Walking Your Dog

Now that you have your system installed and your dog trained, how do you take the dog for a walk outside the system boundary?  Remember we told you that while training, you should take the dog on walks by taking off their collar receiver, putting them in your car and then driving them over the boundary.  You should keep doing this procedure for about one month to make sure your dog really understands and respects the boundaries.

After the month, and you are sure your dog really understands the system works you are ready to train them to be taken on walks without using the car.  First, pick a spot on the boundary as your entry/exit spot, always use this spot when taking your dog out for a walk.  Now take the collar receiver off the dog and attach their walking collar and their leash.  Now walk the dog confidently over the boundary at the spot you chose.  The first few times you may get resistance from the dog.  Be confident and firm as you stride across the boundary.  Always enter and leave your property from the same spot on the boundary and always when the dog is on the leash.  Your dog will quickly learn that the boundary will not shock them when they are with you and on their leash.

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{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }

Jack July 31, 2013 at 4:43 pm

Hello, I’ve got two male Samoyeds, 5 and 3. The back and side yards are enclosed with a metal fence and connects to a concrete wall in the front yard. Now the older of the two dogs has figured out that he can jump up and over the front containment wall and escape. Can you recommend a system which might keep them in? Thanks

ADMIN – Hi Jack, As long as your dogs weigh over 12 lbs, I would recommend the PetSafe Ultrasmart PIG00-13619. It is a slim, light weight collar that is rechargeable. You can simply run the wire along the base of your fence and this should immediately prevent your dogs from jumping or digging under.

Curt May 21, 2013 at 2:12 pm

I am considering a backyard layout only. My dog would walk out through a deck door (about 6 feet off of the ground). The area under the raised deck is enclosed and the system would plug in there. If I ran the wires along the ground next to the house and under the deck, would that work the same as running up through the eaves?

ADMIN – Hi Curt,

Yes, running the wire six feet down below the deck would create enough separation between the dog and the wire that he could pass above without getting the correction. (In exactly the same way that running the up above).

Yvonne April 8, 2013 at 6:41 am

Hello, Comcast Internet is coming to bury a cable, how can I mark where my invisible fence is? Comcast cut my neighbors invisible fence, trying to prevent a headache. Thank you

ADMIN – Hi Yvonne,

If you don’t know the layout of your fence, you can figure it out using the dog collar. Just wander around with the collar, and mark where the collar starts triggering and you can make a good guesstimate of where the wire lies. To mark the location you can either use spraypaint, leftover dog fence flags, or some marking flags (available in the plumbing section of big-box hardware stores)

Dwightel July 25, 2012 at 7:45 pm

Does each dog need their own collar?

Admin- Dwightel,

Each dog should have its own collar on.

Rena June 23, 2012 at 9:19 pm

How big of an area will 500 feet of wire cover?

Admin- Hi Rena,

500 feet of boundary wire will cover 1/3 of an acre.

Leslie March 12, 2012 at 5:17 pm

Hi, we have a very big backyard and a very small front yard. Would it be reasonable to put the fence only in the backyard (a great big rectangular shape) and not at all in the front yard? Then, when we want to take the dog for a walk, we go out the front door into the front yard and never cross the boundary. The backyard is for running around and playing free and the front yard (and street) is for walking politely on a leash. Is this realistic? Thanks!

ADMIN – Hi Leslie,

About half our customers will enclose only the backyard as your suggest. This arrangement works well. It also avoids having your dog startle pedestrians that are walking by and don’t realize the dog will stop at the boundary line.

The only thing to watch out for, when you do a backyard only layout is to make sure the fourth side of the rectangle that goes across the back door does not trigger the correction – otherwise the dog cannot get out the back door. There is a lot more information on how to do that in the Installation –> Layouts section of the website. The most common way to acheive that is to elevate the wire across the back of the house, running it along the eaves – the height of the wire above ground prevents it triggering the collar down on ground level. There are other methods in the Layouts section of the website.

