Planning

Marking Utilities and Obstacles

The first thing we need to do is have your underground utility lines marked so you know where to be careful when digging.  811 is a free service that alerts water, sewer, electricity, cable and gas suppliers to mark your property with the route of any underground utility lines.  Simply call 811 and the utility companies will mark their underground utility lines with either flags or spray paint.  It can take up to  a week so you will want to call now.  If you have privately installed any utilities like a septic system or lines for gas cylinders you will want to mark these as well.  Most utilities are deeply buried (over a foot deep) and you will only be burying the cables a few inches deep so usually underground utilities are not an issue, but it is better to be safe than sorry and dig carefully in areas where utilities are located.

If possible mark the location of any sprinkler system lines or low voltage power lines for any outdoor lighting system you have had installed.  If you can’t determine the location of these lines, make your best guess.  Damaging a sprinkler line or a low voltage power line is not a big deal, both are easy to fix.  Just be sure to shut off the water and power before you start digging.


Diagram Your Yard

On grid paper, sketch a rough map of your property showing any buildings, paths, driveways, garden beds,  underground utilities and other obstacles.  Figure out which parts of the garden you want to give your dog access to and which parts you want to block access to.

Decide where you will locate the transmitter box.  The transmitter should be located near a power outlet and protected from the elements.  Inside a garage or electrified shed is ideal.

Now determine where you will run your fence.  The fence needs to make a complete loop starting and ending at the transmitter box.  You will use a pair of wires twisted together in places where you want the dog to be able to cross the wire safely. For more details on twisted wire, see here.


Design Principles

Some things to keep in mind when deciding on the placement of wires:

  1. Cross utility lines at right angles – you want to avoid running wire close to a utility line for an extended stretch because, in some rare instances a boundary wires running close to a utility wire can induce a signal in the utility wire making part of your home wiring trigger the collar receivers.
  2. Round corners –  boundary wires should turn corners gradually, avoiding sharp 90 degree turns.
  3. Separate parallel boundary wires – Boundary wires emit signals that will cancel each other out, so you want any boundary wires that are parallel to each other to be at least six feet apart.  Similarly, if your neighbors have a dog fence, keep your wires about six feet from theirs.

Sample Layouts

Perimeter Dog Fence Layout

Dog Fence Basic LayoutThe most popular layout runs along your yard’s perimeter.  This layout allows your dog access to the entire property.

The twisted wire joins the house transmitter box to the boundary wire.  This enables the dog to safely walk over the twisted wire path.

Where possible lay the boundary wire two yards back from the road to give a good safety buffer for you dog and to allow a space for pedestrians.  Also try to allow three yards between the boundary wire and the house on at least one side to allow the dog room to pass between the front and back yard.


Backyard Dog Fence Layout

The challenge in doing a backyard only installation is that you want the house side of boundary to be inactive so your dog can freely enter and exit your home without getting the correction. However, for the system to work, you still need a full loop of single (untwisted wire). There are a number of approaches you can take:

Backyard Dog Fence LayoutThe easiest way to make a complete loop, while only giving the dog access to the backyard is to make a loop that goes tight around the front of the house too. This completes the loop, but there is not enough space around the front of the house for the dog to have access to the front yard. When you do this type of layout, it is important to do a quick check with the collar inside the house to make sure that the signal is not inadvertently spilling into the house in rooms where you dog will stay. If there is a problem, just decrease the boundary width, or move the wire a little further from the front of your house.

Dog Fence Gutter LayoutAnother popular method is go high over the back of your house. Run the wire up a downspout on one side of the house, across the gutter, and down the downspout on the other side of the house. This vertical height over the ground gives your dog enough space to get in and out of the back door without triggering the correction. As always, you want to test with the collar at the back door to make sure there is no signal accidentally reaching down where the dog will walk. Also test rooms near the gutter line to make sure there is no signal spilling into those rooms. If there is unwanted spill, turn down the boundary width setting on the control box until you are getting no spill.

Dog Fence Layout Double LoopThe final method is to go around the three sides of the yard, then double back on yourself to make a U-shaped loop. The two opposite wires need to be separated by at least six feet to avoid the signals from one loop from interfering with the other.  If they are too close you will not get a nice strong signal along the boundary, and you may have dead spots where there is no correction at all. If you already have a tall fence in place, on way to achieve this without digging is to run one leg of the wire along the top of the fence, and the return leg along the bottom of the fence, so you get the necessary separation.


Exclusion Zones

You can also add small exclusion zones to keep your dog out of small areas within your property. For example you may want your dog to have full access to your yard except a small garden bed.

To do this you loop some boundary wire around the area you want to protect and join the loop to the main loop with some twisted wire.


Figure 8/Hourglass Layout

The hourglass layout contains the dog in both the front and back yard, but does not allow the dog to cross between the front and back yard. This is great if you want the dog with you in the front or back yard but do not want them crossing between them.
Note that the two loops are connected to each other on the left hand side of this diagram and that they both connect to the transmitter box on the right hand side.

Single-sided Boundary Layout

With a bit of inventiveness, you can create a single sided boundary. The only stipulation is that the twisted wire section can only be half the length of the looped boundary wire. For example, if your loop is 100 feet in a circle, you can only run 50 feet of twisted wire back. This install is very popular with people who live in a rural setting and they want to protect their dog from running out onto the freeway. You simply run a long length of twisted wire from the wall transmitter out to the road. Create a long, skinny loop of boundary wire, remembering to keep the parallel sections a minimum of 6 feet separated to avoid the wires interfering with each other. The key for success of this installation method is run your loop far enough along the road so that your dog doesn’t run around it.


Lake Front Layout

On a lake front property, if you’d like to incorporate the lake into your fence you have several options.  Do note that there is no danger for your dog to receive a correction when swimming.  The correction level will not change or pose any sort of safety threat.  When incorporating the lake, it’s useful to know if your lake front gradually gets deeper or simply drops off.  Depending on what you’re trying to accomplish will determine how you go about incorporating the lake.  It’s recommended when sinking wire into a lake to run it into a water hose or irrigation hose and sink it to the bottom.  This will protect the wire from critters and fishing hooks.

Lakefront Option One is to simply submerge extra boundary wire out into the lake at your desired distance. Do you want your dog to just be able to walk into the lake a few feet so she can get a drink or lay down in the water to cool off? Or do you want to sink the wire over 10 feet so that she can go for a deeper swim or freely jump into the boat when the family goes out? You’re goal will determine how much wire you plan to sink. Dog Fence Lake Installation Option 1
Lakefront Option Two if you have enough yard space, you can use a double back approach to create a three-sided boundary. Simply set an extra length into the lake when doubling back so that your dog will not be able to easily run around the fence. Dog Fence Lake Installation Option 2
Lakefront Option Three is a modification of the first where you incorporate the dock and boat house, but the lake is otherwise not incorporated into the fence plan. Dog Fence Lake Installation Option 2

Gate on the Boundary

Dog Boundary Gate LayoutThe Boundary Gate allows you to create a “gate” along the boundary where there is no correction. This is useful where you have a physical gate that you want to use in this section instead of the electronic fence. For this layout to work, you will need to use the double back layout and keep the parallel wires separated by at least six feet. Where you get to the non-correction gate area, you will bring the two wires together and twist them.

Since this requires a lot of extra wiring, many people find it easier to use a non-layout solution. Instead when they create a virtual gate, training the dog that when they you take off their collar and give them permission, they can walk through the gate without fear of correction. This is covered in more detail in the Dog Fence Training section of the website where we look at walking your dog through the boundary.


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{ 244 comments… read them below or add one }

Malcolm October 14, 2011 at 4:48 pm

I just bought a Innotech 4100 and notice the manual recommends the wire is kept at a distance of 10′ from the street.
The dog experts book you provided states one yard.
Which is correct ? as the field adjustment control could cold be set to control this distance.

Thanks for a very informative site.

Admin- Hi Malcolm,

We recommend one yard. However, if you wish to install the boundary wire closer to the road you can. You will be able to set the field width coming off of the wire. We recommend having a 4-6 foot boundary from the wire.

Harvey October 11, 2011 at 2:32 pm

I want to do the backyard thing, but would like to have a gate at the back of the yard. I understand I can use the double loop, but I would like to know is what would happen if I ran the wire through a grounded section of metal conduit. Would that cancel the signal?

ADMIN – Hi Harvey,

Running the wire through metal conduit will most likely amplify the signal or make the signal random bounce around the yard. I know it uses more wire, but the double loop is really your best option for creating your desired layout.

julie brunette October 8, 2011 at 9:45 am

We are installing an underground fence and have a question about the chain link fences that both of our neighbors have. I would like our dog to be able to go up to the chain link fences and smell and greet the neighbor dogs.
I am using the backyard only configuration on a large pie shaped lot.
My question – Is there an easy way to eliminate the correction charge along the fence lines on both sides of the yard? My two thoughts are
!) bury the wire really deep along the fence line to reduce the distance of correction in these areas
2) run a double boundary wire the whole perimeter and twist it when we get to the fences. I don’t like this because it requires more wire and two trenches to bury the wire at least 6 ft apart.
3)tell him he can’t smell his friends
4) another option perhaps?

ADMIN – Hi Julie,

Number 2 is the only option in terms of a functioning layout that will work precisely as planned. Otherwise, you may have to tell him he can no longer smell his friends.

Roch October 4, 2011 at 12:53 pm

Can I increase the wire length from 300 meters to 400 meters with the same performances?

ADMIN – Hi Roch,

You can indeed increase the length of the wire without a drop-off in performance, as long as you keep within the maximum distance for your system. 400 meters is not going to be a problem for any decent system. You will need to turn up the boundary width dial a little.

Jessica October 3, 2011 at 9:54 pm

What a great website! I’ve read alot of the info and still have some questions. We’re looking at installing our own fence in our backyard which is bordered on each side with a privacy fence and then across the back by a large creek that has a dock/pier. Is it possible to somehow create a loop that would follow our side perimeters but not include the side against the water? That way our dog could swim but hopefully learn to not cross the side boundaries into the neighbors yards. OR have you seen good response with a total closed loop that includes the water side but teaching your dog when it is ok to go into the water? I’ve seen mention of teaching your dog to only go in water when the collar is off and I was wondering how this usually works. Thank you so much!

ADMIN – Hi Jessica,

If you want to allow free access to the water, then you have two options. You can do a U-shaped loop, going around the three sides where you want containment, then doubling back on yourself – six feet apart. Or you can do a loop around the whole property, running the wire out into the lake and sinking it down deep so the dogs can swim over without triggering the collar. See the lakefront dog fence layout diagrams on this page for more details.

If you want to restrict access to the water, you just do a regular loop and then, as you mentioned, train the dog to go into the water when the collar is off and you give permission. (See the training section of the website for more details on how that is done.)

Both layouts will work. We usually find it is better to restrict access to the water for indoor dogs, otherwise they are constantly wet and tracking mud into the house.

