pair wire sections, and ordinary single strand boundary wire for the boundary sections.

Now splice all the sections of wire together and connect them to the transmitter box.  Power on the transmitter box.  The transmitter should should show that everything is ok (usually indicated by a green light).  If the system indicates there is a problem (usully an alarm or flashing light), check that all the sections of wire are properly joined so that current can flow and check the wiring layout to make sure the wire forms a loop.

Now test the system using a collar to double check that everything is operational.  When you approach the boundary the collar should beep.

When everything is working, power off the system, disconnect all the sections of wire and proceed to the next section on burying the wire.

Load more information on Laying Out the Wire

Burying/Mounting the Wire

There are five principal ways you can bury or mount the dog fence boundary wire.

Many garden centers and home improvement stores rent trenchers with a cable installation attachment.  This machine digs a trench, lays the wire and then buries the wire (saving you a heap of time).  If you have everything ready, you should be able to do a fairly large property (about 1000 feet of boundary) in a half day.  Expect a half day rental to be about $40 including gas.  See for example.

The larger models are easier to use, but are more expensive and may not fit in the trunk of a car.  The smaller models work fine unless you are doing a very large area.  (e.g. over 2 acres)

Various trenchers will work differently, so ask the shop assistant to give you a demonstration of how to operate it.  Of course, always use safety glasses!

The video below gives you a general idea of how trenchers lay wire.  Note that the video is an advertisement for EZ-Trench, and therefore makes it seem easier than it is.  Pulling the trencher is not so effortless through most soils.  Still, trenching is much easier than laying boundary wire by hand.  The trencher is by far the best way to do the job.

Load more information on Burying/Mounting the Wire


Driveways and Pathways

When you have to lay cable across driveways or pathways you can either: go through the driveway (using either an existing expansion joint, or cutting a slot with a circular saw); laying wire on top of the driveway; or tunnel through the driveway.

The first option is the most popular, because it hides the wire and is easy. Laying the wire on top of the driveway is more visible. And, tunnelling under is very time consuming, so we would reserve this method only for a narrow ornamental pathway that you just cannot cut through.

Expansion Joint Method

If you have a conveniently located expansion joint in your driveway you are in luck. You can just lay the wire in that joint, and caulk over to hold the wire in place.

First, Clean Out the Joint. Clean out the expansion joint of accumulated debris so there is a nice deep trench for the boundary wire, and to help the caulk better adhere to the driveway. A screwdriver makes the ideal tool for this task. Then use a pressure hose or broom to clear away the remaining dirt.



Second, Lay the Wire. Place the wire in the expansion joint, poking it down if necessary with that screwdriver, so that it is as near the bottom of the crack as you can get it.



Third, Caulk. Caulk over the wire with a waterproof caulk. Note that for most caulks to set, the temperature has to be above freezing. So either wait for a warm day, or warm the cement with a torch or similar.



Cutting a Slot with a Circular Saw Method

If you aren’t lucky enough to have a convenient expansion joint in the driveway, the circular saw method is the fastest and easiest way to get across a driveway.  You should budget about an hour for a driveway and about half that time for a pathway.  Professional installers usually do it this way, because you have more control over where you place the wire and it is fast.
Tools Needed:

  • Circular Saw with concrete/masonry cutting blade
  • concrete caulk
  • caulking gun

Find and Mark the Location for your Cut.

Look for a seam that is already in the driveway or path. Cutting along seam will result in a much easier and neater cut. Clean out the seams, these joints often accumulated debris over time. A high pressure washer works great if you have one, otherwise you can use a stiff broom.

If there is no convenient seam, mark out a line across the driveway using chalk. The line will help you make a neat cut.

Second Cut Along your Line with a Circular Saw. 

To make a neat cut, a circular saw will make life easy (a cheap $30 model is fine). You will also need a blade for cutting concrete. Cheap masonry blades are available for under $5 and will be good enough for most cuts – you will only need it for one small cut. For some tougher jobs, you may need a diamond tipped masonry blade which will set you back about $15. Now use the saw to make your cut. The cut only needs to be a half-inch deep. When cutting go slow letting the saw do all the work. If you are making a long cut, take a break every minute to prevent your saw from overheating. Always wear safety glasses when making the cuts as debris will be thrown up. If you need to make lots of cuts. consider renting a concrete cutter from you local home improvement store. (about $50 per day)

Third, Lay the Wire and Caulk. 

Now clean out your cut with a broom. Next lay the wire in the slot you have cut. You may need to use a stick to poke the wire to the bottom of the slot – the warning flags that came with your dog fence work great for this task. Finally caulk over the wire with a concrete sealant. You can buy cans of quick drying concrete at your local home improvement store, they will cost about $3 a canister. We like using Liquid Nails brand Concrete Repair, and the DAP brand Concrete Sealer. Cheaper brands are available in the $1.50 range, but we think the Liquid Nails brand is worth the extra in this instance because it tends to be more durable. Most caulks require a caulking gun for use, if you don’t already have one then you can buy one for less than $5 home improvement store.

When caulking go slow and be neat as the caulk will be visible on your driveway. If you are not confident, use masking tape to cover the driveway on both sides of the cut and remove once you have finished caulking for a neater finish.

Protecting the Ends

The most common place for the dog fence to get a break is at the edge of the driveway where the wire goes from the driveway back to the lawn. This section of the wire is a prime target for your garden edger or weed-whacker. To protect that segment of wire there are easy things you can do:

Bury the Wire Deep. You only need to make a very shallow cut across the driveway. But it really helps if you make a deep cut on the edges of the driveway where the wire crosses over into the lawn. Set you circular saw to full depth and make a cut. This allows you to bury the wire deeper and hopefully keep it out of harms way.


Protect the Wire. Slipping the wire into a short length of PVC pipe will protect the wire against being hit by an edger. The noise will also alert anyone edging to stop edging in this area. Instead of PVC pipe you can also use a old hose pipe, or even put a rock on top of the wire.



