Electric Dog Fence Training

Overview of Dog Fence Training

The most important part of installing a dog containment fence is training your dog to use the fence.  Invest two weeks in training your dog to use the fence and you will have a happily contained dog. Without the training the system is worse than useless. Training is easy, all you need to do is commit to three fifteen minute session each day for two weeks. 

Here is a quick overview of the training.  The most important principle is to teach the dog that when they hear the tone, they need to retreat (and not run through the fence).  You will find more detailed explanation for each step of the training by following the links below.


Step One: Introducing the Dog Fence

We teach the dog that the boundary flags and the warning beep mean that they need to turn and retreat.  Setting this foundation means that when the correction is applied in the next step, the dog knows what is expected from them and knows how to turn the correction off. For more details on Step One click here.


Step Two: Introducing the Correction

We now add the correction to our training, showing the dog that the consequence for ignoring the beep is a shock. We reinforce the lessons of the first step, that the dog must turn and retreat whenever they hear the warning beep and that this is the only way to stop the correction. For more details on Introducing the Correction click here.


Step Three: Testing Compliance

We test the dog using temptations on the other side of the boundary to make sure that the boundary rules are observed even when the dog is in an excited state. The dog learns that the boundary rules must be observed even if there is a playmate, or food on the other side of the boundary. For more details on Testing Compliance click here.


Step Four: Introducing Off Leash

We start letting the dog play off leash. Starting with short stints, we work our way up to allowing the dog to remain in the yard unsupervised for an entire day. For more details on Off Leash Play click here.


Post-Training

Removing the Flags

After your dogs have had time to get used to the system (generally 2-3 months) and remember the location of the boundary, you can start removing the training flags. You will thin out the flags, taking out every second flag one week, again removing every second remaining flag the next week, before removing all flags in the third week. Click for more details on removing the dog fence flags.


Walks

During the training period, you should avoid your dog crossing the boundary lines at all times. This means you should not leave them unsupervised in the yard. And if you need to take them for a walk, put them in the back of your car and drive them over the boundary or if you have a little dog, carry them over the boundary (with the collar off)
But, once your dog has mastered the training (a couple of months), you can teach them to walk through the boundary when they are on a walk.  For information on creating a walking your dog through the fence, see here .


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{ 30 comments… read them below or add one }

kelly September 12, 2009 at 2:09 pm

I moved to step 2 after a week. My dog had started turning away from the flags on his own after about 1 week of twice a day 10 minute training sessions. So, I moved to step 2. I took him out on his leash and he went right for the boundary and got shocked. He was so upset he runs to the front door of the house or cowers by the house. When he goes in the house he runs to the bedroom or his crate and will not come out. He also shows reluctance to go outside. Will this eventually pass? Do I need to go back to Step 1? Do I continue w/ Step 2?

Thanks,
Kelly

ADMIN – Hi Kelly, Just keep on going with step 2, but turn down the correction to the lowest setting and make sure they never get more than one correction a session or iff you want switch it off completely for the next couple of days (but keep the warning beep on).

Take him out on the leash and spend lots of time creating good associations with the safe zones. Play with him, give him treats, etc. Do this, a couple of times a day in addition to the training sessions. Most importantly when he gets the correction, don’t validate his fears by trying to comfort or console. Just keep leading him confidently on the leash where you want him to go. Remember to end the session with play.

The overreaction will pass. You will often see dogs staying very close to the house for the first few days but you will notice that with the coming weeks they get more and more adventurous. Just keep playing outside with him and don’t reward him for being fearful. I know it is hard, but he will be glad you provided this leadership.

Keep us updated.

oleta hogg October 26, 2009 at 8:14 pm

At what age can you start to train a puppy? We have a 3 mo. old husky and a 4 mo. old boxer.

ADMIN – Hi Oleta,

Two puppies at the same time! We would wait until they are 6 months old. Some people start younger, but we suggest wait until they are mentally developed a little and don’t have that goofy puppy attention span.

Marianne March 16, 2010 at 11:52 am

Thank you for your commitment to diy dog fencing, I really appreciate your informational website.