Greg October 1, 2011 at 9:07 pm

I am trying to come up with an idea for a lakefront lot. The double loop method will cause too much loss of yard. Could I run twisted wire from the house and all along the beach; then when I get to the corner spin one of the wires back down the beach as a 3rd wire;when I reach the opposite side of the beach I will send just the 3rd wire up the side yard to splice in the backyard with the other wire that went up the opposite side yard. Ultimately my question is will the 3rd wire cancel as well along the beach? I’m not concerned with containment in the water.

ADMIN – Hi Greg,

Afraid that running three wires together would cause that section of fence to become active.

Jerri October 1, 2011 at 7:27 pm

You say not to run fence to close to electric wires for extended periods, The whole width of my front yard has electric lines running across it. the dog fence will run the same path across front yard. How far away should I keep the fence from the electric lines? Its probably 150 to 200′ across the front yard. Thanks. Great site!

ADMIN – Hi Jerri,

You don’t want the electric lines running too close and parallel to the dog fence wire. If you can keep it more than 6 feet away, you will be fine.

If you must run them close together, it is usually not a big deal. You just want to be sure to take the collar in the house and test that you aren’t getting stray dog fence signals in the electrical system. Take the collar and test around power outlets to make sure the collar is not triggering in the house. This rarely happens, but it is worth taking the time to check.

Tim September 11, 2011 at 9:54 am

Our dog will only wear the collar when going outside (she’s an inside dog, most of the time.) Since we only want to zone the backyard, could we route the wire thru the crawlspace underneath the house instead of along the gutter and get the same results? Thanks, Tim

ADMIN – Hi Tim,

You could route the wire through the crawlspace under the house and the system would work. Unless, the crawlspace if particularly high, the signal would however still get through the floor so you would not be able to take through the back of the house to the outside without taking the collar off and likewise when you took her back inside.

While it would work, I would caution against this type of arrangement. Putting the collar on and off throughout the day becomes a huge pain, and inevitably someone will forget to take the collar off when bringing her in resulting in an unintended (and undeserved correction). Nearly every time a customer does this, it tends to be a short-term solution and they end up re-routing the wire to a more user friendly layout.

Linda September 4, 2011 at 4:28 pm

We get a lot of snow. If the snow banks are higher than the distance set. Would the system still work in between the snow banks? (Hope I explained this correctly.) Also we have an area in our yard that has many rocks and boulders. Can we simply run the wire behind the boulders? What would be the draw backs? Thank you for your help.

ADMIN – Hi Linda,

When the snow accumulates, the signal would not get through the snow banks that are higher than the range set. But, the signal would still work in between banks where the range was set higher than the height of the snow.

You can run the wire along the ground and staple it every few yards to stop the wire moving. If it is not mowed, then there should be no problems. The only issue would be aesthetic.

Mark Whiteman September 2, 2011 at 4:01 pm

What gauge wire is recommended? I would think the lighter gauge wire would tend to break easier.

Admin- Hi Mark,

We recommend that if you are installing more than 1000 feet of wire. A thicker gauge (14-16) would be a better option than the lighter gauge (18-20) wire.

Jeff August 29, 2011 at 5:12 am

I have an above ground pool that for safety sake I would like to exclude. Could I simply enclose the pool inside in the main loop and then create a pigtail that was twisted with a single wire around the pool? Sort of a lollipop shape. With the “stem” being the twisted wire? My concern is that where the “stem” meets the outer main single wire there might be an “opening” to escape from.

ADMIN – Hi Jeff,

If I am understanding you correctly, you are going twisted wire out to the pool, then the two twisted wire as branching out and going around the pool to make a single wire loop. (similar to the pool exclusion zone in the diagram above) That would work.

There will not be a gap in the boundary where the twisted wire branches out and goes into the main loop. While the signal right at the join may be canceled out, the wires on either side will still work and will cover the weak spot.

Dan August 14, 2011 at 9:50 am

I just bought a house and have a full fence around the property except the small drive way is it possible to just run the electric fence across the drive way?

ADMIN – Hi Dan,

You can run a small loop across the driveway. Note that you need a complete loop, so you would have to go across the driveway and double back on yourself a few feet away to complete the loop. The Layout woudl look similar to the diagram for the single sided layout on this page, but the loop would be much smaller.

Kinsey August 7, 2011 at 2:08 pm

I have a four foot completely fenced back yard. We need to keep our bullmastiff from jumping up and barking on only one side of the fence. It is built right on the property line and the yard is rather narrow already (50 foot wide lot). Is there any system that would allow us to just activate this one side of our fence? As we already have a small yard we want as much room as possible. Thanks.

ADMIN – Hi Kinsey,

You need to have a complete loop of wire, but there are some creative options. One idea would be to run one length of the wire along the top of the fence, and run the return leg along the bottom of the fence. That would let you cover just one side of the yard..

Donna D'Alterio August 5, 2011 at 5:45 pm

Hello. I have a 3 year old american bull dog mix. I live on the water. All of my property is rocks and I have a 3 foot chain link fence around my property-on the right side of the house only (worthless). With that being said, i dont have much to work with when it comes to burying the wire. I was originally going to purchase a wireless system because the wire system confused me a little when it came time for planning and plotting. My dog will run at any opportunity that arises. With living near a highway, I have to chose a product that will deter him (with the right training) from bolting like he does. I am back and forth on whether to purchase a wireless or in ground system. The wiring is really confusing to me. Can i run the wire through the chain link fence? I have a left side right side and front of house I need to wire, as the back of the house is the water. I guess my ultimate question is wireless or wire, i understand the pros and cons, but they arent helping with my decision.

Admin- Hi Donna,
1) For your American Bulldog, I would highly recommend a wired fence over a wireless fence. A wire fence is much more effective and will be better suited to contain your Bulldog.
2) You will be able to run the boundary wire along the chain link fence. We find that when you add the boundary wire to existing fence they are much more effective.
3) Please view our pre-planned layout page. There are several installation layouts that will fit your property. http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/

Joe July 31, 2011 at 1:23 pm

I have a crawl space under my house that is about 5 feet deep. Can I run my wire through it without it shocking the dog when he crosses it in the house?

ADMIN – Hi Joe,

You can run the wire through the crawl space and use that 5-foot vertical clearance to allow the dog to cross over without getting the correction. You will want to turn down the boundary width dial so the boundary is no more than three feet wide on either side of the wire – that gives you a two foot safety buffer for the dog to pass over the wire. And of course, take the collar around the house and test to confirm that there is no signal getting in the house before you start training the dog.

ScottEDont July 28, 2011 at 12:02 pm

We have a chain link fence. Will this interfere at all?

Admin- Hi Scott,

A chain link fence will not interfere with your boundary wire signal.

Elli May's Mom July 10, 2011 at 8:01 pm

I have a small hound mix, 35 pounds, 8 months old and a Pitt Bull, 5 month old. The Pitt stays home but the hound jumps or digs under the chain link fence. She is on a chain inside the fence to keep her home. We have overhead power lines that cross the back yard and a lot of squirrels. Can you help.

ADMIN – Hi Elli May’s Mom,

I would use a wired system and run the wire along the existing chain link fence. Either snake the wire through the chain link or use a zip-tie every three yards or so to hold the wire in place. For a small hound, an Innotek IUC-4100 would be a good choice.

Squirrels, are not a problem. Where there is already a physical fence in place, training tends to be very easy because it is obvious to the dog where the boundary line is – and running through is difficult. But, I would take a few days in the third phase of the training to tempt her with some squirrels or a neighbor’s dog to teach her that the boundary rules apply even when she gets excited and her prey drive kicks in.

Overhead power lines will not be a problem because they are so high above the dog fence – there will not be any issues with the dog fence signal getting induced in the overhead wires.

Elaine June 21, 2011 at 10:48 am

As I understand it, the wire can be run along an existing perimeter fence rather than stapled or buried. This is a lot easier in my situation. However, I do not have a driveway gate. At the fence opening can the wire be led from the end of the fence, through a drainpipe under the driveway and then continued on to the fence on the other side? Will the signal transmit and provide deterrence connection preventing the dogs from entering the road through the fence opening that we drive through?

ADMIN – Hi Elaine,

The dog fence wire can indeed be run along the fence line. You can also run the wire under the driveway through a drainpipe if there is already one (as long as not more than a foot deep – otherwise the signal does not get through to the surface). Otherwise you need to run the wire closer to the surface (usually you cut driveway with a circular saw, place the wire in the cut and then caulk over).

Kim May 22, 2011 at 1:57 am

Hi, we have a pet safe invisible dog fence system that covers about 21/2 acres. Our system says it will work for 5 acres. We installed the perimeter and connected it with the twisted wire to the transmission box, works great, good signal all the way around.

Dilemma: now we made 2 separate no dog zones around 2 different garden beds that our juvenile delinquents are trashing. It is so far away from the perimeter wire, we spliced 14 gauge wire to the existing twisted wire at the connection point of the transmitter, we then made a loop, and spliced twisted wire from the loop to 1 of the new no dog zones, then made another splice into the loop with twisted pair and ran it to the 2nd new no dog zone. Both of these new zones work pretty good, however now our entire 21/2 acre perimeter hardly has any signal. What did we do wrong?

ADMIN – Hi Kim,

When the system specifications say you can do 5 acres, that really means you can do about 2,000 feet of wire. Doing 2.5 acres, you probably used about 1,500 feet of wire. It is quite possible that when you added more wire to the layout that you went over that limit and now have low power everywhere. If the boundary width dial is at the maximum and the boundary size switch is at maximum, then there is not much you can do to fix the problem except get a more powerful transmitter. (The PetSafe Deluxe transmitter or the SportDog SDF-100A transmitter would do the would be good choices because you could keep you existing PetSafe collars)

Another possibility would be that you made a mistake in the wiring. I couldn’t quite understand your layout from your description. If you email us a diagram of your layout, we would be happy to take a look. As a general rule, all connection should be 1-to-1. There should be no situation where you more than two wires connecting together.

Dave May 19, 2011 at 6:21 pm

We have a fenced in backyard and want to let the dogs in the front yard.What can use to cover the wire so they don’t get shocked when they go near the existing fence.

ADMIN – Hi Dave,

There is no good way to shield the wire. If you have an existing fence, you can run the wire high up on that fence. The vertical height over the over the dog allows the dog to get close to the fence without triggering the warning beep or the shock. Depending on how high your fence is, and on how wide you set the fence, the dog may be able to go right up against the fence.

Thom May 7, 2011 at 6:41 am

I want to run a single loop around the perimeter of my yard (front and back). The one side of my backyard has chain link fence that I would like my dog to be able to approach. There is ground cover next to the fence that my dog likes to go potty in instead of the lawn. Can I run a loop around and wrap the loop with another wire to cancel the signal? My other thought would be to run the wire in conduit, will that cancel the signal so he can access the fence line? Thanks for all the excellent information!

ADMIN – Hi TJ,

If the chain link fence is high (6+ feet), you could run the wire along the top of the fence, that way the signal would not reach the dog on ground level. You could also do a U-shaped layout, where you do a U around three sides of your yard then double back on yourself, keeping the wires at least six feet apart.