Robin Lewis November 8, 2011 at 5:01 pm

I have a 1 1/2 yr old shepherd /dobe mix. She is well behaved but her insatiable prey instinct has made yard training and the ability to have her accompany me while hiking, biking, skiing etc. off leash impossible. As these were at he top of my wish list for her when I adopted, it has been very disappointing. Never the less, dog and ownwer have learned to live happily within the confines of being leashed at all times. I have, however, done quite a bit of research on wired and wireless fences. I am convinced that her bolting right through (and past) the correction with a wired system, and the slow response of the wireless would be big hurdles during training. Given the fact that she is content on a run (I think she almost knows she can’t control herself and wants to behave) and the fact that a fence wouldn’t help with hiking and the like, it makes me wonder I should settle for the status qou. Or do you think the limitations of either of these systems with a prey instinct like hers can be overcome? I know that she would require remedial attention during phase 3 of training. But since I cannot adequately simulate the real prey she will be exposed to, the only way to train would be to do it when the real thing is present. I see repeated failures so implementing to “one shock/ session” rule would make training short, spotty, and continually interupted while retrieving her, at best. What are my options? Please advise! Thanks a bunch from both of us.

ADMIN – Hi Robin,

German Shepherds and Dobermans can be among the harder dogs to train, because they are often bred to have a high pain threshold. Have you ever noticed that in her temperament. Have you ever uses a shock collar on her? Or have you ever accidently stood on her tail or something like that? We are interested in her reaction, whether she reacted or was very stoic.

I don’t worry about the prey drive issue. Training the dog out of chasing prey should not be a big deal if you have some leverage (like a shock collar or a dog fence collar). The desire to avoid the strange shocking sensation, startles them out of the fixation on the prey and gets them to refocus on the boundary. As you said, the key is doing the training, and I suspect it will be closer to 3 weeks than the typical 2 weeks for her.

The number of shocks per session really depends on the dog’s reaction. We don’t want her overwhelmed. If the dog reacts calmly to the correction, I am comfortable letting them get more than one correction a session. But, at the same time if they keep getting the correction, I would be concerned that either they have no idea what we want them to do – or that the correction is not strong enough for the dog and we need to level up. The correction needs to be high enough that they really want to have nothing to do with the boundary, but not so high that they get overwhelmed and stop learning.

If you want to try a dog fence, for a strong dog like yours with a high prey drive, I would use a PetSafe Stubborn – it has the strongest correction. You won’t necessarily need the higher levels of correction, but it is good to have them there in case you need them.

Philip May 9, 2011 at 2:06 pm

Can my dog associate that there are no boundaries when I put a different collar and leash on him? And is it safe to have a dog door and leave him home alone, how effective is a fence.

ADMIN – Hi Philip,

Some dogs will make the association and understand that the different leash and collar mean they can go through the boundary without getting the correction. Others will never make the connection and will only go through on your command. If you are looking for rough figures, in my experience I would say about 70% figure it out, and 30% don’t.

Once the dog is trained, and you have successfully tested him with some strong temptations (Step 3 of the training) you can leave him home alone.

Doug January 20, 2011 at 1:15 pm

Hi,
I take my dogs for a walk by exiting my property out the back through the woods. There is no way to drive the dogs across the boundry because there is no road. I was thinking of making some sort of gate that we exit through. That way the dogs understand that we are exiting in a special spot.

My question is this. Can I install a switch at the gate that interupts the the wire, thus simulating a wire break? Then we walk through the gate into the woods. What do you think, suggestions? Thanks Doug

ADMIN – Hi Doug,

Creating a physical marker like a gate to denote where the dogs can exit with your permission works great. You can install a switch to turn off the fence by breaking the circuit as you suggest. Or you can just take off the correction collars. I prefer taking off the collars because it avoids the dogs getting a correction from the neighbor’s fences while on a walk (probably not an issue in the woods), and because it gives the dogs another physical indicator that they are allowed to go through the fence.

sharon April 25, 2010 at 11:31 am

We have property that is divided by a road. We would like to have a dog fence on the property across the road from our house since it provides much more room for him to roam. Is it possible to train the dog when we have to enter and exit the property everytime? It is impractical to put him in the car and drive him across the road for 2 months. Is there any alternative???

ADMIN – Hi Sharon,

I like to do something very different with the dog when I take them across the boundary during training. You take the collar off and drive the dog over the boundary, or if the dog is small even pick them up and carry them over the boundary. That way they don’t get confused about why they can cross sometimes and not other times.

You can try teaching the dog earlier, but I find that if you do it inside of a month it is often counterproductive, because it takes you longer to teach them the containment basics.

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