We have just installed an Innotek in-ground fencing system on a 6 foot privacy fence for our 16 month old boxer that was climbing the fence to escape when he was home alone. The training is going very easily and with only two sessions he seems to understand that boundaries. How should training be adapted if there is already a physical barrier, 6 foot fence, in place? Also, he has a dog door that allows free access to the back yard but I am concerned that allowing access to the backyard during the training process will confuse or hinder training. Is he allowed in the backyard when not training on the fence (and if he is allowed, should he being wearing the training collar). Finally for long term use and after training is complete- since he has never attempted to escape when someone is home does he need to wear the training collar at all times when in the backyard or can the collar be removed when there is someone home with him?

Thanks again for all your help.

ADMIN – Hi Marianne,

The training is essentially identical when you have a physical barrier in place, because we are still trying to instill the same message that: “whenever you hear the beep turn and retreat”. It is a lot easier when you have a fence because it is difficult for the dog to run through. So you can go through the training a bit quicker and let the dog be unsupervised sooner.

I would not let him in the backyard during the training period. The reason is that we don’t want him unlearning what we have taught him. I know that is difficult with a big active dog like a boxer, if necessary fast track the training (do four days on each stage instead of a week). But, I would not want him out there unsupervised during the training period, the risk is that he learns the wrong thing (e.g. that the correction ends after you climb over the fence)

I like to leave the collar on even when the dog is supervised, just in case. Many people don’t put the collars on regularly when the dog is supervised after the dog is trained. As a practical matter, 99% of the time even without the collar – a trained dog will respect the fence. I like to be very cautious and keep the collar on for that 1% of times when he say see the neighbor’s cat and takes off through an open gate. It would be perfectly reasonable if you did not do it that way.

Graham Glenn May 11, 2010 at 11:23 pm

Training for one of my dogs is going to be very difficult – a golden retriever stray that is very timid and nervous. The last time I tried to put a collar on him he wouldn’t come near me for a week and I will have to tranquilize him to get the collar on, so lead training is going to be traumatic for him.
Unfortunately he is a good climber and jumper and went over a 6 foot fence as soon as I finished putting up a section. As one of our neighbors is threatening to shoot any dogs that go on his land – he has lost a few chickens – and my black Labrador has gone missing today I need to do something urgently – any suggestions. Graham

ADMIN – Hi Glenn,

You want to gradually pair the dog and the collar. Just leave it on the ground, and let the dog walk around. Have it nearby during feeding time. Just slow gradual exposure will help desensitize the dog to the collar. With timid dogs, it is particularly important that you stay confident. If you see the dog being excessively nervous, try and redirect the energy by giving them something else to do … a bit of retreiving always works well with Labs. You may also want to exercise the dog before you finally put on the collar – tired dogs tend to be a lot more relaxed.

Brian September 24, 2010 at 11:24 am

Your site is awesome. I got a lot of useful info here. I have one training question. I got a little overconfident in my dog’s ability to learn and let him off leash. Needless to say my neighbors dog came out and he ran through the fence after getting a good jolt from it. Does he now know he can get through? Should I just go back a step and retrain until he always has the correct reaction? Turn up the width of fence or the level of correction? Thanks.

ADMIN – Hi Brian,

Yes, I would just go back a step to the on-leash training with a temptation. If it happened just once or twice it is no big deal. You just want to catch it early before it becomes a habit. I don’t think it is serious enough for you to need to turn up the correction or increase the width of the fence (I presume you have it set to at least 3 feet wide on either side of the wire).

Shawna September 30, 2010 at 11:19 pm

I am writing to say that I really appreciated you and your service at Dog Fence DIY, and thank you for all the advice you have on your site and in your booklet. It was really helpful. I have an 8 month old Anatolian Shepherd/Great Pyrenees puppy, and she actually proved to be a challenge to train, in a different way. I installed the Petsafe stubborn dog fence, as I understood that was the best fence for this kind of dog. However, after the first time of getting the little jingle and vibration from her collar, and my correction, she steered clear of any flags she saw. It was a challenge to get her to go near them. When I turned on the static correction, I had to move immediately from step 1 to step 3, and it wasn’t until well into the week that she finally got shocked (level 3 shock)….and that was enough for her. After that, I pretty much let her run loose (supervised for the first couple of days) because to be honest, it was quite boring to walk a dog every day (and yes, from the beginning I only walked her once a day. Three times a day would have been just over-the-top boring) who wouldn’t go within five feet of any flags, no matter the distraction. Even the cat wasn’t enough to tempt her. Now she is loose day and night, chasing critters away from the garden and barn, and she keeps a good ten feet away from the boundary (flags) at all times. She’s happy, and so am I, because I know she is going to be out there protecting my property and not wreaking havoc at the neighbors! Thank you so much for all the information on this website, and the help you gave us the one time we had to call with a question on installation.

