Is a Dog Fence For You
The benefits of a dog fence are:
- Aesthetic – for most people the biggest benefit of an electric dog fence is that it is invisible. You can still have an open yard while keeping your dog securely contained. This is particularly useful where zoning guidelines prohibit fences in your front yard.
- Containment – a dog fence that has been properly installed and more importantly, where the dog has been properly trained is better at containing a dog than a traditional fence. The dog cannot jump over, tunnel under or chew their way through the fence, and nobody can accidentally leave the gate open.
- Price - an electric dog fence will be much more affordable than even the cheapest physical fence. You can get a top-of the line dog fence (like the Innotek Ultrasmart) for a total cost of around $300 and a weekend’s work. A physical fence is going to cost in the $1,000s and take a lot longer.
But, a dog fence is not the right choice for everyone. For the dog fence to work you will need the following:
- Minimum Yard Size - for your dog to have a reasonable area to play, the smallest dimension of your yard should be at least fifteen feet. DIY Dog Fence systems work in yards of up to 100 acres.
- Power Source – your yard should be near a power outlet. It is okay if the power outlet is indoors.
You should not install a Dog Fence if the following apply:
- Aggressive Dogs - dogs that are aggressive with strangers should not be trusted on only an electronic dog fence. There is not only the problem of your dog escaping but the problem of visitors entering your property and getting bitten. Instead consider getting a combination of both a physical fence as well as an electronic fence to make certain your dog is securely contained. Also note that these stronger will dogs should use a system designed for stubborn dogs. (e.g. PetSafe Stubborn Dog Fence)
- Pregnant or Infirm Dogs - you should not start training a dog on the use of a dog fence in the later stages of pregnancy or if the dog is infirm. Wait till your dog is back to normal before introducing them to the fence. Puppies should be 6 months old before you start training. Small dog (under 10 lbs) should only be trained on a system suitable for small dogs (e.g. PetSafe Little Dog Fence)
Infirm Owners - some owners just cannot bare the thought of imposing any type of discipline or boundaries on their dogs. (If your dog thinks the couch belongs to it, this probably applies to you!) The fence will not work by itself, you will need to commit to training the dog for two weeks, three fifteen minute sessions a day. Without the training the system is useless. Be honest with yourself, if you can’t commit to the training, save you money and buy “doggie steps” so that your dog doesn’t get hurt while climbing onto your couch.
{ 11 comments… read them below or add one }
I am considering the 5100 for use at my home in the city. Can I use the collar and the correction feature when I am at a different location than where the wire is burried? I have a vacation home where the dog runs free but occasioanlly will chase the neighbors car. A good ZAP might help break him of this.
Admin – Hi Tom,
The remote training feature is independant of the fence, so you can continue to use the remote training when you are at a different location to the burried wire.
Great Website with tons of helpful info! Is use of the Dog Fence appropriate for use with a puppy? If not, at what age do you recommend that dogs be introduced to the system?
ADMIN – Hi Don, I would try not to start training until they are 6 months old. You could start a bit earlier, say 4 months provided they are mentally ready (i.e. can do some training basic training confidently … sit/stay/come).
We have an older Boston Terrier who is mostly blind and 90% deaf. Is an electronic fence suitable for us? What issues will there be for training?
ADMIN – Hi Dave,
Training is of course going to be the main issue. I would use a collar that had a vibration warning instead of sound (Dogtra would be a good choice). Then be really patient and do a lot of work with the dog on training. You may want to try laying down a scent trail to help you give the dog a way another way to perceive the boundary.
We have an english setter ~ 50lbs and our housemates have a pomeranian. Would this system be suitable to both sizes of dogs?
ADMIN – Hi Ben,
The PetSafe systems are good for dogs of very different size, because the collars are mutually compatible. A good choice would be to use the PetSafe Little system (for the Pommeranian), this is really the only collar that is a good size for a dog of that size, and add a PetSafe Deluxe collar for the Setter.