Laying Wire Over the Driveway Method

You can simply lay the wire over the driveway. The wire is surprisingly resilient to being driven over. It does tend to wear down over time, but you will typically get 1-3 years of wear out of the wire before you need to replace the section over the driveway. Even better, protect the wire by placing it in an old hose pipe, or a section of soft tubing from an indoor sprinkler system. With this kind of protection the wire will last a lot longer.

One thing to be wary of is that if the wire is not tightly secured to the ground it can become a tripping hazard. So if possible staple it tight to the ground on either side of the driveway.

Tunnel Under Method

Tunneling under is tougher but neater.  You will be creating a passage under the path or driveway.  This avoids putting any cuts through the path and may be useful if you later decide to put in a sprinkler system or outdoor lighting.  The downside is that it is time consuming, you will need to budget two hours for an average width pathway.  Doing a driveway is a labor of love.

On the positive, tunneling under is something you would be unlikely to get if you hired professionals.  If you are willing to put in the time, you can get a dog fence with no scarring of your driveway or pathways.

Tools Needed:

  • PVC pipe (3/4 inch diameter)
  • hack saw

Cut a length of PVC pipe the length of the required tunnel.  Now cut the end of the pipe at a 45degree angle to make a sharp point.  Dig a hole on one side of the driveway about a foot long and a bit deeper than you want the tunnel to be.

Use the PVC pipe to bore through the soil and create your tunnel.  Go only half a foot at a time then remove the PVC pipe by twisting it and empty the soil inside the pipe.

One more thing to keep in mind, you will want to make sure that your tunnel is no deeper than 3 to 4 inches from the surface of your driveway. Any deeper than this and you run the risk of an inconsistent signal between the wire and the collar.

Load more information on Driveways and Pathways


Connecting and Testing

Last step. Connect the wires to the control box and power on the system. Hopefully you will get a green light from the system telling you that everything is working. Hoorah. Do a quick celebration jig!

(We have done a whole heap of installations and seeing that green light is still a whole lot of fun)  Bask in the glow of your victory!!!

If you are getting a broken wire error from the control box, don’t fear.  Nine times out of ten the break is at one of the splices where you joined two pieces of wire.  Check all the joins.  If that didn’t fix it skip to the section on finding a break in the dog fence wire and hunt down that break.

Now the last part of the installation is setting up the boundary flags.  Adjust the boundary width on the control box so that the boundary reaches the desired width.  Make sure the boundary is at least three feet wide on either side of the wire, much narrower than that and it will be hard to train the dog.  It is easier to start wide, then narrow the width after the dog is trained to give the dog more space than to try and train them with a boundary that is too thin.

To test the boundary, take the collar and the included test light tool (making sure you are not touching the probes), and hold it at approximately the height of the dog’s head and get closer to the boundary wire until you hear it beep or see the collar light flash.  Now using the collar as your guide set the boundary flags at the point where the collar begins to beep and/or flash.  Try to space the flags no more than two yards apart, preferably closer.

In places where you cannot plant the flags in the ground such as the driveway, lie the flags down on the ground.

Congratulations.  Take a breather.  Then when you are ready, lets get started on the most important part, training your dogs to use the system.

Load more information on Connecting and Testing


  1. Clayton says:

    I live on a farm with 3 sides of my yard already fenced, can I put just one line across the front of the house, or does it have to be a loop?

  2. paul says:

    my back yard is fenced in but id like to remove the south fence to install a invisible one.THE SOUTH FENCE IS ABOUT 160 FT WIDE do I need to loop it or can I run it straight

    ADMIN – Hi Paul,

    You will need to configure your loop to be oblong following the single sided configuration provided here

  3. steve says:

    I have a 1200-foot old invisible fence wire which has a number of partial breaks that are difficult to find. I want to install a whole new wire fence with better insulated, higher grade wire. Was is the best wire and wire gauge to use? Do I have to remove the old wire? Thanks.

    admin – Hi Steve. The thickest wire that will fit into most transmitters will be a 14 gauge wire. You will want a high density polyethylene coating for durability.

  4. Erica says:

    We had the wireless fence with our old home. Whole yard, easy install. New house will be back yard only. If i run the wire thru metal conduit along the house, and the wire around the yard like a normal install. Will this work for the dog not getting hit entering the house?

    ADMIN – Hi Erica. You do not want to run the dog fence wire through metal of any type. The Boundary Wire should be installed 5-10 feet away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal or wire fencing, HVAC equipment, other electric fencing, underground utilities, etc) to avoid amplification problems, unintended corrections to the dog’s collar or signal interference. Please visit the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page to see some options for a backyard only layout that allows the dogs to enter and exit the home without receiving a correction.

  5. Cheryl Vos says:

    Our power comes in underground to our house i would have to cross over it. Is there any special thing i will have to do? Also have a gravel driveway to cross. Will old garden hose work to protect the wire? What do i have to do to cross wetland area?

    ADMIN – Hi Cheryl. You can cross underground power lines at a 90 degree angle to minimize the chance of interference. You will not want to run parallel to the power line any closer than 10 feet.
    To cross a gravel drive, we recommend putting your wire through plastic tubing or an old garden hose, with the metal ends cut off, to assist with protection. You will want to make sure the wire is no more than 3 inches deep in order to maintain optimal contact between the wire and the collar.
    You can also use plastic tubing or an old garden hose to protect the wire in the wetland area. If you decide not to bury your wire in this section, you will want to tack it to the ground with lawn staples about every 10 feet or so to hold the wire in place when it floods, thus keeping your boundary line consistent.

  6. Jupin says:

    I’ve noticed you talking about running the wire up and down through downspouts and alongside gutter, my question is, can you lay the wire down inside of the gutters, and down through downspouts. If you’ve already answered this, I apologize.

    ADMIN – Hi Jupin. Yes. you should be able to lay the wire in the gutter. You will want to test your system to make sure that the gutter is not amplifying the signal in any way.