ADMIN – Hi Shawna,

I’m so glad to hear back from you. And thanks for the feedback! I’m glad everything is going well and it’s awesome to hear how much peace you now have. What a difference it makes to have confidence that your dog is contained, safe, and is able to have fun in your yard. Again, we thank you for your business, your feedback, and we’re always here if you need us. Take Care.

Cami October 8, 2010 at 2:23 pm

I have a red heeler mix that hides everytime I get the collar to do the training. She won’t walk on the leash, but thrashes and turns. It makes training very difficult. Any suggestions?

ADMIN – Hi Cami,

You can alternatively work with her without a leash. It may require more patience, but can be done. I do have thought. What do you think will happen if you simply put the fence collar on and let your heeler in the yard? Does she respect and avoid the boundary? You may try that and spend time playing with her in the yard. The fact that she’s hiding tells me she’s already has respect for the fence at some level.

Michelle October 29, 2010 at 8:38 am

Hi, We recently installed the fence for our 3 year old beagle. He’s doing great and quickly picked up on the boundaries. We are still in the first week though so I think he’s still getting used to it but is also a little scared of the fence. So when we take him to the backyard to go to the bathroom he does not go. He will only go to the bathroom if we drive him over the boundary and down the street to another road. Any suggestions?
Thank you!

ADMIN – Hi Michelle,

Dogs often get fearful of even the safe parts of the yard during the training. That is an understandable over-reaction. You often see dogs hugging the side of the house, that is normal and you will see them getting braver over the coming weeks. If you want to help him along, you should help the dog associate more positive things with the safe part of the yard. So try to spend lots of time in the safe part with the dog, playing with the dog, giving him food and attention. With time and positive reinforcement he will quickly go back to normal. One important thing is that you need to project confidence when in the safe zone, if your family is fearful or indulges the dog’s fear it will make it harder for him to adapt. If you are confident, he will take the lead from you.

Also, if a dog is fearful, make sure they only get the correction at most once per training session. Turn off the correction the rest of the time and let the dog only get the warning beep.

Lisa Hannigan November 14, 2010 at 10:16 am

I’ve had a Stubborn Dog fence for about 6 months. My dog did great with it and respected its boundaries. Now, however, he is routinely running through the fence, getting shocked, and then is afraid to come back home. A couple of times, neighbors and strangers have brought him back and crossed back over with his collar on him. I think he is starting to get fearful because of that. When I have caught him, I make sure to take the collar off of him before bringing him back over the wire. He definitely knows the association because he will hold back with the collar on and then happily walk back over the line with me when the collar is off. Do I need to retrain him all over again? I have increased the number on his collar and increased the perimeter, yet he still runs past it whenever he is outside without a leash on when something catches his eye, like a cat, a horse, a deer, or another dog for the past three weeks. I am afraid to let him go outside even supervised as he can easily outrun me and ignores my commands in these situations. Thanks.

ADMIN – Hi Lisa,

As soon as a dog starts to get out, I would go back to the second step of training. You want to check to make sure the collar is fit correctly to make sure the dog is actually getting the correction. We increase the boudnary width setting and increase the correction to make running through more difficult. While we are retraining, it is important that the dog stays on leash in the back yard – once the dog gets intot he habbit of breaking through, retraining takes much longer.

If there are particular triggers like deer, neighborhood dogs, or horses – I would incorporate those temptations into the training so that the dog learns no matter how excited – the boundary rules still apply.

