Twisted Wire

Twisted wire is simply two regular wires twisted together. Having two wires so close together causes the signals coming out of each wire to cancel each other out and creates a dead-zone where the dog can walk over safely without getting the warning or the correction. But, the twisted wire can only be used in certain situations. The main use for twisted wire is to connect the main boundary loop to the control box. You can also use the twisted wire to connect one loop to another loop. But, you absolutely cannot use the twisted wire as part of the main loop. The video below shows you how to use twisted wire and how you can make your own.

Here is an example to help you understand the use of twisted wire.

Imagine you had a boundary going around your entire property, with the base station inside your home. You have everything connected and test to make sure everything works fine, but the layout is not ideal.
You would have two strands of wire coming into the base station from the perimeter. This would be inconvenient because the dog could not cross the section of the wire.
Cut the boundary wire where it turns in from the perimeter toward the house and disconnect the wire from the control box. (If you bought the pre-twisted you would replace this section with the pre-twisted wire, so skip straight to step 5 where we connect up the twisted wire.) The rest of us will need to twist the wire ourselves.
Twist the two wires together, so that there is about one twist per inch. Err toward having more twists rather than less. The easiest way to twist the wires is to attach them to an electric drill and let the drill do the twisting for you.
Now we splice the twisted wire back into the boundary loop on one side, and re-connect the twisted wire to the control box on the other side.
Voila! Your dog can now safely cross over the twisted section without hearing the warning beep or getting the correction.
If you found this information useful, consider purchasing your dog fence from us. We have great after sales service (check out our testimonials). Having us a phone call away (1-888-9-DOG-DIY) if you run into problems makes containment easy.
Stu & the Dog Fence DIY Team

{ 81 comments… read them below or add one }

JonB December 17, 2014 at 4:20 pm

I need to repair about 50 feet of in-ground wire. I have enough stranded wire (e.g. Not solid core). Will this work or attenuate the signal like twisting two solid core wires?

ADMIN – Hi Jon. We recommend using solid wire with solid wire and stranded wire with stranded wire. However, it is OK to make a repair using a splice to twist/wrap the stranded end to the solid end together. You would not want to physically wrap two wires around each other like you do when you make your own twisted wire using 10-12 twists per foot.

Bruce August 16, 2014 at 8:59 am

Re twisted wire, I have nearly a full roll left over from install and need to expand My main loop, any reason why I couldn’t splice both wires from twisted loop to the single wire at both ends and use it that way? Wouldn’t it just act like a single wire? I hate to waste it and can’t really untwist 50′. Thank you!

ADMIN – Hi Bruce, yes you can definitely splice the twisted wire in. The fence transmitter will see it as a single wire.

Tracii August 14, 2014 at 1:43 pm

Hi there, We are thinking of getting a pet fence (again) and are wondering if old wire still in the ground will affect a new system? We know the neighbors have an old system underground too. Can old wires pose a problem? Also the hydro, phone & cable wires run under ground to the house. We are on 4 acres so these wires are at least 300 ft long from road to house. Any pre-info before investing in a system (again) would be helpful. Thanks!

ADMIN – Hi Tracii, if the old dog fence wire is still intact, you can use any new dog fence with it. If you are installing new wire, as long as the old dog fence wire is not connected to anything, it will not affect the new wire. Your neighbor’s dog fence wire will only be a problem if it is active and is closer than 15 feet to your wire.

Jamie Foss July 15, 2014 at 8:28 am

Hi, I’ve purchased a Pet Safe yard max system to supplement the current wood and chain-link fence that I currently have. Unfortunately it’s only about 3 to 4 ft high. If I utilize the prescribed method of starting at one point and looping back to the same point while maintaining 3 feet between the wires in fence, will they cancel or interfere? The manual says to maintain a minimum of 5 ft between. Thanks!

ADMIN – Hi Jamie, as the dog fence wires come together they will decrease the signal. However, 3-4 feet will work decently for what you are trying to create.

Pete June 2, 2014 at 5:43 pm

I purchased 14 gauge single strand wire with enough to use for twisted wire as well, which requires about 200 feet to the house. The 14 gauge is a bit clunky to twist, so can I zip tie to electrical tape the twists as I perform them. Will take awhile, but will hold it nicely. Thank you!

ADMIN – Hi Pete, it can be hard to work with. I recommend using a pair of needle nose pliers for bending the wire and creating splices. You will want to use grease capsules for properly waterproofing the splice. It needs to be completely waterproof so that there is no risk of signal grounding out.

John A April 16, 2014 at 5:25 pm

My house sits right in the middle of 4 acres. I would like to allow my two labs to run the entire property. I have an electric gate at the end of the driveway, can I simply splice into the gate lighting and leave the control box outside to keep from installing +100′ of twisted wire to get back to the house?

ADMIN – Hi John, you can install your transmitter at the end of the driveway as long as you install it in a waterproof housing. That definitely would be save you lots of work.

christina April 13, 2014 at 3:12 pm

I have installed the petsafe in ground fence. I followed your instructions for twisting the wires to cancel the signal, only the signal is not cancelled. I am so frustrated and I can’t figure this thing out, please help as the petsafe people are not much help.

ADMIN – Hi Christina, there may be another issue preventing the fence from functioning properly. We will contact you directly concerning next steps.

Danny February 20, 2014 at 11:01 pm

Thank you.! I was planning to install a elec.. fence.while surfing I fell onto your sight. Good Information.. I was not aware on the rule on twisted wires.. I have two areas my dogs have to cross., One to get into the yard and another to allow access to their Pit. Where they do their business.. the yard is approx. 1/4 acre. I have two Rottie’s what do you suggest I do to create access to the Pit?I was going to use twisted wire in both area’s
Thank you
Danny

Hans January 18, 2014 at 8:59 pm

Hello,
I’ve recently installed an old Petsafe RF104 transmitter that my neighbor lent me and we’re having problems with it. The unit worked fine for him, so I’m thinking it’s an issue with my installation. We have about 1300′ of 20 gauge solid core running the perimeter of our 2 acre lot. It’s buried about 6 inches down, running along the chain link fence that encloses the lot. I have about an 80′ run of twisted pair that connects to the transmitter, which is in our garage. The problem is the collar is beeping/shocking all over the yard, no matter how low I set the range on the receiver. I’ve metered the loop and I have continuity. The loop alarm doesn’t go off on the transmitter. The weirdest part is I tested it before I buried the loop and it worked exactly as it should, triggering about 3′ away. The collar is a new unit purchased off ebay. Any ideas?

ADMIN – Hi Hans, your system is picking up interference from a utility cable. The interference floods the yard and home with signal which causes the collar to activate constantly. I would review the layout. Make sure to install the wall transmitter 10 feet from all appliances and breaker panels. Cross of utility lines at a perpendicular angle and run the boundary wire 6 to 10 feet away from utility lines when running parallel to them. This should prevent interference.

Kim January 9, 2014 at 10:32 am

We have a self laid invisible fence. Our neighbors also had one, but recently had a professional invisible fence put in. Now, there are hot spots in our house and our dogs are freaked out. Could their recent installation be “bleeding signal” over to our fence? If so, what can we do about it?