  7. Brenda Milex says:

    Pipe fencing and barbed wire fence around yard. Don’t want 70lb boxer to get too close to fence cause he’s a jumper. What height should wire be installed? Can’t bury wire due to rocky soil conditions! Help.!

    ADMIN – HI Brenda. With jumpers, escape artists, or diggers, we usually recommend laying the wire inside the fence so that they do not even get to the fence to escape. Then you will want to set a wide boundary width for notification.

    The Boundary Wire should be installed 5-10 feet away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal fencing, HVAC equipment, etc) to avoid amplification problems and unintended corrections to the dog’s collar.

    With chain link/barbed wire/metal fences, we recommend laying the wire on top of the ground in the location you want and testing the collar to make sure it beeps and corrects at the right location on the perimeter loop. This way, if you need to move the wire closer to or further away from the fence, you can do so easily. Once the correct location has been determined, then you can bury your wire 1″ – 3″ in the ground or tack it to the surface of the ground using lawn staples to hold it in place.

    Keep in mind that your dog will not receive a correction until s/he actually crosses the boundary wire.

  8. Jana Spicka says:

    We have a PetSafe Max system. Installation is complete but the beep on the collar is so faint. And the flashing seems so close to the wire. Any suggestions?

    ADMIN – Hi Jana. In YardMax mode, the warning beep will be very close to the wire because that mode pushes most of the boundary on the outside of the wire. The warning zone is not adjustable in YardMax mode. The collar beep should be audible to the dogs and if not, I would contact PetSafe directly to inquire about the warranty if the collar is not functioning as it should.

  9. Kim says:

    Hi there! I appreciate any help you can give us. We have a 1year old husky and just moved. We’d like to put in some fencing. We have about an acre in our backyard but it’s ‘hilly’. What do you suggest?

    ADMIN – HI Kim. I would recommend looking at a couple of the wired fence systems. As your yard is hilly, a wireless system would not be the better option for you. I would recommend checking out these two systems, PetSafe Yard Max PIG00-11115 and the PetSafe In-Ground Fence PIG00-13661, for starters, to see if either of these sounds like it might be a good fit for your dogs and your property.

  10. Nathalie says:

    Can I run the wire through a ditch drainage conduit under my gravel driveway. And if yes, should I put it through PVC or garden hose first. Thanks

    ADMIN – Hi Nathalie. Most drainage conduits are too deep and made of metal. This runs the risk of being too deep to communicate with the dogs collar and the metal would interfere with the fence signal. The Boundary Wire should be installed 5-10 feet away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal fencing, HVAC equipment, etc) to avoid amplification problems and unintended corrections to the dog’s collar. We recommend laying the wire on top of the ground and testing the collar to make sure it beeps and corrects at the right location on the perimeter loop. Once the correct location has been determined, then bury your wire 1″ – 3″ in the ground. If you need to cross a driveway, you can see examples of how this can be accomplished on our Driveways and Paths page. You can always run your wire through a garden hose with the ends removed or a length of flexible plastic tubing for extra protection.

  11. Wendie says:

    Hi – we have a Border Collie mix pup that will get around 45-50 lbs- want to do continuous loop, but one entire side will be under water- should we run that through pvc (which will also help the wire from moving with the current) Is there a better wire to get for this exposure? Will the pvc lessen the signal? How deep does it need to be so he can still jump off the dock ( to have docks & boat launch be accessible to him)? Recommendations on a good system with waterproof collar? Thanks!!

    ADMIN – Hi Wendie. How old is your puppy? We do not recommend beginning electric dog fence training until your puppy has reached at least 6 months of age and they are able to perform a reliable sit, stay, come, etc. The signal between the collar and the wire will lessen or disappear if the distance between the two is too great. You can run the wire through a flexible plastic tubing to add an extra layer of protection to the wire that is underwater. I would tack it to the bottom surface using lawn staples or something similar to hold the wire in place. The tubing will not lessen the signal but, again, the distance between the wire and the collar will. To see several options of layouts around water, please visit the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page.

  12. Mel says:

    I mow with a kubota tractor would the system still work if i went deeper than 3 in. Thank you for your time

    ADMIN – Hi Mel. We do not recommend burying the wire more than 3 in due to the strength of the signal. The deeper you bury the wire the weaker the signal will become and the larger the chance that the collar will not pick up the signal allowing your dog to leave the containment area without receiving a correction.

  13. Matt says:

    We moved into a house that previously had some invisible fence installed, however the previous owners took the control unit with them. Assuming the wiring is still intact and is in the same place I want it, can I buy pretty much any controller and collar combo and have the system operational? I would obviously check with the collar where the boundaries are before attempting to train my dog. I have a 30 lb beagle mutt if it matters. Thanks!

    ADMIN – As long as the wire that is there currently is in good shape, you should be able to use it with any transmitter/collar system. Simply connect the new transmitter, and test the collar with the Test Light Tool on your new dog fence system. How large is the containment area? What is the age and temperament of your beagle? Please have a look at the reviews for our wired fence systems to see what may be the best match for you and your dog.

  14. david says:

    the power to my house is buried. how far from the underground power cable should I bury my underground dog invisible fence wire?

    ADMIN – Hi David. We recommend keeping 5-10 feet distance between underground cables and the Boundary Wire to avoid amplification problems. The Boundary Wire should be buried 1-3 inches in the ground.

  15. Lori says:

    I have 10 acres of property and it is landscaped just around the house the rest is open but is sloped and hilly. What would be the best above ground system for me? thanks Lori

    ADMIN – HI Lori. You will need 3,000 feet of Boundary Wire to contain your dog(s) in a 10 acre perimeter loop. What is the age, weight, breed and temperament of your dog(s)? Answering these questions will help me match your dog(s) to the best electric dog fence.

  16. Jenny says:

    I have purchased a system for your website and will be installing this weekend. I will be running about 2000 ft of wire. There are several spots that I will need to cross under a woven wire fence. Will this cause an issue? I know you recommend staying 5-10′ away from metal fencing.