We have two large dogs and one of them has become well known to the local animal athourities. He is not dangerous, very friendly but impossible to contain. He climbs up and over chain link or any other fencing with holes in it. He jumped over the 6ft wooden fence. He is very intelligent and gets bored when the kids aren’t home. He is very large, 120lbs catahoola/lab and our other dog is an English Bulldog he is not small himself. Will one of these fences work? My husband is going to give up on the dog but we really love him. His size scares people so when he runs off they call the pound.
Hi Joni,
That’s a tough situation. It seems the smarter and friendlier they are the more they escape.
If you do the training with the dogs, we are very confident it will work. The training more than anything else is really the key. Just be consistent and do it 2-3 times a day for two weeks and I think you will be very happy. We have a success rate of about 98% with in-ground systems. (Wireless systems which we do not recommend have a much lower success rate – around 50%) And if it does not work, just send it back. I don’t want to be too salesy, but we really try to make it a no lose proposition.
Since you already have a fence, just zip tie or staple the wire to the existing fence and get right into the training.
I have no experience or knowledge about these fences. Please Help! I have a 10 month old Saint Bernard puppy and a Golden Retriever. The Saint is already about 140 lbs. and very stubborn. The Golden is fine with our 4 ft. wooden picket fence, but the Saint constantly either breaks down portions of the fence by jumping on it until it falls or jumping over. He really scares the nieghbors because of his size, but the only thing you need to be scared of is his drool…lol Anyways, which fence can i use to contain him, cost effectivley, and do i have to bury this type of fence or can i attach it to existing fence? He will probably be 175-200 lbs. mature. Also, will the collar fit him? Thanks.
ADMIN – Hi Nicole,
Hi Nicole,
I would use a PetSafe Stubborn or an Innotek IUC-4100. But start on medium. I have found that while they are Stubborn, St Bernards tend to be sensitive to the correction, so you don’t need to turn it up too high. Only turn it up if you find he is not feeling it.
You do not need to bury the wire, if you have an existing fence you can zip tie it or staple it in place to the new fence. Just keep it high enough that it doesn’t get hit by the lawnmower or edger.
The neck size goes to about 23 inches on the units I mentioned.
I am getting a samoyed puppy soon. Breeders for samoyeds state that they are far too intelligent for electric fences and will endure a shock for the opportunity to chase wildlife. Gven my yard size, trees, and configuration, I would prefer this type of fencing as opposed to creating a 6′ high dog run for considerable $$$. I don’t anticipate leaving the dog out during the day, but rather, long enough to do his thing. My question is whether I should trust the advice I’ve received from samoyed breeders or try an electric fence?
ADMIN – Hi Bob
I am reluctant to contradict your breeder, they know their dogs a lot better than anyone else. But, I think most breeders that have personally tried a dog fence using a reputable company that showed them how to train the dogs are our biggest advocates.
I find Samoyeds and huskies (I know I am not supposed to lump them together, but AKC be damned they are really very similar in temperament and appearance) easy to train despite their reputation for stubbornness. They may be stubborn when you have no leverage, but are big sensitive babies and highly motivated by the correction.
There are a couple of pitfalls. (1) During the initial week of training when there is no correction they will show no interest and will show no signs of having learnt anything. Don’t fret, they are learning, they are just not reacting because they are not motivated … this will change. (2) With their thick undercoat, make sure the collar is fitted properly. Thin the hair a little with scissors, then use your fingers to make sure the collar probes are actually contacting skin. If there is no contact the dog gets no correction.
I have a shepherd/husky cross and a full malamute, both with dense woolly undercoats and coarse heavy top coats all year round. I can’t even see skin on the husky her undercoat is so dense. Are these collars really effective with these coat types. Would one system be more effective than another. The husky cross is over 75 lbs. and the malamute is still a puppy but will probably be over 75 lbs. also. We want to set up about a 4 acre perimeter. Thanks – This site has been really helpful!
ADMIN – Hi Lori,
That thick undercoat is tricky. We want to thin out the fur a bit with scissors (just a bit! – don’t shave the poor fellows). Then when you put the collar on the dog, use your fingers to dig under the probes and move all the hair out of the way. It will take a minute or two the first time, but after that it will be easy.