ADMIN – Hi Kim, it could be causing your fence signal to amplify similar to what a neighboring utility cable would do. You can try dialing down the boundary radius. The other option is have the neighbor’s installer to come out and try to adjust their settings.

Wendy Hebert January 7, 2014 at 7:24 pm

We just adopted a German shepherd mix who is about 8 months old. She is a digger and has started to dig holes around the fence. I’m considering an electric fence to solve this issue and I’ve just started looking online today. I’m so confused with which one to go with (looking at the Petsafe YardMax) or if my husband and I can do the installation ourselves. He’s definitely not the handiest man and we’re both not getting any younger. We have a wooden fence and I would probably attach to the fence instead of burying it. From your installation pictures it looks like it’s more difficult to do only the back yard. Should we use the backyard layout where the wire is run up on the eaves? Would the eaves be high enough? One problem we have is the only plug is at the back door. Her food and water bowls are to the left of the plug. Do we just do the twisted wire from the eaves down to the plug? Any help would be appreciated. I’m afraid if we don’t do something soon she’ll get out of the yard and we live by a major highway which would mean instant death. Thanks.

ADMIN – Hi Wendy, you will need to suspend the wire 10 to 12 feet high along the back on the home to create enough clearance. Yes, you can come out of the transmitter with twisted wire which would run up to the eaves of the roof where the wire would then split left and right.

Kasey October 29, 2013 at 5:20 am

Hi I have purchased the stubborn wire fence I ve put it around the yard in a loop but the space between the house and the fence on the side of the yard is too close and sets the collars off so they can’t pass through without getting zapped. If i put the wire up high would this allow the dogs to walk safely in this area? As this part of my yard is fenced well and they can’t get out at this particular area.

ADMIN – Hi Kasey, Yes, if you suspend the wire high enough they will be able to pass. The height needed is the signal radius + the height of the collars on the dogs + 2-3 feet buffer space.

Nancy August 18, 2013 at 1:41 pm

I have an PetSafe Ultrsmart system and have located and fixed a broken boundary wire using an RF choke and am radio. I get a strong signal all around the boundary but the broken boundary wire alarm is still blinking. I also get a signal using the choke and the am radio over the twisted wire. I dug it up and it looks fine. Any idea what the problem is?

ADMIN – Hi Nancy, With a squawking transmitter and signal transmission on the twisted pair, it appears that you most likely have two problems: 1) there is another break and 2) the signal is being amplified from a close utility or electrical device or breaker. If you were not receiving interference, you would not be getting the confusing signal with the break. try a short loop test first to make sure the transmitter and collar operate correctly. Then you will want to look for the interference and solve it by either moving the boundary wire, adjusting the signal radius down, or both. You will need to continue looking for the additional break as well.

tim July 13, 2013 at 10:07 pm

Hi, I have a Pet Safe in ground fence. We have about 3.5 acres that the dogs run on. About 10-12 feet from the fence I have a shop that is just a metal pole barn. I have a doggie door on the side of the shop for the dogs to use to get inside from the weather. The hole for the doggie door for some reason picks up the frequency of the fence and shocks the dogs. Do you know what might be causing this or how to fix it?

ADMIN – Hi Tim,

I am guessing that your shop is made of sheet metal. Where you have sheet metal running close by and parallel to the boundary wire, the signal can get induced in the metal.

The solution is to move the line so it is further from the building, angle the boundary line so it is less parallel, or reduce the boundary width at the base station.

Aimee Johnson May 19, 2013 at 1:17 am

We have purchased stubburn dog in-gound fence. We have about 1000 ft of yard for our dog, almost all of it is sheep wire on wooden posts, however one section is a sheet metal privacy fence. We have it connected up correctly, but when we do the test it will only shock once, then nothing more. Wait another day and it will shock once more, then nothing. There are no breaks in the wire, is it because we sheet metal on one part? Thanks so much!

ADMIN – Hi Aimee,

I don’t think it has anything to do with the sheet metal. My guess is that when you test it, you are spending more than 30 seconds in the correction field, and you are activating the safety time-out on the collar. This is intended to stop the collar over-stimulating a dog that freezes or gets stuck in the field, and is a safety feature found in all good collars. When the collar times-out, it will not reactivate unless you spend a few minutes outside the correction field.

Unfortunately, people often accidentally trigger the safety time-out when testing the fence. The way to avoid this, is when testing to only trigger the correction for 5-10 seconds at a time.

Joe April 28, 2013 at 3:25 pm

For ease of finding a solution, is there something I can insulate the wire with and block the signal right by the door? Otherwise I’ll have to loop a wire around the other side of the house and make the connection

ADMIN – Hi Joe,

There isn’t any way to shield the wire. so that it will block the signal. I presume you are doing a backyard-only installation. The easiest way to run the wire along the back of the house is to elevate the wire and run it through the gutter. The wire being high up in the air will allow the dog to pass underneath without triggering the collar.

As you mentioned there are other options such as running the wire around the front of the house. You can see more backyard-only options in our Installation –> Layouts page.

Joe April 28, 2013 at 10:46 am

I just installed my wire for a backyard perimeter only. Wires from the transmitter go out the front garage, around the side of the house, then split where I have single wire on the perimeter and twisted wire along the length of the back of the house. It’s still sending a signal where I have the twisted wire on the back of the house (i.e. right over the gap out the back door). I don’t think 50% of the total length of wire is twisted, but is that likely the case?

ADMIN – Hi Joe,

The twisted wire does not work when it is part of the loop – it cannot be used as a substitute for a section of wire. It only works when it is used to connect the loop to the transmitter. A quick way to check your wiring, is to make sure every connection is one-to-one. You should not have any places where three or more wires join together, nor any lose ends that do not connect to anything.

Michelle April 24, 2013 at 1:05 pm

We have about 200 feet to go from the boundary wire to the house. Is there a limit on far the twisted pair can be used?

ADMIN – Hi Michelle,

You can safely run 200 feet of twisted wire from your house to the start of your boundary loop. The only limitation on the twisted wire is that it is not more than 50% of the total length of the wire in your boundary loop.

Leslie April 20, 2013 at 1:27 pm

Hi, we have an 8-year old professional installation (Invisible Fence) that we’ve not used in a few years. The perimeter is no longer intact in a couple places, and the transmitter may not be working either. Rather than hiring that firm to repair and replace everything, I’ve been looking into one of your DIY fences instead.

We want to contain our dog to our small front and back yards, but have a physical fence on three sides of the back yard (both sides and the back of the yard).

Invisible Fence encircled the front yard, and connected each end of that loop to one of two metal rods pounded about 6 feet into the ground (to contact groundwater); one rod located on each side of the backyard where the side fences begin. Then they used a twisted loop from the rod on one side to the transmitter. The system worked fine, the electrical signal was maintained through groundwater as intended.

I’d like to use your materials and replace the old wire, connecting to those buried steel rods. Do you think it will work as it did before?

ADMIN – Hi Leslie,

Yes, that would work. You can ‘complete the loop’ using those metal stakes if the conditions are damp enough (and it sounds like you have high groundwater).