Running the wire through conduit will not reliably block the signal, nor would doubling back on yourself (three wires act like a single live wire).

ty May 4, 2011 at 5:13 pm

I live on a lake and want my labs to have access to the lake. Can i use the twisted wire method at the lake to allow them access without doing the loop. My yard is not very big and i want them to have as much access as possible.

ADMIN – Hi Ty,

I am not sure I completely understand. I presume you are asking if you can run the twisted wire along the side of the boundary loop where the lake touches the water. Unfortunately this does not work, the twisted wire will be active and the dogs will not be able to pass over. Twisted wire can only be used to connect the loop to the transmitter, it cannot be used as part of the loop itself.

The typical layouts that people use for a lakefront would either to do a Giant U-shape or to run the wire out deep into the lake. (see the diagrams at the bottom of this page)

Patricia Montou May 1, 2011 at 4:19 pm

We have 2.5 acres and had installed the radio fence in the “dog yard” in a fenced 1 acre area, bringing twisted wire to a window and installing the box in a bedroom. This is about the right 1/3 of our property. We have 5 stray dogs we have adopted and would like to give them more room- so I am thinking about enlarging the fence. I would like to place wire over the rest of the property- but still keep the original fence intact- we have one that jumps the fence regardless, and I would like to have another boundary for him.. Can I run the wire over the rest of the property (basically a big square) and then splice into the other fence? Not sure how to connect the two fences. Could both of the fences wire ends fit in the electrical box?

ADMIN – Hi Patricia,

If I am correctly understanding you, you want both fences to be active, a first smaller loop, and a second larger loop. To do this you would add the second larger loop covering the whole yard. Then connect the larger loop to any point in the smaller loop using the two twisted wires.

jerryblalock April 29, 2011 at 11:24 pm

if you run wire in metal pipe at certain section will this block signal.

ADMIN – Hi Jerry,

Afraid, running the wire through metal piping does not block the signal.

Norman Rowen April 27, 2011 at 7:55 am

I left this comment first on the “splicing” page. Apologies for repeating it here, but this is more appropriate place. This is the first time I’ve looked at your informative site. I think I understand the basics of installation, but (if you’ll indulge me), a few questions. We need to fence off a “U” shaped area at our cottage and to the water. Two stone “docks” (about 50 feet each) need to be “fenced”, then up to the house (where we’ll fence off everything but the door we want our 10 month old retreiver to be able to go out with us – on leash, thereby having her able to romp around an area 250 or so by 100 feet wide) and back down the other side of the U to the other dock. The problem is how to allow her in the water between the two docks and, if I understand, how to complete the circuit. Is the issue simply burying the wire far enough out in the water (not that easy) or are there other alternatives to complete the circuit maintaining the “U” that we need? Also, there may be some disagreement as to how many feet are needed when doubling back: 3 or 6? Many thanks…. Norman.

ADMIN – Hi Norman,

I find the easiest way to create a U-shaped layout is do a complete loop, then when you cross the back of the house, elevate the wire running it through the gutters. (The wires are thus high enough that the signal does not reach the ground and the dog will not get corrected on ground level.)

You want the wires about six feet apart if you are going to do the method of creating a U where you double back on yourself.

To get the wire out into the water, I find it easiest to insert the wire into some old hose pipe or other tubing. (The tubing is not necessary, but IMHO the extra protection is worth it, because repairing a wire break in the water is not fun!) Tie a few sinkers to the wire every ten feet or so, then row or wade out and drop the wire into the water.

Don and Maria April 19, 2011 at 7:40 pm

Hello,
We have 15 acres with the house (and electricity) essentially in the middle. We need a perimeter containment fence and our question is if we would run the twisted wire from the transmitter box to the closest boundary (about 300 ft.) and then the loop all the way around? The property has 3 strands of barbed wire on t-posts already (not electrified); could I attach the invisible fence wire to t-posts, maybe a foot off the ground?
Glad we found you and thanks so much for this site and valuable information.

Admin- Hi Don and Maria,

Absolutely, we have experienced in the past that if you attach the boundary wire 12 to 18 inches off on the ground to an existing fence. You will solve any containment issues almost instantly.

Rob April 12, 2011 at 6:31 pm

I will be installing this in my yard. I have tried to read all coments so as not to ask a question again but did not see it. I live in New England and we have an old rock wall going around 3 sides of the backyard. It is just woods on the other side of the wall. I know the wire can be just droped on the ground if I want to but would the signal go through the rocks if I put it on the other side of the rock wall? It is over a foot thick at some points.

Thanks

Admin-Hi Rob,

The signal should transmit through the wall. The only true way to tell is to run a test loop and see if the collar receives the signal through the wall. Note, you may have to turn the field width on the transmitter to a higher level. This will increase the signal strength to help penetrate the wall.

Patricia April 9, 2011 at 5:42 pm

I just bought a innotek 2100 fence. I have a fenced in backyard already, however, I just want my dog to be able to roam on patio not in backyard, unless we are with her. The patio stretches from one side of house to another.
The door is in back of house and would go right out to patio. I am trying keep her from using backyard to do her business. the transmitter would be inside of course and I could use twisted wires from door to edge of patio (there is a small opening to put the wire across from where transmitter would come out from inside to other side of patio before the grass) Can I just do a continuous circular wire instead of a loop.? Hope this makes sense to you.

ADMIN – Hi Patricia,

If I understand you correctly, you want to run the twisted wire as part of your loop which unfortunately would not work. What I would suggest in your situation is to run a complete loop of the regular wire around the patio, and the back of the house. When you run the wire along the back of the house, raise it up high above the patio (e.g. run it in the gutter), that way the dog can still go in and out of the house without triggering the correction.

Robin March 27, 2011 at 12:24 pm

How big of a perimitor can be covered?

Admin- Hi Robin,

We offer a wide variety of systems that can cover perimeters as little as half and acre and as large as a hundred acres.

Brian March 25, 2011 at 5:19 pm

I plan to install a wired system on my 5 acre property and I want to create two exclusion zones within the property to prevent my very curious Border Collie/Spitz mix from getting into a drainage culvert that is inside my property. I prefer to create a wired exclusion zone as part of the main loop rather than using an outdoor pod. What is the minimum size (diameter) that the exclusion zone can be? I want the dog to have access to the parts of the property that are near the two openings of the culvert, but also keep her out of the culvert.

ADMIN – Hi Brian,

The minimum diameter of the the exclusion zone depends on the how wide you set the boundary width. WIth a typical boundary wdith of 3-5 feet on either side of the boundary wire, you can have exclusion zones with a diameter of 4-6 feet.

Robert Blake March 21, 2011 at 5:39 pm

Hi,
We live in an urban area that is enclosed on 3 sides . The only exit open to our dog is the driveway.. Is it possible to set up a single line system to cross the driveway only??

Admin- Hi Robert,

Yes we have an option for your setup. We call it the Single-sided Boundary Layout. Please see your planning page for the setup diagram.
(http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/#singleside)

Rich March 17, 2011 at 2:23 pm

Thanks for a great website
I had a question in regards to installation etiquette

Our neighbors on both sides of us had electric dog fences professionally installed by Invisible Fence. The neighbor on the south had the fence installed 18″ from property line and the neighbor on the north had the fence installed on the property line( right against our split rail fence). If we install the fence six feet from their installation we will have shrunk our yard and space for our dog way way down. Is there some some of protocol that an installer professional or not should utilize when installing. I desire to simply install three feet from property line and if none of the systems work they both will have to call Invisible Fence to correct the problem. I know that sounds childish but certainly shouldn’t EF have known better???

ADMIN – Hi Rich,

Unfortunately, this is the reality of the situation. There’s a process I’ll recommend to help you find a solution so that you can install your boundary wire on the edge of your boundary line and everyone’s fence will continue to work. The first thing you’ll need to ask both neighbors is to see if their systems can change frequencies. If so, you can choose any fence you like and install how you like.

If yes, they can switch between 7k and 10k to avoid interfering with your fence. The only thing to keep in mind is that if they need to switch their frequency, Invisible Fence will need to recalibrate your neighbor’s collars and that roughly can cost around 150 to 175 dollars per collar.

If one or both of your neighbor’s cannot change their systems frequency, you’ll be limited to two options: 1) maintaining a 15 foot distance from each neighboring boundary wire or 2) purchasing a system where you can switch between 7k and 10k. We currently have two fences that allow you to do that: The SportDog SDF 100A and Perimeter Technologies Ultra dog fence.

Stephanie March 17, 2011 at 11:03 am

Hi,
I have a two acre property. The backyard is fenced in and the front yard isn’t. I want to put the electric fence in the front yard while still allowing my dogs to cross into the back yard through the gate without being corrected. I would also like to be able to let them out through both the front and back door. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Admin-Hi Stephanie,

You will need to run twisted wire off of the transmitter and run it across where the gate is located. Continue the wire around your property until you reach your house again. I would recommend running the wire at the top trim or in the gutter on the front side of your house and than reconnect it to the twisted wire to complete the loop. This would give the dog the ability to cross underneath the wire.

Please see our planning pages for a visual of these concepts.
(http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/)
(http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/twisted-wire/)

Gary March 14, 2011 at 12:19 pm

With a system such as the Innotek IUC 4100, what is the maximum length of wire that can be attached? I have a 10-acre, essentially rectangular property that I need to contain my dog in. Can extra wire be ordered directly from your company? Is the 4100 capable of covering my property?

Also, if there is a break in the wire, will the base unit indicate such? Is there a limit for how long the collar can remain on the dog re: comfort? How long is there between battery charges?

Admin- Hi Gary,

Absolutely, the Innotek 4100 can cover up to 25 acres. I recommend the Innotek 4100, it is by far the most popular system in our online store. The IUC-4100 dog fence system has proven to be extremely reliable and durable. When you order the system it comes with 500 feet of wire. To cover the whole 10 acres of your property you will need to bundle in an extra 2500 feet of wire. We do sell just the wire so when you’re ready to order, feel free to place your order online or simply give us a call. We are always happy to talk with our customers.

Yes, the control box will alarm when there is a break in the line. It takes about two hours to fully charge the collar and lasts about a month. Note that the collar will not last a full month when you are training your dog. The collars will be used a lot more in this period of time. Also, the manufacture recommends that the dog only have the collar on for 12 hours at a time.

KIM UMLOR March 3, 2011 at 2:36 pm

We have a acre pond that our newfie loves to play in and would like to include in the loop system, do you sell waterproof collars? Also what happens if the power go’s out, is there a battery backup system? Thanks for the help.

ADMIN – Hi Kim,

Most of the systems have waterproof collars, and a few have battery backup. A good system that would suit a with both would suit a Newfoundland would be the Innotek IUC-4100.

On systems that don’t have a battery backup, when the power goes out the system stops correcting the dog when they pass the boundary. While battery backup is nice to have, in practice this is not a big deal if you don’t have it. A well trained dog is unlikely to test the fence regularly and will not notice for a few days that the fence is not working.