    ADMIN – Hi Jenny. Yes. We recommend running the boundary wire 5-10 feet away from the metal fencing to avoid amplification problems. If you do have to cross under the metal fencing do so perpendicularly with the wire buried 1-3 inches underground.

  17. Stephen says:

    my Jack Russell terrier keeps coming out of his collar. he has a very fat neck. do you have any suggestions on how we mighy use a collar with the wireless fence. The dog will not stay in the yard and we now live next to a very busy highway.

    ADMIN – Hi Stephen. What is the age, weight and neck size of your Jack Russell Terrier? Wireless dog fences do not work with slopes, metal, trees and sheds. Have you looked at the PetSafe YardMax PIG00-11115 electric dog fence?

  18. Amanda says:

    We moved to a new house this week that has a fenced backyard but our 30 lb Brittany spaniel has jumped the fence twice. We had no issue at our old house with a different type of fence. She seems to get carried away “hunting” and I’m afraid she will run away. My husband and I are not very handy and we also have two small children. What would be the best option for us? Our lot is .3 acres and pie shaped with a fair amount of trees. We only want to worry with the back yard. We also rent so we aren’t here permanently. I would appreciate any help. Thanks!

    ADMIN – Hi Amanda. Congratulations on your new location! Does your fence contain metal? The PetSafe YardMax PIG00-11115 electric dog fence is a good choice for your 30lb Brittany Spaniel and your .3 acre yard size. We recommend setting the transmitter to Traditional Mode “B” and adjusting the Boundary Control Dial to the appropriate Boundary Width setting. For example, if you set the Boundary Width Control Dial to 6 you will have 3 feet of signal on each side of the boundary wire. The boundary wire can be installed in front or along the bottom of the wood fence. This prevents the dog from damaging, digging, or jumping over the fence. The boundary flags are set at the 3 feet warning zone inside of the pet area. You can place the flags 10 feet apart around the warning area inside the boundary wire. Then, test the Collar with the Test Light Tool to make sure the collar is beeping and correcting 3 feet inside of the boundary wire. You can also install the boundary wire on top of the ground with Lawn Staples. This is a great installation option for people who want to remove the Lawn Staples, roll up the wire, disconnect the transmitter, and take the collar with them to the new location.

  19. Gen says:

    I a unable to do the installation myself. Do you have a list of contacts who could do this? If not thoughts on who might?

    ADMIN – Hi Gen. All PetSafe Equipment is designed to be installed as a “Do It Yourself” dog fence. However, you can search and find installers in the Yellow Pages. You can also search and find dog fence installers on CraigsList. When you perform your search look under dog fence, pet fence installer, or handy man. You can also visit http://www.invisiblefence.com to find a list of dog fence installers. However, they don’t work on PetSafe equipment and the coverage area for service varies by zip code. They also have their own pricing.

  20. Neil says:

    Hi- I am hoping to install a yard fence this winter, approx 3 acre coverage. I would plan on using stakes and 14g wire, conduit over driveway and trail where i’ll use a skid steer, and staking the wire over the rest of the property in the woods. Would the wire have a shorter lifespan if it’s not buried? I’m looking at the pet safe yard max for 3 dogs. i see they sell a system with 2000ft of 14g wire and also 50ft of twisted wire. what’s the twisted wire for? thanks

    ADMIN – Hi Neil. The 14 gauge wire will have a longer life span if it is buried 1-3 inches in the ground. However, tree roots and seasonal temperature changes are the leading causes of wire breaks. What is the age, weight, and temperament of your dogs? The PetSafe YardMax PIG00-11115 is our new top choice in-ground dog fencing. You need Twisted Wire to connect the Transmitter to the Boundary Wire. The Twisted Wire must be installed to cancel the radio signal between the Transmitter and the Boundary Wire to avoid interference problems.

  21. Steve says:

    My 1500′ in ground containment system is well over 10 years old with many splices in the wire. In some places the wire is a heavier gauge than in others, but doesn’t exceed 14 gauge. Some of the wire is solid, some is the braided wire that came with the system and some is OEM replacement wire from the local home goods store. It is in PVC conduit in heavy vehicle traffic areas. Recently, the transmitter and wire system will work fine, then start beeping. Changing the setting dial will not stop the beeping, and if I take the wire break locator to the yard no break in the wire is found. When I unhook the WBL unit and re-attach the regular transmitter the loop becomes operative again and will function normally for a few hours or a couple of days before the beeping returns.

    ADMIN – HI Steve. I’m sorry to hear about your problem. It is recommended to use the same gauge for Twisted Wire and Boundary Wire. It is not recommended to mix dog fence wire with wire from a local home goods store. The dog fence wire has a 45 mil thick insulation and is rated for underground burial wire. Also, all runs in the Boundary Wire must be the same gauge in order to keep a consistent radio signal in the perimeter wire loop. Finally, installing too many splices in the Boundary Wire can cause the Transmitter alarm to sound. Have you installed the Gel-Filled capsules at every wire splice? If not, this can also cause the Transmitter alarm to beep.

  22. Michael says:

    I am installing a loop around my yard for a PIG00-13619. It says leave at least 5′ between lines, but with only a 3′ fence it isn’t realistic for me to dig 2′ all around my yard. Is it possible just to do 3.5′ or 4′?

    ADMIN – Hi Michael, yes you can do just that.

  23. Danny Breidenbach says:

    Can wire be run through a conduit in the ground? What kind works or doesn’t work? I’m paranoid about breaks.

    ADMIN – Hi Danny, you can use any non-metal conduit, hose or pipe to run the boundary wire through. That will greatly increase the protection on the wire.

  24. Vicki says:

    I have a Petsafe Professional ProTX-1tm unit that I had installed by “Radio Fence” approximately 4 or 5 years ago. We have had breaks in the wire over time and now have pulled all of it up.They had buried it in the ground through the woods with a trencher , so in the beginning it cost us quite a bit of money. I now see on your website that you can just install it above the ground using lawn stakes. This is what we would like to do now since we are going to do it ourselves to save ourselves a lot of money. I’m not quite sure what size the twisted wire is that comes out from the box. My questions are: #1/ Would the size 14 wire be the best for fencing 3 acres of heavily wooded area? #2/ Being I don’t know what size the twisted wire coming from the box is, can I just splice the 14 wire to it even if the twisted wire is a different size?

