<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Laying out the Wire</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com</link>
	<description></description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 28 Jul 2010 03:36:12 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2</generator>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
		<item>
		<title>By: Jennifer</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-2234</link>
		<dc:creator>Jennifer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Jul 2010 12:50:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-2234</guid>
		<description>we had someone from Invisible Fence out yesterday, and when they learned our neighbors had buried their power line on our property line, right where we&#039;d like to put the invisible fence.  They said it was OK because their (digital) system had been validated by the FCC or something like that, and in only extremely rare instances would it mis-fire the collars.  Is this true of all systems, or just of the Invisible Fence?
Thanks

ADMIN - Hi Jennifer,

Most collars will not be affected by systems that are from another brand.  Some systems like the Invisible Fence, the Perimeter Technologies systems, and the new SportDog systems allow you to switch frequencies to avoid interference with neighboring systems.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>we had someone from Invisible Fence out yesterday, and when they learned our neighbors had buried their power line on our property line, right where we&#8217;d like to put the invisible fence.  They said it was OK because their (digital) system had been validated by the FCC or something like that, and in only extremely rare instances would it mis-fire the collars.  Is this true of all systems, or just of the Invisible Fence?<br />
Thanks</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Jennifer,</p>
<p>Most collars will not be affected by systems that are from another brand.  Some systems like the Invisible Fence, the Perimeter Technologies systems, and the new SportDog systems allow you to switch frequencies to avoid interference with neighboring systems.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jery Vaughn</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-2209</link>
		<dc:creator>Jery Vaughn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Jul 2010 19:35:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-2209</guid>
		<description>I have an inactive electric fence around my property.  The wire is, of course, on insulators and made of aluminum which is cheap, doesn&#039;t rust or corrode (more than the light coat of oxidation it will always have) and is an excellent conductor.  I understand that your underground wire is intended to carry RF signals.  I think the aluminum wire I have around the property (about 18 acres) might carry the same signal.  What would transpire were I to connect the pet deterrent signal generator to the fence wire (the regular fence charger would not be used).  Also, I note that your wire appears to be insulated.  Were the insulation to break could the signal be shorted to ground (I doubt it but needed to ask.)  Thanks,  GV

ADMIN - Hi Jery,

The system doesn&#039;t work well on a bare wire.  When the wire is uninsulated, anything touching the wire becomes part of the transmission loop and distorts the signal.  (Much in the same way that the new iPhone aerial is sensitive to being touched)  For this reason, if the insulation gets stripped, you often get a drop off in performance as the current shorts to ground.

That said, if you already have the wire set up around your home - you can always give it a shot.  Let us know how it works.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have an inactive electric fence around my property.  The wire is, of course, on insulators and made of aluminum which is cheap, doesn&#8217;t rust or corrode (more than the light coat of oxidation it will always have) and is an excellent conductor.  I understand that your underground wire is intended to carry RF signals.  I think the aluminum wire I have around the property (about 18 acres) might carry the same signal.  What would transpire were I to connect the pet deterrent signal generator to the fence wire (the regular fence charger would not be used).  Also, I note that your wire appears to be insulated.  Were the insulation to break could the signal be shorted to ground (I doubt it but needed to ask.)  Thanks,  GV</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Jery,</p>
<p>The system doesn&#8217;t work well on a bare wire.  When the wire is uninsulated, anything touching the wire becomes part of the transmission loop and distorts the signal.  (Much in the same way that the new iPhone aerial is sensitive to being touched)  For this reason, if the insulation gets stripped, you often get a drop off in performance as the current shorts to ground.</p>
<p>That said, if you already have the wire set up around your home &#8211; you can always give it a shot.  Let us know how it works.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Janna Redington</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-2171</link>
		<dc:creator>Janna Redington</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Jul 2010 01:38:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-2171</guid>
		<description>We have a great Pyrenees and we live on a busy highway. I can see how it should be laid around the front and coming down one side next to neighbors house but at the back we have a creek and it comes around to form our pond. Then we have a small dam which has a dry bed creek that borders the other side of our property. We have an acre and a half.  To form the loop will I need to bury twisted wire around the pond and creek? Or since Pyrenees are said to run-through should I loop back and bring it around the concrete pathway that leads to the dam. That way if he breaks through the first one I will have another backup to keep him from the highway? I don&#039;t particularly want him in front yard anyway. But if I have to lay twisted all the way around the pond and creek will I need twice as much? Sorry, Just don&#039;t want to see this dog killed on the highway.

ADMIN - Hi Janna,

I&#039;m not sure if I completely understand your property, but I&#039;ve drawn a layout option based on what I could formulate from your description.