Renee Dawson March 1, 2011 at 6:34 pm

I would like to fence my property but a stream runs through it. What options are there to keep him from going up or down stream to get out?

ADMIN – Hi Renee,

You can run the dog fence wire through the water or above the water on a convenient fallen tree (if available). If running the wire through the water it is preferable (but not mandatory) to run the wire through a protective tube like an old hose pipe. The reason for the tubing is that it will protect the wire from waterbourne debris – repairing a wire break in the water is no fun!

Bill February 24, 2011 at 1:04 pm

I am installing an irrigation system, any issues with laying fence wiring in trenches with sprinkler pvc piping?

ADMIN – Hi Bill,

Running the dog containment fence wire alongside the PVC water pipes for the sprinkler system is fine. Installing the dog fence at the same time as the sprinkler system is great because most of the hard work is already done!

John Davis February 23, 2011 at 2:50 pm

I’m interested in the Innotek 4100 and had been planning to use the full yard perimeter plan for installing the fence. However, I just realized that with that plan I don’t understand how the dog would leave the yard without getting feedback from the collar.

We live in an urban setting with a .20 acre yard. i want to contain the dog in the yard but we also routinely take the dog on walks – needing to leave the dog with the yard. How do people typically handle this?

ADMIN – Hi John,

When you want to leave to go for a walk during training, we recommend removing the collar and driving your dog over the boundary so he’s not aware of leaving. After your dog has been trained on the fence for at least one month, you can introduce a secondary training regiment to create a “safe gate.” This simply a rigid routine that you adhere to. When going for a walk, you remove the fence collar and replace it with a walking collar and leash. You designate one place on the boundary line as your exit and re-enter point, essentially your safe gate. After your walk, you swap the collars out. Your dog will understand with repetition that they can only leave with you when you go for walks.

Gordon Post February 19, 2011 at 7:19 pm

Can I, starting from the control box, run 3 feet twisted wire then 30 feet wire feet 6 feet apart for correction purposes then twisted again for 80 feet along the back chain link fence then 40 feet 6 feet separation again for correction purposes. The only place that I need correction is on the sides,The other boundaries are the fence and back of house. I do not want to have a correction along the fence or the back of my house since my backyard is not very wide at all and do not want to have reduce it by 3 to 6 feet. Thanks. Your diagrams and explanations are well done. I do plan on purchasing the one for small dogs since my dog is about 12 lbs.

ADMIN – Hi Gordon,

That would work. Clever layout! As I understand it, you are essentially making two long thin loops, and connecting them to each other and the base station with twisted wire.

Kendall February 4, 2011 at 1:31 pm

I didn’t see this shown in any of your diagrams, but if I want a portion, say 30 feet or so, of my loop to be inactive, can I simply twist the wire back on itself for that 30 feet and then back again forward so that for that 30 feet there are effectively 3 wires twisted together?

Admin – Kendall

Twisted wire is simply two regular wires twisted together. Having two wires so close together causes the signals coming out of each wire to cancel each other out and creates a dead-zone where the dog can walk over safely without getting the warning or the correction. But, the twisted wire can only be used in certain situations. The main use for twisted wire is to connect the main boundary loop to the control box. You can also use the twisted wire to connect one loop to another loop. But, you absolutely cannot use the twisted wire as part of the main loop.

If you run the wire down, due a u turn, run down, then u turn back to continue the loop, what happens is the first two wires cancel out, but the 3rd wire will be active. Because of this limitation, we have outlined the majority of ways by which you can run boundary wire. The only way to create a “gate” is to either suspend the wire high in the air, or far down below so that it puts the collar out of range.
I hope this helps you.

Bruce January 27, 2011 at 11:25 am

First thank you for this site and all your GREAT information. Simply the best.
I will be creating one loop around my property. Where the wires need to travel thru the safe area to get to my house/transmitter can i just twist the end of the 2 loop wires where they meet from the perimeter to go to the transmitter making the safe area. I have seen for sale twisted wire and would like to avoid the expense and splice.

ADMIN – Hi Bruce,

Twisting the two loop wires together as they come together and return to the control box works great. There is no reason to splice in a separate section of twisted wire – avoiding a splice as you point out is always a good thing.

Jamie January 22, 2011 at 12:58 am

I am considering a system in my back yard only for my Shitzu mix (10lbs.) and my Pomeranian (8 lbs.) but I live in a center 3-story townhome. I am not sure how to approach and meet the loop requirement because they would exit through the back basement door to the yard. Initially I was thinking that I could put transmitter on my deck (2nd level w/ an outlet) and run the wires from the ground up the exterior on both sides of the deck to meet at the outlet, completing the loop. But, I would have to remove their collars before allowing them to go out on the deck, correct? Also, would it impact them while they are in the house near the wall where the wire would be outside of the house?

ADMIN – Hi Jamie,

You have the right idea. For townhouses, the easiest way to allow access to the back door is to run the loop up and over the door. You could indeed run the wire up to the second floor deck. If you are going to put the transmitter outside, you will want to place it in a waterproof box – they are available in the electrical section of most hardware stores.

The dogs would not be able to go onto the deck without their collars off. When you run the wire along a wall you sometimes will get a small zone in the house the dogs cannot go. It will depend on your walls and how wide you set the boundary width.

Helen January 18, 2011 at 9:24 pm

We are thinking of moving to a house with a small yard overlooking a lake and the lake boundary is unfenced and about 30 ft long and all the other boundaries are secure. We have two clever water loving labradoodles. I am not sure there is enough room between the lake and the pool to put in a loop boundary as the pool is approximately 8 foot away from the lake. Would a Pawz away work in this instance or do you have any other suggestions?

ADMIN – Hi Helen,

If I am understanding correctly, you want to have two loops, one to stop the dogs going out into the lake, and a second to stop the dogs going into the pool. The problem is that those loops would get too close to each other, leading to cancellation along the common boundary?

The Pawz Away when run in wireless mode does not interfere with the wired dog fence boundary. The difficulty is that when run in wireless mode, the Pawz-Away rock needs to be in the center of the area you are blocking, and that is often not practical in a pool (i.e. you don’t want the rock to be in the pool).

If you email us a diagram, we may be able to come up with a layout that works. On idea, would be to make a single loop that encompasses both the pool and runs along the lakeside boundary.

Al Forwood January 18, 2011 at 9:05 pm

I have a physical containment fence around my property except a gap 200′ long and about 700 feet from my house. Can I run the loop wires from my house together, side by side, for the 700 feet and then separate them by 8 feet to form a loop to span the 200 foot gap?

ADMIN – Hi Al,

Yes, you could run a twisted pair of wires out from your property to the point where you have the gap, then separate the two wires to form a long thin loop that is 200 feet long and 6+ feet wide. (It would look a lot like the “Single-sided Boundary Layout” pictured above) The fence would then only be active on the long thin loop, not the twisted section leading up to the loop.

Doug January 15, 2011 at 2:54 pm

WITH THE INNOTEK 4100 CAN I RUN 2-SEPARATE LOOPS FROM THE MAIN TRANSMITTER BOX? Thanks Doug

ADMIN – Yes, you can run as many loops as you want with all the systems. You will connect the first loop to the transmitter using the twisted wire. Then connect the second loop to the nearest point in the first loop also using twisted wire.

See the diagram on this page labelled exclusion zone. Your wiring will be similar to that diagram. (note the loops do not need to be nested inside each other like in that example, they can have any configuration you want.

Eddie Smo January 10, 2011 at 1:13 pm

Thanks much. One more question I just thought of. Would system work about 10 ft. above ground. I have trees all the way around my property and was thinking of running the wire through eye hooks on the tree’s. What’ya think?

ADMIN – Hi Eddie,

You can definitely run the wire above ground, but I think 10 feet above ground will be too high. You would need to really turn up the boundary width dial to get the signal to reach down to ground level where the dog will be. Most systems would not be able to produce 10 foot wide boundaries. It may work if you get a system that is a lot more powerful than what you would regularly use for your boundary area. (e.g. if you had a 2 acres yard and used a SportDog SDF-100A that is rated to handle 100 acres)

Eddie Smo January 9, 2011 at 5:54 pm

I just bought an invisible fence and am ready for installation. The only problem is there is about an inch and a half of snow on the ground. Even when it melts the ground will still be hard. Any suggestions; Do I absolutely have to bury it or can I fasten to the ground somehow?

ADMIN – Hi Eddie,

You can staple the wire to the ground with lawn staples. The burial isn’t necessary for the system to work, it works equally well above ground. Burial is usually only done for aesthetic reasons or to protect the wire from the dreaded lawnmower. In winter, most people staple the wire to the ground until the snow melts and then they do the permanent burial.

Lana January 2, 2011 at 6:02 pm

Hi Stu, we are looking for a fencing system to contain our golden retrievers to our 5+ acre property. Our neighbor recently installed a system on his property and we are amazed at how well it has worked for their lab. We would like to run the wire right along the edge of the property so we can plow the fields when needed without worrying about the wire. However, I’m not sure if the innotek iuc-4100 system has an adjustable frequency to prevent interference with the neighbor’s system that runs along his side of the fenceline. We like the idea of waterproof collars that are rechargeable and also like the idea of the training remote. We need a system that will expand to accommodate at least 3 collars. We have a big metal barn on the property so the wireless version won’t work for us.

ADMIN – Hi Lana,

When your neighbor has a dog fence system, interference can occur depending on the frequency they are set up on, and whether they are operating on AM or FM. The best way to find out if you will get interference is to rig up a small section and see if the collars are triggering properly. If you have 10 feet of separation between your boundary wire and theirs, you are almost guaranteed no interference.

If you do get interference you either need to move the wires further apart, turn down the boundary strength of both systems or change the frequency. Unfortunately the Innotek systems will not let you adjust the frequency.

The SportDog SDF-100A does have adjustable frequencies and would also be a good choice if the dogs are over 20lbs. The SportDog is not rechargeable but uses regular 9V batteries, so you could get rechargeable batteries and effectively make the system rechargeable. The Perimeter Technologies Ultra lets you switch frequencies but has the dreaded proprietary battery. Both those systems have good waterproofing, so your Golden Retrievers can swim to their heart’s content.

All the wired dog fence systems will let you have an unlimited number of dogs on the same system – just in case you ever want to open a dog sanctuary!

Let us know if you need any further assistance!

Megan December 31, 2010 at 11:24 pm

We are buying a new home that is not fenced in. Our dogs have always lived with a fence, so whenever they get the chance at an un-fenced home, they bolt. So, we desperately need to install a fence when we move. It sounds like it’s okay to just lay the wire above the ground now – and permanently install it when the snow melts and ground is soft? Any advice for making it stay in place over the snow without any attachments?

Thank you – we are very excited about the possibility! Your site is so helpful!

ADMIN – Hi Megan

For installation of a electric dog fence in winter, when the ground is frozen, it is indeed fine to lay the wire on the ground until the ground thaws and you can do your permanent installation. You can either weigh the wire down in a few places, or staple it down to stop the wire moving. The only place where it is important to bury the wire now is across the driveway if you get it plowed.