    ADMIN – Hi Vicki, we do recommend installing at least 16 gauge wire for your above ground install. so, 14 gauge is even better. I would wait and compare the twisted with the 14 gauge wire before making a decision. If the gauges between the two are similar the system will work great, but if they are vastly different then the wall transmitter will not recognize a complete loop and will beep.

  25. Tom says:

    I have an existing perimeter fence. Can I splice into it to make it a smaller area as well as, leave the existing area?

    ADMIN – Hi Tom, I would run new wire but leave the old boundary loop intact. Then you can switch back to the original loop by simply switching out the wires connected to the wall transmitter.

  26. Jessica says:

    Hello, We just purchased an underground SportDog system. We will be covering two acres of property going off of the backside of our house. I would like the dogs to be able to go in and out of the back door without having to take the collars off. Is there a way to make a small area where our door would be that they could cross without getting zapped. Some of what I read states to run the wire on the roof, but I would prefer not to have to do that. Thanks so much

    ADMIN – Hi Jessica, yes. But we achieve this with one of three layouts: 1: you can run the wire along the back of the home in the gutter up high, 2: you can wrap the wire around the front of the home, or 3: you can create a double loop. You can locate illustrations of these 3 options in our Installation page under Planning/Layouts.

  27. Don says:

    I am seriously considering putting the invisible fence in this spring (if spring ever comes). I have two questions. One I am not sure how i will do it. We have a 35 ft deck with 3 different ways to get off it. I only want her to be able to use two of them. What is going to stop her from going under the deck and out? Also I live in Upstate NY and we get A LOT of snow at times and will invisible fence work thru feet and feet of snow? Thanks

    ADMIN – Hi Don, I would recommend going with the PetSafe YardMax. It will work great with snow. As snow builds, you simply increase the radius signal to compensate. As for the deck, I recommend using an Outdoor Rock zone that will create a signal just around those steps. The Outdoor Rock is compatible with the YardMax collar.

  28. Alexandra says:

    I am thinking about installing the Petsafe Yardmax system for my dogs. My house does have metal siding, and I would have to put the transmitter inside my house. I’m thinking of putting the transmitter box in the basement and running the wire out through a hole in the foundation wall. I plan on using twisted wire from the transmitter out to the edge of my boundary and then boxing the house inside a big rectangle as in the perimeter layout design. My question is, will my siding interfere with my fence? And if so, how far from the house would the boundary wire have to be for the fence to work properly?

    ADMIN – Hi Alexandra, your siding should not create an issue.

  29. Phillip says:

    I live on a little less than 1/2 an acre of land. From the top of my property at the driveway to my back yard, the angle can be close to 45degrees. Before I actually install a wired fence for my Jack Russell, I wanted to get your take on wireless fences. I’ve seen some comments from people saying that the ground needs to be fairly level for the wireless receivers to work, so I’m hoping you can provide some input. Thanks!

    ADMIN – Hi Phillip, with a 45 degree angle, you’re not going to be able to establish a signal with a wireless fence. The wired fence is the best way to go and will provide you with a great long term solution.

  30. Jenny says:

    We are thinking about getting an electric fence for our two dogs. A bulldog mix age 4 and a bichon age 13. Is it safe to use on an older dog? I am thinking that we won’t be able to use a wireless system because we have a metal roof on our house and we have a metal barn in the middle of our property. Is it easier to install your own or better to have it installed?

    ADMIN – Hi Jenny, if your old dog is not a containment issue, you do not have to collar them. Overall, the dog’s age is not significant as long their mobility and vision are good. With the metal roof, the wireless fence is not going to work. Much cheaper than paying an installer and it really is not very difficult to install. You can do it Jenny!

  31. Max Davis says:

    I have the SD-2000 system for my dog. I installed the wire around my backyard, which has a natural boundary of fence that my dog would regularly jump over. Where I ran the wire over the driveway, the fence extends past the boundary of the house, and there is about 4 ft between the wire and the fence. I have found my dog hanging out past the containment system, but not past the natural boundary of the fence–except for this morning she got out. I am going to move the wire closer to the fence at the section of the driveway. My question is do I only need to splice the wire at both ends of the driveway and add maybe a foot or two to extend the containment area closer to the fence?

  32. Kev B says:

    Hi, We have an English Pointer, around 60 pounds. Our property is tiny, around 8000 sq ft, but we have waterfront on a pond. Our dog likes to wander in the shallows watching fish so I’m wondering if I can run wire around the property and loop it into the pond. Will the wire still work or will it corrode? Secondly, since I have such a small property does it pay to get a thicker wire? What gauge to you recommend? many thanks! Kev

    ADMIN – Hi Kev, you can run the wire into the water as you say. You can review our lake front layouts by clicking on Planning/Layouts on the drop down menu under the Installation menu heading. With small properties you can upgrade to as big as 14 gauge as long as there the boundary wire is 10-15 feet away from where your dog will be leaving the house.

  33. Pete Derkowski says:

    Hi, I just set up a large test area to find the field widths for the petsafe ultrasmart system we bought. With the field width dial at 12:00 the collar began to beep 3.5 ft from the wire. I then set up an hourglass configuration on top the ground around my house. I used about 600 ft of wire so its set to Small. The field width is about 1.5 ft when tested several feet away from the garage wall, and along the property line it is non existent. Along the rear of the yard it’s about 2 feet. My next door neighbor has a “DogWatch” system installed about 3 ft from the property line. I’m about 3 ft from the same property line, so I didn’t think there should be any problem. What could be causing the decrease in field width? And what could be causing the no-signal problem along the property line? Pete

    ADMIN – Hi Pete,

    The problem is most likely interference from your neighbor’s system. You often need around 12 feet of separation to avoid interference. You can test this out by having hte neighbor temporarily switch off their transmitter and see if the problem is fixed.

