Electric Dog Fence Installation

1 STEP: Planning the Installation

Marking Utilities and Obstacles

Simply call 811 and the utility companies will mark their underground utility lines with either flags or spray paint. It can take up to a week so you will want to call now. If you have privately installed any utilities like a septic system or lines for gas cylinders you will want to mark these as well. Most utilities are deeply buried (over a foot deep) and you will only be burying the cables a few inches deep so usually underground utilities are not an issue, but it is better to be safe than sorry and dig carefully in areas where utilities are located.

If possible mark the location of any sprinkler system lines or low voltage power lines for any outdoor lighting system you have had installed. If you can’t determine the location of these lines, make your best guess. Damaging a sprinkler line or a low voltage power line is not a big deal, both are easy to fix. Just be sure to shut off the water and power before you start digging.

Diagram Your Yard

On grid paper, sketch a rough map of your property showing any buildings, paths, driveways, garden beds, underground utilities and other obstacles. Figure out which parts of the garden you want to give your dog access to and which parts you want to block access to.

Decide where you will locate the transmitter box. The transmitter should be located near a power outlet and protected from the elements. Inside a garage or electrified shed is ideal.

Now determine where you will run your fence. The fence needs to make a complete loop starting and ending at the transmitter box. You will use a pair of wires twisted together in places where you want the dog to be able to cross the wire safely. For more details on twisted wire, see here.

Design Principles

Some things to keep in mind when deciding on the placement of wires:

Cross utility lines at right angles
You want to avoid running wire close to a utility line for an extended stretch because, in some rare instances a boundary wire running close to a utility wire can induce a signal in the utility wire making part of your home wiring trigger the collar receivers.

Round corners
Boundary wires should turn corners gradually, avoiding sharp 90 degree turns.

Separate parallel boundary wires
Boundary wires emit signals that will cancel each other out, so you want any boundary wires that are parallel to each other to be at least six feet apart. Similarly, if your neighbors have a dog fence, keep your wires about six to ten feet from theirs.

Sample Layouts

Perimeter Dog Fence Layout

The most popular layout runs along your yard’s perimeter. This layout allows your dog access to the entire property.

The twisted wire joins the house transmitter box to the boundary wire. This enables the dog to safely walk over the twisted wire path. Where possible lay the boundary wire two yards back from the road to give a good safety buffer for your dog and to allow a space or pedestrians. Also try to allow three yards between the boundary wire and the house on at least one side to allow the dog room to pass between the front and backyard.

Backyard Dog Fence Layout

1

The challenge in doing a backyard only installation is that you want the house side of boundary to be inactive so your dog can freely enter and exit your home without getting the correction. However, for the system to work, you still need a full loop of single (untwisted wire). There are a number of approaches you can take:

The easiest way to make a complete loop, while only giving the dog access to the backyard is to make a loop that goes tight around the front of the house too. This completes the loop, but there is not enough space around the front of the house for the dog to have access to the front yard. When you do this type of layout, it is important to do a quick check with the collar inside the house to make sure that the signal is not inadvertently spilling into the house in rooms where your dog will stay. If there is a problem, just decrease the boundary width, or move the wire a little further from the front of your house.

2

Another popular method is go high over the back of your house. Run the wire up a downspout on one side of the house, across the gutter, and down the downspout on the other side of the house. This vertical height over the ground gives your dog enough space to get in and out of the back door without triggering the correction. As always, you want to test with the collar at the back door to make sure there is no signal accidentally reaching down where the dog will walk. Also test rooms near the gutter line to make sure there is no signal spilling into those rooms. If there is unwanted spill, turn down the boundary width setting on the control box until you are getting no spill. This method does not work with the PetSafe Yard Max system in YardMax mode.

3

The final method is to go around the three sides of the yard, then double back on yourself to make a U-shaped loop. The two opposite wires need to be separated by at least six feet to avoid the signals from one loop from interfering with the other. If they are too close you will not get a nice strong signal along the boundary, and you may have dead spots where there is no correction at all. If you already have a tall fence in place, on way to achieve this without digging is to run one leg of the wire along the top of the fence, and the return leg along the bottom of the fence, so you get the necessary separation. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.

Gate on the Boundary

The Boundary Gate allows you to create a “gate along the boundary where there is no correction. This ¡s useful where you have a physical gate that you want to use in this section instead of the electronic fence. For this layout to work, you will need to use the double back layout and keep the parallel wires separated by at least six feet. Where you get to the
non-correction gate area, you will bring the two wires together and twist them. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.

Since this requires a lot of extra wiring, many people find it easier to use a non-layout solution. Instead when they create a virtual gate, training the dog that when they take off their collar and give them permission, they can walk through the gate without fear of correction. This is covered in more detail in the Dog Fence Training section of the website where we look at walking your dog through the boundary.

Exclusion Zones

You can also add small exclusion zones to keep your dog out of small areas within your property. For example you may want your dog to have full access to your yard except a small garden bed. To do this you loop some boundary wire around the area you want to protect and join the loop to the main loop with some twisted wire. This does not work with the PetSafe YardMax in YardMax mode.

The Hourglass Layout

The hourglass layout contains the dog in both the front and backyard, but does not allow the dog to cross between the front and backyard. This is great if you want the dog with you in the front or backyard but do not want them crossing between them.
Note that the two loops are connected to each other on the left-hand side of this diagram and that they both connect to the transmitter box on the right-hand side. One note, where the wires are close to each other as it creates the center of the “hourglass”, you will still want to make sure that they are at least 10 feet apart so as not to have signal interference with its own signal.

Single-sided Boundary Layout

With a bit of inventiveness, you can create a single sided boundary. The only stipulation is that the twisted wire section can only be half the length of the looped boundary wire. For example, if your loop is 100 feet in a circle, you can only run 50 feet of twisted wire back. This install is very popular with people who live in a rural setting and they want to protect their dog from running out onto the freeway. You simply run a long length of twisted wire from the wall transmitter out to the road. Create a long, skinny loop of boundary wire, remembering to keep the parallel sections a minimum of 6 feet separated to avoid the wires interfering with each other. The key for success of this installation method is run your loop far enough along the road so that your dog doesn’t run around it. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.

LakeFront Layout

On a lakefront property, if you’d like to incorporate the lake into your fence you have several options. Do note that there is no danger for your dog to receive a correction when swimming. The correction level will not change or pose any sort of safety threat. When incorporating the lake, it’s useful to know if your lakefront gradually gets deeper or simply drops off. Depending on what you’re trying to accomplish will determine how you go about incorporating the lake. It’s recommended when sinking wire into a lake to run it into a water hose or irrigation hose and sink it to the bottom. This will protect the wire from critters and fishing hooks.

1

Simply submerge extra boundary wire out into the lake at your desired distance. Do you want your dog to just be able to walk into the lake a few feet so she can get a drink or lay down in the water to cool off? Or do you want to sink the wire over 10 feet so that she can go for a deeper swim or freely jump into the boat when the family goes out? Your goal will determine how much wire you plan to sink.

2

If you have enough yard space, you can use a double back approach to create a three-sided boundary. Simply set an extra length into the lake when doubling back so that your dog will not be able to easily run around the fence.

3

A modification of the first where you incorporate the dock and boathouse, but the lake is otherwise not incorporated into the fence plan.

Sample Layouts

The most popular layout runs along your yard’s perimeter. This layout allows your dog access to the entire property.

The twisted wire joins the house transmitter box to the boundary wire. This enables the dog to safely walk over the twisted wire path. Where possible lay the boundary wire two yards back from the road to give a good safety buffer for your dog and to allow a space or pedestrians. Also try to allow three yards between the boundary wire and the house on at least one side to allow the dog room to pass between the front and backyard.

1

The challenge in doing a backyard only installation is that you want the house side of boundary to be inactive so your dog can freely enter and exit your home without getting the correction. However, for the system to work, you still need a full loop of single (untwisted wire). There are a number of approaches you can take:

The easiest way to make a complete loop, while only giving the dog access to the backyard is to make a loop that goes tight around the front of the house too. This completes the loop, but there is not enough space around the front of the house for the dog to have access to the front yard. When you do this type of layout, it is important to do a quick check with the collar inside the house to make sure that the signal is not inadvertently spilling into the house in rooms where your dog will stay. If there is a problem, just decrease the boundary width, or move the wire a little further from the front of your house.

2

Another popular method is go high over the back of your house. Run the wire up a downspout on one side of the house, across the gutter, and down the downspout on the other side of the house. This vertical height over the ground gives your dog enough space to get in and out of the back door without triggering the correction. As always, you want to test with the collar at the back door to make sure there is no signal accidentally reaching down where the dog will walk. Also test rooms near the gutter line to make sure there is no signal spilling into those rooms. If there is unwanted spill, turn down the boundary width setting on the control box until you are getting no spill. This method does not work with the PetSafe Yard Max system in YardMax mode.

3

The final method is to go around the three sides of the yard, then double back on yourself to make a U-shaped loop. The two opposite wires need to be separated by at least six feet to avoid the signals from one loop from interfering with the other. If they are too close you will not get a nice strong signal along the boundary, and you may have dead spots where there is no correction at all. If you already have a tall fence in place, on way to achieve this without digging is to run one leg of the wire along the top of the fence, and the return leg along the bottom of the fence, so you get the necessary separation. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.

The Boundary Gate allows you to create a “gate along the boundary where there is no correction. This ¡s useful where you have a physical gate that you want to use in this section instead of the electronic fence. For this layout to work, you will need to use the double back layout and keep the parallel wires separated by at least six feet. Where you get to the
non-correction gate area, you will bring the two wires together and twist them. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.

Since this requires a lot of extra wiring, many people find it easier to use a non-layout solution. Instead when they create a virtual gate, training the dog that when they take off their collar and give them permission, they can walk through the gate without fear of correction. This is covered in more detail in the Dog Fence Training section of the website where we look at walking your dog through the boundary.

You can also add small exclusion zones to keep your dog out of small areas within your property. For example you may want your dog to have full access to your yard except a small garden bed. To do this you loop some boundary wire around the area you want to protect and join the loop to the main loop with some twisted wire. This does not work with the PetSafe YardMax in YardMax mode.

The hourglass layout contains the dog in both the front and backyard, but does not allow the dog to cross between the front and backyard. This is great if you want the dog with you in the front or backyard but do not want them crossing between them.
Note that the two loops are connected to each other on the left-hand side of this diagram and that they both connect to the transmitter box on the right-hand side. One note, where the wires are close to each other as it creates the center of the “hourglass”, you will still want to make sure that they are at least 10 feet apart so as not to have signal interference with its own signal.

With a bit of inventiveness, you can create a single sided boundary. The only stipulation is that the twisted wire section can only be half the length of the looped boundary wire. For example, if your loop is 100 feet in a circle, you can only run 50 feet of twisted wire back. This install is very popular with people who live in a rural setting and they want to protect their dog from running out onto the freeway. You simply run a long length of twisted wire from the wall transmitter out to the road. Create a long, skinny loop of boundary wire, remembering to keep the parallel sections a minimum of 6 feet separated to avoid the wires interfering with each other. The key for success of this installation method is run your loop far enough along the road so that your dog doesn’t run around it. This layout will not work with the PetSafe YardMax system in YardMax mode.