Ken December 8, 2010 at 9:35 pm

I’m considering purchasing an invisible fence. I have two 15 month old neutered shelties males. We live in the country and the dogs at times while unattended will take off in the woods for hours at a time. We would like for them to stay outdoors when we am not home and not wander up into the forest. We would like to install a product which give them about 30- 50 yard radius around the home. Is it realistic to expect an invisible fence to contain the dogs under these curcumstances? Also, does the fence work in the winter with 12-24 inches of snow on the ground?

ADMIN – Hi Ken,

Those conditions sound fine for training the dogs to be contained using an electronic dog fence. With the training, dog can be trained to resist any temptation – no matter how exciting the forest or how much they like to wander.

Snow accumulation isn’t a big deal, all you have to do is turn up the boundary width dial when the snow starts accumulation so you have a bit more power going through the system to get through the snow. Then when the snow starts to melt, don’t forget to dial it back.

Bill Rees January 16, 2011 at 2:10 pm

We have two Scotties that we are trying to keep out of a garden area in our back yard. The back yard is fenced. If we just put the electronic fence around the garden area, will we need to supervise the dogs whenever they are loose in the back yard during the training period? Thanks for your help.

ADMIN -Hi Bill,

Keeping the dogs out of parts of the garden is much easier than containment and you can shorten the training period accordingly. Still I would train the dogs for at least a week during which time I would not let them into the garden unsupervised. It is much easier to teach the dogs the right habit, that the beep means they need to turn and retreat, than to try and fix bad habits later. Left to their own devices, dogs can sometimes develop bad habits like freezing in the correction zone, or trying to run through.

Wally Kandel January 20, 2011 at 8:11 am

Will retraining work or do I do something else? We have 2 dogs and they are ~7 years old, both are mixes. Colly / Shepard (Harley) and Lab / Colly (Tucker). They were easy to train and have obeyed the fence for years. Recently Tucker has been crossing the fence and going on runs for about an hour and then he returns, crosses back into the yard and comes to the door to come in. Harley stays in the yard as always and is usually upset when Tucker leaves. Tucker will not come when called if he is outside the fence, he seems to return whe he wants to. He has done this 4 times in the last 3 weeks and all other times he is outside he stays in the yard. He is fixed so I don’t think he is visiting a female in heat. We have R21 invisible fence system and we sent the collar to them to check it out and it was OK so they turned it up one level of intensity. The fence is working properly, he seems to have decided that crossing is worth the shock. He is not car savvy and I have concerns we could get hurt out. Any advice on how to fix this problem? Do we put a bunch of flags up and train him like he has never seen the fence before? It is frustrating after so many years of success.

ADMIN – Hi Wally,

I think you should be able to retrain Tucker. Labs are pretty easy to train and he has only gone through a few times.

You want to test that the collar is still working and delivering a correction. (I don’t think the Invisible Fence Systems come with a testing tool, so find a sucker and have them hold it on their hand when they walk through) But, the most likely culprit is that you don’t have good contact between the collar and the dogs skin. You have to move the hair out of the way and make the collar tight enough that you can insert two fingers between collar and neck, but no more than two fingers. What usually happens is after so much sucess we start getting lazy and not fitting the collar correctly and the dog eventually learns that they can go out without getting the correction.

Once we know the collar works and that it is fitted right, put the flags back up and go through the second week of training. (you may need to use temptations to get him to cross) As the dog goes through the fence, you want to observe the reaction to see if the dog is actually getting the correction. If the dog is getting the correction and still going through, you will need to make the fence a little wider and turn up the correction level. (With the Invisible Fence Systems you will need to get a service call, you can’t do this yourself)

Corey February 11, 2011 at 12:33 am

We have a 1 year old Golden Retriever Lab mix that we take to our family cabin with our 2 year old and 6 year old sons. He was adopted from the local humane society. After a couple of weeks with a leash I decided to try to let him free with the kids. The property borders a state road and we have 12 acres with a pond and a canal. Doug (our dog) stayed with the kids and never leaves the area. This was about a year ago and he still rides down with us and stays on the property. Our dog is always around and loves to swim and follows the kids all the time. Sometimes more than often I think he is a human :) . He sleeps with us on the pillows, he puts up with our kids, he understands commands and is completely potty trained in record time. The funny part is I was talking to a good customer/ friend about Doug (we own a family business) and come to find out he was the breeder. I think we may get another one as a friend for Doug. I have to say after growing up with dogs my whole life that I have never seen a dog like him. Just a note my oldest son who is 5 has PDD-NOS and I feel Doug loves him and understands him. I truly feel blessed.