    To permanently fix the interference issue, you either need to create more separation between wires, turn down the boundary width on both systems, or switch your system to a dual-frequency system that can avoid interference (like the Perimeter Ultra).

  34. Susan says:

    Part testimonial-part question. I love my new fence! I’m not completely done with installation but the dog (some sort of hound mix with some retriever-60lbs), who was already trained to a remote PetSafe trainer (sort of) has picked up the idea not to cross the flags in just 2 days. We haven’t done the hard tests yet though. I also installed the indoor zone first and she immediately learned to stay out of the excluded room. Anyway, the issue I have now is with my PetSafe UltraSmart. I made a loop of fence just across the front of our property using a little over 600 ft of 18 gauge wire. I twisted 85 ft of wire back to my transmitter. I have the sides of the loop separated by between 10 and 20 feet in all places. the loop is currently just laid out on top of the ground. I have the transmitter set on large field and the boundary dial all the way up. The transmitter is green and the collar does beep but not until the dog is within about 5 ft of the wire. I was expecting twice that. Why is my boundary so narrow? Could it be that I have the transmitter plugged in next to a metal shelving unit?

    ADMIN – Hi Susan,

    Glad to hear! There are two potential issues:

    (1) Sounds like you have the unit cranked up much higher than it needs to be. Sometimes when you turn it up that high, the signals from the opposite sides start cancelling each other out and you get a limited range. I would turn the boundary dial down to around 9-oclock, and turn the field size down to small and see if that helps.

    (2) Big metal things (like your shelving unit) nearby can also cause problems. Try temporarily moving the transmitter and see if that fixes the issue.

  35. Sharon says:

    Hi! I have had a petsafe underground basic system for two years now. I have kept the boundary width control set on 3 (0-10). This week the unit stopped working, and will only work if I set the control to 10. With the unit set on 10, there is still only about 6 inches of correction area before my dogs can cross. I replaced the unit and am getting the same results with the new unit. Could this be in the wire or interference with something in the area? Thanks!

    ADMIN – Hi Sharon,

    The symptoms you describe are consistent with a partial break in the wire, so the system is only working when you run a lot of power through the wires. You may also notice that it works better when the ground is damp.

    The most likely spot for the break would be at any splice points, and where the wire crosses the driveway or pavement (where they are likely to get hit by an edger). If you can’t find the break by inspecting the wire, you will need to use a wire break locator to find the break.

  36. Paul says:

    Does the wire have to twist coming out of the transmitter. Or can I go out one corner of the garage and back in the opposite corner and connect?

    ADMIN – Hi Paul,

    The wire does not have to be twisted coming out of the transmitter. You only use the twisted wire if you want that section of the fence to be non-active. With your layout, it sounds like you want the wire to be active as soon as it leaves the transmitter and so would not have any twisted sections.

  37. jim says:

    Hi, I have two 135 lbs. bullmastiffs. With a dog that large will a shock collar for the invisible fence work. All the testimonials bout the fence have been for small dogs. Thank you Jim.

    ADMIN – Hi Jim,

    With very large dogs, or guardian/fighting breeds it is best to use one of the systems with a higher maximum correction strength. You fit into both those categories! Now, you may not need that high strength, but in some cases with these breed it is necessary to use a stronger correction to get the dog’s attention than you might with say a smaller timid breed. A good choice is the PetSafe Stubborn.

  38. Frank says:

    I am going to install my new wired fence with the back yard only. Instead of looping could I run a wire through the basement to complete the loop?

    ADMIN – Hi Frank,

    You can indeed complete the loop by run the wiring under the house by going through the basement. As long as the dog doesn’t use the basement, the vertical separation will allow the dog to pass over the wire on the ground floor without getting the correction.

  39. Jeff says:

    If I want a linear barrier, using the loop, how far away does the wire need to be separated?

    ADMIN – Hi Jeff, separate the loop by 4 foot minimum.

  40. DebbieB says:

    Planning to use solid 14 gauge solid wire. What length of untwisted wire do I need to plan for to make 30′ of twisted wire? How difficult is it to twist this size wire? Can a 30′ section be twisted at one time, or do you have to twist in smaller sections and, if so, how do you do that? (The drill method I’ve seen demonstrated would only seem to work at the end of the wire. I’m not sure how to use the drill if I have to twist in sections.)

    ADMIN – Hi Debbie, What you will need to do is unroll a little more than twice the distance you need. I would recommend 70 feet in your case. Then fold it in half and put the loop end over a fence or door knob and tighten the two open ends in an electric drill to twist it. Make sure to achieve 1 twist per inch. You should be able to twist that length but anything more than that may be too heavy to twist. You can twist 1, 30 foot section for sure. For multiple sections of twisted wire, simply splice them together.

  41. Lakeside says:

    Are there systems that do not require a closed loop system?

    ADMIN – Hi there, the only systems that do not require a closed loop are the wireless fences.

  42. Jamie says:

    I have a 70lbs 7 month old doberman. What type of fencing do you recommend for a 1 to 2 acre area? I am new to this and really need something dependable as He will have access to outside for long periods of time while I am at work. Thanks!

    ADMIN – Hi Jamie, For a doberman of that size, I would recommend the PetSafe Stubborn fence. It has a capacity of 10 acres and comes with enough wire to cover 1/3 of an acre. To cover up to 2 acres, make sure to add in an extra 1,000 feet of wire. With great training, you should expect 100% containment.

  43. kelli says:

    Hello, I was wanting to know how much it would cost for about 2 1/2 acres? I have 5 acres but my house takes up some what part of my property and then I don’t want to fence my front yard. would you say about 2 1/2 acres? or I don’t know…just wanting to know….my family has been really excited to have a fence but we just don’t have enough money. I love my dogs and I can’t stand making them live in a little area. I have 3 dogs a German shepherd and a German sort haired pointer and also a Yorkie. this was a longer comment then I thought I was going to type but I just have a lot to say I guess. What do you think the best fence would be for me and my big family I have? How much wire comes in one package?