On a lakefront property, if you’d like to incorporate the lake into your fence you have several options. Do note that there is no danger for your dog to receive a correction when swimming. The correction level will not change or pose any sort of safety threat. When incorporating the lake, it’s useful to know if your lakefront gradually gets deeper or simply drops off. Depending on what you’re trying to accomplish will determine how you go about incorporating the lake. It’s recommended when sinking wire into a lake to run it into a water hose or irrigation hose and sink it to the bottom. This will protect the wire from critters and fishing hooks.

1

Simply submerge extra boundary wire out into the lake at your desired distance. Do you want your dog to just be able to walk into the lake a few feet so she can get a drink or lay down in the water to cool off? Or do you want to sink the wire over 10 feet so that she can go for a deeper swim or freely jump into the boat when the family goes out? Your goal will determine how much wire you plan to sink.

2

If you have enough yard space, you can use a double back approach to create a three-sided boundary. Simply set an extra length into the lake when doubling back so that your dog will not be able to easily run around the fence.

3

If you have enough yard space, you can use a double back approach to create a three-sided boundary. Simply set an extra length into the lake when doubling back so that your dog will not be able to easily run around the fence.

318 Comments

  1. Don says:

    In rural New England stonewalls are common along property lines. Would it be possible to just weave the wire among the rocks of the wall rather than burying it in the earth, or would the rocks create too much of a barrier for the signal?

    ADMIN – Hi Don. This should be ok for the signal. However, you will want to test the perimeter before securing the wire to make sure that it is beeping and correcting in the proper locations. If the wire is too deep or too far from the dogs collar, you will not receive a steady signal along the wire at that point. You would then need to move the wire closer to the containment area.

  2. Austen Davis says:

    We have a vinyl fence with two gates that are hard to shut. If the gates are left open at all our dogs push them open and run onto what is a rather busy street, or go for a stroll through our neighborhood. We are looking for a system that will prevent them from crossing through the gates if they were to be left ajar. They don’t dig or have any other escape routes so we don’t need to do a full underground fence system as we already have the vinyl fence. If you could let me know what system would work with keeping them from crossing through the gates that would be wonderful. Thanks! Austen

    ADMIN – HI Austen. One option for you to look at would be the Pawz Away Rock Outdoor Zone (RFA-378). This can be used as an exclusion zone with up to 150 feet of boundary wire. You would run the wire across the opening and then back to the rock creating a loop across your driveway. You will need to keep the two wires at least 6 feet apart to mitigate any interference between the wires and the signal running through them. You can see a version of this single sided boundary by visiting our Dog Fence Planning and Layouts page. You will want to scroll down the page until you see the Single Sided Boundary diagram.

  3. Anne says:

    I have two dogs – one goes under chain link fences, the other is a jumper. (Lucky me!) I don’t think an invisible fence is even possible because of house materials. Back yard has a galvanized steel chain link fence that does a square around the perimeter- 3 property lines of lot then attaching to both sides of the house. I also have a detached garage in the back yard. The house and garage have steel siding and steel roofing. A magnet will stick to roof, siding, fence post, and fence fabric. My entire lot size is 9,000 square feet. Oh, and my electric line runs diagonally across the back yard and cable runs along one edge of property line under existing fence.

    Am I doomed? I can find info for steel fencing. Looks like steel house materials is a whole ‘nother animal. Can you point me to any solutions or options for invisible fencing?
    Thanks

    ADMIN – HI Anne. You do have a difficult situation for your layout. Depending on what your placement options are you may be able to still use a wired system. We recommend installing the transmitter inside a waterproof area that does not drop below freezing connected to an electrical outlet. The transmitter should be at least 5 feet away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal fencing, circuit breaker box, HVAC equipment, washer/dryer, refrigerator, etc) to avoid amplification problems, unintended corrections to the dog’s collar or signal interference.
    The Boundary Wire should be installed 5-10 feet away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal or wire fencing, HVAC equipment, other electric fencing, underground utilities, etc) to avoid amplification problems, unintended corrections to the dog’s collar or signal interference.
    We recommend laying the wire where you think you want it on top of the ground and testing the collar to make sure it beeps and corrects at the right location on the perimeter loop. Once the correct location has been determined, then you can bury your wire no more than 1″ – 3″ in the ground or you can tack it to the ground using lawn staples.
    Unfortunately, keeping these distances is needed when metal is involved.

  4. Forrest says:

    the picture of the exclusion zone with twisted wire running to the pond, does not show 2 wires running around the perimeter. Are 2 wires not needed all the way around?

    ADMIN – Hi Forrest. The twisted wire is just a connecting wire to connect the exclusion loop to the primary loop. The exclusion loop is only one wire around the area you want excluded.

  5. Daniel Jones says:

    Im going to put a fence under ground for my dog who has medical issues.
    Will the electric chain link fence my neighbor put up effect the in ground fence?

    ADMIN – Hi Daniel. Yes, your neighbors electric fence can absolutely interfere with your dog fence. The Boundary Wire should be installed 5-10 feet away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal or wire fencing, HVAC equipment, other electric fencing, underground utilities, etc) to avoid amplification problems, unintended corrections to the dog’s collar or signal interference.

    We recommend laying the wire where you think you want it on top of the ground and testing the collar to make sure it beeps and corrects at the right location on the perimeter loop. Once the correct location has been determined, then you can bury your wire no more than 1″ – 3″ in the ground or you can tack it to the ground using lawn staples.

  6. Elizabeth says:

    Hello!
    I am trying to figure out if we can install an electric fencing system for our boxer. We live on a steep hill so the back yard isn’t used, just the front yard. The issue is that our front door has a sidewalk and a driveway attached to the yard, so I’m not sure how we could install the wire for the one wall.

    ADMIN – HI Elizabeth. I would recommend taking a look at our Dog Fence Layouts page to see ideas and diagrams of sample layouts. This may help show you some options. Also, our Driveways and Paths page will show you how you can cross over these places while still keeping a solid boundary.

  7. Courtney says:

    I’d like to run the invisible fence around the perimeter of my yard (front, back, and sides), but there’s not a ton of area between my house and edge of the yard on the sides. How close can the dogs get to the wire before signaling to them?

    ADMIN – Hi Courtney. If you decide to go with a traditional style fence, you can adjust the boundary width so that your dogs would have enough room to get between the wire and the house.

  8. Debbie says:

    I’ve used a 14 gauge, solid core wire along the perimeter and same wire twisted back to the lightning arrestor (plugged into the wall outlet). The wire is so stiff, it is difficult to get it plugged into the controller. Is there any problem using a thinner gauge wire from the lightning arrestor to the controller? (Petsafe Stubborn Dog system)

    ADMIN – Hi Debbie. You can change the gauge of the twisted wire if you need to but we recommend only decreasing the size by one gauge. So, if your boundary loop is 14 gauge, you could use 16 gauge wire for the twisted wire.

  9. Anthony says:

    2 questions. My neighbor has a WatchDog Invisible fence that sits on the border of our property. How far away does our Petsafe Yardmax need to be from his? Can we lay it near his but make sure frequency is different?

    Second question. Can I go out one side of garage loop around the house and back in the other side of the garage, once in the garage I want to route the wire up over the garage door to connect into there other side. Would we get any interference with garage door metal rails?

    ADMIN – Hi Anthony. You will want to keep your dog fence wire at least 10 feet from your neighbors dog fence wire to avoid interference. You may experience some amplification of signal running the wire near the metal of the garage door or interference of signal if the wire is too close to the mechanics of the garage door. The best thing to do is to test it, once in place, to see how much amplification or interference you may receive. Remember, with the wire being higher up, you will also want to make sure they dogs collar is responding the way you need it to in that area.

  10. Betty says:

    I have an invisible fence that runs around our front and part of the back yard. We’re getting a 6′ fence installed in the back in an attempt to keep out the deer. Is there a way I can neutralize the section that runs along the back in order to open up more space for my dog now that there will be a regular fence there to contain him?

    ADMIN – Hi Betty. The only way to change the boundary would be to move the wire out farther to create a larger containment area. The systems work on a loop so you must have a loop in order to complete the circuit.

  11. Jodi says:

    We have Petsafe underground containment system that works well since we upgraded to the stubborn dog collar for our rambunctious labradoodle. We are now having trouble with him getting up on the kitchen counter to pull food & things off there. Is there a way to use the same collar & run wire inside our home to exclude him from our kitchen area?

    ADMIN – HI Jodi. There is an Indoor Zone pod that can be used to create an exclusion zone in your kitchen that should work with your existing system. It operates wirelessly and sends out the signal in circle that is adjustable in diameter from 2 to 10 feet.

  12. Chris Baranyar says:

    We have a 5 month old Portuguese water dog and I am going to be purchasing a Petsafe Yardmax system. I will be crossing a drive way with the wire and was wondering if my dog would be receiving a correction upon backing the car over the embedded wire within the drive way?

    ADMIN – Hi Chris. If you need to remove the dog from the containment area, you will want to remove the collar before allowing the dog to walk across the wire or before driving him over the wire.

  13. Wendy says:

    I have a PetSafe In-ground fence that we just installed a couple weeks ago. However, we have a dead spot at the driveway (also near the corner of the property) and the signal is weak along most of the front yard next to the driveway. I believe there is also cable in that same area….parallel to the front line of the property and maybe 1-2 feet from where we buried the wire. Could the utility cable be interfering with the fence signal, or should I look for a break somewhere in that area? The back yard, where there’s no utility cable that I’m aware of, works great!

    ADMIN – Hi Wendy. Yes, you are correct. Utility lines that carry a signal, such as power lines, cable lines, DSL lines, etc., will interfere with your dog fence signal if the lines are too close to your dog fence wire. The recommended distance apart is 6 to 10 feet. If you need to cross existing lines, you will want to cross them at a 90 degree angle.

  14. Karl says:

    Halo ! I`m relly cofused , i hope you can help me out , i have a complicated setting around my house and know where i would like my dogs to fully roam , but i have no idea as to the wire layout , do you think that if i were to send you a diagram of the layout of my property and where i would like the dogs to be free to roam , that you could give me some sugestions ?
    thanks !!!

    ADMIN – Hi Karl. I would recommend visiting our Dog Fence Planning/Layouts page to see various ideas on how to layout your fence for different yard configurations.

  15. Maria Nelson says:

    We have 2 cabins with a trail between them. I want to have a loop around each cabin, but not let the dogs cross between them or onto the trail. Can i install the transmitter on one cabin, take a loop around that one, and connect a loop around the other to it with twisted wire? If I use the system rated for 10 acres, how large can each area be and still be reliable? Also, is there a limit to how far apart the 2 loops can be? I also have a barn (without electricity) farther out which I would like to make a separate loop around. I read on your site that there is no limit to the number of loops, and that they don’t have to be enclosed within each other, as shown in the exclusion zone layout. My conclusion is that I could run multiple loops off of each other as I move away from the transmitter, but is that right?

