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	<title>Comments on: Driveways and Pathways</title>
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	<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com</link>
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	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 28 Jul 2010 03:36:12 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Frank Scholle</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-2080</link>
		<dc:creator>Frank Scholle</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Jun 2010 21:50:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-2080</guid>
		<description>Is there any way, other than twisting, to suppress the RF for a 25 foot portion of the run?  Have you ever tried a triple twist, that is like a flattened &quot;Z&quot; ?  Do you think that would be worth trying?  Thanks Frank S.

Hi Frank,

Unfortunately, there is not good way to suppress the signal for part of the loop.  A triple twist does not work, nor does shielding.

Usually, you will try and design around the problem.  Go high up above that section, go down underground below that section, or make a C-shaped loop doubling back on yourself.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Is there any way, other than twisting, to suppress the RF for a 25 foot portion of the run?  Have you ever tried a triple twist, that is like a flattened &#8220;Z&#8221; ?  Do you think that would be worth trying?  Thanks Frank S.</p>
<p>Hi Frank,</p>
<p>Unfortunately, there is not good way to suppress the signal for part of the loop.  A triple twist does not work, nor does shielding.</p>
<p>Usually, you will try and design around the problem.  Go high up above that section, go down underground below that section, or make a C-shaped loop doubling back on yourself.</p>
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		<title>By: Jim</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-2048</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Jun 2010 18:31:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-2048</guid>
		<description>I have an existing fence that has not worked for a couple of years.  The wire got so green and corroded over the years that it quit working.  I got tired of splicing in new areas of the wire.  My old dog got used to the boundary and did not need it.  We now have a new dog and I need to put in new wire.  I used the wire that came with the Pet Safe Kit originally.  Any suggestions for wire that will last longer?

ADMIN - Hi Jim,

You want to use a wire that is &quot;direct burial&quot; rated.  The insulation on this type of wire is reistance to soil acid and tends to last a lot longer than regular household wire.

Sometimes soil can be very corossive and nothing will hold up well.  I suspect this is the problem, since the wire in the current PetSafe kits is direct burial rated and should have held up around ten years.   This is rare, but if you think that is what is going on, then you can put the wire in irrigation tubing or an old hosepipe before burying it and that should fix the problem.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have an existing fence that has not worked for a couple of years.  The wire got so green and corroded over the years that it quit working.  I got tired of splicing in new areas of the wire.  My old dog got used to the boundary and did not need it.  We now have a new dog and I need to put in new wire.  I used the wire that came with the Pet Safe Kit originally.  Any suggestions for wire that will last longer?</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Jim,</p>
<p>You want to use a wire that is &#8220;direct burial&#8221; rated.  The insulation on this type of wire is reistance to soil acid and tends to last a lot longer than regular household wire.</p>
<p>Sometimes soil can be very corossive and nothing will hold up well.  I suspect this is the problem, since the wire in the current PetSafe kits is direct burial rated and should have held up around ten years.   This is rare, but if you think that is what is going on, then you can put the wire in irrigation tubing or an old hosepipe before burying it and that should fix the problem.</p>
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		<title>By: Billy</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-1944</link>
		<dc:creator>Billy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 May 2010 16:53:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-1944</guid>
		<description>Is there anything wrong with triple twisting wire for areas I want my dog to be able to pass without correction?   I live in a split-level duplex and want to avoid running the wire on the unit.  I thought that if I came out of each side of the transmitter with one wire of a twisted wire and layed the twisted wire out where I want my dog to be able to cross without correction.  At the end of the twisted wire run, splice the twisted wire together.  Then come back to the transmitter where the other wire of each side is located and splice a single wire to this end and twist that wire to the already twisted wire and run this single wire (which will ultimately become the boundry wire) around the boundry.  Once the single wire is run beyond the now triple twisted wire, will that work as the boundry wire?

ADMIN - Hi Billy,

I&#039;m not sure I&#039;m following your description.  However, I may still be able to answer your question.  In order for the system to work, the boundary wire must go out from the transmitter, make the boundary and come back to the transmitter and plug into the second terminal.  Twisted wire cannot be used in any part of this loop.  Twisted wire is used to only connect the transmitter to the main boundary loop or to connect one main loop to a secondary loop.