Nathan December 27, 2010 at 8:00 pm

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and your patience.

I just got a German Shepard/ rottweiler mix who is approximately a year and a half. He seems very smart but i have a couple concerns. one, it’s winter here in Minnesota and the frozen ground is currently under snow. I’d like to just make a smaller area in my back yard, just for the winter, then redo the system in the summer. can an average dog relearn new boundaries? What is your advice about possible options? we have lots of deer and wildlife so i think i should just lay it on the snow? ( and hope nobody drives there snowmobile over it) . can the wire be ran inside conduit or pvc to either protect it or cancel signal for doorway?

thanks for your patience and sorry if my question was redundant, i read and read but didn’t see another question like this, thanks, Nate

ADMIN – Hi Nate,

Dogs will relearn the boundaries but it takes a bit of training and a bit of time (I would say 1-2 months is typical). So while it is certainly preferable to do the final layout the first time around, it is no big deal if you need to retrain the dog after a few months. Just layout out the flags when you do the retraining, and take the dogs across the old borders a few times on the leash and play with them in the expanded area to show them it is ok. (confidence when leading the dogs into the new area always helps – they will be reluctant the first few times so you will need to drag them)

Appreciate the compliment. It is us that should be thanking you and all our other customers for making it possible to make a living doing something we love.

Brad December 25, 2010 at 12:39 pm

“the boundary wire always has to form a complete loop. You cannot use the twisted wire to replace a section of boundary wire.” That is in contradiction of your exclusion zone diagram! Technically in that picture you are using twisted wire to continue your loop.

ADMIN – Hi Sharpshooter Brad,

You are correct. Technically the twisted wire is used to complete the loop. What we are struggling to communicate in words is that you cannot insert a length of twisted wire into the loop to replace a section of single boundary wire.

Robin December 23, 2010 at 3:29 pm

I have a 4′ wide walkway in my yard, with low voltage lighting running along both sides. My planned fence wire layout will pass over the lighting wiring at a about 90 degrees. Will this interfere with fence signal?

ADMIN – Hi Robin,

Interference problems happen when you have long stretches of parallel wires. When wires cross at 90 degrees it is not an issue.

For other readers that might be running their dog fence wire parallel to low voltage lighting, what you need to check for is that the dog fence signal does not leak into the low voltage lighting wiring. Lay out the dog fence wire and plug in the system. Then take the dog fence collar and test where the low voltage lighting wires run and make sure you aren’t getting the dog fence signal in these unintended places.

dan December 22, 2010 at 11:58 pm

Trying to solve the backyard only questions. If I put the charger at one corner of the house, and run the twisted wire along the face of the house, and connect one end to the end of the boundary wire, and connect the other strand to a single strand wire which comes back alongside of the twisted to connect to the other end of the boundary wire near the charger will it cancel the signal in this section or will the fact that the current is going out two wires and back in one still emit a signal?

ADMIN – Hi Dan,

In any scenario that you’re talking about will create live section of wire along the back of the home. Every splice on a dog fence system is a one wire to one wire splice. If you try to create any “dead areas” with twisted wire, you’ll be forced to splice two wires into one or one wire to another with a left over wire. Either case will create a live section of boundary wire. The only backyard options are illustrated above. You either have to suspend the wire high enough to place the signal out of range, run the wire around the front of home, or create a 3 sided boundary by doubling back.

Cody December 15, 2010 at 6:20 pm

Hi, i have a question. Is their any way to make the boundary wire not give off a signal? or possibly just a significantly weaker signal for one side of the boundary (the side with the transmitter), perhaps putting the wire in a metal pipe? or a pvc pipe? We have 2 black labs. The area that we are fencing has a perimeter of about 2000 ft but we only need to cancel out the signal for about 200 ft. We cant put it above because of tree limbs falling. Any ideas?

ADMIN – Hi Cody,

Unfortunately no, there isn’t a way to create a dead area in the boundary loop. I’m not confident that suspending the wire in the air for 200 feet is an option either. The main options for layouts are the ones above on this page.

Steve December 6, 2010 at 10:01 am

Hi, We have a 3/4 acre yard with a pond bordering the back. We want the dog to be able to swim and play fetch in the pond (collar off of course) I understand the need for a complete loop. If you can use two sections of twisted wire to create an “exclusion zone” which keeps the loop, can I use twisted wire onlong the back to allow access to the pond. Thanks in advance

ADMIN – Hi Steve,

Afraid you can’t use the twisted wire along the back side of the fence. If you use the twisted wire in that way, it will act like a regular active wire. Take a look at the lake layouts we have posted for some other ideas.

FYI – if you are going to take the collar off when playing with your dog in the pond section of the yard, you could just train the dog to go past the boundary only when you take the collar off and give him permission. Basically, you create a sctructured routine that lets the dog know when it is ok to cross the boundary. For more details, take a look at the Training section of the website.

Chuck December 5, 2010 at 10:31 pm

I have 2 acres to cover with a perimeter layout, so it is about 1600ft to 2000ft of wire. I had a person come out and quote me a price and they install 12gauge wire in ground instead of 16gauge or 20gauge. He said that the thicker wire is needed for the longer distances and supposed to be stronger and last longer. Does this make much sense or is he just blowing smoke? Will the 20 or 16 gauge wire work just fine?

ADMIN – Hi Chuck,

There is a modest transmission improvement with the thicker wire. But, the distance/area ratings on all the systems (except the Dogtra) are calculated based on using the standard 20 gauge wire. So for the Innotek 4100 you can do 25 acres with 20 gauge and for the SportDog SDF-100A you can do 100 acres with 20 gauge. You might get some benefit if you are operating near the limit of a system with the thicker wire. But, if you are just doing a small area like 2 acres, I would not expect to see any benefit.

At least for us, when we do installations the only reason we use the thicker wire is to stand up to the abuse from the industrial trenchers we use or to satisfy a customer that absolutely wants the thicker wire. There is rarely any functionality reason for using the thicker wire – the 20 gauge recommended by the manufacturers works great for the vast majority of situations.

Jeff December 2, 2010 at 12:07 pm

What’s the real story with choosing wire gauge for the system we’ll be installing? Are the 18ga or 16ga “heavy-duty” wires necessary for longer runs? We are starting out with the 2 acres near the house, but will consider covering 15 acres eventually.

ADMIN – Hi Jeff,

The systems all come with 20 gauge standard from the manufacturer (except Dogtra – they use 18 gauge). The manufacturers all recommend 20 gauge and in our experience it works great. Some folks think that the slightly thicker 18/16 gauge last longer – that has not been the case in our experience, anything that cuts the 20 gauge (power edgers and power aerators) cuts the thicker wire just as easily.

I think the rumor got started because some of the full service installation companies like invisible fence use the thicker wire. But, the reason they use the thicker wire is to hold up to being ripped through the ground with an industrial trencher.

The only place where the thicker wire makes sense is where you are doing very long distances (think 10,000 feet of 50+ acres), where the lower resistance of the thicker wire starts to come into play

All that said, the upgrade to thicker wire is inexpensive and won’t hurt (it is a bit harder to work with). If the thicker wire makes a customer feel better, we offer it as a courtesy. Our candid advice is that you don’t need it and there are better uses of your money. For what it is worth, none of us use it with our own dog fence systems.

Julia November 29, 2010 at 7:54 pm

Hi
I have read just about every comment and answer on your site and like others have found it very helpful. I have a 40 foot boundary which I would like to fence without encroaching on safe area [all other boundary is enclosed already and a single loop won’t work for a number of reasons] and need to be able to use the double looped system. My understanding is that I need a separation of 6 feet between wires which [too severely] cuts 9 feet off yard area, at a 3 foot setting. Essentially i need to know the closest i can possibly run the wires without fear of problems please.

ADMIN – You can get a little closer than six feet if you turn down the boundary width. With the boundary set at 3 feet wide you can probably get as close as 4 feet. But, much closer and it gets very dicey.

Luane November 29, 2010 at 7:08 pm

I want to install an invisible fence but do not know what to do when you have a concrete driveway? I want her to have the run of the whole yard.

ADMIN – Hi Luane,

The easiest way to get across a concrete driveway is to find an expansion joint, clean it out, place the wire in the joint and caulk over it. If you don’t have an expansion joint you will just cut a shallow slot with a circular saw and masonry blade, lay the wire in the slot, then caulk over it.

For a lot more information on getting your dog fence across a driveway, take a look at our driveways page.

Mason/Dexter November 25, 2010 at 1:01 pm

This is a question that goes with Kris W. Nov. 6, 2009. I have a property that I want to only give them access if I am with them and they’re in sight and another section of the property if I can’t see them. How do I set-up the system with a switch to let me go from one configuration to the other? The system that I have is Innotek iuc-5100.

ADMIN – Hi Mason & Dexter,

The simplest way is to just have two completely separate layouts going into the control box. Then attach a switch to both the circuits for the inside layout and the outside layout so that when you flick the switch it breaks or connects the circuit for each layout. The current going through the wire is very weak so you don’t need a very fancy switch.

As with Kris, I would caution against having a switched system with two different layouts. Setting up the system is easy, but training the dogs on two different layouts is more difficult and should only be attempted by dog owners will a little more confidence and experience.

Michael November 22, 2010 at 11:54 am

You guys have been incredibly helpful but I hit a few snags putting in my Innotek 4100 fence.

1) I want an all yard system where dogs can go front back easily especially since they love to chase each other around the house in circles. Dogs love circles. However when they do this they cut corners and end up running through our mulch beds throwing mulch all over the grass and ending up dirtier than they need to be. What I learned is I can use a double wire to connect my perimeter loop to the mulch beds via twisted wire connecting the two so that handles that problem. But how do I exclude mulch beds close to the house when the perimeter wire is 40 feet from the house.

2) Another question again is the mulch beds, if it is a closed loop system if i dead end a wire in a mulch bed cut a foot off the end and spice it right back into the wire will that fool the transmiter into a closed loop system. )

3) How close can one get to utility lines before twenty gauge is canceled out and is there any way to strengthen the signal to overcome it

4) Can I create two loops using one transmitter where the perimeter wires are plugged in as one loop and into the same transmitter can i place the mulch bed wires or will that short my system? I have the technical skill to do this but my vision of how to do things has always been sluggish so I am trying to figure out the wire layout and can’t get the whole thing working at once.

ADMIN – Hi Michael

1) To handle mulched beds 40 feet from the perimeter, you can run the twisted wire from the perimeter to the mulch bed, then run a loop around the bed that starts and ends at the twisted wire.

Alternatively, you could use some of the outdoor pods with your Innotek IUC-4100 system. They can operate independently of the main fence and could be used to block off the mulched beds without having to run the wire from the main perimeter back to each bed.

2) No, the whole system needs to have a continuous circuit of wire, starting and finishing at the control box with no dead ends or three-way intersections. You will run the pair of twisted wire to the mulched-bed. The loop will start from one of the twisted pair of wires, and will terminate at the other. This video and these diagrams on twisted wire may help.