Trent April 2, 2013 at 12:54 pm

I have a very small area in my mulch that I want to keep my dogs out of. The area is only about 10 feet long and 3 feet wide. I’m concerned that the area I want to protect will create a much bigger beeping/shock zone then the 3 feet area. I’m also concerned that the 2 wires that are not twisted have to run so close together that they may cancel each other out. I really can’t afford to have the beeping/shock zone come out farther then 3 feet on either side or it will block the sidewalk that my dogs use to get in and out of the garage through the doggy door. Am I correct in my thinking and do you have any suggestions?

ADMIN – Hi Trent,

If you just want to block off a small area, the outdoor pods would be a better choice than than a full dog containment system. These wireless pods cleverly disguised as rocks can be used to block off small areas, either using a small boundary loop, or wirelessly.

If you use a containment system, you can run the wires closer together and turn down the boundary width dial so that you are only covering the 10 x 3 area.

Laura White March 8, 2013 at 12:51 am

Hello! I am trying to install a fence. The transmitter is right beside a door, but I want my dog to be able to cross through that door line. Is there any way to cancel the signal for that 2 feet after it leaves the house (other than a complete double loop)?

ADMIN – Hi Laura,

Yes you can create a non-correction link from the transmitter to where you want the real loop to start. You would run twisted wire (two regular wires, twisted together) out the door from the transmitter until you get to the point where you want the real boundary loop to begin. To see an example of this type of layout, go to the Installation –> Layouts –> Perimeter Layout.

Bill December 5, 2012 at 6:04 pm

Will the signal be canceled if the wire is twisted w/ 3 wires? Due to a certain situation this is the only way I can run the wire.

ADMIN – Hi Bill,

The signal is NOT canceled if you twist three wires together. There is only cancellation if you run 2 wires together.

Mike November 7, 2012 at 5:42 pm

I have a chicken wire fencing running along the bottom of my wood fence. If I place the wire along the bottom of the wood fence next to the chicken wire fence, will that interfere with the signal?

Admin- Hi Mike,

The chicken wire will note affect the dog fence signal. You can either attach the boundary wire to the chicken wire or bury the boundary wire at the base of the chicken wire.

kim June 24, 2012 at 11:43 am

I have a Canine Company Invisible Fence, on our property, for our two Labs. It comes out of our house and surrounds a couple of acres. Everything works great except the dogs have been helping themselves to the veggies in my garden in the middle of the property, and, they go into the koi pond off our deck. I figure I can loop the veggie garden and then double wire it back and splice it to the closest wire that surrounds our property. The gardens become a “protected island” within the i-fenced yard. The koi pond is off our deck, connected to the side our house. It is not far from where the main wire goes to the transmitter. The dogs use the door onto the deck to go outside. I figure I can make a similar loop to the veggie garden having some of the wire go into the pond (underwater) and splice into another portion of the perimeter wire (double looped where they need access). Is this possible? What size wire do I need to use? Thanks!!

Admin- Hi Kim,
1) You can splice twisted wire into the closest outside boundary wire than lead it to the garden areas to create a boundary loop inside the main loop. This setup will be identical to our exclusion zones layout (see the layout under the dog fence installations tab).
2) You will want to use the same gauge of wire that was used by the Canine Company for the installation. If you switch gauges, it could confuse the transmitter.

Dave June 8, 2012 at 8:54 am

I have a question in the need for twisted wire. I have a quite a long run from my transmitter to some flower beds, making my own twisted wire is hard because of the long distance. I would like to simply tie wrap the wires together instead of twisting them. It seems this would accomplish the same thing. Would this work?

Thanks
Dave

Admin- Hi Dave,
Simply laying the wire next to each other or tie wrapping the wire together will not create a full cancellation. The signals projecting off of the wire will only deduce the signal. Unfortunately for a full cancellation, you will need to twisted the wire. However, we do sale the twisted wire in 100 feet sections to ease the install.

Jimmy May 1, 2012 at 6:15 pm

Hello, I just purchased a petsafe stubborn dog underground fence. The dvd that came with it said the maximum length of twisted wire that can be used is 50′. I need to run it 100′ to reach my garage, will this work?

Admin- Hi Jimmy,

You can use as much twisted wire as you need. There is no maximum length.

Dwight April 23, 2012 at 10:09 pm

I have an invisible fence 700 system and no matter how I set the course setting, the collar beeps at about 3′ away and zaps at the same distance. Unless I turn it all the way down it signals between w and 3′ — all the way down it does go to about 5-6″. I thought it would produce a signal over 10′ if turned up higher. Could there be some setting on the collar that changes this behavior? Do I need to have the collar tested by a dealer perhaps?

Admin- Hi Dwight,

It sounds like your boundary wire might be receiving some interferences that is reducing the signal strength. The best way to find out will be to set-up a test loop and test the collar. If the same problems occurs, than the transmitter might be going out.

Rog March 29, 2012 at 2:46 pm

I am having trouble with a boundary at one door. I want to install a rectangular loop system to enclose the backyard, with one side of loop along the house. Ideally this side would not be energized, but I don’t want to run a double loop around the rest of the yard. Energizing the loop next to the house is not a problem except at the ground level door. If I go up and over the door, then the dog could get a warning if she entered my office (on the second floor directly above the door) where she normally spends a lot of time. If I go under this door then this is blocked as an egress point. What I need is way to cancel the energizing for this local area.

You seem to indicate that no change of wire, placing the boundary wire in any type of conduit, or any method will provide a null boundary. There are only two ways to do this: twisted wire or elevation of the boundary wire out of range. Is this right? Nothing else?

ADMIN – Hi Rog,

Afraid there is no good way of locally deactivating or shielding the boundary wire. Your options are essentially (1) doing the double loop around the other three sides, (2) going up above – it sounds like in your case you might need to go above the second floor to avoid running a line near the floor of your office, (3) going deep underground (nearly always impractical), or (4) running the wire tight around the front of the house.

Kevin March 23, 2012 at 12:49 pm

Is there any secret to splicing two strands of twisted wire together, or is it as simple as just connecting the two.

ADMIN – Hi Kevin,

With the twisted wire. you will have two free wires on each end. Each twisted wire will splice to one boundary wire. You should not be splicing the two strands of twisted wire together.

jerry March 23, 2012 at 12:05 am

Is it okay to mount the transmitter in a carport its connected to the house but open to the climate changes in western KY? Or does the transmitter need to be in a temperature controlled environment? Is there anything else the the iuc 4100 kit that i will need to purchase i have a little under a acre lot i want the dog to be able to have 360 degree range.

ADMIN – Hi Jerry,

You can indeed place the transmitter in a carport. As long as the transmitter is protected from moisture it will be ok. The transmitter is not sensitive to heat and cold.

Jim March 19, 2012 at 10:45 am

What WOULD block a signal from a wire in a double-loop situation?
I see a lot of questions about pavement, PVC, concrete, metal pipe, but none seem to block the signal.

I am trying to fence in just one side of my yard with an electric fence. Unfortunately, leaving 6 feet between the wires of a double loop is not desirable (I could do it if there was no other option).