Here&#039;s an illustration that helps explain twisted wire:

http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/twisted-wire/

Here are some other installation methods you can also consider when designing your layout:

http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/

I hope this answers your question.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Is there anything wrong with triple twisting wire for areas I want my dog to be able to pass without correction?   I live in a split-level duplex and want to avoid running the wire on the unit.  I thought that if I came out of each side of the transmitter with one wire of a twisted wire and layed the twisted wire out where I want my dog to be able to cross without correction.  At the end of the twisted wire run, splice the twisted wire together.  Then come back to the transmitter where the other wire of each side is located and splice a single wire to this end and twist that wire to the already twisted wire and run this single wire (which will ultimately become the boundry wire) around the boundry.  Once the single wire is run beyond the now triple twisted wire, will that work as the boundry wire?</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Billy,</p>
<p>I&#8217;m not sure I&#8217;m following your description.  However, I may still be able to answer your question.  In order for the system to work, the boundary wire must go out from the transmitter, make the boundary and come back to the transmitter and plug into the second terminal.  Twisted wire cannot be used in any part of this loop.  Twisted wire is used to only connect the transmitter to the main boundary loop or to connect one main loop to a secondary loop.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s an illustration that helps explain twisted wire:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/twisted-wire/" rel="nofollow">http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/twisted-wire/</a></p>
<p>Here are some other installation methods you can also consider when designing your layout:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/" rel="nofollow">http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/</a></p>
<p>I hope this answers your question.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Page</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-1929</link>
		<dc:creator>Page</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 24 May 2010 01:29:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-1929</guid>
		<description>We ran the wire right up along side the driveway on one side.  Obviously I can&#039;t put flags into the driveway to train her where the boundary is and where she will start hearing the warning beep.  I was thinking of drawing a chalk line to mark the boundary line along the driveway.  Do you think the dog can be trained to the chalk line just like the flags?

ADMIN - Hi Page,

Any visual marker will aid in training your dog.  We usually just drop the flags on the driveway, and the dogs usually figure out that it means the same as a flag that is stuck in the ground.  </description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We ran the wire right up along side the driveway on one side.  Obviously I can&#8217;t put flags into the driveway to train her where the boundary is and where she will start hearing the warning beep.  I was thinking of drawing a chalk line to mark the boundary line along the driveway.  Do you think the dog can be trained to the chalk line just like the flags?</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Page,</p>
<p>Any visual marker will aid in training your dog.  We usually just drop the flags on the driveway, and the dogs usually figure out that it means the same as a flag that is stuck in the ground.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Dan Kocso</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-1896</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan Kocso</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 May 2010 13:51:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-1896</guid>
		<description>What about running the wire on top of the driveway then putting a little sealer/tar/caulk over that so its not completely open but i dont have to cut. - thoughts?
thanks, Dan

ADMIN - Hi Dan,

That works, you really just want to stop the wire moving around and creating a tripping hazard for your guests.  If possible find an expansion joint but if not, your coudl do it as you suggest - the wire is suprisingly resilient to being run over.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What about running the wire on top of the driveway then putting a little sealer/tar/caulk over that so its not completely open but i dont have to cut. &#8211; thoughts?<br />
thanks, Dan</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Dan,</p>
<p>That works, you really just want to stop the wire moving around and creating a tripping hazard for your guests.  If possible find an expansion joint but if not, your coudl do it as you suggest &#8211; the wire is suprisingly resilient to being run over.</p>
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		<title>By: Clint</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-1846</link>
		<dc:creator>Clint</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 May 2010 01:23:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-1846</guid>
		<description>We are in the procees of  laying out the wire.  There is an area in our yard that the wire will run thru that we cross with our tractor regularly, also our driveway is a hard pack gravel driveway which could have heavy traffic.  These two areas I am planning on using either electrical plastic conduit or small diameter pvc pipe.  Is this ok, will the plastic pipe degrade the signal from the wire ?  How deep should the wire/pvc pipe be buried in these areas ?
Thanks, Clint

ADMIN - Hi Clint,

Conduit is a really good idea with a gravel driveway - otherwise the sharp edges of the gravel can be very abrasive. We usually use flexible irrigation piping or hose pipe, but PVC conduit works fine too.  The signal goes through the PVC or plastic just fine.  We usually bury it just below the surface (about 3 inches), but you can go up to about a foot down if you wish.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We are in the procees of  laying out the wire.  There is an area in our yard that the wire will run thru that we cross with our tractor regularly, also our driveway is a hard pack gravel driveway which could have heavy traffic.  These two areas I am planning on using either electrical plastic conduit or small diameter pvc pipe.  Is this ok, will the plastic pipe degrade the signal from the wire ?  How deep should the wire/pvc pipe be buried in these areas ?<br />
Thanks, Clint</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Clint,</p>
<p>Conduit is a really good idea with a gravel driveway &#8211; otherwise the sharp edges of the gravel can be very abrasive. We usually use flexible irrigation piping or hose pipe, but PVC conduit works fine too.  The signal goes through the PVC or plastic just fine.  We usually bury it just below the surface (about 3 inches), but you can go up to about a foot down if you wish.</p>
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		<title>By: Jen</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-1673</link>
		<dc:creator>Jen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Apr 2010 23:36:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-1673</guid>
		<description>I am making an assumption here but....I already have an existing fence that my dogs dig under, it is a chain link fence....can I just run the wire through the bottom of the fence instead of burying it since that is the boundary that I want my dogs to have? Will my dogs be able to go right up to the fence then? Also, will that electrify the fence in any way? I do not want to hurt any wildlife of it happens to shock the dog when there is a bird or squirrel on the fence if they activate it.