3) The reason we want you to avoid long stretches parallel and close to utilities is that sometimes the dog fence signal leaks into those utility pipes and wire. Then everywhere those utilities run act like they are part of the dog fence. (so a power outlet will trigger the collar) This doesn’t happen often, but if you are going to run boundary wire close and parallel to the utilities it is prudent to go check around the house and the yard with the collar to make sure you aren’t getting the collar triggering in the wrong places. If you are, you want to try and move the boundary wire further away from the utilities and make it less parallel. Turn down the signal strength helps (turning it up tends to make the problem worse).

4) You can have multiple loops. The best way to join them together is to create you primary loop (it does not matter which loop you designate as the primary loop). Then splice the twisted wire into any section of that primary loop to branch off and form the secondary loops.

The way you suggest where each loop independently plugs into the control box does work. But, each loop will have a different boundary wideness. The short loops will have extremely wide boundaries and the longer loops will have extremely narrow boundaries (meaning the dog has to get very close to the wire before the collar triggers) – which is highly undesirable and usually the opposite of what you want.

Also when all the loops are independent you will not know if you get a break in one of the loops because the system will not alert you with the boundary break alarm..

Pamela Geiser November 18, 2010 at 4:01 pm

Will an electric horse fence interfere with this system?

ADMIN – Hi Pamela,

Interference with electric horse or cattle fences is rare, but does happen. The best way to tell, is to string up a small section of the dog fence next to the cattle fence – and then test with the collar to make sure it is still triggering. If there is interference you will want to separate them by 10 feet.

Nick November 17, 2010 at 7:54 pm

On the Backyard Dog Fence Layout where the wire goes across the top of the roof to allow the entrance into the house, could I install twisted wire across the entire length of the house instead and just lay it like the rest of the wire ?

ADMIN – Hi Nick,

You cannot use the twisted wire across the back of the house to make the fourth side of your fence. There is unfortunately no good way to avoid having a complete loop (i.e. all four sides) that is all single wire.

Rick S November 17, 2010 at 10:14 am

Can a wired system be setup to enclose (surround) an area of a backyard that I don’t want my dogs to go into?

Think of it as subdividing a large rectangular rear yard that’s already totally enclosed by a physical fence into two areas. I’d enclose the back 50% of the rectangle with the wireless fence so the dogs are free to do their thing in the front non-wire surrounded rectangle (closest to the house) but are stopped from entering the rear rectangle by the wireless fence where I don’t want them to go.

Thanks

ADMIN – Hi Rick,

You can use a system to exclude the dogs from an area. How big is the area? If it is a relatively small area, you can the pawz-away rock to do the job – it is much cheaper and easier to install than a full system, but can only cover a small distance (16 feet in diameter if operated wirelessly, or 150 feet of boundary wire if you use it in wired mode)

Nick November 10, 2010 at 10:38 pm

I read all the questions above and I still managed to have one of my own. We live in a duplex so I need to cover half the front and back yard as well as the side which contains the driveway. What is the best way to run along the perimeter of the yard but also through the house so our dog can use both the front and back doors? I’m assuming I would have to go through the basement or up over the roof? Also, depending on the route through, over or under the house what do you think the best way to hook into the close the loop into the receiver box?

ADMIN – Hi Nick.

For a duplex or semi-attached, we usually find it easiest to complete the loop by going up over the roof. You can also go down below through a basement if you have one, just be sure the basement is not an area you want the dog to be able to use.

After making your boundary loop, splice in the twisted pair of wires to connect the loop to the control box. The control box can go anywhere, you will not be using it much once your system is installed. I will usually try and hide it in a garage, closet, basement or attic. Any place that is protected from the weather will work.

Brad November 8, 2010 at 8:06 pm

I would like to install a single sided boundary as illustrated in your diagram but I do not want to have to cross the driveway twice. Could you use a shielded wire for half of the loop and the regular wire for the other half and bury them in the same trench? Is there any other way that you could make a single sided boundary and only have to make one trench?
Thanks, Brad

ADMIN – Hi Brad,

Afraid there is no getting round having that return wire to close the loop and the wires do need to be separated by about six feet – so I am afraid you will need to make a second crossing. We have never had any luck with using shielding, it doesn’t tend to work consistently and you are likley to get cancellation if you try and cross back in the same place. The only way to cross back in the same place without getting cancellation is to cross high overhead.

Jen November 6, 2010 at 9:19 pm

We tried to install an invisible fence and encircle our house, but ran into some problems with the signal coming into the house. We thought it might be coming from the underground power lines being to close to the boundary wire. So to test if the power lines were the problem, we laid the boundary wire in the back yard only and away from the house and any wires. We encircled about 1/4 acre in the backyard.

We tested the system and found that if we turned the field up to the highest setting, the dog collar was picking up the signal in the entire backyard. There wasn’t one place in the entire backyard that was not “hot.” Our system (PetSafe) was only supposed to be able to broadcast a 10′ to 12′ signal (which is a maximum of 5′ to 6′ on either side of the wire). We were at least 30′ from any boundary wire, but still were picking up the signal.

What causes this? We are also concerned about dog safety with a system that would allow a signal to travel 30+ feet from a boundary wire with just the simple turning of a knob.

PS: Forgot to say thanks for all of the good information on your site!

ADMIN – Hi Jen,

That sounds normal. When you have a small yard, you need to turn the field setting (boundary width dial) down otherwise it will blanket the entire yard and then some. Also make sure you have the boundary size setting switch turned down to the lowest setting (That is the “B” setting on most PetSafe systems, I suspect you have it on the highest setting). The reason that you can generate such wide boundaries on your small installation is that the system need to be powerful enough to do 25 acres, and for those installations the field setting will be turned all the way up, for a 1/4 acre installation you will need to turn it all the way down. You want to adjust the boundary width so that it is about 3-5 feet on either side of the boundary wire.

sue November 5, 2010 at 2:26 pm

Is there a kind of pipe that I could run the wire through that would block the signal in certain places? I have a bunch of old lead pipes in the garage.

ADMIN – Hi Sue,

We haven’t found there to be any way to block the signal through a pipe. I’ve contacted the various manufactures of these systems as well and they’ve confirmed that it isn’t possible.

Joyce October 30, 2010 at 5:30 pm

In the 25 acre fence system does it require additional wire or does the package contain sufficient wire to cover the entire area?

ADMIN – Hi Joyce,

Most systems come with 500 feet of wire, 50 flags, and 2 splices, which is good for about one-third of an acre. Extra boundary wire kits which include an addtional 500 feet of wire, 50 flags, and 2 splices cost $30 each. For 25 acres, you will need about 5,000 feet of wire total.

Dana October 26, 2010 at 4:10 pm

I do agree very informative site you have. I just need a quick clarification…..if I am only protecting the backyard and need to double loop using the ground and the fence, is 5 feet tall fence tall enough if the wire is laid at the fences’ feet?

ADMIN – Hi Dana,

5 feet is pretty tight – you could make it work, but you would have to have a pretty narrow boundary width setting of around 3 feet. That is not too bad if the backyard is fenced, since the fence acts as a deterent and slows down the dog if they are trying to escape, making it harder to run through the correction zone.

Gale October 16, 2010 at 2:02 pm

I am looking into buying the Innotek 4100 system for my pitbull that insists on digging her way out of the yard. I have a totally enclosed fenced back yard that has a metal shed in the middle of it. My questions are 1) Can the wire be ran through the fence so I wouldn’t have to do any digging? 2) Would it work if the shed was between the transmitter and the back of the fence 3) I have to exits to the back through a side door and the deck door-could I run the wire over both sides of the door so she could go out without a shock and also under the deck? Being a single woman that has to do this myself I need the easiest installation options. I have an inside dog pen that is fenced across the bottom and the top but she has just broke through the wire. I really don’t want to have to take her back to the pound but I work and can’t just leave her in the house all the time. Thanks.

ADMIN – Hi Gale,

(1) Yes, the wire does not have to be buried. Attaching it to a fence works just as well.

(2) With a wired system a metal fence in the middle of your property is not a big deal (it would block the signal if you were using a wireless fence). Sometimes if a metal shed is within six feet of the boundary line, the dog fence signal can jump from the line into the shed metal and then the dog can’t go near the shed – it is rare, still if you had that kind of layout you would want to test the area around the metal shed to make sure that was not happening. But again, that should not be an issue if the shed is in the middle of the property.

(3) Going over those door is the right way to do it. I prefer going even higher and going up a rainspout, across the gutters and down the downspout on the other side. It lets you get a little higher up and is hidden so doesn’t spoil the look of the house. It is easy if you have (or borrow) a nice long ladder.

Also if, the Pitbull is particularly hard headed, consider the PetSafe Stubborn instead of the Innotek.

gary linthicum October 16, 2010 at 10:42 am

I have a completely fenced backyard, but just want to exclude my dogs from the pool area. Can I just make my complete loop around the pool area to exclude the dogs from the area contained in the loop or does the system only work with the dogs inside the loop? Also, my main concern is a pool diving Dachshund puppy. Is there a collar small enough for small puppies?

Thanks,
Gary

ADMIN – Hi Gary,

1) Yes, you can keep your dogs out of the pool with a boundary loop, the boundary wire can be laid so as to exclude the dogs from an area instead of keeping them enclosed.

2) Yes, the PetSafe Little Dog Fence is small enough for dogs over 4lbs. One thing to keep in mind is that you probably want to wait till six months to contain said aquatic Dachshund. Before 6 months, dogs usually don’t have enough maturity in terms of attention span to do the training. After six months training is much easier and quicker.

Christina Waltman October 15, 2010 at 4:59 pm

Thanks so much for your site, it’s very helpful. We purchased an invisible fence and are planning our installation. We live in a semi detached house, looking out the front we are attached on the right side. We have a front, side, and back yard that we would like to be open for our dog to roam about. We have a daylight basement with a sliding glass door and a deck above it with a sliding glass door. We were planning to run the wire straight out the front right side(next to our attached neighbors house) towards the road and all around the front, side and back yards and bring it straight to the back side of the house,then run the wire up the back of the house and straight across the roof and down the front to meet up with the other end of the wire and run it into the house to mount the box. We are now concerned that our dog will not be able to get near the front and back of the house where the wire is running. Our front windows are about 3 feet from the edge of the house where the wire would run. Obviously we wouldn’t want to keep our dog from the window! Will this plan work or is there some other idea that would work better? We want all 3 doors on the house to be accessible and we don’t have enough area to make a double loop around the whole yard since it would need to be 6 feet apart.

ADMIN – Hi Christina,

You have the right idea for your layout, that is the best way to do a semi-detached. You will have to experiment with adjusting the boundary width once you have the wire in place so that the signal does not leak into the house. Use the collars to detect if the signal is getting into the house, and if it is reduce the boundary width (by turning the boundary width dial anti-clockwise) until the collars will not go off in the house. Remember there is a small amount of wobble in the boundary so build in a small safety buffer of 20% of the total boundary width. With 3 feet of separation between the wire and the front of the house you should be able to get a workable boundary width that does not leak into the house.