Admin – Hi Corey

I have a 13yo nephew who is mildly autistic, so I can relate. We are privileged to be a part of that world.
Apart from you, your Golden Retriever, Doug will be his good friend for some time.
Good for you.

Cheri - Michigan March 4, 2011 at 9:13 am

I have a 4 year old Shiba Inu. We started him off on the electric fence as soon as we got him as we had done with our other dogs and have had ZERO problems. He even stopped when his collar was off and we had to cross the boundary to go for a walk. I always praised him for that. Just in the last few weeks he has decided to run through the fence. We got a brand new collar with the long prongs-didn’t help. We cut the hair around his neck-still no luck keeping him in. He doesn’t even try to go near the fence when on a leash-so I don’t know that re-training that way is going to help. Do you have any other suggestions? We have an acre of land he can run on and sniff (which he loves to do) it kills me to have to tie him up on a long lead-gets tangled around trees etc.

ADMIN – Hi Cheri,

Try and get him to cross while on a long leash so that we can see if he is still getting the correction (you should see him react). To get him to cross you may need bait like another dog, ball, food, family member (or some combination thereof) on the other side.

If he is not reacting it is probably the collar not getting a good connection. If you have an IUC-4100 or IUC-5100, use the collar check mode to check fit. With out brands, you should be able to see

If the dog is getting the correction and ignoring it, then we should make the boundary a little wider, increase the correction strength, and repeat the last week of training.

You are doing the right thing by tying up the dog now. Letting her loose is unsafe and will get her in the habit of crossing, which makes retraining harder.

Bob Hall March 6, 2011 at 6:36 pm

We have a 800 foot circumference system on our property and have a terrier-spaniel mix that has resided within the boundaries since the summer of 2008. This dog was fully trained within a week’s time and has not once attempted to break out. The professional that installed our system indicated that from his many years of experience, each breed of dog seems to display its own level of “trainability”.

We brought a three-year-old, rescued Boston Terrier into our home yesterday. Our intention is to follow the prescribed training schedule, but was curious if your experience would allow you to predict the BT’s “trainability”. Good site. Thank you for your consideration.

ADMIN – Hi Bob,

I agree with your installer that different breeds seem to have different patterns in the training. Some breeds tend to be really fast learners, some take a little longer. Some require a strong correction, others will jump with even a mild correction. Some are timid and will never test the boundaries once trained, others will frequently test their boundary. There is of course lots of variation within breeds too, all dogs having their own unique personalities. It is very rare that a dog cannot be trained, but you need to adapt your methods to suit the dog.

I find Boston Terriers to be a little slower in the uptake than average. They learn how to use a containment system easily, but it can take a few days longer than say an Australian Shepherd who tend to be very quick on the uptake in this type of task.

mark March 28, 2011 at 12:14 pm

My dog did great in training the first couple of days then he decided to just stop. Instead of walking around, he just lays down and stops. He is a Pitbull/Lab. I work very long hours, but am trying to keep his training at regular hours. Any helpful tips?

ADMIN – Hi Mark,

When the dog just lays down it usually because they are feeling overwhelmed. I am guessing you went straight into the correction and after getting the correction a few times, without fully understanding why he got overwhelmed and just refused to move to avoid getting the correction.

Turn off the correction, and spend a week doing the training with just the warning tone. This gives the dog the chance to learn the system before we introduce the stress of the correction. That way when the correction is introduced it is not a big deal because the dog knows exactly how to make it stop.

You will also want to spend as much time as possible playing in the safe zone and making it fun to undo that negative association that he has developed. It will take a while, it can take a while to undo this kind of negative association once it develops.

Tom April 12, 2011 at 10:12 am

Hello I just got a petsafe wireless fence I have three dogs I started training two days ago and things seemed to be fine then today my fiancé called and said they all crossed the boundary and only 1 came back the other 2 froze and yelped as they continued to get shocked please help what do I do.

