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	<title>Comments on: Dog Containment and Pet Containment Systems</title>
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		<title>By: Dave Schmid</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-2075</link>
		<dc:creator>Dave Schmid</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Jun 2010 01:31:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-2075</guid>
		<description>The online information manual on the Innotek UltraSmart In-ground systems says that you should &quot;never leave the collar on the dog for more than 12 consecutive hours&quot; or the dog might develop sores due to &quot;Pressure Necrosis&quot;.  Makes sense, but I hadn&#039;t really thought about needing to put on/take off the collar several times a day.   

Are there any collars/systems that do not have that problem so that we can leave the collar on all the time, or is putting the collar on prior to releasing the dog into the yard and taking it off afterwards something we just need to live with?

Can  the collar be left on all day and just taken off at night (24:00 - 08:00)?  Tks

ADMIN - Hi Dave,

Plenty of people leave the collar on the dog more often, lots of outdoor dogs wear it 24/7.  If you do leave the collar on longer, just check it frequently.  For the first week check the neck every day or two, then after that check weekly.  Not many dogs develop a sore, but it is worth checking the neck and being cautious, so that if your dog does have a reaction then you can catch it early.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The online information manual on the Innotek UltraSmart In-ground systems says that you should &#8220;never leave the collar on the dog for more than 12 consecutive hours&#8221; or the dog might develop sores due to &#8220;Pressure Necrosis&#8221;.  Makes sense, but I hadn&#8217;t really thought about needing to put on/take off the collar several times a day.   </p>
<p>Are there any collars/systems that do not have that problem so that we can leave the collar on all the time, or is putting the collar on prior to releasing the dog into the yard and taking it off afterwards something we just need to live with?</p>
<p>Can  the collar be left on all day and just taken off at night (24:00 &#8211; 08:00)?  Tks</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Dave,</p>
<p>Plenty of people leave the collar on the dog more often, lots of outdoor dogs wear it 24/7.  If you do leave the collar on longer, just check it frequently.  For the first week check the neck every day or two, then after that check weekly.  Not many dogs develop a sore, but it is worth checking the neck and being cautious, so that if your dog does have a reaction then you can catch it early.</p>
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		<title>By: mechele</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-2051</link>
		<dc:creator>mechele</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Jun 2010 16:36:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-2051</guid>
		<description>I was wondering how far from my electric horse fence does a petsafe. Fence have to be.

ADMIN - Hi Mechele,

It depends on the electric horse fence.  Sometimes you can get right next to it, other times you have to stay six feet away.  I usually test a small section before I do the installation, if you are lucky you can mount it along the same fence.  But, if you want to play it safe, you can just lay it six feet away.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was wondering how far from my electric horse fence does a petsafe. Fence have to be.</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Mechele,</p>
<p>It depends on the electric horse fence.  Sometimes you can get right next to it, other times you have to stay six feet away.  I usually test a small section before I do the installation, if you are lucky you can mount it along the same fence.  But, if you want to play it safe, you can just lay it six feet away.</p>
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		<title>By: rachael</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-2044</link>
		<dc:creator>rachael</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:11:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-2044</guid>
		<description>I don&#039;t need a boundry around my house, I just need a boundry line so that my dogs do not go up the driveway to the street, which is the only concern I have - other than the drive, i want them to have the run of the property- any suggestions on a product?

ADMIN - Hi Rachael,

If you just want to block off a small area, instead of a full containment system, consider just getting one of the outdoor pods.  They look like a fake rock and you put them down right where you want to block off the dog&#039;s access and can either operate them wirelessly to block off a 16 foot area, or you can run 150 feet of wire off them.  They are also much cheaper than a full system.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I don&#8217;t need a boundry around my house, I just need a boundry line so that my dogs do not go up the driveway to the street, which is the only concern I have &#8211; other than the drive, i want them to have the run of the property- any suggestions on a product?</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Rachael,</p>
<p>If you just want to block off a small area, instead of a full containment system, consider just getting one of the outdoor pods.  They look like a fake rock and you put them down right where you want to block off the dog&#8217;s access and can either operate them wirelessly to block off a 16 foot area, or you can run 150 feet of wire off them.  They are also much cheaper than a full system.</p>
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		<title>By: Mike</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-2011</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Jun 2010 22:28:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-2011</guid>
		<description>I currently have two petsafe recievers model # PIF-275 will this work with the Innotex Ultrasmart

ADMIN - Hi Mike,

Unfortunately, the Innotek and PetSafe systems are mutually exclusive.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I currently have two petsafe recievers model # PIF-275 will this work with the Innotex Ultrasmart</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Mike,</p>
<p>Unfortunately, the Innotek and PetSafe systems are mutually exclusive.</p>
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		<title>By: greg</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-1873</link>
		<dc:creator>greg</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 May 2010 02:06:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-1873</guid>
		<description>I need a system that will cover approx 2 acres. I do have an electric fence that goes three sides of this acreage. What is the best system to buy &amp; can I fasten the three sides of wire to the existing electric fence posts that are probably 12 feet apart? Would it be advisable to run the wire through sprinkler tube?