I’d like to bury one wire many feet deep, then have the wire acting as the boundary buried just a few inches. A quick google search showed putting one wire through a hose with metal reinforcing would block the signal. Thoughts? Anyway to block the signal?

ADMIN – Hi Jim,

We have never found a consistent way to block the signal using a barrier. The metal reinforced hose doesn’t work very well – it can weaken the signal but is inconsistent. Your idea of using several feet of ground would work, but the wire would need to be 3-4 feet deep which is impractical for most people.

If you email us a layout of the yard, we may have some wiring alternatives to the double loop that would get you the setup you are after.

Scott March 18, 2012 at 6:28 pm

Just brainstorming here. In making an invisible fence around a property that is bordered by a lake, creek, etc. and we want the dog to have access to this one side of the property…would it work to loop around the property as normal; then at the ‘open’ side(water) would it work to use 18g three lead Romex as follows: splice the right side of the loop to the white Romex wire, splice the green and black Romex leads together, splice the left white and green wires together , and lastly , splice the left loop to the left black wire. This should will create a continuous loop that in essence acts like a twisted wire on one side of the property. Don’t know if it works…..just asking and trying to brainstorm for a simple solution. Thanks for any feed back.

ADMIN – Hi Scott,

Unfortunately, I don’t think that would work. If I understand you correctly, with one side of the loop connected to the white, and the other side connected to the black, there would be not complete circuit between the two sides of the loop

Geoff March 15, 2012 at 7:50 pm

Hi, we have a dog run on the side yard, but because it runs along the perimeter of the house I’m going to have to run the boundary wire right alongside it. Can I use twisted wire alongside the dog run so that the dogs can be in the run without constantly being corrected by the system?? Thanks in advance. Geoff

ADMIN – Hi Geoff,

You can’t use twisted wire as part of the perimeter – if you do it will act like regular wire and trigger the collar. To create a dead zone along the dog run, your best bet would be to elevate the wire, perhaps along the roof line of the house so that height of the wire above ground is sufficient to avoid the wire triggering the collars that are on the dogs down on ground level.

Glen March 10, 2012 at 9:26 am

I have a cow pasture I would like my dog to be able to roam. Can the dogs fence wire be run alongside the cow pasture electric fence wire ( same fence posts, etc ) , or must they be separated?

ADMIN – Hi Glen,

The dog fence wire can run right alongside a field electric fence. There is no need to run the two seperately.

Mike February 23, 2012 at 6:25 pm

When plan to run boundary wire vertically over around the backyard sliding door. How high the boundary wire needs to run up vertically along the sliding door in order to have our dog get access into the backyard without getting shocks warning? The sliding door is about 9ft tall. We have the IUC 4100. Thanks. Mike

ADMIN – Hi Mike,

The vertical clearance over the dog’s head that you need depends on how wide you set the boundary width dial. If you set the system to a wide boudnary, you need more clearance. Assuming a typical boundary of 5 feet wide, then you would want 8 feet of clearance over the dogs head (5 feet + 3 feet of safety buffer).

With your 9 foot sliding door, if you set the boundary width to 4 feet wide, you should be in good shape.

Ron Parks January 26, 2012 at 5:55 pm

Most of the instructions show adding a splice on each wire separating the twisted portion going to the box inside from the non-twisted wire that forms the boundary loop. What is the purpose in using a splice at this point? Why not just twist the wire and use a non-conducting piece of material to keep the twist in place. Thanks for your help.

ADMIN – Hi Ron,

You don’t need to add a splice when you transition to the twisted section. As you suggest, you can just get the two regular boundary wires and start twisting them at the point where they come together. (You usually don’t need anything to hold the twist in place, the stiffness of the wire usually does the job – although it would not hurt).

The reason we show a splice is that most people purchase the twisted wire separately. And where they twist the wire themselves, it is easier to twist the wire in your home or workshop than to twist it on site. But, your way will work identically.

Jen January 11, 2012 at 8:01 am

We have a small city lot with a six foot tall wood fence. I would guess 20 x 30 feet We would like to get a invisible fence to contain an English pointer foster dog that could be a fence climber or jumper. Is there a way to arrange the wire so there is no correction until the dog is right at the fence?

ADMIN – Hi Jen,

You can run the wire along the top of the fence, then adjust the boundary width control dial so the correction does not reach all the way down the fence. That way the dog will only get the correction when they are climbing the fence and not while they are still on the ground.

I would however encourage you to have a few feet of buffer between the dog and the fence, particularly when you do the training. Once the dog has a full head of steam and is sailing over the fence, even if they get the correction there is nothing that they can do to change course. It is better if they get the correction a few feet before the fence.

Matthew December 4, 2011 at 8:08 pm

Hi, I have the IUC-5100. I have one big loop, covering about 2 acres, with my house (and the transmitter) in the middle. My twisted wire runs out from the transmitter about 70 feet before it connects to the loop. Recently, I noticed that the twisted wire is activating the collar when it gets within a couple of feet! So my poor dog is getting shocked when she goes across one part of the yard. I played with my transmitter, and changed the containment area from “large” to “small” and that seemed to fix it.
However, I’m not good at leaving well enough alone. I wanted to add a second loop to go around a flowerbed, so I ran all that wire and hooked it in. After I did that, my twisted wire was activating the collar again. I tried adjusting containment area and field size, but it still did it. So I took the new loop out and put it back like it was before, and now it still activates the collar. I replaced part of the twisted wire that I suspected might be damaged, but to no avail. My twisted wire is a combination of Innotek wire and twisted wire from Lowe’s that I twisted tighter with my drill. It’s all pretty twisted, more than 1 twist/inch.
Any ideas why my twisted wire might be activating the collar?

ADMIN – Hi Mathew,

Email use a diagram of the wiring layout. If the twisted wire is triggering the collar, most likely it is to do with the wiring being incorrect.

Joanna Grant November 25, 2011 at 2:04 pm

My question is about twisted wire. Instead of splicing in twisted wire, I ran the boundary wire into the location where I am housing the transmitter. I then twisted the same wire around itsel back out to the boundary placement and continued on. This was rather cumbersome to do. My now twisted wire has some kinks and spots where the twist frequency isn’t as dense as the video recommended. Also, I went around sharp corners when I attached the twisted wire. When I hooked up the system, the alarm sounded (I did a short loop test and the transmitter is working fine). Could the kinks and gaps be causing the alarm to go off?

ADMIN – Hi Joanna,

The kinks and gaps in the twisting will not cause the transmitter to register a break. Gaps and kinds may stop the twisted wire cancelling out the signal in the area of the gaps – but will not cause a wire break alarm. The only thing that will cause the transmitter to register a break is a discontinuity in the loop (a wire break or non-continuous layout).

I couldn’t quite picture your layout, but I presume you have a big loop (if you have something else, email me a diagram) with the two wires coming in twisted together and going into the transmitter box). You could also be getting the wire break alarm if there is something funky going on with your layout (i.e. if it does not form a continuous circuit starting and ending at the control box).

sharon November 7, 2011 at 10:41 am

With regards to the 2 adjoining properties: I’ve been doing more thinking :) imagine two pies with a slice out of each. the missing slice parts are facing each other, 6 ft apart. Is it possible to run 2 twisted wires sets from each transmitter out in a V and have the loop start from the end of one twist and end at the other. does that constitue a continuous loop?