ADMIN – Hi Tom,

Sounds like the dogs need more training. I would complete the full two weeks of training before letting the dogs out unsupervised. If you lets the dogs out after only two days I would not expect them to have understood the new rules. They simply don’t understand that they need to turn and retreat in order to turn off the correction.

I would continue on with the training, and keep the dogs on-leash when outside until the training is complete. Letting the dogs wander around off-leash now is just going to lead to confusion and unnecessary correction.

Sallie Giesbrecht April 29, 2011 at 5:51 pm

My husband and I will be moving to a 6 acre wooded property in the country soon and are considering getting an invisible dog fence. I am a little concerned about the training stage because our three year old lab/ retriever is strictly an outdoor dog. She has never been allowed inside because of family allergies and asthma. Should she be chained to her doghouse while being trained since being in the house is not an option? Thanks.
Sallie

ADMIN – Hi Sallie,

You are correct in thinking you’ll need to keep her contained. The other option is using a crate if chaining her up isn’t feasible.

Kathy May 18, 2011 at 6:31 pm

I have been using a Sport Dog training collar for correction on basic dog training and on walks. Your website says to wait 3 months before using a dual purpose collar. Since I have already been using a remote training collar for a couple of years, how do I use an electric dog fence without confusing the dogs?

ADMIN – Hi Kathy,

We advise against introducing the two types of collar, a containment collar or a training collar at the same time. The order in which you introduce them is not important. What is important is that if you give the dog a couple of months after introducing one before introducing the second. This avoids the dog getting confused between the two collars and getting overwhelmed. You want the dog to feel comfortable that they know how to “switch off” the correction before you introduce something new.

In you case, you can jump right into containment training. Since you introduced remote training years ago, the dog will understand what that is all about and will be ready to learn something new. Dogs that have remote training experience generally pick up containment training a bit faster, because the basics are similar.

Ange May 20, 2011 at 6:53 am

I don’t know if you are the right person to ask but…..We live in New Zealand and a rural property with 1/2 acre of chicken fenced area around our house. After a 9 month period with no probs our 2 choc labs have just discovered the neighbor’s chicken coup and the local school just down the road and this week have escaped twice. This has led to a visit from the local authority and we have temporarily rehomed them. I have purchased a Petsafe stubborn dog fence and we are going to intall it tomorrow. My question is about training – I work wed to fri each week and will have to chain them up when I go to work on wednesday (today being Friday night our time). If we manage to install it tomorrow and if I follow the training guidelines, chain them up for 3 days then continue with the training from Saturday, do we have any hope of them remembering what they have learned? It is a large outlay and we are really at our wits end. I realize each dog is different but I don’t want to spend more money if you think it won’t work.Our only other option is to permanently rehome them and I don’t want that!

Hi Ange,

The training is faster and easier if you can get two continuous weeks of training. Breaking up the training (with 4 days on, then 3 days off) will still work but will likely take you a little longer (3-4 weeks). If possible, have someone drop in on the days you are out and give the dogs a quick training session. Otherwise, no big deal it will just take your dogs a little longer.

After the training, you should not have any trouble containing labs. They tend to be among the easiest dogs to teach.

Tracy May 24, 2011 at 10:56 am

Hello, I just received our new fence from you guys and am super excited about getting the system installed and allowing our 3 lab/German shepherd mix dogs to enjoy our 5 acres without the worry of them getting into trouble…which has been extremely difficult!

Here are my questions: for multiple dogs do we need to do individual training for each dog 10/15 minutes a day for 3 weeks? Secondly, our dogs must remain outside, how do you recommend doing the training while they are accustomed to being outside all the time and having the entire property surrounded by the new fence?

Thanks so much for your site….it’s very informative!!!

ADMIN – Hi Tracy,

You do need to do the training with each dog individually. It helps if when you are working with one dog, you hide away the other two. The dogs tend to focus too much attention on each other if they are all present.