    ADMIN – Hi Maria. Correct. You could run multiple loops off of a single transmitter. With that being said, each loop will need to be at least 5-10 feet apart to ensure that they do not interfere with one another. It is also important to note that the portions of twisted wire should not make up more than half of your boundary wire.

  16. Betsey Murphy says:

    Hi, thanks for the great information. I am considering the option that allows my dog to go into the water a bit, as we live on a lake and our pups love to swim. What is the best way to submerge and secure the line in the water and how deep could I go?

    Thanks

    ADMIN – Hi Betsey. My question to you would be do you want the dogs to be able to swim past the boundary or do you want to keep them from swimming too far out?
    If you want them to be contained then you would not be able to place the line in more than a foot of water depth or so. This would still allow your dogs to splash in the shallow area but would keep them contained.
    If you are not worried about them swimming off across the lake, then you will want to run the line in about 5 to 6 feet of water depth or more. Also, you will want to make sure your boundary width is smaller than the depth at which you sink your line.
    One thing you may want to consider when running wire under water is to run that section through an old garden hose with the metal ends cut off, or a length of plastic flexible tubing, to give an extra layer of protection to your wire. If the water is warm enough for someone to swim in, you can secure the line to the bottom of the lake using lawn staples, or something similar, to hold the line in place.
    You can find examples of waterfront layouts here.

  17. Ed says:

    Does the installation of the wire pose any risk to future owners who might be digging without knowing exactly where the wire is buried?

    ADMIN – It shouldn’t affect the future owners unless they want to use the system. If they want to use the dog fence system, you may want to mark the location of the wires so they know where not to dig. If they dig and hit the line, it will not be of any danger.

  18. Jeff says:

    Can the islands be created with different gauges of wire? I would like to create the outer boundary with 14 and the inner islands with the standard wire.

    ADMIN – Hi Jeff. We recommend keeping the wire gauges the same for any wire connected to your primary loop.

  19. Don says:

    We are interested in letting our dog use the backyard only by running the wire up the corner of the house, under the roof sofit, and down the opposite corner of the roof as you describe. However we have a metal roof house. In order to eliminate the possibility of signal magnification and leakage into the house, can we run twisted-pair up and around the house?
    Or would it be better to run twisted pair along the back wall of the house near the foundation?

    ADMIN – HI Don. I would recommend running your wire along the foundation of your home instead of running it near the metal roof. The twisted wire still carries a signal and, while it wouldn’t set off the receiver on the collar in a normal situation, it still might run into amplification of signal when that close to the metal roof. You can see examples of the backyard only layouts on our dog fence planning/layouts page.

  20. Jacob says:

    My goal is to only have a boundary in the front and back of my yard. Can a single boundary be made in the front like the diagram shows but then create a eclusion zone off of that and run that to the rear of the yard? Would that work or is there any other option? Another question, two achieve only correction on the front and back yard…. Could I use the gate feature and double back? Start in the back with doubled layout wire then use the twisted gate option along the one side then doubled layout in the front in a C shape patter to achieve my goal?

    ADMIN – Hi Jacob. There are a couple of options to look at that would help you achieve the containment you are needing. Please visit the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page. Which of these sample dog fence layouts is similar to your dog fence design?

  21. Kristi says:

    We have a metal siding house with a front and back yard we would like fenced in. Will the metal siding interfere with the system? If we did a perimeter layout like the first option above, would that work~Since you would just have twisted wire against the house? The transmitter would be in our attached garage, which is also metal siding. There is also a metal siding shed that would be included within the boundary.
    Thanks

    ADMIN – Hi Kristi. When planning your dog fence layout, we recommend installing the transmitter inside a waterproof area that does not drop below freezing connected to an electrical outlet. The transmitter should be 3 to 5 away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal fencing, circuit breaker box, HVAC equipment, washer/dryer, refrigerator, etc) to avoid amplification problems and unintended corrections to the dog’s collar.
    The Boundary Wire should be installed 5-10 feet away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal or wire fencing, HVAC equipment, etc) to avoid amplification problems and unintended corrections to the dog’s collar.
    We recommend laying the wire on top of the ground and testing the collar to make sure it beeps and corrects at the right location on the perimeter loop and that you are not receiving an amplified signal which would correct the dog when they are doing the right thing. Once the correct location has been determined, then bury your wire 1″ – 3″ in the ground or you can tack it to the ground using lawn staples.
    Call your utility companies (e.g., phone, cable, DSL, gas, power/electric, etc) and have them come out and mark all of your underground utilities so you can work around them if needs be.

  22. Jeff says:

    I have a wrought iron fence and would like to weave it along the bottom of the fence instead of putting it under ground, We have small dogs that can slip through the wrough iron fence. Will that work?

    ADMIN – Hi Jeff. With most electric dog fences, the Boundary Wire should be installed 5-10 feet away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal fencing, HVAC equipment, etc) to avoid amplification problems and unintended corrections to the dog’s collar.
    We recommend laying the wire on top of the ground and testing the collar to make sure it beeps and corrects at the right location on the perimeter loop. Once the correct location has been determined, then bury your wire 1″ – 3″ in the ground. You can also leave the wire on the surface of the ground and tack it down using lawn staples.

  23. Nancy says:

    We are planning to contain our 2 lab/newfoundland mixes on our 7 acre property. I have a couple of questions:
    — Can rodents be a problem with chewing the wire underground? If so, can the wire be encased in something to protect it?
    — We plan on placing the transmitter in our barn. It has a metal roof. Will this interfere?
    Thanks!

    ADMIN – Hi Nancy.
    Rodents can be a problem, depending on the yard and the ground critters that live there. We recommend running your wire through an old garden hose (with the metal ends cut off) or other flexible tubing if you need more protection for your wire.

    The metal roof CAN be a problem but not always. It will depend on how high your roof is and how far from the transmitter the metal is located. I recommend testing the whole boundary and the area near the transmitter with the collar and the testing tool before putting the collar on your dog and beginning training. This way, if you need to adjust the location of the transmitter, you know before the dog receives and unintended correction. Please visit our Installation pages to see more information on how to mount your transmitter and much more.

  24. Justin Andrews says:

    Hello,
    We just finished our house on 24 acres. We would like to purchase a dog for protection and watch dog purposes. I have an exterior fence made of barbed wire but I do not wish to install any interior fences. I understand we cannot put a collar on a new puppy but for future purposes I would like to know what is the best underground fence for our property? Sportdog 100 looks good but does it perform? Also will we have to drill holes in our brand new house to get the wire outside?

    Hi Justin. What is the age, weight, breed, and temperament of your dog(s)? What is the size of the pet containment area? Answering these questions will help me match your dog(s) to the best electric dog fence system.

  25. Erika says:

    I’m confused about dead zones . In the video it stated that wire twisting cannot be part of the main loop, however when creating a dead zone for a gate in the boundary it looks
    Like that was what was done. So can you make a dead zone in the middle
    Of your loop by dimpling twisting together wires when you have to double back to create a loop?

    ADMIN – Hi Erika. It is true that twisted wire can not be part of the main loop in that you cannot splice a pair of twisted wires into a boundary loop. The wires all have to meet 1:1. Please visit the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page. Which of these sample dog fence layouts is similar to your dog fence design?

  26. Nancy says:

    We are putting in a wireless fence at our vacation home for our border collie. We have one at home and he is very smart and has learned where the “limits” are so we want to give him as much space as possible on our small 1/4 acre lot. Here’s the complex part we would like to only invisible fence 4th side since there is a physical fence on the 3rd side. Is there a way to do a twist to make the 4th “dead” this is also the side that comes into the controller?

    I know we could do a complete loop with that side “dead”, but we don’t have enough space along the side property line to double bury with 6 feet between them.

    ADMIN – Hi Nancy. As you said, the system must be looped in order to work. You can run the wire along the existing fence as long as it is not metal. That way you would have your complete loop. Please visit the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page. Which of these sample dog fence layouts is similar to your dog fence design?

  27. Audrey says:

    We have 60 lb lab mix that we want to contain in an open area between our two metal buildings. Maybe 1-2 acres. How far away from the buildings does the wire need to be buried in order to avoid any interference? Can the wire go around the metal building and still work? Also, tips on where to install the transmitter, outside the metal buildings? Thanks!

    ADMIN – Hi Audrey. Call your utility companies (e.g., phone, cable, DSL, gas, power/electric, etc) and have them come out and mark all of your underground utilities. We recommend installing the Transmitter inside connected to an electrical outlet. The transmitter should be away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal fencing, circuit breaker box, HVAC equipment, washer/dryer, refrigerator, etc) to avoid amplification problems and unintended corrections to the dog’s collar. The Boundary Wire should be installed 5-10 feet away from metal and/or electromagnetic interference (e.g., metal siding, aluminum siding, metal roof, metal fencing, HVAC equipment, etc) to avoid amplification problems and unintended corrections to the dog’s collar. We recommend laying the wire on top of the ground and testing the collar to make sure it beeps and corrects at the right location on the perimeter loop. Once the correct location has been determined, then bury your wire 1″ – 3″ in the ground.

  28. Jessica says:

    Hi,

    We have two dogs 4 yr old laso alpso (20 lbs) and a puppy who is a husky/lab mix (24lbs) but she’s growing daily.. Probably around 70 lbs when she’s an adult. We have a small pond maybe 2 ft deep in winter. Was thinking about the stubborn dog but our pup is a good listener and we need it to work in our pond. also would the stubborn dog setup electricute the small dog too much? Thanks!!!

    ADMIN – Hi Jessica. One of the great things about the PetSafe Stubborn Dog Fence (PIG00-10777) is that it allows for other collars to be used so that you can have the stubborn collar on your Husky/Lab mix and a deluxe collar on the Lhasa Apso.

    Please visit the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page.
    Which of these sample dog fence layouts is similar to your dog fence design?

  29. Vicki Holm says:

    I already have a petsafe pro tx1 unit installed but I had so many breaks I just took up all the wire to replace it. It was originally professionally installed but I want to just do it myself as I know what layout I want. I want to go with the simple backyard layout. It will be approx. 2 acres with a yard surrounded by woods. I will use lawn stakes in the woods and bury it where it goes across yard to the back deck door where he will be able to enter. I see by your diagram that I should run it tight against the house around the front and sides. My question is, I’m not sure what gauge wire they used. The twisted wire is still intact and connected. I’m assuming it is 18 gauge. Do I have to go with the same gauge wire as the twisted wire or can I upgrade to say 16 or 14 gauge wire and connect this to the twisted wire? My reasoning being that I would like a heavier, stronger gauge wire since it will be above ground in the woods and I have a 90 Lb Doberman who is very active and loves to run in the woods. So basically does twisted wire have to match the boundary wire?