    ADMIN – Hi Kelli, for your dogs and property I would recommend the PetSafe Stubborn, with one extra Stubborn collar, and one PetSafe Little Dog collar. For 2.5 acres, add an extra 1,500 feet of boundary wire to your order.

  44. Laurence Frank says:

    Can these collars be worn permanently or do they cause skin problems? Many thanks, Laurence

    ADMIN – Hi Laurence, in scenario’s where you dog is kenneled or in the house at night, it is recommended to remove the collar. If your dog is outside 24/7, then we recommend that you remove the collar 3 times a week to inspect your dog’s neck to confirm it is healthy and clean. A small percentage of dogs do develop rashes when the collar is worn for an extended amount of time.

  45. Amanda says:

    We currently have wire buried for a PetSafe fence system. Can we buy the Dogtek EF-6000 system and use this same wire?

    Admin- Hi Amanda,

    Yes, the boundary wire you have in place will work. You will simply just hook up the existing boundary wire to the new transmitter.

  46. Brian says:

    I live out in the country on 4 acres. My dogs roam the woods of public land which is about 10,000 acres. I like my dogs being able to roam and have fun in the great outdoors and do not like keeping them confined. However, I do have a neighbor that likes to leave their trash just sitting outside and is complaining my dogs are getting in to their trash. I am trying to figure out how to let my dogs roam, but keep them out of my neighbors yard. I guess I could use the underground fence and keep them on my 4 acres. However, it is wooded land and trenching would be a problem. Could I just lay the wire down? I imagine it will cover itself up in time? I’m not sure what to do. Also, if I get this underground fence, how do I create a radius without having a active line from my power to the edge of the property? It seems like I would have a radius with a line through it where the dogs couldn’t cross. If that makes sense. Not sure how to explain it

    ADMIN – Hi Brian, you can definitely lay the wire on the ground. We recommend pinning it down with sod staples and raking ground cover over or let it cover naturally. To power the fence properly to the control unit on the wall, we use twisted wire as a jumper connecting the loop to the transmitter. The twisted wire does not transmit the signal along itself thus preventing your dogs from receiving a correction.

  47. Joel says:

    I have installed a stubborn dog underground fence. It has been in for about 6 months. Now my warning beepers on the house unit are going on and off occasionally but it is not constant. Any ideas?

    ADMIN – Hi Joel, there are many things that could be causing this issue. The first thing you want to do is run a 15 foot short loop test. Disconnect your fence wire and plug in a 15 foot section. See if it is solved and operating normally during the short loop test. If so, then proceed to check splices and visually walk the boundary looking for disturbed areas that might indicate damaged wire. If all checks out, you may just very well have a wall transmitter that has been hit by lightning. Sometimes, the transmitter will get hit and weaken it’s operation, but not fully knock it out.

  48. bruce mclane says:

    Planning on DIY fence, but only 3 sided. About 500 ft. Not sure what is meant by the loop process. Could you verify please . Thanks.

    ADMIN – Hi Bruce, the wire must go out and come back to the wall transmitter in a closed loop. So, in order to create a 3 sided boundary, you’ll need to run the wire out from the transmitter along the 3 sides then make a u-turn and go back to the transmitter a minimum of 4 feet away from the first wire. You can see this layout illustrated by clicking on “Dog Fence Installation”-> “Planning the Installation” -> “Backyard”. As for the lightning protector, this products provides electrical surge protection from two sources 1) the power outlet and 2) from lightning strikes directly on the boundary wire.

  49. petra says:

    I’ve purchased a electronic pet fencing system for my German shepherd, and it won’t work above 6 inch. Can you give me an advice what to do?

    ADMIN – Hi Petra, there could be a number of issues, but first check all your splices. Simply test the wires together and do a test without the wire nuts on the splice. It’s most likely a poor connection issue.

  50. Tom says:

    I have had a fence in the ground for 10 years and the wire failed. I can not locate the break with my radio. My yard is small and I am thinking of just putting a new wire down. Will the old wire interfere with the new wire? I would rather not pull the old wire out if I do not have to. Thank you Tom

    ADMIN – Hi Tom, as long as the old wire is not connected, it will not interfere with the new wire. No need for removing the old wire.

  51. peter De Keles says:

    I only need to have a 50 foot barrier to keep 75# dog out of garden. Which system is best for such a small area?

    ADMIN – Hi Peter, all of our reliable systems handle a 50 foot barrier. You’ll essentially utilize our single-sided boundary layout to accomplish this. You can see our single-sided layout illustrated by clicking on “Planning/Layouts” under the “Dog Fence Installation” menu. Keep in mind that you can only run twisted wire up to half the distance of the amount of wire on your loop. For your layout, you will have a 100 foot loop. You can run up to 50 feet of twisted wire. For a 75 lb dog, I’d recommend the PetSafe Ultrasmart fence PIG00-13619.

  52. Susan says:

    Thanks for all or your information. Is aluminum siding on a house a problem for an underground wired fence? I plan to fence from the sides of the house to an existing chain length fence; the fence will need to be active up to the aluminum sided edges of my house.
    Thanks, Susan

    Admin-Hi Susan,
    Aluminum siding will not pose a problem for a wired in-ground system.

  53. William Solomon says:

    Two questions, please recommend the system I should use for 2 dogs that weight about 50 to 60 lbs each. We are going to cover about 4 acres. In reading the other comments, they talk about using PVC conduit. Before I had my driveway paved last year I buried a PVC conduit, it is between 1 and 2 feet deep. Plus, you mentioned using a larger wire in this area. What size if wire comes with the kit and what size do you recommend? Also, what size wire should I use in the driveway area?