The dogs should not be allowed to cross the border during the training as this will be very confusing for them. If they are outside dogs, I would keep them temporarily tied up, or on a zip-line. We don’t like tying up dogs either, but this should be temporary – they will soon have complete freedom.

If you need to take them outside the boundary during training for walks, load them in the car and drive them over the boundary. You can also carry them over, but this is probably not going to work with dog’s of your size! Again this is temporary, once they are trained we can teach them how to go over the boundary when we give them permission. But, for now we want to be very consistent and maintain the rule that they can never cross the boundary.

Mark June 9, 2011 at 10:16 am

I have three dogs, a Golden Retriever, a Lab and a Cocker Spaniel. Two of the three (Golden and Cocker Spaniel) are adequately restrained by the existing wood perimeter fence. Unfortunately, the Lab is like a gazelle and routinely jumps the fence. Will I have an issue training the Lab if she is the only one with a corrective collar for the electric fence? (ie will she try and follow the other dogs if they get closer to the perimeter wooden fence). Thanks.

ADMIN – Hi Mark,

That is not a problem. If you have multiple dogs, then you can train just one of them. They will just learn that different rules apply to them. (Unlike humans, the lab is not going to sulk around thinking about why life is unfair!).

One tips, when you are training the lab, keep the others inside, so they don’t distract the dog being trained. Often when there are multiple dogs present, they pay more attention to each other than to their trainer. So we recommend training dogs separately.

Kris June 16, 2011 at 11:34 am

We have an Irish Wolfhound/Lab mix and a German Shepherd/Lab mix. They both have been trained with the remote collars for walking and being on a leash, so essentially the correction to them indicates “heel”. My husband is concerned that as when they receive the correction that they will come running to us (which is not necessarily a bad thing) with the installation of an invisible fence. However, we would like them to be able to enjoy themselves in the yard and prevent confusion. Any suggestions on doggy psychology in how to retrain their pre-programmed behavior or than it might just take longer?

ADMIN – Hi Kris,

Dogs that have remote correction tend to ‘get it’ much faster than most dogs because they understand they need to do something to turn off the correction.

If you just work through our training protocol you will be fine. In particular, our Step One where we teach the dog what we want them to do before layering in the correction is very useful where you have remote training experience. In Step One we teach the dogs what we expect from them with only the beep, before we add the correction. That way the dog knows exactly what is expected from them before you apply the correction. So when your dogs do get corrected, they will tend to make the connection to turning and retreating rather than heeling.

If you find the dogs are reacting to just the beep (because your remote collar beeped as well), do the Step One training without the collar at all, so there is no connection at all to the remote trainer.

Susie June 27, 2011 at 10:46 pm

I have a 2 yr. old male boxer who is 75 – 80 lbs. and solid muscle. Previously, I have trained 3 other dogs very successfully with the pet safe fence. However, this dog has been a real challenge. He was doing well for about 2 weeks, but, now has figured out he can take 2 laps around the yard to get up his velocity and then jumps about 6 feet in the air over the invisible boundary. Then, he is free dog to run around the neighborhood. Any suggestions?

ADMIN – Hi Susie,

If you did not do the 2-week training, I would go back and do that. It will teach the dog that the only way to escape the correction is to turn and retreat and that running through is not an option.

If running through is still a problem, I would increase the correction strength and make the boundary zone wider to make running through more difficult.

Jenn Kayser July 4, 2011 at 9:25 am

I have two dogs and one is fine with the system, the other has ran through it twice. We increased the width to 3 feet and upped his correction. He saw a deer the other day and ran through and we never heard a peep, but coming back was traumatic and he was corrected at least 3 times & ran straight into the house. Now he does not want to go outside. What should we do?

ADMIN – Hi Jenn,

What kind of training did you do with the dog? I would go back through the training – particularly if you didn’t do the full training the first time. Concentrate your effort on the third phase of training where you are working with the dog on staying contained even when there are exciting temptation on the scene.

If the dog has become fearful, you want to spend lots of time doing positive reinforcement, like playing with the dog in the safe zone, walking in the safe zone, and feeding in the safe zone.

I would also increase the boundary width to at least 5 feet on either side of the wire, preferably more.