    ADMIN – Hi Vicki. No. We do not recommend mixing wire gauges for the Boundary Wire and Twisted Wire. The electric dog fence will not work correctly. We recommend removing all of the existing Boundary Wire and Twisted Wire before installing a heavier gauge Boundary Wire. Otherwise, the electric dog fence will not work correctly.

  30. Pat says:

    5 acre triangle. 2 beagles, 1 coonhound, Don’t want to bury wire. What do I need?

    ADMIN – Hi Pat. You will need 2,000 feet of Boundary Wire to contain your dogs in a 5 acre perimeter loop. What is the age, weight and temperament of your 2 beagles and 1 Coonhound? Answering these questions will help me match your dog(s) to the best electric dog fence system. Please visit the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page. Which of these sample dog fence layouts is similar to your dog fence design?

  31. Thomas says:

    Two cockapoos(20 lbs ea) need an area off our deck. The area is limited to 15×30′. However, the main control to the condo irrigation system passes through this area. So there are several junction boxes of irrigation control lines, a power line to the irrigation control box and water lines going through the area. Is this area too complex for an invisible fence system?

    ADMIN – Hi Thomas. You will need 500 feet of Boundary Wire to contain your dogs in a 1/3 acre perimeter loop. Please visit the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page. Which of these sample dog fence layouts is similar to your dog fence design?

  32. Lou says:

    You state the wire should be 1 – 3″ below the ground. If I am putting in a new yard could I lay the wire on the ground and bury shallow say 1/2″ with top soil then grow grass over it or should I still bury the wire and then wait for grass to grow over? Thanks.
    Lou

    ADMIN – Hi Lou. Yes. You can lay the Boundary Wire on the ground and bury it a 1/2″ with top soil and then grow grass over it. Or, you can bury the Boundary Wire 1-3 inches in the ground. What is the size of the pet containment area?

  33. Charlene banet says:

    I am interested in the Yard Max fence. I have been reading your information. And have not seen this question. Will electric fence already up for horses interfere with dog fence. Boundaries will run close together for approximately 100 ft. Thank you

    ADMIN – Hi Charlene. What is the age, weight, breed and temperament of your dog(s)? What is the size of your pet containment area? Answering these questions will help me match your dog(s) to the best electric dog fence system. We recommend running the Boundary Wire 5-10 feet in front of the electric horse fence to avoid amplification problems and unintended corrections to the dog’s collar.

  34. Mel says:

    Hi, we would like to know what the maximum depth we can go with the wire is. We would rather go about foot underground, would this be okay?

    ADMIN – Hi Mel. No. We recommend installing the Boundary Wire 1-3 inches in the ground to safely contain your dog.

  35. john Gibson says:

    With one transmitter can I run twisted wire to a garden with single loop on the east side of yard and than run another twisted wire single loop to pool on the west side of yard? All wires coming out of the transmitter. It would be two separate loops coming out of the same transmitter.

    ADMIN – Hi John. No. We recommend running a single perimeter loop from the transmitter. What is the size of your pet containment area? Please visit the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page.

  36. Jennifer Kilgore says:

    Hello!

    So glad I found this site. I need some help! I have a 110lb Doberman and a 50lb Black and Tan Coonhound puppy. I will be buying the Stubborn Dog Fence and at least 1500ft of 14g wire. We will be building a physical dog pen to contain them while we are at work, and it will contain wire panel siding. How do we incorporate it with the above-ground fence? The rest of the layout I can figure out, but I don’t want him to be able to go BEHIND the dog pen since it will be on the corner of the property along the woods. Help!

    ADMIN – We do not recommend installing the boundary wire near wire panel siding due to amplification problems.

  37. Pete Westervelt says:

    I have two dogs 50 and 70 lbs and we live on an acre lot with 200 feet of lake front with a dock. I would like to run wire around the edges of our lot, then in the water and around the dock, but there are a lot of people that fish here. Using a garden hose I fear they will hook that. PVC would be a major undertaking. Any ideas on a hard covering that fish hooks would stick in that would work to lay the wire into the lake ? I have some black coiled pipe for water that might do the trick but not sure if the wire works inside of there. Any thoughts or suggestions
    Thanks
    Pete

    ADMIN – Hi Pete. What is the breed of your two dogs? Please visit the DogfenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page to look at some sample dog fence layouts. No. We do not recommend placing boundary wire in the water with nearby fishing due to the nicks that the wire will receive. No. We do not recommend running the boundary wire through any metal piping due to amplification problems.

  38. Nichole says:

    We are looking at doing an invisible fence, but utilities wires run along our lot line to a transformer box. Keeping the invisible fence 5-10′ away from them is not an option due to the size of our yard. Ideally, we’d like to run the wires within 2′ of the utilities. Is this manageable, or does it rule out the invisible fence option for us?

    ADMIN – Hi Nichole. What is the size of your pet containment area? Have you looked at the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page? Which of these layouts is similar to your dog fence design?

  39. Kelli says:

    Please help me understand! When I read ‘what kind of fencing’ I can mount to – barbed wire is included as an ok type of fence to mount to – in fact, it says ‘all’ types with the exception of sheet metal. But in the comments, I see you advising people NOT to mount on t-posts or near barbed wire. Of course, barbed wire is my situation, so I need help! thanks!

    ADMIN – Hi Kelli. Every electric dog fence installation is a little different due to the dog(s) and the layout of the property. We have found that mounting boundary wire on metal barbed wire and T-Posts causes amplification problems. The best way to install the boundary wire is 5-10 feet away from metal, metal roofing, metal siding, aluminum siding, metal barbed wire and metal T-Posts. The boundary wire can be installed 1-3 inches in the ground, or on top of the ground with Lawn Staples. What is the size of your pet containment area?

  40. Dawn says:

    We love our fence but we need to make a small change. Currently we use the hour glass layout. Love it and don’t want to change it. But on the backside of the house, there is a flower bed that goes from the center of the back of the house all the way to the left side of the back of the house (all up against the house). We need to keep the dogs out of this bed and that left corner. The dogs now stand in that corner and bark towards the neighbors front yard. This corner is under our newborn’s bedroom window. How do we carefully reroute or add a new loop in that corner to keep them out of that corner and the flower bed along the house on that same side? Also can we run the wire under the it along the bottom of the siding of the house? We are thinking about the reroute involving a long skinny loop and the return wire would go under the siding.

    ADMIN – Hi Dawn. What is the size of the new pet containment area? Have you looked at the Pawz Away Rock Outdoor Zone (RFA-378)? This outdoor pod allows you to create up to a 16 foot zone that prevents your dog from getting too close.

  41. Daniel G says:

    Hello! Your site is extremely informative and very well designed. My situation is that I have a 12 year old, 30# Corgi. As he has aged he needs to “potty” more frequently and I’d like to make it easier for him and me by installing a doggy door and an electric fence. I live in a house with a very small city lot. The backyard has fence on three sides. I don’t want to fence the opening that exists on both sides of the house. The Yard Max sounds like a great strategy but with my tiny yard, is it overkill? BTW, my house is an older home that sits two feet above ground so I could complete a loop by going beneath the house as long as it doesn’t “shock” through the floors… would I twist wires under the house? If you recommend another system, please do. Your advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you! Dan

    ADMIN – Hi Daniel. What is the size of your pet containment area? No. We do not recommend running the boundary wire underneath the house due to amplification problems. Please visit the DogfenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page to view some sample dog fence layouts.

  42. Robert Muller says:

    I am looking to install this on 2 acres of land for my dog (soon to get a puppy for him as soon as this is done) the questions I have are in the front and partial sides of my property I will need to put them on stakes how far apart are the stakes to be and I have T posts and barb wire around my land, what is the distance from that does it need to be for this to work correctly?? Burying is not really an option as I am disabled and unable to do that type of work. Or can I put the plastic insulators on the T posts (about 3″) and put the wire on that?? also is the wire to be tight between the posts.

    Thanks Rob

    ADMIN – Hi Robert. We do not recommend installing the boundary wire on metal T-Post or metal Barb wire due to amplification problems. We recommend keeping a 5-10 foot distance from metal fencing. You can also use Lawn Staples to secure the boundary wire on top of the ground.

  43. Pete says:

    Great to see a website like this that has up-to-date, useful advice. I’m getting ready to do an installation, but have a few questions that I haven’t found info on:

    1) I’m looking at your 1000 ft roll of 14 ga wire wrapped in .45 mil jacket: is that a solid copper wire, or is it stranded?

    2) I’m in NH. I have to worry about heavy snow cover and I have to run the boundary wire along several hundred feet of stone wall (wall about 18″ high): I’d like to run the wire along the ground and tack down with landscaper’s stakes, but ideally, the wire would be run along THE BACKSIDE of the stone wall to avoid having to look at it and hitting it with a weed wacker/mower. My side of the boundary wall is open lawn/landscaped, and the opposite side is heavily wooded conservation land (we live in the sticks). WILL THE RADIO SIGNAL WORK OK THROUGH THE OLD DRY-SET BOUNDARY STONE WALL? ie. the old dry set stone wall has large voids between the stones, typical of many New England properties.

    3) Ideally, the 14 ga wire would be run through 1/2″ landscaper’s tubing to protect against squirrels/rodents: I’m tempted to go with overkill using this method, but HOW WOULD I FEED 1000 FT OF YOUR 14 GA WIRE THROUGH THIS LANDSCAPER’S TUBING??? I’ve seen this question asked, with direct answers avoided.

    4) The boundary loop of my layout will finish in my basement for connection to the transmitter, therefore, there will be a 25 ft length (width of house) passing along the basement ceiling (floor joists), and the dog will be subjected to the signal while in the house upstairs. I’ve read that I can eliminate this problem by using a twisted pair along this 25 ft section, so the question is:
    DO I CUT THE BOUNDARY WIRE AT EACH PENETRATION POINT ENTERING THE HOUSE AND SPLICE A TWISTED PAIR, WHICH WILL THEN BE SPLICED TOGETHER JUST BEFORE THE CONNECTION TO THE TRANSMITTER? I’ve seen a lot of layout diagrams explaining the use of a twisted pair, but does the boundary wire loop need to be fully closed before adding the twisted pair, or does the loop get finished by using the twisted pair? Hope that question makes sense. Thanks.

    ADMIN – Hi Pete. Yes. The 1,000 ft roll of 14 gauge boundary wire is solid copper. No. The boundary wire emits a weak radio signal that would only travel 1-3 inches. We recommend installing the boundary wire in front of the stone wall. Yes. You can use Lawn Staples to secure the wire above ground. However, we recommend burying the boundary wire 1-3 inches in the ground in cold climates. Yes. You can run the boundary wire through 1/2″ plastic tubing to protect against squirrels/rodents. Simply, push the boundary wire through at the beginning of the spool of wire. It is a good idea to have someone hold the tubing while the other person is pushing it through. No. We recommend running the twisted wire from the transmitter to the outside of the house to avoid signal interference problems. We do not recommend running the twisted wire inside of your house along the floor joists because of amplification problems. Yes. You close the perimeter loop circuit by splicing the other end of the twisted wire that is connected to the transmitter.