The way you describe using the twisted wire, however, cannot work.  The fence must be in a continuous loop, meaning that the wire must go out and return to the wall transmitter.  Twisted wire is two separate wires twisted together which means it will have two wires on each end that will need to be spliced to their own wire.  Our twisted wire page will help: http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/twisted-wire/.  Twisted wire can only be used to connect the wall transmitter to a boundary loop or the boundary loop to a secondary loop.  So, you cannot run the boundary wire, splice in twisted wire, then go back to the boundary wire to create a &quot;dead&quot; area for the dogs to pass through.

So, that&#039;s why I&#039;ve drawn up the double back method for you install.  If you have any questions about the sketch, please let me know.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We have a great Pyrenees and we live on a busy highway. I can see how it should be laid around the front and coming down one side next to neighbors house but at the back we have a creek and it comes around to form our pond. Then we have a small dam which has a dry bed creek that borders the other side of our property. We have an acre and a half.  To form the loop will I need to bury twisted wire around the pond and creek? Or since Pyrenees are said to run-through should I loop back and bring it around the concrete pathway that leads to the dam. That way if he breaks through the first one I will have another backup to keep him from the highway? I don&#8217;t particularly want him in front yard anyway. But if I have to lay twisted all the way around the pond and creek will I need twice as much? Sorry, Just don&#8217;t want to see this dog killed on the highway.</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Janna,</p>
<p>I&#8217;m not sure if I completely understand your property, but I&#8217;ve drawn a layout option based on what I could formulate from your description.</p>
<p>The way you describe using the twisted wire, however, cannot work.  The fence must be in a continuous loop, meaning that the wire must go out and return to the wall transmitter.  Twisted wire is two separate wires twisted together which means it will have two wires on each end that will need to be spliced to their own wire.  Our twisted wire page will help: <a href="http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/twisted-wire/" rel="nofollow">http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/twisted-wire/</a>.  Twisted wire can only be used to connect the wall transmitter to a boundary loop or the boundary loop to a secondary loop.  So, you cannot run the boundary wire, splice in twisted wire, then go back to the boundary wire to create a &#8220;dead&#8221; area for the dogs to pass through.</p>
<p>So, that&#8217;s why I&#8217;ve drawn up the double back method for you install.  If you have any questions about the sketch, please let me know.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Tracy</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-2121</link>
		<dc:creator>Tracy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 27 Jun 2010 23:50:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-2121</guid>
		<description>Hi there we have a vacation home on a lake. We want to be able to let the dog go to the lake. It is not practical to do a double loop back like the directions. I also tried to go down the beach, then back and then back to the other end and then twist the three wires together and it does not cancel out. Can I run the wire through &quot;metal&quot; conduit am
Nd then bury deep into the sand. Will this cancel the signal ?  I saw on another website that you could drive copper grounding rods at each corner of the beach and then attach the end of each loop to a post and that would complete the circuit?  That does not make sense to me however.

ADMIN - Hi Tracy,

There is unfortunately no getting around having a complete loop of wire.  Doing a triple twisted wire does not work.  One thing you can do is either make the wire high enough above the dogs or deep enough below the dogs that they don&#039;t get the correction.  So either string the wire high above the lake side of your property (perhaps in some trees) or run the wire out into the lake and sinking it to the bottom.  If you sink the wire deep enough, the dogs will effectively be able to swim over the wire without getting any correction.  The only other option is to do the double U-shaped loop.

The grounding rod trick is really inconsistent in our experience.  The idea is that you complete the circuit by having a copper grounding rod on either side and the signal goes through the soil.  When we experimented with this method it worked very inconsistently and seemed very sensitive to the soil moisture and the type of soil.  So sometimes it would work fine, and then other times it would stop working when it got a bit dry.  Also you often had to turn up the signal strength really high to get it working which leads to having very wide boundaries.  You can experiment with the copper rods, but I would not rely on it working.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi there we have a vacation home on a lake. We want to be able to let the dog go to the lake. It is not practical to do a double loop back like the directions. I also tried to go down the beach, then back and then back to the other end and then twist the three wires together and it does not cancel out. Can I run the wire through &#8220;metal&#8221; conduit am<br />
Nd then bury deep into the sand. Will this cancel the signal ?  I saw on another website that you could drive copper grounding rods at each corner of the beach and then attach the end of each loop to a post and that would complete the circuit?  That does not make sense to me however.</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Tracy,</p>
<p>There is unfortunately no getting around having a complete loop of wire.  Doing a triple twisted wire does not work.  One thing you can do is either make the wire high enough above the dogs or deep enough below the dogs that they don&#8217;t get the correction.  So either string the wire high above the lake side of your property (perhaps in some trees) or run the wire out into the lake and sinking it to the bottom.  If you sink the wire deep enough, the dogs will effectively be able to swim over the wire without getting any correction.  The only other option is to do the double U-shaped loop.</p>
<p>The grounding rod trick is really inconsistent in our experience.  The idea is that you complete the circuit by having a copper grounding rod on either side and the signal goes through the soil.  When we experimented with this method it worked very inconsistently and seemed very sensitive to the soil moisture and the type of soil.  So sometimes it would work fine, and then other times it would stop working when it got a bit dry.  Also you often had to turn up the signal strength really high to get it working which leads to having very wide boundaries.  You can experiment with the copper rods, but I would not rely on it working.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kim</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-2054</link>
		<dc:creator>Kim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Jun 2010 03:39:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-2054</guid>
		<description>I have a pug that has a little head and fat neck and body. I am worried that a collar won&#039;t fit her correctly. What should I do or am I worrying about nothing?
Thanks