ADMIN – Hi Sharon,

I’m not sure I follow your layout. One way to understand the twisted wire is think of the boundary loop like a rubber band. It is in a complete loop. If you stretch it flat and twist it halfway up, you’ll see that the untwisted section of the rubber band makes a loop. However, the rubber band is still in one loop. This is how twisted wire in the boundary loop works.

sharon November 6, 2011 at 6:02 pm

my neighbor and I each have Invisable Fence transmitters and I have the wire already run. We are trying to figure out a way to connect our 2 yards so that our dogs can have free range between the 2 properties without having to do a double back on the loops. (2 acre lots, thats alot of expensive wire!) Can we run twisted wire from each house to a point close to each other then start the 2 individual loops from that point? Also, what would the minimum width of a no-correction pathway have to be? 15-20 ft? Thank you

ADMIN – Hi Sharon,

The only way you can accomplish this is with one loop that encloses both properties.

Thomas Epting October 6, 2011 at 2:56 pm

My dog jumps our fence like it is nothing. We are looking at using a invisible fence not only to keep him in a particular part of the yard, because we would like to use our carport (having a baby), but also to keep him from scaling the fence. Do these systems work for that?

Thanks for all the useful information.

ADMIN – Hi Thomas,

Yes. These systems work very well and they work extremely well when combining them with a natural fence. The wire is simply an antenna transmitting a radio frequency in a radius around the wire. If you attach the wire halfway up the fence, your dog will not be able to jump over or dig under it. Also, you will be able to keep them back from the fence several feet.

Diane October 2, 2011 at 5:00 pm

Is it absolutely necessary to use twisted wire? The way we want to do it there is no need to for the dog to cross where the wire will connect to the receiver so is the twisted wire used just so the dog can cross the wire safely or is it necessary for the system to work properly? We would be going into the basement on the side of the house where our dog would have no access, we are simply going up the side of the house to complete the loop. Our yard is fenced on 3 sides so we need to close off the driveway and hopefully keep the dog from trying to dig under where there is chain link fence. Any advice greatly appreciated…

ADMIN – Hi Diane,

There is no need to use twisted wire. The only reason to use the twisted wire is if it is convenient in creating a layout. The system will work perfectly without the twisted wire.

Casey August 22, 2011 at 11:44 am

Hi i was wondering how the wire and fence strength holds up in areas where there is a lot of snow.. will that affect the signal for my dog. I’m looking at getting the sport dog system to encircle the entire house and garage and put the control box in a warm area. It would be about 3 to 4 acres total… thanks.

oh and one more question.. .what is the length of twisted wire I can use to get the main loop away from the house… ex… from the power box in the house to the main loop… is there a length limit? Casey

ADMIN – Hi Casey,

As the snow accumulates you need to turn up the boundary width at the base station so that the signal can penetrate the snow. It works fine up to about 1 foot of snow, then gets patchy depending on the strength of the transmitter and the type of snow (packed vs. loose). The SportDog is a good choice, with a 100 acre capacity, it has plenty of power in reserve so you can turn it up when you need to in order to get through the snow.

There is no limit on the amount of twisted wire you can use in your containment system layout.

Kim August 6, 2011 at 12:37 am

When you talk about using “twisted wire”, I thought you just meant to twist the wire together. However, I see that you sell another wire that is called “twisted wire”. Do I use a different wire called “twisted wire” or do I simply twist the wires together? Also, do the systems come with this special pre-twisted wire that you sell? Thanks

Admin- Hi Kim,
The twisted wire is the same wire that will be installed in your boundary. It is simply two boundary wires twisted together. Please view our instructional video about twisted wire.
http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/twisted-wire/

reggie July 15, 2011 at 9:00 pm

i have a side entry driveway how can i run the wire under the driveway to allow the dog to get to the otyer side of the yard?

ADMIN – Hi Reggie,

The most common way to get across the driveway is to cut a shallow slot with a circular saw, lay the wire in the slot, then seal it in place with caulk. See our Installation –> Driveways section for more details and other methods.

Gary June 26, 2011 at 10:23 am

Can I use a twisted pair within a cat5 wire that is already running in conduit under the driveway from the garage to the outside loop?

ADMIN – Hi Gary,

As long as you’re running twisted wire through the conduit and not single boundary wire, you’ll be fine. The twisted pair does not transmit a radio frequency, so there’s no interference problems.

Kim Hood June 25, 2011 at 11:45 am

I am buying the Pet Safe Little Dog fencing system for my 2 Yorkies 6# & 11#s. First they are both quit old 14 and 16 yrs old, but are both still very active. I’ve been luck so far… First question is due to their age the signal won’t hurt them in any way will it? Second question is I want to fence just the backyard (where their doggie door is) without having to double back or twist the wires – am I on the right track with the following? I want to fence in the back yard only so I want to start at the middle of one side of the house going down the side of the house from a window about 10-12 feet off the ground then come away from the house about 4 feet to cross a sidewalk and then go around the backyard to the middle of the other side of the house and then go up that side of the house and over the roof then back down the original side of the house into the window where the beginning wire and transmitter are. I wouldn’t have to twist any wires would I since they are both going to meet at the same window where the transmitter is. Third question is – Will going over the roof and up/down the outside of the house allow the signal to come into the inside of the house if they have their collars on inside?

I will wait to hear back from you before I begin my installation. Thanks for your awesome support!!

Kim

Admin-Hi Kim,

1) No, you will be able to set the correction level on the collar to fit each Yorkies needs.
2) It sounds like your layout plan will be great. Also, please view our back yard only diagrams.
Back yard only- http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/#backyard
3) There is a chance that the signal may come into the house. Once you have the system installed. You will need to take a collar and provided tester around the house where you might receive the signal to test before you apply the collars to the dogs.

Martha Clark June 7, 2011 at 12:05 pm

In illustration #4 why can’t you simply twist the wires entering the house without cutting (and twisting) them?

ADMIN – Hi Martha,

Yes, you can. These illustrations on this page are not intended to display installation technique as much as to clear up the twisted wire concept. The illustration demonstrates that a connected loop without twisted wire is actually the same as a loop with twisted wire.

Alan Williams June 7, 2011 at 12:58 am

I am planning a wired system which will start in my garage and then surround a field I have to the left of the garage. I understand I can use a twisted pair to get from the garage to the field and then surround the field with the buried wire. How do I leave an opening at the gate to the field so that I can bring the dog in and out without getting a shock? Thanks, Alan

ADMIN – Hi Alan,

The only ways to create a gap in the dog fence boundary is to raise the wire high up above the dog’s head or bury it (very) deep below the dog’s head. Otherwise, to take the dog in an out of the field, you need to take off the collar before they exit.