  44. Heather says:

    Learning a LOT on your website, thank you so much! I have a couple questions for you. Here’s our scenario: We have 3 furry-beasts. Pita is an 8 y/o, 55lbs pitbull. Luna is a 3 y/o 50lbs pit/weinheimer and Fury who’s a 4 month-old pit/lab weighing around 25lbs. The two older dogs are pretty territorial of our yard but only try to escape when the gate is opened. Our yard has privacy fence on 3 sides with our house the length of the 4th. The yard is about 40′ x 80′.

    The biggest problem is that Luna has a bad habit of chewing on the wood privacy fence when the neighbors are in their backyard. She has chewed holes in it so we repaired & lined the a majority of the fence with chicken wire. She’s actually chewed through parts of the chicken wire at detriment to her own snoot! Now the neighbor’s baby is at toddler age & we’re afraid the baby will stick her fingers through & get bit. Plus, the puppy is beginning to model her behavior so something has to be done! We’re considering the YardMax unit to provide a “stay-away-from-the-fence” boundary for Luna in particular. (Luna is a big baby so the Stubborn collar won’t be necessary).

    I saw somewhere on this page that I am able to run the wire ON the fence instead burying it. If that is correct, I’m happy to pull down the eye-sore chicken wire. If correct, exactly where on the fence would I place the line? I already plan on buying the 14g wire, but is there a difference in the type of wiring I should be buying if it’s not buried? How do I adhere it; staples?

    Thanks for your input!

    ADMIN – Hi Heather. We recommend the PetSafe Stubborn Dog Fence (PIG00-10777) for the Pitbull Breed. We recommend adjusting the Boundary Width Control Dial on the Transmitter to the appropriate Boundary Width setting. For example, if you set the Boundary Width Control Dial to 6 you will have 3 feet of signal on each side of the boundary wire. The boundary wire can be installed in front or along the bottom of the wood fence. This prevents the dog from damaging, digging, or jumping over the fence. The boundary flags are set at the 3 feet warning zone inside of the pet area. You can place the flags 10 feet apart around the warning area inside the boundary wire. Then, test the Collar with the Test Light Tool to make sure the collar is beeping and correcting 3 feet inside of the boundary wire. Yes. I would remove the metal chicken wire, or run the boundary wire 5-10 feet in front of the chicken wire to avoid amplification problems. We recommend protecting the boundary wire by burying it 1-3 inches in the ground. However, You can also attach the boundary wire above the ground with Lawn Staples.

  45. Ben says:

    I want to do the single-sided boundary in two different spots (one in the front yard and one parallel to it in the side yard.) Is there a way to do this using only one system? If not, can I hook two systems up to one collar?

    ADMIN – Hi Ben. What is the size of your pet containment area? The “Single-Sided Boundary” can only be installed as it is described on the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page. You cannot install two different “Single-Sided Boundary” layouts on your property. You cannot hook up two systems to one collar.

  46. Carley says:

    We are looking at a wired fence for our pitbull/boxer mix approx. 2 yrs old and 50 lbs. He’s been roaming to the neighbors and eating the compost and barks at them. We are on 2 acres on a lake and would like him to be able to access the water and most acreage. What do you recommend as far as system and wire?

    ADMIN – Hi Carley. You will need 1,500 feet of boundary wire to contain your dogs in a 2 acre perimeter loop. Have you looked at the DogFenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page? What is the temperament of your Pitbull/Boxer mix? Have you looked at the PetSafe Stubborn Dog Fence (PIG00-10777)?

  47. Kari says:

    We are wanting to run a wire in the garage at the door (in the same place the garage door goes up and down. There is no way to make it loop back if the loop has to be 6 feet wide because the garage and the driveway are both concrete. Is there a way around this problem that I am just not thinking of?

    ADMIN – Hi Kari. What is the size of your pet containment area? Have you drawn out the dog fence layout? Please look at the sample layouts on the DogfenceDIY “Planning, Installation and Layout” page. What is the age, weight, breed, and temperament of your dog(s)?

  48. Mike says:

    I have underground electric service 3′ deep. I need to run my fencining along those wires. Is 3′ depth OK for the fencing.

    ADMIN – Hi Mike. No. Running the Boundary Wire parallel to and within 10 feet of electrical wires, neighboring containment systems, telephone wires, television or antenna cables, or satellite dishes may cause an inconsistent signal. If you must cross any of these, do so at 90-degree angles (perpendicularly). We recommend burying the boundary wire 1-3 inches in the ground. What is the age, weight, breed, and temperament of your dogs? What is the size of the pet containment area? Answering these question will help me match your dog to the best electric dog fence system.

  49. Karen Swift says:

    Hello! I have 2 dogs, each weighing aprox. 50#. One is a 9 yr old male Sharpei/Beagle (a SharpEagle!) mix named Fugly and the other a 4 yr old APBT female named Andie. Fugly is hard to train and used to free range on our 4 acres and our neighbors 16 acres but I think with proper training he will be happy in the 3 acres I plan to fence, he is getting older and doesn’t wander as much as he did, more happy just laying in the sun. Andie is our problem as she’s a Pittie and the neighbor isn’t found of the breed. She is also VERY smart but very sensitive as well. I think she will be easily trained to stay in her boundary area but I fear her reaction to a correction may make her fearful or anxious. I AM willing to spend the time training both dogs the proper way and do think it will be worthwhile. I have another issue and that is we do have a metal roof on the house as well as the barn. Our yard layout is similar to your Backyard diagram with our home having the back side of the house butting up against a ditch about 4 feet away from the back. so the dogs would have access to the front of the home and 3 acres of yard. The barn is also situated in the same fashion with the backside in line with the house and butting up against ditch. My plan would be to install the wire 10 feet from the metal roofline on the backside of the home and barn if possible, with the twisted wire coming in thru a window on the back of the home, there is no door, all doors are on front side of home/barn. Thus the dogs would stay out of the neighbors yard as well as the ditch. I THINK this would work but would like your opinion on my situation with the metal roof as well as my dogs temperment as my daughter is very much against an underground wired system. Installing a chain link fence would be costly as well as unattractive and hard to do as our driveway runs in front of the home. We also live in Northern Michigan with very cold winters as well as snow cover and i would be upgrading to 14 gauge wire if i go with the PetSafe YardMax system.

    ADMIN – Hi Karen. You will need 2,000 feet of boundary wire to contain your dogs in a 3 acre perimeter loop. We recommend the PetSafe Stubborn Dog Fence (PIG00-10777) for Akitas, Bulldogs, German Shepherds, Pitbulls, Rottweilers, etc. Have your dogs used correction collars before? What is the full adult weight of your dogs? We recommend installing a “Power Pole” with an electric outlet installed 10 feet away from all large metal objects. Then, connect the transmitter to the electrical outlet in a “Weather Proof” box to keep it dry. Next, install 10 feet of twisted wire to the wire loop terminals in the transmitter. Finally, splice the ends of the twisted wire to the boundary wire that goes around your perimeter loop.

  50. Jack Sanders says:

    I want to do your lakefront layout – allowing my dogs not to leave the property – but to go in the lake as much as they want. I understand the layout – but we have SOOOOO little property that here is my question……………how close can the two wires be to each other in order that the dogs still get a correction. Can I aline the wires within say….5 inches of each other ??- is the connection only broken if I touch or twine the wires together? Or must they be a certain distance apart?

    Jack

    ADMIN – Hi Jack. We recommend keeping a 5 foot distance between two boundary wires that run parallel with each other. If the boundary wire is too close together, there will be signal interference problems with the electric dog fence system. The purpose of the twisted wire is to cancel the signal at the transmitter. We recommend running 10 feet of twisted wire from the transmitter to the perimeter loop.

  51. JoshA says:

    Considering the PIG00-11115 for a .3 acre in-city residential lot near Seattle, WA. We are renting the house and have approval from the landlord to bury the perimeter wire. However, we would like to take the system with us when we eventually move. What is the easiest, and cheapest way to do this? Take the power unit with us and buy new wire? Can I lay the wire on top of the ground at the rental house and then roll it up and take with us to another house?

    ADMIN – Hi Josh. What is the age, weight, breed, and temperament of your dog(s)? Yes. Many of our customers that move install the boundary wire on top of the ground with Lawn Staples until they move. Then, they remove the Lawn Staples from the ground, roll up the boundary wire, disconnect and unplug the transmitter and install their underground dog fence system at their new house.

  52. April says:

    I am getting a invisible fence to contain my livestock guardian dog, The box will be either in my house or in an outside building/barn. How does the layout work for fencing an area away from the location of the box? All your layouts include the house.

    ADMIN – Hi April. What is the age, weight, and temperament of your livestock guardian dog? What is the model of your invisible fence? Does your building/barn contain metal siding or a metal roof? The layouts on the DogFenceDIY.com website represent the typical residential home owner’s property. Have you drawn out your layout? We recommend customers to e-mail us their drawings so that we can help them decide on the best lay out for their underground dog fence.

  53. annie says:

    Hi! I want to thank you for all of the great information! Reading through all of the questions and your extremely understandable answers, has made my decision to “get wired” less stressful and I’m pretty confident that I can do the job right – My two Springers (Sam and Ollie) thank you and so do I – 🙂

    ADMIN – Hi Annie. What is the age, weight, and temperament of your two Springers? What is the size of your containment area? Will you be containing your pets in a perimeter loop? Have you reviewed the PetSafe YardMax PIG00-11115 under ground dog fence?

  54. John says:

    If i get a 1000 ft wire (16 gauge ) once i have made the loop will i need to cut the excess wire and splice the two together? If so how do i splice and connect the wire

    ADMIN – Hi John. Before you begin splicing wire, note the locations of all splices in your perimeter layout for future reference. This will make it easier to locate a wire break (e.g., bad splice, nick in the insulation, severed wire break). We recommend making your splices waterproof. Gel-filled splices are included in your original containment system. To make a splice, strip approximately 3⁄8 inch of insulation off the ends of the boundary wires to be spliced. Make sure the copper of the wire is not corroded. If the boundary wire is corroded, cut it back to expose clean copper wire. Insert the stripped ends into the blue wire nut and twist the wire nut around the exposed copper wires. Ensure that there is no copper exposed beyond the end of the blue wire nut. Tie a reinforcement knot 3 to 4 inches below the blue wire nut. Ensure that the wire nut is secure on the wire splice. Once you have securely spliced the two wires together, open the lid of the gel-filled splice capsule and insert the blue wire nut as deeply as possible into the waterproof gel inside the capsule. Snap the lid of the capsule shut. For proper system performance, the splice connection must be waterproof. Note: If your splice pulls loose, the under ground dog fence system will not function.