Heather October 14, 2010 at 1:19 pm

We’re considering an electric fence for our dog. I have two questions.

Typically, how close can the dog comfortably get to the fencing? We have a dog house outside for shelter that is currently in the corner of the yard and I wouldn’t want to inadvertently keep out dog from using it. How much space should I consider unavailable for dog use near the fence?

Second, how do you deal with the driveway and wire? We’re renting and while I’m reasonably certain our landlord will let us bury a wire, I’m certain he will not permit us to dig up his driveway.

ADMIN – You can set the distance the dog can get to the fence by turning a dial on the control box. You can have the boundary anywhere from a couple of inches up to 10+ feet on either side of the fence. We recommend you set the boundary up at between 3 and 5 feet on either side of the wire. You will also want to leave an extra 3 feet of safety buffer, the dogs will be cautious after training and most will stay about 3 feet back from where the warning beep actually starts.

For driveways, the easiest way to go is to find an expansion joint and place the wire in the joint, then caulk over to seal the wire in place. If there isn’t an expansion joint, a shallow cut with a circular saw will do the trick. You can also just lay the wire over the driveway. Exposed wire will wear down and need replacing every couple of years, but that is no big deal.

Sterling October 4, 2010 at 1:20 am

Our house has 2 large side yards. I want to enclose the sides and back of the house as the dog area, so I want to do a outline of a C as a loop around the house. However, the inside line of the C will go under the deck in the back where we enter and exit. Can I do a 3 wire twisted pair there (i.e. a twisted pair, then a third wire twisted over it) to cancel out that part so the dog can go out the back deck?

That is, in the back of the house, there is an active wire along the back of the property (this connects to the side yard wire) and then to connect them, a triple wire under the deck just beside the foundation, which should not give a signal due to twisted wire.

Can I do that? Will the triple wire cancel out?

ADMIN – Hi Sterling,

Unfortunately, twisted wire only works as a pair. The third wire will be active. The best option is to run the wire either up and over through the gutters, or far enough below the deck so that your dog can walk out of range of the signal either under it or over it. If you haven’t seen our planning page, you can see the most common installation layouts.

Karen September 27, 2010 at 11:52 am

Hi
We have a creek that borders our property and would like to put the wire next to the creek. We may not be able financially to bury the wire right now. The creek does flood now and again. Lets say we just lay it on the ground with lawn staples for now(until spring). What are the risk to the fence(washing/floating) itself?

Thanks

ADMIN – Hi Karen,

If you use lawn staples like the ones we sell, I’d say the risk is very minimal. The lawn staples we sell are about 7 inches long, so I’d imagine if very difficult for the wire to float. However, I would recommend that you space the staples out no wider than 5 feet apart.

Veronica September 2, 2010 at 12:59 pm

What a wonderful explanation site you have ! Very thankful I found it ! Am curious as we already have a thin gauge metal fence to contain our dogs but on their determined days they can dig under it and get out. Can I run the wire “attached” to this existing metal fence for it’s full length ? (maybe by interweaving the wire through the existing rectangular spaces in the fence) Or would that interfere with the signal ? Concerned because one dog is large and there’s a couple children in the area…though he’s “playing” they are very afraid..so would like him safely to stay in the yard always. Thank you for any insight you might have !
Veronica

ADMIN – Hi Veronica,

Running the wire on your fence will work perfectly. Large, flat surface area metal is what usually causes interference problems. I think you’ll be fine in your case and will solve your escaping dogs problem.

Tom P August 26, 2010 at 10:54 pm

I’m in the process of laying out our system (just bought the Innotek 4100 from you) and have a situation along one side of our property. There’s about 10 feet between the edge of our driveway and the property line. About 6 -8 feet inside the property line is a utility line that powers a street light in the front of our property. Based on the mark left by the utility, this line seems to run from the pad-mounted transformer in the back of the yard, all the way around the edge of the property and then down alongside the driveway. If I leave a 3-4 foot buffer between the property line and the dog fence wire, I’ll only be 1-2 feet away from the this line. If I go by the book and go 10 feet in from the utility line, I’ll be running the dog fence line basically down the middle of the driveway for 75 feet or so. What are the chances that there would be enough interference from a street light power line? (i.e I don’t no what current it’s carrying but it’s just powering a single bulb – my guess is a few amps max?). Thanks, Tom

ADMIN – Hi Tom,

Most of the time you will be fine. I would just lay the wire on the surface and test the system to make sure you aren’t getting the signal in any weird places like along the utility line or in your house near power outlets. The concern is that the signal from the dog fence wire will jump into that utility wire and everywhere where that utility wire runs will emit the dog fence boundary signal. It doesn’t happen often, but better to be safe than sorry!

In the off chance that you do get some sort of signal leakage into the utility wire, you want to move the boundary wire further away, run it at more of an angle so that it is not parallel, or turn down your boundary width (or some combination thereof) until you no longer get that effect.

Lori Kelly August 26, 2010 at 8:58 pm

I am going to buy the innoteck 400 from you if it will work with my set up. Currently my yard has a back and partial side fence. I would like to finish the containment with an electric fence. That would mean one side that is about 40 feet long and then take a left and about 20 feet to the edge of the house. Then down the other side there is about an 8 foot opening on the other side of the house from the edge of the house to the other side of the fence. My question is does it have to be a continuous loop for it to work. These would not be continuous. it would be basically 60 feet with a 90 degree attachment to the house. Then there would be about 8 feet. Can you let me know if this would work?

ADMIN – Hi Lori,

You do have to have a continuous loop for it to work.

What you could do to complete the loop is to run the wire along the top of the fence in the parts of the boundary where you don’t want the dog to get the correction. When you run the wire on top of the fence, the height of the wire stops the collar triggering at ground level. To cross the house, you can run the wire up a downspout and along the gutter line – then down the downspout on the other side of the house.

If you email us a diagram of the property, we would be happy to help you design a layout.

Tammy August 19, 2010 at 2:36 pm

You have an awesome sight and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge so freely. Would it be okay to leave the wire unburied and just use garden staples to anchor it to the ground? Thanks, Tammy

ADMIN – Hi Tammy,

Yes, that is a very common, safe, and acceptable installation method for any in ground fence you have. You probably don’t want to do above ground if it is an area that is mowed with a lawn mower as this will tend to tear up the wire. But, in unmown sections it works great. Also, thanks for the feedback!

Robert Boomershine August 8, 2010 at 10:25 pm

Hello. My wife and I are going to contain our dogs on 4.4 acres, with the entire area being open for them to run. What gauge wire would work best in this application?
Thanks in advance.

ADMIN – Hi Robert,

The manufacture recommends using 20 gauge. Using larger wire will not add to the functionality of the system. You can use heavier gauge wire and have seen people install as large as 12 and 14 gauge, but it doesn’t make the system work any better.

Krista August 7, 2010 at 1:20 pm

Thanks for your quick responses! I am so glad I found this site!

If I find a siding clip small enough for 20 gauge wire, I will definately pass the info along. My searching so far has not been promising though, which leads me to my next question… Did I read correctly that the wire can be laid INSIDE the rain gutter? And can it be put INSIDE the downspout? I’m picturing the wire going up one downspout, across the house inside the gutter, and then down the other downspout. Is that safe for the wire? For what it’s worth I live near Chicago so we have snowy, icy winters. Thanks again!

ADMIN – Hi Krista,

The wire can indeed be run inside the gutter and inside the downspout gutter. It is waterproof. You can also run it under the eaves or behind the downspout – the only reason we suggest inside the gutter is that it is easy and not visible.

Krista August 5, 2010 at 6:36 pm

Thank you so much for your AWESOME sight! I just purchased a system from your site and intend to fence our backyard. To complete the loop I will be running the wire up on the house. I have siding; any ideas as to how to secure the wire to siding (easy ideas!!!!)?

I intend to mount the receiver box inside my laundry room on the back of my house. Can I just bring the wires in through the window? In other words, could it be as simple as running the wires through the open window and then closing the window over the wires? Would that crush or damage them? This is a window that we NEVER open / close so the wire would not be “messed with”. Thanks!!!!

Thanks a million!

ADMIN – Hi Krista,

Thanks for the feedback! And thank you for your order! As for the siding, I’m not exactly sure. I’d imagine there’s some kind of fastener Home Depot or Lowes sells that will help you with that. If you do locate an easy method or fastener made for siding, please let us know.

Many customers run the boundary wire out a window. I’d cut a short test piece of wire and try it out and see if it’ll be okay. You want to take care that the insulation on the wire does not get damaged.

Bob August 2, 2010 at 8:41 pm

Will a lawn irrigation system interfere with the underground fence system?

ADMIN – Hi Bob,

It should not be an issue at all.

Tim Crosby July 17, 2010 at 7:13 pm

Thanks for the wonderful info. I am planning out my system and would love your assistance before purchasing (from you!)

I basically have a square lot with the house in the center. We need the fence on three sides but not the fourth, which is a wood fence the dogs like to lean against to get out of the sun. I do not have enough room on one side to just make a double loop back (don’t have 9 feet before the yard area) so am trying to figure out how to loop wire down the ‘shade’ fence.

I am thinking of making one large loop, then making another loop that is twisted out to that shade fence, then twists up and down that side to fully deactivate it. The question: can I run a twist involving three runs of wire instead of two: the main loop line, plus the second line that is fully twisted either on itself then the main line, or just fully braided with the main line?

Thank you.

ADMIN – Hi Tim,

Unfortunately twisting three wires will reactivate the line. There is really no way to avoid having a full loop of active single wire. If that shade fence is high enough (6+ feet) – one thing you could do is run the wire along the very top of that fence. The vertical height over the dogs would let them go right up to the base of the fence without getting the correction.

Mike Murray July 16, 2010 at 12:34 pm

Have a question concerning installation. We are buying a house with 2.6 acres that is 95% fenced. The only open area that we want to wireless fence is the driveway entrance. Can we make a loop around the driveway/gate area only? Or do the dogs have to be contained inside the loop?

ADMIN – Hi Mike,

You have two options:

(1) Use one of the Pawz Away Outdoor Zone Pods – and create a small loop just across the driveway entrance. This option will be a lot easier and cheaper. But, the outdoor zone systems are not quite as high quality. I would try this option first.

(2) Use a Full System – you would run twisted wire from the transmitter (in the house or garage) out to the driveway, then do a small loop at the driveway or gate area.

The small loop would just cross the driveway at the point you want to block them, then cross back somewhere six plus feet away. This small loop will create a barrier. The dogs do not need to be contained in the loop, you can use the loop as a barrier too.