ADMIN - HI Greg,

Interference between electric fences and dog fences is very hit and miss.  Sometimes you can mount them side by side on the same post and nothing will happen, other times you need six feet of separation - the only way to tell for sure is to test out a small section.  

You can definitely run the wire through the sprinkler tube and it will provide a little extra protection for the wire, but if you are going to mount it on the posts there is no great need.

Let us know if you need any further assistance!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I need a system that will cover approx 2 acres. I do have an electric fence that goes three sides of this acreage. What is the best system to buy &amp; can I fasten the three sides of wire to the existing electric fence posts that are probably 12 feet apart? Would it be advisable to run the wire through sprinkler tube?</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; HI Greg,</p>
<p>Interference between electric fences and dog fences is very hit and miss.  Sometimes you can mount them side by side on the same post and nothing will happen, other times you need six feet of separation &#8211; the only way to tell for sure is to test out a small section.  </p>
<p>You can definitely run the wire through the sprinkler tube and it will provide a little extra protection for the wire, but if you are going to mount it on the posts there is no great need.</p>
<p>Let us know if you need any further assistance!</p>
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		<title>By: Jack</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-1831</link>
		<dc:creator>Jack</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 08 May 2010 23:10:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-1831</guid>
		<description>Our back yard has a six foot wood fence around the perimeter.  It does a great job of keeping our 5 year old Goldendoodle in, but our new 8 month old Aussiedoodle is another story.  She has found that she can easily dig under the fence.

I am really glad to read that I can run the wire on my fence, this will really make the job a lot easier.  As I was reading some of the other letters, I saw the one regarding running the wire through an old hose for an underwater installation.  

Since I will be attaching the wire to my fence it will be exposed to the elements not to mention my 4 and 6 year olds.   Does it make any sense to run the wire through some type of waterproof tubing for protection and then attaching both to my fence?  

Thanks, great website!

ADMIN - Hi Jack,

You could definitely increase the life span of the wire by running it through hose pipe or irrigation pipe (used for inground sprinkler systems). Personally, I would not bother, usually you will get a good 5+ years even in a really harsh environment with completely above ground wiring.  Even when you get a break it is pretty easy to find when the wire is all attached to a fence. And replacing the wire after five years is not a big deal when it attached to a fence - because the whole thing should take about an hour or so.  All that said, your way is definitely a better way to do it and can only help.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Our back yard has a six foot wood fence around the perimeter.  It does a great job of keeping our 5 year old Goldendoodle in, but our new 8 month old Aussiedoodle is another story.  She has found that she can easily dig under the fence.</p>
<p>I am really glad to read that I can run the wire on my fence, this will really make the job a lot easier.  As I was reading some of the other letters, I saw the one regarding running the wire through an old hose for an underwater installation.  </p>
<p>Since I will be attaching the wire to my fence it will be exposed to the elements not to mention my 4 and 6 year olds.   Does it make any sense to run the wire through some type of waterproof tubing for protection and then attaching both to my fence?  </p>
<p>Thanks, great website!</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Jack,</p>
<p>You could definitely increase the life span of the wire by running it through hose pipe or irrigation pipe (used for inground sprinkler systems). Personally, I would not bother, usually you will get a good 5+ years even in a really harsh environment with completely above ground wiring.  Even when you get a break it is pretty easy to find when the wire is all attached to a fence. And replacing the wire after five years is not a big deal when it attached to a fence &#8211; because the whole thing should take about an hour or so.  All that said, your way is definitely a better way to do it and can only help.</p>
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		<title>By: judy</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-1824</link>
		<dc:creator>judy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 May 2010 08:31:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-1824</guid>
		<description>hi!  I have an Invisible Fence transmitter and collar from my previous home but cannot afford the cost quoted to reinstall at my new home.  How difficult is it to move the system myself?  thanks