The Innotek 4100 or 5100 are particularly good here because they have long probes included in the box, and the collar fit feature lets you know when you have proper contact with the skin. They both do up to 25 acres.
Hi there. I have a precocious 2 year old shih-tzu/poodle mix who is an absolute escape artist and very stubborn. She digs under our chain link fence or shoots out an open gate like a bat out of you-know-where. Of course our 1 1/2 year old lab goes right out with her. Our backyard is a little less than half an acre. Which do you suggest for our different breeds and also how much do we need as far as fencing? I’m SO frustrated because I can’t turn them out in the backyard without looking out the front window to see a little blonde body zipping down the street! I’d hate to lose her or have her be hit by a car. Please help?
ADMIN – Hi Liza,
It should be pretty easy to install the system and teach them to stay in the yard if you already have a physical fence in place. You can just zip tie the boundary wire to the exsisting fence and get right into the trianing.
How big is the poodle mix and the lab? Do you want a rechargeable system? I am guessing there is a pretty big size difference, so we want a system that lets you set the correction level independently for each dog.
Three good options:
(1) Dogtra EF-3000 – rechargeable, but it has a little bigger collar
(2) SportDog SDF 100 – uses a regular disposable 9V battery, also has one of the bigger collars
(3) PetSafe Deluxe – uses a proprietary PetSafe battery, but has a smaller collar.
If the lab only escapes when the poodle mix does, perhaps you will only need a single collar to contain the precocious poodle? Sometime when there is a lead dog and a follower, you only need to contain the leader.
Hey great website and heaps of really good information. I have a 12 year old staffy that is more than happy to hang around our 6 acres most of the time. That is until there are fire crackers or a storm. In these instances she just puts her head down and runs. There have even been times when I have been with her when she has heard these loud noises and there is absolutely nothing I can do to stop her or get her to come back. So I was wondering when a dog is in this kind of panicked state would one of the electric fences work on stopping her run off?
thanks Kerry
ADMIN – Hi Kerry,
The key to getting the dog contained under those panicked states is training her, then testing her by simulating the panicked state (e.g. a confederate lets off a firecracker). If storms are an issue, you will also want to make sure the system you select has a battery backup, you don’t want the system going down when power goes down – the exact time when you need it!
But, I’m not sure you need a fence. If the panicked states are the only problem, I think you could probably train her go to a “safe spot” in your house when panicked. Talk to a good local trainer. They should be able to redirect that behavior in a couple of session. Thanks for the compliment.
I have two dachshunds, 12 & 14 lbs, one is long-haired and the other is medium-haired, but not short. Dachshunds are known for being very stubborn and also for having very strong necks. I only have 1/3 of an acre to fence in but also like the idea of setting indoor boundaries, as we now use baby-gates. I would not categorize the dogs as aggressive, but I’m sure some of my neighbors would. They are definitely very territorial and very vocal. Which system would you suggest? Also, what is a proprietary battery? If the system is not easy to use or batteries easy to change/recharge, the system will not be a good fit. Thanks… love the info on the site and my husband will appreciate the guidance in installing the system!
ADMIN – Hi Becky,
A proprietary battery is one that is made only by the manufacturer (i.e. it is not a regular battery you can get in the Supermarket, such as a AA battery of a 9V battery). Proprietary batteries are easy to change, but are usually more expensive ($4-$10 every three months or so depending on brand). They are also inconvenient because you cannot easily find them and usually will have to mail order them, something that inevitably leads to situations where the dog battery is not replaced and the collar is non-functioning. For that reason we much prefer rechargeable batteries.
Since they are both over 12lbs, I would go with the Innotek IUC-4100. It is rechargeable and has one of the smaller collars so should be find on a Dachshund. You can also use them in conjunction with the Innotek indoor zones, to keep them away from certain areas instead of the baby gates. (My child is starting to walk, can we have your baby gates!)