Sheryl Hawks July 16, 2010 at 7:48 am

Hello,

We recently purchased a Petsafe fence for our German Shepard. Our neighbor already has an electrical fence installed along the property line. How close to the neighbors fence can I place our fence? Also, if I want to try the back yard installation over the back of the house, how high up does the wire need to be so the dog can enter the house safely? Thank you

Sheryl

ADMIN – Hi Sheryl,

You want to keep your fence wire twelve feet from the neighbor’s fence wire. Otherwise you will get the two fences interfering along the common boundary and neither will work on that common boundary. Another option is to use the Perimeter Technologies or newly updated SportDog SDF-100 – these systems let you adjust the transmission frequency so that you can avoid interfering with your neighbor’s system.

The vertical clearance you need over the dog depends on how wide you have the boundary set up. I like to add three feet of safety space to the boundary width. So if you want the boundary to be four feet wide, I would want seven feet of clearance over the dog’s head to be comfortable with the installation.

Joan Merriam June 22, 2010 at 3:38 pm

I just installed the Innotek IUC4100 around appx. 2 acres of my property, but have a physical fence that lies along one section of the property line (maybe 300 feet long). There’s a pathway that runs directly alongside the fence that I want my dog to be able to follow, but I need to have the boundary wire far enough away so he doesn’t get zapped or warned. Since I have a nasty neighbor on that side, asking him if I can run the wire on his property isn’t an option…so here’s my question: presuming I have the boundary width set to between 5 & 6 feet, can I run the boundary wire along the top of the 6-foot high fence without fear of giving my dog a correction? Is this my best and/or only option (other than digging a 7-foot-deep trench…NOT!!)?

ADMIN – Hi Joan,

Elevating the wire to the top of the fence is a great way to reduce the distance that signal travels. If the fence is six foot high, I might turn down the boundary width to 3-4 feet just to be conservative and give hte dog a bit of a safety buffer when walking on the pathway.

Charlie June 17, 2010 at 2:55 pm

I would like to run a complete loop right around our property, with the wire crossing our driveway through the expansion joint closer to the road. I would like the coverage on the driveway to prevent them from having free access.
My question is do I have to remove the collar everytime we take them in the car (once a day sometimes more) to prevent them from getting zapped as we back down the driveway, or will the car itself protect them from the shock. Thank You

ADMIN – Hi Charlie,

Sometimes the height of the car above the ground lets you drive them over without triggering the collar. But this is hit and miss. I like to play it safe and always take the collar off the dog before taking them for a ride in the car.

Laura June 16, 2010 at 12:18 pm

Hi, my question is coming from a totally different application. I live on a farm and would like to fence completely around my house to keep the dog away from the house. He is a destructive dog that likes to tear up EVERYTHING!! But he is great with the kids and we have given him freerange over our 120 acre farm. What (if any) feedback do you have from customers who wish to use the underground dog fence in this manner?? If it helps it is a large 2 year old lab and maybe not the smartest dog in the pack.

ADMIN – Hi Laura,

You can use a system the opposite way to most people to keep the dog away from the house. This is usually very easy, and requires even less training, because the dog cannot run through the boundary and gets the correction continuously untill the retreat back away from the house.

You just install the wire, around the perimeter of the house, put up the flags, and then train the dog in much the same way you would if you were doing containment.

paul June 9, 2010 at 9:25 pm

I need to keep my dog from going into one neighbors yard, but is ok for him to go into the yard on the opposite side of mine. Conventionally this would be a long thin loop (6 ft min spacing) only on one side of my yard. But this is very long, about 400ft. How much current is in the wire? Would it be possible to use the earth for the return and use only a single wire one way to a ground stake at the far end? The return contact on the transmitter would of course also have to be grounded through a similar stake. This would allow burying the wire only in 400ft instead of 2x 400ft. (this is how telephone wire worked in years gone by….only one wire run and the earth as the return path)

ADMIN – Hi Paul,

That’s not a solution we believe can work. The system only works in a continuous loop. 800 feet of wire isn’t a problem. Most of the systems like the Innotek 4100 have a capacity of 5,000 feet of wire. The difference in cost between running 400 and 800 feet of wire is around 20 dollars.

Samantha May 27, 2010 at 5:17 pm

My husband and I just moved into a new house last October. We have two dogs: a Basset Hound and a Black Mouth Cur. They are both outside-only dogs. The Basset is a real escape artist. We used to live on 30 acres and she would frequently escape her pen. We ran an electric fence around the whole thing, but we would have to turn it off to go in and out of the pen so it wouldn’t shock us when we opened the gate. Now we live in a neighborhood and I don’t think it would be safe to have the electric fence on the backyard fence in case someone unknowingly got shocked. The Basset has just discovered (after 6 months) that she can push under the yard fence and has gotten out twice in the last week. My dilemma is that in your training guide you talk about only using your system for 15 minutes 3 times a day before you let them go off the leash. Since they are outdoor-only dogs, they would need to wear it all of the time until they learned the boundary. How would you suggest we do this? And, since we take our dogs on walks almost daily, how do you suggest we train them if the only way in and out of the yard is through the gate with the boundary? I need something that will be effective immediately for the safety of my dog since she is not used to living near a street with traffic.

ADMIN – Hi Samantha,

If you’re dogs stay in the yard 24 hours, when you go to work contain the dogs however you were containing them before. If you need to crate or chain them, do it … it is a lot better than the dog continually escaping and being put at danger, it is just a short term measure.

As for the collar, you can try leaving the collar on 24/7 – lots of people do and it creates no problem, but be careful and check the neck every day for the first two weeks, then every week – a small number of dogs will get a skin reaction.

If you want to exercise your dog during training take the collar off and carry the dog over the boundary, or put them in the car and drive them over. You have to do something that makes it clear it is a very different context. Once they are trained we can train them to go through normally on command.

Destiny McDermott May 24, 2010 at 9:51 am

Hi, having trouble with my layout. We dont have many options to place the box so it has to be on the inside wall of the kitchen in back of the house. The problem is that in order to complete the loop we have to come around the house then up the center of the yard with twisted wire to connect to the box. The twisted wire will be about 30 feet long. Is that ok? No place in the garage for an outlet and the front porch sometimes get rain under there. It is just like the diagram shown where the twisted wire comes up the side of the house to complete to loop but mine will be up the center of the yard. Thanks!

ADMIN – Hi Destiny,

There’s no distance limitations with twisted wire, so 30 feet is absolutely okay.

Steve H. May 23, 2010 at 1:49 pm

I bought the Smart Dog system, but after seeing your video review (and having a similar initial reaction when first going through the box contents), I don’t want to waste my time installing it. So, here’s my question:

When we bought our house about 10 years ago it already had a hidden fence system, but we didn’t get a dog until about two years ago. By now, I have probably severed the line in a few places during various landscaping projects. Is it worth the effort to try to locate and repair the disconnects or just start from scratch? Also, assuming I can get the line fixed, will it work with any new system I buy?

ADMIN – Hi Steve,

I recommend installing new boundary wire. It’s not worth the headache in time and energy to repair an old boundary wire. If you rent an EZ Trench TP 400 or TP 300, you can run your new wire in half a days time. This trencher will dig a 3″ trench, lay the wire, back fill it, and make you a sandwich. While, I can’t guarantee the sandwich, I’m certain it will do the first three very well.

Jessi May 20, 2010 at 9:58 pm

We are considering purchasing one of the Innotek systems from you. However, before we do that we were wondering about the 500 ft. of wire that comes along. We have a 2.5 acre lot, so obviously 500 feet of wire is not going to enclose our lot. One of our friends told us that the more splicing you do, the weaker your system is and the more prone to breakages. If that is the case, we were wondering if you sold rolls of wire larger than 500 ft?

ADMIN – Hi Jessi,

We only sell the wire in 500 foot increments. Your local electrical supply store may be able to get you something bigger.

Splicing the wire is no big deal and make no difference to the system, it will not weaken the system or leave you more prone to breaks. Just, make sure when you splice to knot the wire first to make sure no tension goes on the joint and you should be all good. (this quick video may help)

http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/splicing-the-cable/

debra hedrick May 13, 2010 at 12:53 am

Would this modification to the backyard option work? Instead of running the wire around the front of the house , across the roof, or creating a double loop, could one use twisted wire across the back of the house to close the loop?

ADMIN – Hi Debra,

Unfortunately you cannot run the twisted wire as part of the loop – if you do it will act like single wire and be active. The twisted wire only works when used to connect (a) one loop to another loop; or (b) one loop to the control box.

Adam May 4, 2010 at 10:03 pm

I need to run part of my loop under my gravel driveway. I heard that I can use metal conduit burried 2″ deep. But I also heard that will cancel out the signal the same way that twisting the wire will. What are my other options for burying under gravel driveway ? PVC ?

ADMIN – Hi Adam,

We usually don’t have any problems with metal conduit. It certainly does not reliably cancel out signals, often it will amplify them. If you want something neutral that will have not effect on signals, we usually use flexible irrigation pipe (for underground sprinkler systems), or an old garden hose pipe – both are very cheap and available at any hardware store, the flexibility and smaller diameter make them easier to work with than PVC. PVC works too, but we find it a bit harder to work with, especially for long runs – you cannot for example use it with a trencher.

Jocelyn May 4, 2010 at 12:51 pm

We have 2 Ridgebacks and we’ve been in our home for 6+ years and have a fully fenced chain linked fence. I don’t know the exact dimensions but I think our back yard is ~6500 square feet.

What I want to do is use the dog fence to train them to “go” in one section of the yard. They currently have the run of the yard and I’d like to begin keeping part of it clean so that WE can use it too :-). We also want to let them continue to play in the entire back yard, but just train them to “go” only in the designated section. Would this bee too confusion? We’ve considered creating a “dog run” with the installation of additional traditional chain link fencing, but that would be prohibitively expensive. Would installing a dog fence be a suitable solution?

ADMIN – Hi Jocelyn,

A dog fence would not be a great solution. Once a dog is trained on an electric dog fence, it will be very not want to play on the other side of the fence, even if you give the dog permission. I think you would likely end up permanently limiting the dogs to using only half the yard.

Dave April 28, 2010 at 11:19 am

I have a 5 ft. aluminum fence on both sides of my lot and a chain link fence in back on my neighbors lot. Can i attach it to them?

ADMIN – Hi Dave,

Attaching the wire to the chain link fence is fine. But, a sheet metal aluminum fence is trickier. Sometimes that fence will magnify the signal and you will get a very big boundary in that area. The only way to know for sure is to test out a small section.

Jim April 28, 2010 at 9:01 am

I have a problem. I would like to prevent the dogs from digging out of our fenced backyard, however i would also like the dog to be able to retrieve his ball if it ends up being tossed next to the fence. Additionally i would like the dog to be able to go out in the front yard, what is the easiest way to make this happen. May house layout is almost identical to the drawing shown with the hour glass layout.

ADMIN – Hi Jim,

Afraid for the fence to work, you will have to stop the dogs being able to go near the edge of the property. So if a tossed ball ends up going too near the fence, you will have to retrieve it yourself, as the dogs once trained will not want to go near the fence.

If you want the dogs to be able to freely roam between the front and back, a big loop around the entire perimeter works best. If you want them to be able to use the front and back but not cross back and forth, then the hourglass layout is a better choice.

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