  55. John says:

    We are strongly looking into a fence for our 10month old stubborn lab. The problem is if we got the fence we would not keep the wire that comes with it and would upgrade to a more durable wire (most likely 16 guage). We are going to use the first backyard option that wraps around tightly to the front of the house. How do we detirme how much wire we need? Our total yard area is two acres but since the wire is going around the front of our house and the backyard that makes things difficult. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    ADMIN – Hi John. What is the weight of your Lab? Does your Lab understand and follow the basic commands (e.g., come, sit, stay)? You will need 1,500 feet of boundary wire to contain your Lab in a 2 acre backyard perimeter loop. Will there be a lot of traffic (e.g., mowers, string trimmers, aerators, wildlife, tree debris, gardening) near the boundary wire? You will also want to consider seasonal high and low temperatures that also contribute to wire breaks. If so, we recommend upgrading the 20 gauge wire (that comes bundled with the system) to a stronger gauge wire (e.g., 16 gauge, 14 gauge).

  56. Carl says:

    I was told by your sales person over the phone that I could use the fence on a lake by sinking grounding rods at the lake on both terminating sides and that the lake moisture would continue the loop and that I could read about this installation on website but I don’t see anything like that type of installation,

    In other words the loop would be broken with wire ends connected to grounding metal rods that were 6 feet in the ground at lakes edge with the rest of the loop normal, Please point to installation video or instructions. Thanks

    ADMIN – Hi Carl. Here is the link to our layout page http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/ Lakefront Option One is to simply submerge extra boundary wire out into the lake at your desired distance. Do you want your dog to just be able to walk into the lake a few feet so she can get a drink or lay down in the water to cool off? Or do you want to sink the wire over 10 feet so that she can go for a deeper swim or freely jump into the boat when the family goes out? You’re goal will determine how much wire you plan to sink. Lakefront Option Two can be used if you have enough yard space, you can use a double back approach to create a three-sided boundary. Simply set an extra length into the lake when doubling back so that your dog will not be able to easily run around the dog fence.

  57. Judy Larson says:

    if I afix the wire to a fence instead of in the ground, do I still have to go through the training? There is an existing barrier. Our dogs tend to escape under the fence after digging.

    ADMIN – Hi Judy. Is the fence metal? We recommend running the Boundary Wire across wood fences to avoid signal interference. If the fence contains metal, we recommend running the Boundary Wire 10 feet in front, or 10 feet behind the metal fence. Yes. The 2-week dog training is 90% of a successful dog fence installation. The dog training will teach your dog how to stay inside of the new pet boundary area.

  58. dave says:

    I have 2 barns that I want the dogs to go in but not along sides or back. i want to run the line along the front of the barns (both metal) but cancel the signal in front of barn doors. can this be done? thanks

    ADMIN – Hi Dave, you can cancel the signal when you run a double loop boundary only. The double loop broadcast the signal and you canceled area is made with twisted wire.

  59. Peg C says:

    Hello, We have .75 acre yard and plan to do a single buried loop installation for a 6 month old golden lab mix. Part of the yard has exposed tree roots. How do you recommend installation? Do we need to avoid roots all together or can they be navigated?

    ADMIN – Hi Peg, as long as you upgrade to a durable gauge wire, the roots will not affect or break the dog fence wire. I would recommend upgrading to the maximum size of wire, the 14 gauge.

  60. Ted Smith says:

    Can I run my boundary wire thru the walls and ceiling of my garage or is there an electrical code disallowing that?

    ADMIN – Hi Ted, there is not a problem running the wire through the garage walls and ceiling. It is not mentioned because it is typically a more difficult way to install for most customers, but there’s nothing wrong with this installation method.

  61. SammyG says:

    Hi, my girlfriend and I are soon to be moving into a house with a sizeably large piece of property (3 deeds in one), where there is also a large city park and a lake adjacent to the furthest most rear property line. We have 3 large 80 lb dogs, 2 of which are “explorers” who have escaped our current chain linked fence in our yard multiple times until we got a radio collar. All 3 are “mighty” squirrel and rabbit hunters, so being that this new house with the park, lake, trails, is located behind it is far more rural and teeming with wildlife, we HAVE TO KEEP THEM in check and on our property. They’re friendly dogs but still quite intimidating to anyone who didn’t know them, and way too much liability at stake.

    So that said, we are DEFINITELY going to invest into an in-ground wire fence system, and as I am a pretty competent DIY’er, I’m very likely installing one of yours over paying to have one installed, so my question is, can we make it a “dual-zoned” perimeter? I looked over all the samples you have listed, and i think it “may be” possible, but I’m not for certain as there isn’t anything specific to what I’m picturing, like a smaller dog yard perimeter located inside a much larger all purpose yard but still with a perimeter, and having a gate within the smaller perimeter line to allow access back and forth from the smaller into the larger? The way i picture it, imagine a ranch house centered on a fairly large property; there would be one “doggy” specific zone, roughly a 60’x60′ patch behind just one side of the house, a zone that the dogs can access via a doggy door regularly, all day, come and go as they please. That area will be “THEIR” yard, bordered with landscaping to give them and us natural visual aids to where it is; but then also, surrounding that “doggy yard” AND the rest of the property, would be a second perimeter, and a “gate” within the smaller doggy yard which an actual gate that we could open and close, would allow access to the entire yard, front and back, if we wanted to let them run freely and/or just hang out with the people while we’re enjoying a fire pit, or a cook out, whatever, but still know that they’re contained within the confines of the property. Also, “their yard” would have access via a doggy door in the back of the house, but if they would happen to get out the front door or garage door, or “other” back door left open, they still couldn’t just run off, they’d only get so far. So yeah, i want a large perimeter around our house and property, but also a smaller perimeter within’ that larger perimeter, if you can see my vision, now my question, is it possible?

    UPDATE:

    I actually just spent a couple hours on Google maps, doing some trial and error runs with different ideas in how to get a working, full complete circuit layout, on the actual property providing me what I’m looking for. Twisted wire can equal up to 50% of the single perimeter wire, my layout is less just under 10% twisted, and provided the “double back” method is effective as long as the wires are at least 6 feet apart, I actually came up with a working layout that includes a doubled back yard area, approximately 55′x55′, that includes twisted wire access through both the intended backdoor as well as the main bedroom’s back door access, so we can let the dogs out at night if need be, right from the bedroom, and that double backed area is done with the same wire, inside a full property single wire perimeter with the end of the double backed portion actually makes it’s “double-back” curve, it’s just off the house outside the back door, so that would be the are where i put in an actual gate for access in and out of the doggy only area to the bigger perimeter area.

    So now my question is, with a double backed wire layout, what happens if a dog crosses the first wire, setting off the “correction”, but then crosses the second wire also, would that disarm the correction? By crossing a second wire would it trick the device into thinking it returned to the area? Just something I thought about.

    ADMIN – Hi Sammy, you can combine the double loop with the single loop with twisted wire. The application is in a chain: transmitter to twisted wire to double loop to twisted wire to single loop. To answer your question, the signal will be solid across the double loop so the collar will begin correcting and will correct all the way across both wires.

  62. Michelle Fernandez says:

    Is it possible to cancel out a portion of the main loop. For example, in a perimeter loop, is there any way to cancel out just a portion of one side? I was thinking I could splice it at one point, add twisted wire for the length of the side I want to cancel out, and lay that twisted wire in same trench as boundary wire.

    ADMIN – Hi Michelle, yes, you can cancel a portion of a main loop if you are running a double looped layout. In order to cancel, it requires two loops, one inside the the other by a minimum distance of 4 feet. When you bring the parallel wires close together and twist them, the signal will cancel. You however, cannot cancel a signal by splicing twisted wire in to a single boundary wire loop. The system will treat the twisted wire as a single wire in that scenario and as a result the twisted wire would simply broadcast the signal. You also cannot run the wire back and forth multiple times to cancel the signal.

  63. greg says:

    I will soon be purchasing a petsafe yard max from your company. One question is how does a metal roof affect the signal? Can I go over the roof? Can I go next to the house? Thanks for your help!

    ADMIN – Hi Greg, we appreciate your business! The metal roof will not be an issue unless you are running the wire in the gutters to create a back yard loop. Even then, it may or may not ACTUALLY create a problem. It’s only a possibility. If you are running a perimeter loop around the home, you can use YardMax mode and absolutely run the wire beside the home.

  64. Ralph says:

    Hello, I need to do a single side layout along our road frontage, about 400feet. I need to cross one driveway.
    1. There is a plastic culvert that I can run both wires thru, but they would not be separated. Do I just loose the effective barrier where the culvert is? 2. Will this have an effect on the rest of the loop which I understand that I need to keep separated by 3 to 6 feet? 3. What is optimum spacing between the wires? Thanks, your site is very informative. Ralph

    ADMIN – Hi Ralph, 1: yes the signal will be diminished around the culvert area due to the wires lying close to each other. 2: No, the rest of the loop signal will not be affected. 3: Optimal is minimum of 4 feet.

  65. Wes says:

    I can’t figure out how to layout my system. I have a large home (about 6000 square feet, single story) and I have one exit I wish the dog to use. I want to establish a perimeter immediately around the house, except for the garage, to keep the dog (which loved to dig away from the flower beds) and another perimeter around the larger property, about 7 acres. I can’t be the first one to take this approach but I don’t see any sample diagrams that would work for me. Any advice would be appreciated.

    ADMIN – Hi Wes, Can you explain further what you mean by immediately around the house? When will your dog have access to the larger property?

  66. Gary says:

    I read your comments on the difficulty with installing the fence around a duplex. I wonder if there is something you can wrap around sections of the fencing wire to give it a dead spot. Because of the way our yard and fence is laid out I have the need for two sides of the yard to be protected but would like to run the wire through an area I want the dog to have access.

  67. Sharon says:

    We have a large farm and have Great Pyreneese (GP) dogs. Both dogs were trained to the system since we aren’t fully fenced in and needed to protect them from going out on the road but also need them to have access to the farm to protect the livestock. The younger female is very protective of her space and had to be separated so they wouldn’t kill each other. I re routed a line to create a space for each dog which allows them also to protect both sides of the property. They were retrained to their new zones and respect their own space with the exception of the collars or transmitter going bad and replacing the whole sytem. They can see each other and have common areas that both can come into like the garage, shop and deck. My question is have you ever heard of someone trying to separate their own dogs? Have they had success?

  68. Matt Hanks says:

    Thank you for the unbiased ratings of all these systems, and most importantly, thank you for your professionalism and endless attention to detail in answering all of your customers questions! We rescued a Fox/Harrier Hound and we are preparing to set him free after we close on our new home. Through your evaluations, my wife and I have selected the Petsafe Yard Max PIG00-11115, and there is only one thing I cannot figure out from reading all of the comments (and your excellent responses)…

    After mapping and researching your layout plans, I am going to introduce the “U” Shaped loop (keeping them 6′ apart) for my back/side yard. One side of the “U” is going to ride along the house to keep him from entering the flower bed/gardening area.

    My question is: Will the signal extend into the house, limiting his movement inside? This only effects 2 rooms in the house, but we are training him so when we put his collar on, he can go outside through the doggie door and explore his new land while we are home.

    Thanks again, for everything! We will soon be purchasing the unit, and probably upgrading to 16G wire! Cheers.