ADMIN - Hi Kim,

It does sound nutty, but sometimes dogs with a fat neck and small head are a problem because the collar will not stay on and just slips off the dog&#039;s head.  Generally, if a regular collar stays on you will be fine.  But, if you have trouble keeping a regular collar around the dog&#039;s neck then you will have the same problem with the correction collar and the system will be ineffective.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a pug that has a little head and fat neck and body. I am worried that a collar won&#8217;t fit her correctly. What should I do or am I worrying about nothing?<br />
Thanks</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Kim,</p>
<p>It does sound nutty, but sometimes dogs with a fat neck and small head are a problem because the collar will not stay on and just slips off the dog&#8217;s head.  Generally, if a regular collar stays on you will be fine.  But, if you have trouble keeping a regular collar around the dog&#8217;s neck then you will have the same problem with the correction collar and the system will be ineffective.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Dan</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-1962</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 May 2010 03:15:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-1962</guid>
		<description>After the utilities were marked, I found out my phone line runs parallel on one side of my planned perimeter (front and back yard loop) for roughly 100 feet. How close can I bury my wire to this line without any interference? The system (IUC-4100) instructions state &#039;not within 10 feet&#039;, but this would then place the wire too close to the house. Thanks

ADMIN - Hi Dan,

10 feet is a good recommendation but I think if you stay a minimum of 6 feet away when running parallel to any kind of utility lines.  If you need to cross a utility line, make sure to cross over it at perpendicular angle.

Make sure to run the wire and test it before making the install permanent.  That way you can easily adjust it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After the utilities were marked, I found out my phone line runs parallel on one side of my planned perimeter (front and back yard loop) for roughly 100 feet. How close can I bury my wire to this line without any interference? The system (IUC-4100) instructions state &#8216;not within 10 feet&#8217;, but this would then place the wire too close to the house. Thanks</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Dan,</p>
<p>10 feet is a good recommendation but I think if you stay a minimum of 6 feet away when running parallel to any kind of utility lines.  If you need to cross a utility line, make sure to cross over it at perpendicular angle.</p>
<p>Make sure to run the wire and test it before making the install permanent.  That way you can easily adjust it.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jen</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-1849</link>
		<dc:creator>Jen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 May 2010 17:22:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-1849</guid>
		<description>We have a large yard and ordered extra wire in order to have enough to cover the entire perimeter.  How do we connect two segments of wire together?  Do we have to get extra &quot;splices&quot; or is there another way to connect the two??  Thank you!

ADMIN - Hi Jen,

The boundary kits each come with an additional two splices to help you connect the two segments of wire.  You strip a half-inch of insulation from the end of each wire.  You twiste the exposed wires together in the supplied wire nuts, then place the wire in the waterproof gel capsule to seal it off.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We have a large yard and ordered extra wire in order to have enough to cover the entire perimeter.  How do we connect two segments of wire together?  Do we have to get extra &#8220;splices&#8221; or is there another way to connect the two??  Thank you!</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Jen,</p>
<p>The boundary kits each come with an additional two splices to help you connect the two segments of wire.  You strip a half-inch of insulation from the end of each wire.  You twiste the exposed wires together in the supplied wire nuts, then place the wire in the waterproof gel capsule to seal it off.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Eric Hardcorn</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-1835</link>
		<dc:creator>Eric Hardcorn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 09 May 2010 12:09:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-1835</guid>
		<description>Hi, Ok I was wondering if it is possible to run two separate containment system loops from one transmitter via the origin of the loops both be twisted pairs landing on the same terminals on a single transmitter?? Example:  A twisted pair on the transmitter running to a loop in the back yard, and another twisted pair coming off the same transmitter in the house, heading the opposite direction, to the front of the house, to a loop there? Take in point I have no desire for the dogs to have access to the sides of the house. Thanks

ADMIN - Hi Eric,

You can run as many loops as you want from a single transmitter, provided that the total length of wire does not exceed the system capacity (rarely an issue on any lot less than 5 acres).  But, instead of running both loops to control box (in parallel), you want to have one loop hang off the other loop (in series).  This pretty easy, just splice some twisted wire into the primary loop at any point, run the twisted wire to the secondary loop, and splice the twisted wire into the secondary loop.