Reb August 5, 2011 at 4:15 pm

I have a 4 month old airedale that I’m training to the electric fence. She has gotten corrected a few times only be training her for 5 days, but I take her out to go around the yard she will not go close to the flags, so do I make her go close to flags? (drag her ?) I know she is not ready to be off leash, as she has tried to follow our other dog over the boundary. when we go around the yard she won’t even look at the flags

Admin-Hi Reb,

It is common that after you start the training most dogs will not go anywhere near the boundary flags. After all, they have just learned that going near the flags is bad and they do not want to even be near the flags. You will see over the next couple of weeks that your dog will become more adventurous. They will start roaming further and further from your house and closer to the flags. However, you do not want to force the dog to go near the containment flags. That will just make them associate more bad things with the flags. Give the dog time and let them learn at his own pace.

Kathryn September 16, 2011 at 3:45 pm

Hi- Our 5 yr. old Vizsla has been doing wonderfully for the past 4 years with the petsafe invisible fence. A few weeks ago, the neighbors got a dog that our dog LOVES to play with. Now when he sees the neighbor’s dog outside, he breaks through the fence to play with him. We have done a small amount of retraining to help him remember the boundary. But it didn’t make much difference. He seems to be willing to take the “hit” in order to get to play with his new friend. Suggestions?

ADMIN – Hi Kathryn,

I would start by observing the dog when they are going through and making sure they actually get the correction. Often, over time we get lazy about putting the collar on so there is proper contact, or the collar has stopped working and the dog is just staying inside out of habit. You will know the collar is working and correctly fitted if you hear the beep and you see the dog visibly react.

If all that is working, then we need to do a little remedial training. Put the flags out again. Make the boundary a little wider, turn up the correction level and go back to Step 2 and Step 3 of the training. In particular, borrow the a neighbor’s dog and use it as the distraction in Step 3 so the dog learns specifically that even if the neighbor’s dog is on the other side – they cannot cross.

Andrea September 26, 2011 at 5:54 pm

So we’ve finished Week 1, and Dobby will usually refuse to approach the flags. But now I’m trying to get him the correction. He received one, and ran back to the safe area.

Now he won’t go anywhere near enough to the flags, even to set off the beeping! I tried a couple of distractions (a ball, my kid walking through), but again, he’s not going anywhere near the flags.

Are we done? There are lots of different sides to our yard, and I’m not sure he is sufficiently well-trained at all parts of the boundary. What should I do?

ADMIN – Hi Andrea,

Sounds like he has got the basics down, but is overcompensating and is perhaps a bit fearful. That is common. You want to keep working with the dog, but focus more on positive time in the safe zone. Feed him out there, play with him, give him a bone, etc. Most importantly, project confidence when you lead him around the safe zone. He will get more confident, and start to get closer to the boundary – but it can take a couple of weeks.

It is definitely too early to let him off leash. I would complete the full two weeks of training and then do the compliance/temptation testing (what we call Step 3) before starting up leash)

Mark November 5, 2011 at 8:08 pm

I have a 7 year old lab that is used to staying in the yard behind a tall fence. I have never been able to train him to use a single part of the yard as a bathroom and with two small boys this can cause issues. We are moving to a new neighborhood that does not allow tall fences so I am going to try the electric dog fence, one thing I would also like to do is teach him to limit his bathroom activity to a certain part of the yard. Is it possible to set up a system such that there are two separate areas for him, one to roam in and one to do his business in?

ADMIN – Hi Mark,

Unfortunately, there is not anything I am aware of that will limit the dog to pottying in certain areas.

Anne Marie January 7, 2012 at 12:01 pm

We have an 11 week old German Shepard/Husky mix. Is she still too young to start training? When is the best time to start? Our 5 year old Lhasa/Maltese is well trained to our fence and we have over 1.5 acres fenced. We would like to start before she ever tries to leave the yard.

ADMIN – Hi Anne,

6 months is a good time to start training the dogs, before that most dogs have puppy brain and are too easily distracted. I am okay with starting a dog earlier if they are advanced (i.e. they can confidently do a sit/stay/come).

With younger siblings, training tends to be easier because they observe the older dog respecting the boundary and they naturally have an inclination to not wander too far from the older dog.

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