ADMIN - Hi Judy,

Moving an Invisible Fence system is the same as installing a DIY system.  You just need to map out a new layout for your boundary wire, install the wire, and then retrain your dogs.   </description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi!  I have an Invisible Fence transmitter and collar from my previous home but cannot afford the cost quoted to reinstall at my new home.  How difficult is it to move the system myself?  thanks</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Judy,</p>
<p>Moving an Invisible Fence system is the same as installing a DIY system.  You just need to map out a new layout for your boundary wire, install the wire, and then retrain your dogs.</p>
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		<title>By: Andrea</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-1809</link>
		<dc:creator>Andrea</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 15:51:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-1809</guid>
		<description>We currently have a privacy fence on only two sides of our yard and where it connects to our house. We were thinking about finishing off the fence, but it is really expensive, especially for only the back side and replacing a gate. My concern with the privacy fence is that it will hurt them. Also, if they get out, they won&#039;t want to come back in and get shocked again. Also, we have a lot of bunnies in our yard that the dogs are VERY interested in. My concern is that they&#039;ll see one of those bunnies, take off after it, and then be stuck outside the fence. Do you think an invisible fence is right for us?

ADMIN - Hi Andrea,

The correction is definitely unpleasant (that is after all the point), but not overly so.  If you are concerned try it on yourself.  It is a lot like the feeling you get when stepping out of a car and getting a static shock.  It is a quick intense unpleasant sensation that is very surprising, but does not linger.  The dogs should only get the correction a few times, then having learned their new boundaries they will rarely if ever get the correction. 

If a dog breaks through, it does create a dangerous situation where the dog can get stuck out.  This is why everyone places so much importance on training.  A properly trained dog will not realize that breaking through is a possibility, and will think that turning and retreating is the only way to escape the correction.  You will work with your dog in the final sessions of training on the distractions most tempting for them.   So if bunnies or a neighbors dog are a concern, we will figure out a way to test them on that distraction and teach them that no matter how excited they are - the fence rules must be obeyed.  Only once they have demonstrated that they will not cross even with temptations on the other side will you start giving them unsupervised time in the yard.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We currently have a privacy fence on only two sides of our yard and where it connects to our house. We were thinking about finishing off the fence, but it is really expensive, especially for only the back side and replacing a gate. My concern with the privacy fence is that it will hurt them. Also, if they get out, they won&#8217;t want to come back in and get shocked again. Also, we have a lot of bunnies in our yard that the dogs are VERY interested in. My concern is that they&#8217;ll see one of those bunnies, take off after it, and then be stuck outside the fence. Do you think an invisible fence is right for us?</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Andrea,</p>
<p>The correction is definitely unpleasant (that is after all the point), but not overly so.  If you are concerned try it on yourself.  It is a lot like the feeling you get when stepping out of a car and getting a static shock.  It is a quick intense unpleasant sensation that is very surprising, but does not linger.  The dogs should only get the correction a few times, then having learned their new boundaries they will rarely if ever get the correction. </p>
<p>If a dog breaks through, it does create a dangerous situation where the dog can get stuck out.  This is why everyone places so much importance on training.  A properly trained dog will not realize that breaking through is a possibility, and will think that turning and retreating is the only way to escape the correction.  You will work with your dog in the final sessions of training on the distractions most tempting for them.   So if bunnies or a neighbors dog are a concern, we will figure out a way to test them on that distraction and teach them that no matter how excited they are &#8211; the fence rules must be obeyed.  Only once they have demonstrated that they will not cross even with temptations on the other side will you start giving them unsupervised time in the yard.</p>
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		<title>By: Debbie</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-1729</link>
		<dc:creator>Debbie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:32:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-1729</guid>
		<description>My sister recommended putting an electric fence a few feet inside our wood fence that our HIGH ENERGY pointer/lab/Aussie shepherd is jumping. We want the warning beeps to happen before the fence, but want the dog to have the whole area inside the wooden fence. Do the beeps/vibration happen as the dog approaches the wire, and the correction happen only when they actually cross it? Is training harder because unless she jumps the fence, she won&#039;t get the correction? She is stubborn, so I&#039;m guessing we should get that system and start low and increase correction IF we need to. And, we want to be able to add a second collar. Thanks!

ADMIN - Hi Debbie,

The dog containment system gives the dog the warning as they approach the wire.  Most people will want to set it up so that the warning starts 5 feet away from the wire (but you can adjust this distance).  The first 1-2 feet will be warning, then the dog will get the correction for the next 4 feet on either side of the wire.  

I would attach the wire to you existing wood fence.  But, for training, you want to set it up with a fence so the correction happens before they actually reach the fence.  Otherwise, it is very difficult to train the dogs, because most dogs will not attempt to leap the fence while the owner is around, and it is also hard to control the dog when they are leaping.  Once the dog is trained, if you feel strongly about it, you can decrease the distance the signal travels so that the dog can get closer to the fence.