  69. Larry McKnight says:

    Can I run two boundary loops using two different wires only connected at and powered from a single fence transmitter? We have a primary perimeter loop in place now around the property boundary fence. It used about 750 feet of wire. I would like to add an addition loop to create a small indoor exclusion area to keep the dogs from going upstairs to the bedroom level while we are away for the day. It would require a second loop of about 60 feet of wire. Can one petsafe transmitter power two loops? If possible, will it require a setting adjustment to maintain the same warning distance from the existing outdoor wire loop? Thanks for all the info.

  70. Jill says:

    We are going to put our dog on the single sided boundary to keep him from going near the road – he has 10 acres the OTHER direction to roam and not another road for a while, but do you have any tips on how to make it so he doesn’t simply figure out where the boundary ends and go around the wire? Our property buts up to a farm – ours is grass and when the field is planted, it’s not an issue, but when it’s cut, he does not distinguish our property from theirs. I fear he’ll just start going farther and farther into their property to try to get to the road…

  71. Deawn says:

    We are going to do a perimeter fence- I NEED to know if we give the neighbor dog a collar- will it stay our of our area? As well?

    ADMIN – Hi Deawn, without proper training, what will happen is the neighbor dog will run through the boundary getting corrected each time but will not understand the source of the static shock corrections. The result is a very neurotic neighbor dog with will continue to invade your property.

  72. Linda Wurm says:

    We are planning to install with access to the lakefront for the dogs to drink and wade. If the lake freezes with a couple feet of ice, will the unit still fi=unction through the ice?

  73. Nick says:

    I am looking to put in a dog fence that does the u shape, the backyard final option on the diagram above, and I understand the wires need to be 6 feet away from each other at least. However, how would I connect the wires back together to string into the side of my house and not create a dead spot, since the wires become closer together then 6 feet? How would I accomplish this?

    ADMIN – Hi Nick, if you can email a sketch of your layout, I will be able to let you know. I’m not sure what you’re trying to accomplish.

  74. Mitzi Guess says:

    HI, We have a new boxer puppy, and have a fenced in yard that is no problem, she doesn’t get out. But we do have a drive through gate on a cement driveway that we would like to be able to leave open, as our guineas come in and out the gate. What type of device would you recommend. We only want to stop her at the gate. The gate is approx 40′ from the carport where it can be housed. After looking at all the options I am confused about what we need. Is there a laser type of device that will stop her at the gate, or wire only? Thank you, Mitzi. Future purchaser : )

    ADMIN – Hi Mitzi, I would recommend the Paws Away Outdoor Rock. You can set the battery powered rock on one side of the gate, string boundary wire across driveway and return the wire back to the rock. This will provide the boundary at just the gate.

  75. Phil B says:

    We have a fenced in back yard but would like our dogs to spend time with the family when we’re in the front yard also. I would like them to be able to go out the side gate and access the front yard where we will be installing the invisible fence. Looking at the examples, I believe the backyard layout with the wire running up the downspout and across the guttering is my only option (reversing the back yard for front yard in my set up). We have a side loading garage so I have an outlet for the control box, but I cannot figure out how to cancel out the signal so the dogs can come in and out of the fence gate from the back yard. The wire will go from the controller across the driveway and then down the drive way to the street, across the front yard to the side yard, then up the guttering and back to the box. I really would like to cancel the section that crosses the driveway as it leaves the box. Any ideas? Phil B

    ADMIN – Hi Phil B, one solution can be that you wrap the wire around the back of the home but have it suspended up at the edge of the roof. At the transmitter, you can run twisted wire out of the transmitter. Run the twisted wire across the driveway then split it off: one wire running down the driveway and the other running up the corner to the roof. This should solve both the gate and driveway issue.

  76. Christopher Sahawneh says:

    I have my wire fence going around the perimeter of back yard and along the back side of my house. It’s twisted on the side of my house and connected to the transmitter in the garage. My dogs go out of the back door to the yard and since the wire goes under the deck (and the back door) it sets off the collar. The back door/porch are about 2-3 feet off the ground. I have turned down the boundary so it won’t do that but now there is hardly any boundary zone for the yard. Is there a way that I can make the porch and back door a safe area so the collars won’t go off? I saw one of your layouts that showed going up the downspout and around the area but that won’t work for me.

    ADMIN – Hi Christopher, there is not a good way to make it a safe area without either using a double boundary or simply wrap the wire around the front of your home like the back yard layouts on our site illustrate.

  77. Amando Menocal says:

    Is there a way to place sections of fence to protect only short openings for gates and drive way? We have 3 acres enclosed by an excellent, robust fence. There are 4 openings, gaps of between 4’ and 15’ for a drive way and gates that left open for wildlife to cross the property. From my research I don’t see a way to avoid stringing wire along hundreds of feet of good fence solely to cross 4 small gaps.

    ADMIN – Hi Amando, yes, if you use the double boundary, you can use twisted wire to cancel the gates and driveway. This cannot be accomplished with any other layout. Please find the gate layout by visiting our Planning/Layouts page located on the Installation drop down menu. A second solution is use the Outdoor Rocks and station them at the 4 gaps. This will solve your problem without having to fence your whole property.

  78. Audrey says:

    We live on a large farm and just want to keep the dogs out of the front yard and front porch where the flower beds are but want them to have free roam of the 26 acres we live on. Is there a way to keep them OUT of a small area as opposed to keeping them IN it?

    ADMIN – Hi Audrey, sure thing. You can encircle the area with the dog fence and put the flags on the outside. You will train them from the outside how to retreat from the area.

  79. Noah says:

    Im not sure if this has been asked before or not. Is there any way to run the fence around the perimeter and cancel it out? We have a lake house and want the dogs to be able to go into the water but do not want to run it into the water because of cleaning out weeds in the lake and fear of catching the wire and ripping it. We also do not want to run it in a U shape because we do not have room for it. Can it be placed in something and then put in with out having to dig down and make a deep trench?

    ADMIN – Hi Noah,

    There is no way to cancel the wire along one side of the fence. One option for a lakefront is to elevate the wire up high along the waterfront if there are some convenient trees. This allows the dog to pass under without getting the correction.

    Going deep down does not work very well. You need to go so far down 3-5 feet, that it is impractical.

  80. Colleen says:

    I have a difficult situation. One comment here is somewhat similar but doesn’t completely answer my questions. I live on a bed and breakfast that is tucked back in the woods. The area where my apt is somewhat cleared out of woods with a hill. Directly in front of my apt is the driveway with no yard and on the left of the house is a hill with woods surrounding it that I would like to keep the dogs on and maybe have access to the driveway and my door. How do I go about this with the pavement in front of the house and no yard there? Maybe it’s not possible at all.

    ADMIN – Hi Collen,

    I am not sure, I completely understand, so please forgive me if I misunderstand your layout .. perhaps you can email us a sketch. Could you run the wire around the hill and house, without going into the front yard? To get the wire around the house, instead of trying to cut across your pavement, you could run the wire along the roofline of the house.

  81. william tubbs says:

    We have recently rescued a border collie lab mix and have just discovered she is a jumper. She can easily jump our 4ft wire fence. I originally tried to install the old fashioned electric fence across the top, but she clears it without touching it. We have about 3/4 an acre of a back yard and would like to install it in a U shaped pattern. My question is will the signal interfere with my existing fence or the large “green box” that is at the end of our property that contains the phone/cable company stuff.

    ADMIN – Hi William,

    Yes, those collies can jump!

    No the dog fence signal will not interfere with your utilities nor you livestock fence. Although you may want to deactivate the contact-based eletric fence – you won’t need it once you have the dog fence in place. (Not sure whether it is an issue where you live, but they are not permitted in residential areas in many cities … there have been some horrific cases of children having serious accidents on these fences)

  82. Mary Alice says:

    Can I clip one wire in the middle of a twisted pair coming from the transmitter and:
    – connect a single boundary wire to the two free ends created by the clipping?
    – connect a second single boundary wire to the end of the twisted pair? I hope this works! Thanks. Mary Alice

    ADMIN – Hi Mary Alice,

    Not sure I completely understood, but it does not sound like this wiring layout would work. All connection need to be one-to-one. Anytime you have a place there three wires are meeting then you are going to have a problem.

    If you sketch out a map of the property and what you are trying to achieve, we would be happy to help sketch out the wiring for you.

  83. Mike Nei says:

    I am considering the Pet Safe Ultra Smart In-ground Model model with an upgrade to 14 gauge wire for my installation and have the following questions…..

    – How old should the dog be to start the training? I have a 13 week old Golden Doodle who weighs about 17 lbs. Reading some of the manufacturer websites it seems that they recommend 6 months for the age of the dog however the Invisible Fence Brand website indicates as early as 12 weeks of age.

    -For my fence wire layout I am considering the “Figure 8 / Hourglass” as shown on your website. I have a relatively narrow property (60 feet wide) and want to create two separate zones between the front and backyard that the dog cannot cross between. How close to the house should I sweep the wire loop to create the two zones? I assume that if I sweep the wire too close to the house, I may have a problem with the dog collar activating when the dog is inside the house and near the exterior wall adjacent to the wire.

    ADMIN – Hi Mike,

    (1) Six months is a good age to start training. At 13 weeks I am sure you have noticed how goofy and short-attention spanned your puppy is. Training them at too young an age is much more difficult for both owner and dog.

    If a dog is particularly cognitively advanced (my test is that they can confidently do an off-leash sit/stay/come), I will start training them a bit earlier. But, never before 4 months.

    The 12 weeks claim is just the marketing department! Maybe you could get this on a highly bred hunting dog that had already been intensively trained since weaning, if you did a lot of work with the dog on the fence. But, 12 weeks would be a mistake for your typical pet dog.

    (2) Yes, you don’t want to be too close to the house, otherwise you can get some signal penetration depending on what kinds of walls you have. The distance depends on how wide you are going to set the dog fence boundary. Make the distance about the same as the boundary width.

  84. Michele says:

    I want to allow my dogs access to my entire yard which is about 1 acre. I have three large breed dogs – all over 100 lbs. I actually have two Pet Safe boxes – is there a way to use both boxes. I am assuming that using both boxes will give the fence more amps. We used one box previously and one of the dogs ran through the fence.

    ADMIN – Hi Michele,

    You cannot use two transmitter boxes together. The transmitter box does not control the correction strength, that is controlled solely by the collar.

    If your dogs are running through, you want to try and diagnose the problem and see whether they are getting the correction and getting through anyway (in which case you would increase the correction strength, make the boundary wider, and do some remedial training), or if they are not getting the correction (in which case you need to check the equipment, and check that the collar is properly fitted). You can get a clue if you observe the dog going through the fence and see whether they are yelping or flinching, or if they are going through without seeming to feel anything.

  85. Tony ( Proud owner of a Puppy Siberian) says:

    Hello I am wondering about a few questions here.

    Question 1 – At what age can I put the collar on my puppy? He’s going to be 8 weeks old when I get him and I would like to start training him ASAP.

    Question 2 – Does the transmitter have to be indoors?