    Admin- Hi Bill,

    1) Our top choices for your two dogs at 50-60 pounds will be either the PetSafe PIG0013619 or IUC5100 system. Both systems offer a slim line rechargeable collar. The main difference between the two is the IUC5100 system comes with a hand held training remote.
    2) You will be able to install the boundary wire inside of the PVC pipe under the driveway. You can set the signal strength projecting off of the wire on the transmitter. Once the wire is installed, you simply turn the signal strength up to project through the driveway.
    3) The system comes with 500 feet of 20-gauge boundary wire. To cover 4 acres you will need a total of 2,000 feet.
    4) We do offer upgrades to the thicker wire. The main difference between the wire is the protective coating and the copper core. You can use the 20 gauges, which will work fine; however, wire breaks are more common with 20 gauges. Any install over 1,000 feet, we recommend at least upgrading to 18 gauge and install’s over 2,000 feet we recommend upgrading to the professional grade of wire 16-14 gauge.

  54. Dawn says:

    There’s a lot of great information here! I have a PetSafe underground system that works great for my Jack Russell but I have found my Pit Mix runs through it. So I bought him a Stubborn Dog collar, but he still runs through the fence. So now I want to try a wireless system. Question#1. Can I use it along with an underground system and #2 will it keep the Pit Mix from running through the fence? #3 If not, what will? Thanks!

    Admin- Hi Dawn,

    1) You can us a wireless system along with a wire system. However, the wireless systems are far less reliable and effective. The wireless system will not be a better option for containment with your Pit Mix than the PetSafe Stubborn dog collar.
    2) The key to containment is good training. The corrections will refocus a dogs attention to the fence and remind them to retreat back into the yard but the dog must first understand what the warning tones and corrections represent. I recommend looking over our dog fence training and start the training process again.

  55. Pat Rippey says:

    I have a gate adjacent to the front corner of the house that I would like to keep a “dead” zone to be able to walk my dogs. I have read about the twisting and looping and see the twisting as the best solution (the looping and needing 6′ between the wires does not appeal at all). Understanding that the loop has to be closed back to the base unit, will a triple twist (where I twist two wires connected to the base out to the far side of the gate, run my wire around the yard and across the front of the house, twist around the already twisted two wires and connect to the one open end) still leave a dead zone?

    Admin- Hi Pat,
    Afraid the triple wiring will result in an active section of fence. When the wires are bundled together the signal will only be reduced and will not create a full cancelation. You can install a double loop or horse shoes layout with twisted wire buried at the gate area which would allow your dog to cross.Please see the gate diagram under the install tab.

  56. David says:

    Hello, I just installed the PetSafe UltraSmart 13619 system and the fence is working but it is also sending the signal to my hot water baseboard (copper pipes). The pipes are about 3 feet from the transmitter the wire going out of the house is twisted together but the collars still activate near it both the pipes and the transmitter. Do you have any suggestions to fix the signal jumping?
    Thanks Dave

    Admin- Hi David,

    It sounds like the signal is jumping from the transmitter to the pipe. We recommend keeping at least 5-6 feet between any electrical appliances and circuit breakers. To identify where the signal is coming from, move the transmitter several feet from the room or pipes. Once the transmitter is moved, test the collar around the pipes. If the signal is nonexistent than you can remount the transmitter accordingly.

  57. Princess says:

    We just purchased an invisible fence. I am hesitant to install it because I want to do it correctly. So here’s my question, is the twisted wire something we twist ourselves? And do we double back everywhere we lay the wire? Will we be able to just outline our yard, bury the wire and connect?

    Admin- Hi Princess,

    1) The twisted wire is the same wire as the boundary wire and you can twist it yourself.
    2) For your install, you will simply outline your property with the boundary wire and run the twisted wire from the house to the property line to complete the loop. Please see our diagrams under the Dog Fence Installation tab.

  58. Pam says:

    We have about 4 acres in eastern Idaho. Our neighbor uses a portion of our land to pasture his horses. He has an electric fence on poles. I am unsure of what the system is but it seems to work with the horses. I am wondering if we can attach your systems’ wire to the existing poles so we do not have to dig in the back area.

    ADMIN – Hi Pam, Yes, you can attach the boundary wire to the existing poles and not receive interference. That is a great idea.

  59. Jennifer says:

    I just purchased the Innotek 4100. After laying out the wire, I realized I need more than the 500 feet that comes with my kit. Should I purchase 1000 feet of wire on one spool? If no, how do I connect more wire to the original 500 to complete my loop??

    Admin- Hi Jennifer,

    Most the of the boundary wire you will find comes in 500′ sections. You can simply splice the boundary wire together to connect the new spools. There is no limit to the amount of splices that you can use.

  60. Mark and Tina Kramer says:

    Our yard is partially fenced. Would be have to bury the entire wire or could we attach it to the fence somehow? Thanks!

    Admin- Hi Mark,

    Absolutely, you can simply attach the boundary wire to the fence for a speedy install. Our boundary wire is UV protected and will not be effect with direct sun light.

  61. Jay says:

    Hi. Is a standard power strip, surge protector sufficient to protect my system from lightning damage? Or is there another better option?


    Admin- Hi Jay,

    The lightning protection Modules work similar to a surge protector. The Lightning Protection module that we offer will help protect your transmitter from receiving electrical surges in your houses power outlet and electrical surges in the boundary wire. The standard power strips will only protect from surges in the house outlets, not boundary wire.

  62. John K. says:

    I need to buy flags for my dog fence, but that’s all i need, so i went to the hardware store and they had wire flags that you can put in the ground, but all they had was orange pink and yellow… will any of these work( get the dogs attention), or do i need white flags?

    Admin- Hi John,

    In our experience we have not notice a significant difference in the color of flags that are used; therefore, any color will be adequate. The flags are simply to help your dog gain an understanding of the invisible boundary.

  63. Greg Giesing says:

    Do you offer fencing layout sketches when I purchase the system from you? I have 6 acres with the house in the middle and a metal shed up against one side of the fence and one driveway to cross.

    Admin- Hi Greg,

    Once you place an order, you will receive our exhaustive Experts Guide to Installation and Training with pictures and diagrams to walk you through the install. Plus, if you wanted to draw your property layout and email it to us. We would be happy to configure the best arrangement options for your property.

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