One word of caution. be careful not to confuse stubbornness with the amount of needed correction.  What really drives the amount of correction you need is the dog&#039;s pain tolerance.  A dog may be stubborn when you have no leverage, but will often become very passive with even a very weak correction.  Huskies are a very good example, they are generally very stubborn but are very compliant with even a very small correction.  From your breeds, I would guess you would be fine on the medium setting of a regular strength system.  </description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My sister recommended putting an electric fence a few feet inside our wood fence that our HIGH ENERGY pointer/lab/Aussie shepherd is jumping. We want the warning beeps to happen before the fence, but want the dog to have the whole area inside the wooden fence. Do the beeps/vibration happen as the dog approaches the wire, and the correction happen only when they actually cross it? Is training harder because unless she jumps the fence, she won&#8217;t get the correction? She is stubborn, so I&#8217;m guessing we should get that system and start low and increase correction IF we need to. And, we want to be able to add a second collar. Thanks!</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Debbie,</p>
<p>The dog containment system gives the dog the warning as they approach the wire.  Most people will want to set it up so that the warning starts 5 feet away from the wire (but you can adjust this distance).  The first 1-2 feet will be warning, then the dog will get the correction for the next 4 feet on either side of the wire.  </p>
<p>I would attach the wire to you existing wood fence.  But, for training, you want to set it up with a fence so the correction happens before they actually reach the fence.  Otherwise, it is very difficult to train the dogs, because most dogs will not attempt to leap the fence while the owner is around, and it is also hard to control the dog when they are leaping.  Once the dog is trained, if you feel strongly about it, you can decrease the distance the signal travels so that the dog can get closer to the fence.</p>
<p>One word of caution. be careful not to confuse stubbornness with the amount of needed correction.  What really drives the amount of correction you need is the dog&#8217;s pain tolerance.  A dog may be stubborn when you have no leverage, but will often become very passive with even a very weak correction.  Huskies are a very good example, they are generally very stubborn but are very compliant with even a very small correction.  From your breeds, I would guess you would be fine on the medium setting of a regular strength system.</p>
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		<title>By: Joe</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/main/dog-containment/comment-page-1/#comment-1698</link>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2010 14:15:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=44#comment-1698</guid>
		<description>I saw a question very similar to mine above in that I have an area of my yard that I am unable to put a fence in due to zoning restrictions.  All we really want to do is close off the gap to our dog but I notice there may be an issue with running a straight line(or even creating a  very mini loop) from fenced section to fenced section.  Is this true?  Also, will it confuse the dog is there is a physical fence in some areas and a deterrent shock in others, do we need to loop the entire yard even where there is a fence located?

Also if we only need 200 feet of coverage, is there a good system that does not also provide me with 25 acres of coverage?

Thanks,
Joe

ADMIN - Hi Joe,

If you are satisfied with the physical fence, there is no need to run the wire along the physical fence, although this may help you establish a loop.  You will just run a mini-loop from fenced section to fenced section.  (keeping the opposite sections of the loop more than 6 feet apart.

The dogs will be able to learn the difference just fine if we train them.

Unfortunately, there are no systems built for just 200 feet.  You can use the larger capacity systems fine in smaller installations - they have a switch which lets you ratchet down the signal strength for that smaller size.  The Pawz Away Outdoor Zone rock is an option for really small sections (under 150 feet of wire - since you need to loop it you effectively get around 70 feet of coverage), but i think that is going to be too small for you.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I saw a question very similar to mine above in that I have an area of my yard that I am unable to put a fence in due to zoning restrictions.  All we really want to do is close off the gap to our dog but I notice there may be an issue with running a straight line(or even creating a  very mini loop) from fenced section to fenced section.  Is this true?  Also, will it confuse the dog is there is a physical fence in some areas and a deterrent shock in others, do we need to loop the entire yard even where there is a fence located?</p>
<p>Also if we only need 200 feet of coverage, is there a good system that does not also provide me with 25 acres of coverage?</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Joe</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Joe,</p>
<p>If you are satisfied with the physical fence, there is no need to run the wire along the physical fence, although this may help you establish a loop.  You will just run a mini-loop from fenced section to fenced section.  (keeping the opposite sections of the loop more than 6 feet apart.</p>
<p>The dogs will be able to learn the difference just fine if we train them.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, there are no systems built for just 200 feet.  You can use the larger capacity systems fine in smaller installations &#8211; they have a switch which lets you ratchet down the signal strength for that smaller size.  The Pawz Away Outdoor Zone rock is an option for really small sections (under 150 feet of wire &#8211; since you need to loop it you effectively get around 70 feet of coverage), but i think that is going to be too small for you.</p>
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