Michael May 18, 2011 at 10:53 am

I’ve purchased an Innotek 5100 invisible fence system and I have a question . Installation calls for attaching the twisted wire to the control unit . Can I attach the regular wire to the control unit ? I plan on bringing it through the wall of my garage . The dogs will have access to the fenced area through a doggie door and I will run the wire along the roof eave of the house above the door so there will be unencumbered access for the dogs through the doggie door . So again , my question is can I attach the regular wire directly to the control unit ? Thank you

ADMIN – Absolutely. There is no need to use the twisted wire if you don’t need it. You can connect the regular wire directly ot the transmitter box.

Terri May 14, 2011 at 8:44 pm

We love your website…very informative! We are building a house on a lot that is bordered in the back by a creek. Our dog loves to play in the creek but we want to contain him to our property and allow him the ability to get his energy out by running free. Are there any options for crossing the creek or include the creek inside of our electronic dog fence? Thank you!

ADMIN – Hi Terri,

Thanks for the compliment. You can run the wire through the water without any problems, or lay it on any convenient fallen branches crossing the creek. If you wanted the dog to have access to the creek, then you woudl run the wire across the creek and establish a border on the far side of the creek.

PS – often when people enclose a creek they change the layout within a couple of months to stop giving the dogs free access. The dogs end up constantly in the water (especially labs), and then they constantly track mud into the house. Just something to keep in mind.

Perry May 12, 2011 at 5:44 pm

I have found your website very useful and I purchased the Innotek IUC-4100 from your site about a month ago. I installed the fence fine and it is up and working. I also purchased the twisted wire at the same time so I wouldn’t have to worry about trying to twist it myself.

However, the twisted wire is not working as it should. I noticed that everytime the dog crossed the twisted wire it was beeping. So I checked the collar myself and it is giving a correction whenever the collar passes over the twisted wire just like crossing over any normal boundary. If I had twisted it myself, I would think I didn’t do a good enough job, but I have spliced the boundary wire to the “white twisted wire bought from this site”.

ADMIN – Hi Perry,

Can you email me a quick sketch or a description of your layout? My initial guess is that there is a problem with the layout. Twisted wire can only be used in specific ways (to connect the boundary loop to the transmitter(. If the twisted wire is part of the main boundary loop it will just act as regular wire.

From your symptoms, it is unlikely there is anything wrong with the twisted wire. When the twisted wire fails, the whole systems stops working and you won’t get the collar triggering in parts of the fence beyond the twisted wire if anywhere.

Mike May 10, 2011 at 10:46 am

I have read the posts about the inability to create dead sections of wire run. So, I was seeking a recommendation for a layout. I want to do the back yard. I have a smallish yard with physical fence on each side of the yard (neighbors fencing). Across the back of the yard and a short run on each side of the house to the side fences is the area I want to be active. I really want to keep the signal away from the current fence in order to give the dog as much space to roam as possible..allowing her to go up to the current fence. I know I can do a loop at the back of the yard only but that does not solve the one side of the house. Any suggestions?

ADMIN – Hi Mike,

When you get to the fenced sections where you want there to be no signal, run the wire along the top of the fence (instead of buried at ground level). When the wire is up high, the signal has a longer path to reach the dog at ground level. This makes the boundary width much narrower in these sections. Depending on how tall the fence is and how wide you set the boundary width, the dogs may be able to get right up to the fence.

Spike May 3, 2011 at 12:22 am

I have a lakefront property and was thinking of a different way to only have to make one loop. I was wondering about splicing in some coaxial cable along the lake edge. Wouldn’t that prevent the signal along that area and allow me to just make one loop? Great site by the way! Very useful.

ADMIN – Hi Spike,

We have tried coaxial cable and had customers try coax with little success. I presume your thinking is that the coax is shielded and so you won’t get a signal along that section of the fence. That doesn’t seem to work for us. That is not to say someone smarter than us couldn’t figure it out. If you get it working we would love to know how you do it – it would be very useful!

Erik McWilliams April 26, 2011 at 2:47 pm

the edge of my driveway forms the boundary to my property line. I want to put the electric fence loop in around my entire property except for this one area. The reason is that we want to be able to let the dogs on that part of the driveway without fear of getting too close to the edge. I cannot bury down more than six inches and I cannot go above. I know two wires would block a signal, would three wires block the signal as well, because its the only way I can see getting around it. I can submit a drawing if I have an address to send it to. -Erik

ADMIN – Hi Erik,

Three wires do no block the signal, the third wire makes the signal active again. You can email a diagram to us at questions@DogFenceDIY.com and we would be happy to try and figure out something that work.

Robbin April 16, 2011 at 6:02 pm

We have 2 dogs that we want to use the electric fence. One is a labrador & the other is a small dachshund. Which system is best for them both?

ADMIN – Hi Robbin,

For dogs of greatly different sizes and temperaments, we recommend going with a PetSafe system because the collars are interchangeable. If you have a strong-headed Lab, I’d recommend going with the Stubborn fence for him. If he’s laid back, I’d recommend you go with the PetSafe Deluxe for the Lab. If your Dachshund is under 12 lbs, you’ll need to go with the PetSafe Little Dog Collar. If he’s over 12 lbs, I’d recommend the Deluxe collar.

Irene March 13, 2011 at 6:47 pm

Hi! We just recently got the SD-2000, while we were figuring out the lay out of the wire; mind you we have about 2-3 acres to cover. While discussing it we realize we don’t have enough wire, we bought some more and now we are wondering how do you connect the two wires together with out buying another transmitter? Can we just strip the two ends of the wires and join them together? Thanks for your help and time

Admin-Hi Irene,

Absolutely, you can splice the cable together to complete the loop. Please see our instrucational video on how to do it. (http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/splicing-the-cable/)

Shannon Jaquays March 12, 2011 at 4:08 pm

Hey there,
This site has been so very informative, but I have a couple of questions that I cannot find answers to..
1) I am fencing in a very small area. I live in a development and there is just about 13 feet between the houses. I am fortunate enough that my neighbor on one side is allowing me to run the fence directly down the side of their house to give my dogs passageway from the back to the front yard, However, there are a few small gardens that I would like to protect. They are only 2 feet deep, but if I twist the wire in and run a loop all the way around, I am afraid my dogs will no longer have the necessary room needed to pass though…. can I twist in, run the active wire along the very back of the bed and then loop right back and then twist out?? So basically there would only be active wire at the back of the beds, but with the 3-5ft range they wouldn’t be able to go into them. Would this work or does there have to be a certain amount of space between the active wire??

2) When twisting the wire, can I just run the wire in and around the area and then twist the wire going out with the wire coming in and continue with my loop, or do they actually have to be cut and spiced??

Sorry if this is all confusing, but I don’t know how else to explain it. =) Thanks in advance for any advice!

ADMIN – Hi Shannon,

1) If you plan on buying the Innotek 4100 or 5100, you can buy the outdoor rocks to set up boundaries around your flower beds. The issue with running twisted wire off the boundary to create a secondary loop around the flower beds is that the wire will transmit the same boundary width. This means it’s will cancel the boundary width signal when when the loop around the flower beds are so close to each other. You can plug boundary wire into the outdoor rocks and run a loop around the flower beds, then dial the boundary width signal down to something minimum. This works great for places like your describing that are a tight squeeze for your dog.

2) I’m not sure what your describing here. If you like, feel free to draw a diagram and email it to me. I’d be happy to take a look at it and make suggestions. My email is jody@dogfencediy.com.