The reason that it is better to run them in series than in parallel is two-fold.  First, in series you will be alerted of any break - in parallel if one of the two loops get a break you will not get any notification from the system.  Second, if you run it in parallel the two loops can have very different boundary widths - if you run them in series the boundary widths will be the consistent.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, Ok I was wondering if it is possible to run two separate containment system loops from one transmitter via the origin of the loops both be twisted pairs landing on the same terminals on a single transmitter?? Example:  A twisted pair on the transmitter running to a loop in the back yard, and another twisted pair coming off the same transmitter in the house, heading the opposite direction, to the front of the house, to a loop there? Take in point I have no desire for the dogs to have access to the sides of the house. Thanks</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Eric,</p>
<p>You can run as many loops as you want from a single transmitter, provided that the total length of wire does not exceed the system capacity (rarely an issue on any lot less than 5 acres).  But, instead of running both loops to control box (in parallel), you want to have one loop hang off the other loop (in series).  This pretty easy, just splice some twisted wire into the primary loop at any point, run the twisted wire to the secondary loop, and splice the twisted wire into the secondary loop.</p>
<p>The reason that it is better to run them in series than in parallel is two-fold.  First, in series you will be alerted of any break &#8211; in parallel if one of the two loops get a break you will not get any notification from the system.  Second, if you run it in parallel the two loops can have very different boundary widths &#8211; if you run them in series the boundary widths will be the consistent.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-1776</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 May 2010 16:17:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-1776</guid>
		<description>Would there be an issue running the wire along steel (metal) landscape edging?

ADMIN - Hi Jeff,

Landscaping edging is so small, it would be very unlikely to cause a problem.  One thing to watch out for is to make sure you don&#039;t put it on the side of the edging that is actually edged with an electric/gas edger or with a weed whacker.  They are notorious for tearing up dog fence wire, so where possible we want to either avoid those locations or protect the wire in those locations by putting it in some stronger conduit.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Would there be an issue running the wire along steel (metal) landscape edging?</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Jeff,</p>
<p>Landscaping edging is so small, it would be very unlikely to cause a problem.  One thing to watch out for is to make sure you don&#8217;t put it on the side of the edging that is actually edged with an electric/gas edger or with a weed whacker.  They are notorious for tearing up dog fence wire, so where possible we want to either avoid those locations or protect the wire in those locations by putting it in some stronger conduit.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jennifer</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/laying-wire/comment-page-1/#comment-1589</link>
		<dc:creator>Jennifer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Apr 2010 01:10:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=163#comment-1589</guid>
		<description>I am installing a fence this week, will there be a conflict if I burry the underground fence wire next to my electric horse fence?  Is there a certain distance they should be apart so they do not conflict with each other?  Thanks.

ADMIN - Hi Jennifer,

Sometimes you will get interference with an electric horse fence, it is really hit and miss.  The only way to know for sure is to test a small section.  You will be able to tell if there is interference if the collar does not start beeping in the test section where it is near the fence but works normally elsewhere.  You also want to check that the dog fence signal isn&#039;t getting into the electric fence and causing the collar to trigger wherever the horse fence runs even if the dog fence is not in that place.  Again, the best way to test is to take the collar and see if it beeps in any sections of horse wire where there is no dog fence wire.

If you do get interference, you want to move the dog fence six feet away from the horse or cattle electric fence.  As always, test to make sure the interference has stopped. </description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am installing a fence this week, will there be a conflict if I burry the underground fence wire next to my electric horse fence?  Is there a certain distance they should be apart so they do not conflict with each other?  Thanks.</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Jennifer,</p>
<p>Sometimes you will get interference with an electric horse fence, it is really hit and miss.  The only way to know for sure is to test a small section.  You will be able to tell if there is interference if the collar does not start beeping in the test section where it is near the fence but works normally elsewhere.  You also want to check that the dog fence signal isn&#8217;t getting into the electric fence and causing the collar to trigger wherever the horse fence runs even if the dog fence is not in that place.  Again, the best way to test is to take the collar and see if it beeps in any sections of horse wire where there is no dog fence wire.</p>
<p>If you do get interference, you want to move the dog fence six feet away from the horse or cattle electric fence.  As always, test to make sure the interference has stopped.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