    Question 3 – I would like to start my fence in the backyard. So, can I start at receptacle go right all the way down and then left down side of my property and then turn left back side of property and then left again down left side of property and then when I get to corner of my house can I then go up into my drain spout over my back wall and back down to original corner I walked out from and plug into transmitter? Sorry if it sounds confusing, I am new to this.

    Basically, I want only to give my dogs access to the back yard and then be able to walk him out the front on a leash and by my side of course. Legend is his name.

    ADMIN – Hi Tony,

    (1) A good time to start training Legend on the fence is around 26 weeks (six months). Before that, the dog has not developed enough to be receptive to the training. As I am sure you have experiences, at 8 weeks they are all googly eyed and have trouble focusing on anything for more than a few seconds. Waiting to train them makes the process a lot easier for both you and them.

    If you desperately need to train the dog earlier, you can as long as the dog can confidently do a sit/stay/come off-leash. In no circumstance would I train a dog under 18 weeks.

    (2) The transmitter does not need to be indoors, but cannot be exposed to the elements because it is not waterproof.

    (3) Your layout sounds fine. As long as you are forming one continuous loop, starting and ending at the transmitter you are in good shape.

  86. Amanda says:

    Is it true that I can’t cross over the phone line with the perimeter wire? If so, is there any way I can block the interference between the two (invisible fence and copper phone line) such as creating some kind of buffer between the two?

    ADMIN – Hi Amanda,

    You can cross over underground phone lines. Where you cross the phone lines, you want to try and do it at right angles.

    What you want to avoid is running the dog fence wire parallel and close-by other electric wire. This doesn’t cause interference, but in rare circumstance, the dog fence signal can get induced in the other wire, so everywhere that say the phone line runs acts as if it were dog fence wire. If you have to create close & parallel runs, then you want to check to make sure this has not happened, by taking the dog fence collar around your yard and making sure it is not triggering in the wrong places.

  87. Renee says:

    We have a 2 year old Lab/Pitt mix, 65 lbs, who we end up chasing around the neighborhood a few times a month … he’s impossible to catch. With the neighbor kids running in and out of our house, he is constantly darting out an open door. We’d like to enclose the entire yard (small 1/4 acre residential lot) similar to your first sample layout … but I’m not sure how to work the driveway into it. How did you run the wire around the driveway in your 1st sample layout. I’m also wondering if I could/should use a second product just to keep him from darting out the front door … maybe just temporarily until he is trained to stay in the house and then in the yard? Thanks!!!

    ADMIN – Hi Renee,

    To get the wire across the garage, find a convenient expansion joint, flush it out, lay down the wire, then caulk over to hold the wire in place. If there is no convenient join in the driveway, use a circular saw with a masonry blade to cut a shallow slot across the driveway then lay down the wire and caulk it in place.

    For the two weeks of the training, you do want to make absolutely sure that the dog is not escaping. I would not however use another electronic project because this will confuse the dog. A baby gate may do the trick.

  88. Kristen says:

    I have an in-ground fence I’m getting ready to install, the problem I have is that one side of my yard has a physical fence, but the other 3 sides do not. If we do the double loop, it doesn’t leave enough room on the sides of my house for the dogs to get by.. Is there another way to do this?

    ADMIN – Hi Kristen,

    The easiest way would be to run the wire around all four sides including the fenced side. You can reduce (and eliminate) the boundary on the fenced side by running the wire along the top of the fence rather than running it down at ground level.

  89. Tom Simeur says:

    I want to put an in-ground fence in back yard that backs up to lake. I want one side of the back yard to be open so the dogs can walk down from the patio which is fenced in going to the front of house.

    I think I can get this to work if I created two separate wire runs for the right side of back yard and the left side of the back yard (don’t need in water). Can I plug two separate wires into each connector of the transmitter? This will create two separate loops with one transmitter.

    ADMIN – Hi Tim,

    If you plug in two separate loops, it will work, but they will have different boundary widths, and you will not be able to tell when one develops a wire break. The better way to wire two separate loops it to plug one into the transmitter and connect the first to the second using the twisted wire.

  90. Nick says:

    We have small yards (1/3 acre) in our subdivision. My neighbor already has a Petsafe system installed along our property line. I know if I run my line along his, it will kill the signal all along it. Is it possible to get another system that has a different frequency (or perhaps another brand) so that I may run my new line along his and not cancel each other out? Thank you.

    ADMIN – Hi Nick,

    Yes, if you run your system along the same property line as the neighbor, you will both get no signal along that common boundary. The Perimeter Ultra Dog Fence System avoids that problem by letting you choose between different frequencies so as to avoid any signal interference.

  91. Chris says:

    Hello I need a fence that is in ground that can let me keep the metal dog cage in it and the metal cloths line poles and the power line to our other garage.

    ADMIN – Hi Chris,

    I am not sure I am fully understanding your question so please let me know if I am missing the point. You can have a metal dog cage inside the containment are on any of the wired fences. The wireless fences would have trouble with the cage if they are sheet metal, but not if they were just wire mesh.

    Both wired and wireless will have no problems with a metal clothes line or a metal power line.

  92. ed says:

    I prefer to have my entire yard available for my dog but also enjoy taking him for a couple walks throughout the day. I was thinking of wiring the entire yard and running the wire up both sides of the driveway so he would not feel correction if I walk him out the garage and down the driveway. does this make sense and do you think it will work? I’m hoping it also has the added benefit of keeping him off the driveway when hes not going for a walk. Thanks

    ADMIN – Hi Ed,

    Yes, that arrangement would work, but because the signal goes out several feet from the wire, there would only be a thin safe zone down the center of the driveway (if any).

    It is also not strictly necessary. When you take him for a walk, you will be taking his collar off anyway, so it does not matter if the path is blocked by the wire.

  93. Russ Van Sickle says:

    In the figure 8 hour glass layout ,where the wire runs along the house (left side) could I use twisted wire(approx. 30 ft.) to keep the signal out of the house. Thanks Russ

    ADMIN – Hi Russ,

    You can’t use twisted wire as part of the figure-eight. It is mainly used to get from the transmitter to the start of the loop (or figure-eight).

    If you want the wire to be inactive along the side of the house, then another option might be to elevate that wire in that section, so the wire is high enough above the ground that it does not trigger the collar down at ground level. You can for example run the wire up a drainage spout, then across the gutters along the left side of the house.

  94. Chantelle says:

    I have just done the single sided boundary but then found your site that states my twisted section would be too long. It seems to work fine, what issue will I run in to? Thanks! Great site!

    ADMIN – Hi Chantelle,

    Sometimes when you run too much twisted wire it makes the entire system inactive, so even if you go to the single-wire section the then fence doesn’t work. But, if you have it up and running and everything is not working, then you are fine and will not run into issues in the future.

  95. Heather says:

    Hi, we are about to install the innotek ultrasmart fencing system. The layout that works best for us seems to be the double loop so our house will act as a natural barrier. When we lay the wires out and place them 6ft apart I feel like that really cuts into our dogs space to run. Is it possible to do a single loop layout and use the twisted wire to run across the base of our house to connect the 2 ends of the boundary wire and complete the loop?

    Thanks,
    Heather

    ADMIN – Hi Heather,

    Afraid that running a single loop with one side twisted is not going to work, the twisted section will just act like regular wire and will trigger the collars.

    Another option would be to do a single loop and elevate the wire along the back of your house. So instead of running the wire at ground level, you would run the wire up a downspout on one side of the house, run the wire through the gutter, then down the downspout on the other side of the house.

  96. Andria says:

    We have a lab on 25 acres of land. a 1/4 mile away is a county road and we are concerned about the traffic that way. There is a pond on one side and the side we have a horse fence we could go along. Would the single side boundary line work if we went down to the pond and followed the horse fence to stop the dog from going that way? If she runs the other way, there is about 20 acres of wooded area before any other houses.

    ADMIN – Hi Andria,

    The single-sided boundary will only work if you are confident the dog will not attempt to go around. Many dogs that are veteran wanderers will simply learn that they can just go to the side of the fence (or if they are a water loving lab, that they can swim through the pond). For a more homebody type dog, and where the boundary is very long, this may not become an issue.

  97. Joni says:

    I have very large dogs. I am being sued because my dog killed some chickens down the street. I also live on 11 acres of ground. I want my dogs to have space to run, with no worry. Please help me figure this out so I can keep my dogs. 4 dogs in question.

    ADMIN – Hi Joni,

    Sorry to hear about your situation. For large dogs on a large property, the SportDog SDF-100A is usually a good choice. Tell us more about the dogs (age, weight, breed, and temperament) and I could give you some more specific recommendations.

  98. Mike says:

    Our backyard backs up to a natural reserve that we use for walks and bird training. I would like to have a “gate” through the loop. Can I bury 15 feet of the back wire in a iron pipe 2 feet in the ground in order to create the opening.

    Hi Mike,

    Afraid putting the wire in pipe, and burying it 2 feet down won’t help. (It would if you could go 3+ feet down, but that tends to be very impractical).

    The most common way to let dogs out for a walk is to create an ‘exit routine’ where you take off their collar, give them permission, and then escort them out.

    If you want a permanent opening, you choices are to either elevate the wire (6+ feet) or bury it very deep. Alternatively, you can go around the other three sides or your yard, then double back on yourself to create a large U-shaped loop.

  99. Dawn says:

    Quick question. I have a back yard that is split for two houses. I have a metal fence that divides both. Each yard has a dog. How can I run the wires so that the perimeter goes around the back of the house, yet has to block out access to the fence to protect the dogs from digging thru the fence to get to each other. Thank you.

    ADMIN – Hi Dawn,

    Am I right in thinking you are trying to use the same transmitter for both houses? If so, the solution would be to run a figure-eight shaped loop that passes twice over the the fence. To avoid the two wires along the fence cancelling each other out, run one along the top of the fence and the other along the bottom of the fence.

  100. Liz Smith says:

    I live on a dairy farm, so I’d like the dogs to have access to the property and barns out back if possible. I’m thinking of doing the lake front version Option 2 design where the lake would be my barns, but my wire will need to cross a couple of dirt driveways that see heavy machinery crossing them ie tractors, equipment and dump trucks. Any ideas on how to protect the wire? Does the depth of the wire effect the signal too much if its buried too deep? I have driveways (dirt) on three sides of the house, and the only side that doesn’t has the road out front. Or will I just be stuck with some unhappy dogs confined to a designated area. I’m having a hard time keeping them out of the road when people bike or walk by, and a remote trainer doesn’t have the distance or shock value necessary to deter them.

    ADMIN – Hi Liz,

    The wire usually does fine if buried in a dirt driveway, even if there is heavy equipment driving over, as long as you are a few inches below the surface (and it is not a gravel driveway). If you want to be extra cautious, or have a gravel driveway, you want a bit of extra protection and should bury it in a flexible pipe (like an old hose pipe or irrigation pipe).

    You don’t want to bury the wire too deep otherwise the signal doesn’t get through. Six inches is about the maximum depth I would bury it.

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