Chad McGlothlen March 3, 2011 at 4:49 pm

Your site is WONDERFUL…lots of great info. I’m thinking about installing a IUC4100 around my 1 acre yard with a typical loop installation, the problem is….we have a flower bed that runs around the whole house except for the patio (which has a block wall around it and one 3 foot opening to walk through), driveway, and front walkway. It runs anywhere from 3-5 feet away from the house. We are trying to keep the dog out of the flowerbed while at the same time allowing him to walk through the opening in the patio wall and the garage, how can this be done?

ADMIN – Thanks Chad,

Could we run the wire around the house in the flower bed, then when we get to the start of the patio run the wire up a downspout and along the guttering until we are on the other side of the patio, then run the wire back down and into the flower bed. Getting the wire up high in the patio area will let the dog pass under and go in and out of the house/patio without getting the correction.

John Fraser February 25, 2011 at 10:56 pm

I think your site is great. I have two questions. I just moved to Bermuda and our house is made of cement blocks which means walls are fairly thick. Will a wireless system with the transmitter inside the house still work? Second question. We have a fairly steep driveway leading up to the house will this present problems for a wireless system?
Thanks once again for your help.

ADMIN – Hi John,

The thicker the walls the more the range of the wireless systems tends to get reduced and the less consistency you get with the boundary. Steep slopes are also problematic, a good rule of thumb is that if you cannot see down the slope then it probably will not work. Since you have both a slope and thicker walls, I would avoid the wireless system and would direct you more toward the wired systems.

Joel January 18, 2011 at 2:00 pm

We live on a farm and want to give our dog a large area, maybe 20-30 acres or so. Laying our wire will be a real challenge — lawn, creek, laneway, pasture, fields… My question is, how deep underground can you lay the containment wire? Can we bury it two feet down or so out in the field so farm implements won’t snag it? Or is the field simply going to have to be off-limits for our dog? Thanks in advance!

ADMIN – Hi Joel,

Once you get the wire down below about 1 foot, it gets hard to get a good signal at ground level. This is particularly the case where you have a large installation over 10 acres. I am afraid 2 feet would simply be too deep.

If there is a convenient fence nearby or you want to string the wire up on stakes, that may be a work-around to get the wire across the field without burying the wire.

Peter December 27, 2010 at 7:54 pm

We were given a Petsafe system and must now buy cable to install it for our big Lab/Weimaraner. For the life of me, and after watching your installation vimeo, I cannot figure out why you recommend that the twisted wire connector be spliced into the main loop. If the two ends of the twisted pair must be spliced to each end of the perimeter loop, wouldn’t it be easier and more trouble free to simply run the cable loop to the perimeter meeting point, leaving sufficient length to create the twisted pair? Then you could use the drill, gripping the meeting point together, and simply wind the connector portion together with enough length to meet the control box? No splices and same circuit, right? Maybe I’m missing something? Thanks for your great help with these issues.

ADMIN – Hi Peter,

There is absolutely no need to splice the twisted wire as your rightly suggest. The way you suggest, where you take the two wires from the loop and twist them together works great, and avoids the need to make two extra splices.

melissa December 22, 2010 at 10:55 am

Hi,

We need a fence in 2 different locations. The same 2 dogs use both locations daily. Will their collars work in both locations?

Thanks!

As long as you have two transmitters, then yes that would not be a problem!

James Ussery December 10, 2010 at 10:45 pm

Can I connect the Basic Inground Pet fence to an existing aluminum fence that runs half way around my yard to complete the loop?

ADMIN – Hi James,

Generally attaching the dog fence boundary wire to a fence works great. But, you do want to watch out for sheet metal (I am not sure if that is what you have or if it is some other aluminum design like pickets). Often, sheet metal can amplify the dog fence signal, so the dog fence will be wider in the section where the wire is attached to the sheet metal.

Pete November 28, 2010 at 1:32 pm

Can I use #12 wire with Pet Safe In-Ground fence for stubborn dogs? Can I splice the #12 wire to the wire that came with the fence?

ADMIN – Hi Pete,

You can use 12 gauge wire, but you don not want to mix it with the standard 20 gauge wire that comes in the box. You can mix wires that are close together in thickness, but where there is a big difference I would avoid mixing. The reason is that the sections with the thicker wire tend to have a wider boundary width as well. This becomes more pronounced the bigger the difference in gauge. So if you mix very different gauges, you will have the fence be much wider in some places than others.

Rebecca November 28, 2010 at 11:10 am

Can I use both the flat wire and the pretwisted together when installing the 4100 model or do you have to exclusively use one or the other?

ADMIN – Hi Rebecca,

In most cases you will use both the twisted wire and the regular single wire. The main boundary loop that define’s your dog’s boundary is made of the single wire. The twisted wire is used to connect that main boundary loop to the control box and is not active so the dog can freely cross without getting the correction.

Ben November 8, 2010 at 1:13 pm

Hi,

How high off the ground does the wire need to be so that it will not affect access to a doggie door into the garage? I have a second-story deck that’s 8′ off the ground – is that high enough? What’s the distance above the ground at which the dog won’t feel the warning?

Thanks,
Ben

ADMIN – Hi Ben,

7 to 10 feet is usually enough distance to keep the signal out of range of the collar. However, to make sure, you’d add up the boundary width distance (how far the signal transmits off the wire) with the height the collar is off the ground and see if it’s well below 8′. If it’s cutting it close, you can simply decrease the boundary width.

Ryan October 26, 2010 at 1:51 pm

I have a fenced in back yard that opens into a small lot that would be perfect for a play area. The problem is the lot has free acess to the road (the only side I need to fence). I am trying to figure out a way to keep my dog contained. The problem is there are several obstacles to overcome and I cant figure out how to do it. Ill do my best to describe it…
North and East sides are already fenced. South side is open to the road. The West side lines the driveway to the garage. On the back side of the garage is the gate to the lot. One of the big problems im having is the gate is between the garage and the north fence. Also, there is nothing to hang the wire from that is more than 6 ft. high.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Ryan

ADMIN – Hi Ryan,

Afraid I lack the imagination to visualizing your lot. Email us a diagram, and we would be happy to take a shot at designing a layout for you.

Sheila October 15, 2010 at 8:48 pm

we have a fenced backyard and a dog that is part Houdini .. So are planning to install an electric fence attaching it to our permanent fence. The area to be enclosed is rimmed by a fence on 3 sides and the house makes up the 4th side. The Dog has fee reign in the house but I’m concerned that running the wire along the foundation will still affect her. What do you suggest to route the wire?

ADMIN – Hi Sheila,

There are a few ways you could enclose your backyard without the dog getting corrected when crossing the fourth side into the house:

  1. Run the wire up the rainspout, across the gutter and down the rainspout on the other side of the house. The vertical height over the dog will let Houdini go in and out of the house without getting the correction.
  2. On the fourth side run the wire tight around the front of the house
  3. Only lay the wire along the three sides of the property where you need it, then double back on yourself to complete the loop. The wires need to be six feet apart, but if you have a tall fence in place, one thing you can do is run one wire along the top of the fence and the other along hte bottom of the fence to give you the needed separation.

Take a look at some of the diagrams in our Installation –> Planning pages (http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/) .

Shawna September 20, 2010 at 3:17 pm

Hi, I have a fenced in yard and would like to use the electronic fence to keep the dog out of my gardens. There are 6 different discreet beds that would have areas in between that I would like the dog to have access to. Is this scenario possible with the electronic fence?

ADMIN – Hi Shawna,

You have two options, You can run a loop around each garden bed and connect each loop to the next with the twisted wire. Another good way to go, would be to use one of the Pawz Away Outdoor Pods (they are like a fake rock that you can put in each bed to keep the dogs out).

Bob September 19, 2010 at 9:45 pm

I am looking to install and invisible fence in my yard. I have an asphalt drive way with a concrete drive way pipes. I was wondering could I put the wire in a PVC pipe and put the PVC pipe in the concrete. Will the signal still work .

ADMIN – Hi Bob,

The signal will go through the pipe and concrete just fine as long as it is not too deep. You don’t want to go much more than a foot down, otherwise you have to turn up the boundary width really high to get the signal through the concrete leading to a really wide boundary everywhere.

One little trick is to use thicker wire for the driveway section, the thicker wire tends to produce a stronger signal and a wider boundary in the small section it is installed.

Erik H September 11, 2010 at 10:00 pm

When going under a driveway, will it work if I place the wire in a small pvc pipe going through a metal culvert drain?

ADMIN – Hi Erik,

As long as that culvert is not too deep below the driveway that would work fine. The signal can go through the pvc, metal pipes and ground. The boundary width will be a little less wide in that area because the signal has to go through all those obstacles – but that should not be a big deal if you have a normal 3-5 foot wide boundary setting.

Charlie Moore September 7, 2010 at 1:55 pm

I just purchased a home that had The Invisible Fence System installed. The previous owners took the control box and collars with them. The wire is still in the ground. Can I use the wire that was left behind with this system? BTW the previous owners had the Invisible Fence System installed in 2009 so the wire should still be in good shape. Thanks,

ADMIN – Hi Charlie,

You are in luck, they did all the hard work for you! As long as that old wire is stil intact, you can hook up any system to the old wires and be up and running in minutes.

Lisa August 30, 2010 at 9:53 pm

We have 5 acres that is fully fenced except for a 50 ft stretch across the driveway and front (that section juts out like an L). I am trying to figure out how to make an electronic fence across that section work. How would I make it into a loop? The control box would be in our garage, about 100 yards down the driveway from the section that needs the electronic fence. Should I create a very narrow (6ft wide) loop across that 50 ft section, and then link it back to the garage with a very long twisted wire? Also–the stretch in between is farmed. Should I leave the twisted wire staked to the ground alongside the driveway and then pull it back when it is time to plow.

ADMIN – Hi Lisa,

You’re correct! You’d run a long section of twisted wire down to the road and then create a very narrow 50 foot long loop that’s a minimum of 6 feet separated. As for the plowed area, you can bury it deep enough so that it would be safe from getting dug up and you never have to move it.

Michelle August 10, 2010 at 11:43 am

Your reply about two twisted pair splicing… so take the one cut wire off the primary twisted pr and splice it to BOTH ends of the secondary twist pair??? I was trying to splice the two wires on each twist pair together…

ADMIN – Hi Michelle,

When splicing twisted wire, each wire needed to splice to it’s own separate wire. Therefore, there will always be two splices when working with a twisted wire section. See our twisted wire page.

Krista August 10, 2010 at 10:29 am

You are very kind to conitnue to answer all of my questions! I have 2 more :-)

First, (and this might be a dumb one) why is it necessary to cut the wire before you twist it when going from the boundary loop to the control box? Isn’t it possible to twist the wire without having to cut it and later splice it?

Second, we will be mounting the box inside our laundry room. If it doesn’t work to come in through the window, is it possible to come in through the dryer vent? My concern is whether the heat in the dryer vent would damage the wire or be dangerous at all.

Thanks again!

ADMIN – Hi Krista,

1) You can definitely do that. That’s how we illustrate it to explain the concept. However, you can use whatever install method you like to accomplish it.

2) You can run it through the dryer vent. The wire is rated against high heat and will be okay.

Charles Grant July 25, 2010 at 12:00 pm

Can I attach two twisted pair wires to a single transmitter. Each of these twisted pairs would run for around 100′ and then I would attach a normal loop containment to each of the twisted wires. In other words, I would attach two complete and individual circuits to the transmitter. Thanks.

ADMIN – You can attach two twisted pair to a single transmitter. You can do it the way you suggest, with both twisted pair connecting directly to the transmitter – but, this can lead to the two loops having different signal strengths (because they are on different circuits.

The preferable way to do it is to splice one of the twisted pair into the other. So you will connect one of the twisted pair to the transmitter. At a convenient location on this primary twisted pair, cut one of the two wires and splice in the secondary twisted pair.

doug andrew July 25, 2010 at 9:43 am

Can the twisted wire be used to go under a deck which has an outside door which we would like to use to let the dog in and out. The twisted wire would be in the main loop, or is there a better way to do it. thanks

ADMIN – Hi Doug,

You can never use the twisted wire as part of the main loop. When you do use the twisted wire as part of the loop it is fully active and triggers the collar as per normal.

There is no way to shield part of the loop, but you can go high above or down below the deck so that the signal does not reach the deck. If the deck is elevated a few feet above ground, we will often go down below the deck. Otherwise, we will run the wire along the roof line in the area of the deck to get across without creating an area of correction. Take a look at the Installation–>Planning section for more options.

If you email us a diagram of the layout, we can usually design something that will work.

Jason July 15, 2010 at 10:20 pm

We live on a lake and would like the dogs to have the ability to get in the water. How would you implement a 3 sided fence? We could bury the shore line side in metal conduit, would that be enough to stop the signal. Is there a better way to do this? Thanks

ADMIN – Hi Jason,

There are a few ways to do lake frontage where you want the dogs to be able to go in the water.

First, you can do a U-shaped loop of the other three sides, then double back on your self six feet apart to complete the loop.

Second, you can run a regular loop around all four sides, but on the lakefront side, run the wire up high above ground level (using for example conveniently located trees). The vertical elevation of the wire lets the dogs pass underneath without getting the correction.

Third, you can run a loop along all four sides, but on the lakefront side run the wire out into the lake and sink the wire to the bottom of the lake if it is deep enough. I like this method the least because, if you get a break out in the lake area – fixing it is a pain.

Putting the wire though metal conduit is not helpful. The metal does not block the signal consistently, it often enhances the signal.

Cathy Carducci May 24, 2010 at 12:11 pm

I have two acres of property and I would like to know invisible fence products can I use?
is your products long enough to put this around my property.

ADMIN – Hi Cathy,

Yes, with any of our dog fence systems you’ll be plenty within range. The two smallest acre sizes is the Perimeter Technologies Ultra with a capacity of 5 acres and the PetSafe Stubborn dog with a capacity of 10 acres. The rest of the fences have a capacity of 25 acres and up.

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