ADMIN - Hi Jen,

You can run the wire along the fence instead of burying it.  You can run it along the bottom of the fence, but I prefer to run it a little higher to keep it away from any errant weed whacker! 

The boundary wire is completely safe, it will not electrify the fence, the boundary wire does not deliver any correction, that is done by the collar.  Similarly wildlife crossing the boundary will not activate the system, the system is only activated by the collar crossing the boundary.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am making an assumption here but&#8230;.I already have an existing fence that my dogs dig under, it is a chain link fence&#8230;.can I just run the wire through the bottom of the fence instead of burying it since that is the boundary that I want my dogs to have? Will my dogs be able to go right up to the fence then? Also, will that electrify the fence in any way? I do not want to hurt any wildlife of it happens to shock the dog when there is a bird or squirrel on the fence if they activate it.</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Jen,</p>
<p>You can run the wire along the fence instead of burying it.  You can run it along the bottom of the fence, but I prefer to run it a little higher to keep it away from any errant weed whacker! </p>
<p>The boundary wire is completely safe, it will not electrify the fence, the boundary wire does not deliver any correction, that is done by the collar.  Similarly wildlife crossing the boundary will not activate the system, the system is only activated by the collar crossing the boundary.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Maria</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-1659</link>
		<dc:creator>Maria</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:14:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-1659</guid>
		<description>I want to contain the backyard only and use the entire back of my house as a natural fence.  The dog will need to pass in and out of the sliding doors, how do I cancel the signal across the patio doors?

ADMIN - Hi Maria,
You cannot cancel the signal in part of the loop.  Instead run the wire up a downspout, and across the gutter over the sliding doors.  The vertical height over the doors should get you enough separation so the dog can go in and out through the doors.  Alternatively you can run the wire tight around the front of the house.  For a lot more layout information, check out the &quot;Installation --&gt; Planning&quot; section of the website.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I want to contain the backyard only and use the entire back of my house as a natural fence.  The dog will need to pass in and out of the sliding doors, how do I cancel the signal across the patio doors?</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Maria,<br />
You cannot cancel the signal in part of the loop.  Instead run the wire up a downspout, and across the gutter over the sliding doors.  The vertical height over the doors should get you enough separation so the dog can go in and out through the doors.  Alternatively you can run the wire tight around the front of the house.  For a lot more layout information, check out the &#8220;Installation &#8211;> Planning&#8221; section of the website.</p>
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		<title>By: Russ</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-1626</link>
		<dc:creator>Russ</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Apr 2010 22:27:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-1626</guid>
		<description>I have an opposite problem to most of the question here about burying the wire.  To create a loop, I have to run the wire under an areas where I WANT my dog to be able to pass WITHOUT getting a correction.  Is there any way to insulate it to keep the wire from tripping the dog&#039;s collar?  Perhaps I have to bury it so deep it won&#039;t reach the collar?  Any ideas here?

ADMIN - Hi Russ,

There is no good way to insulate the wire.  You can go deep down below the area.  The depth you need depends on how wide you have the boundary set up, but a word of warning you will usually need to go very deep (e.g. 3+ feet).  It is usually easier to change the layout.  We can usually achieve the same ends by playing with the layout.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have an opposite problem to most of the question here about burying the wire.  To create a loop, I have to run the wire under an areas where I WANT my dog to be able to pass WITHOUT getting a correction.  Is there any way to insulate it to keep the wire from tripping the dog&#8217;s collar?  Perhaps I have to bury it so deep it won&#8217;t reach the collar?  Any ideas here?</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Russ,</p>
<p>There is no good way to insulate the wire.  You can go deep down below the area.  The depth you need depends on how wide you have the boundary set up, but a word of warning you will usually need to go very deep (e.g. 3+ feet).  It is usually easier to change the layout.  We can usually achieve the same ends by playing with the layout.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Julie</title>
		<link>http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/cuts/comment-page-1/#comment-1528</link>
		<dc:creator>Julie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 28 Mar 2010 19:09:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogfencediy.com/?page_id=27#comment-1528</guid>
		<description>Hi, can I run the wire up to our garage doors then up and around the doors and back down. I know she my be able to get out of the garage if the doors are open do to the height of the doors.

ADMIN - Hi Julie,

Running the wire above the garage doors to get across the driveway works.  When you lay out the wire, just check that aren&#039;t getting any unwanted signals in the garage.  Sometimes metal garage doors will amplify the signal in that local area and create an unwanted signal near the entrance to the garage.  </description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, can I run the wire up to our garage doors then up and around the doors and back down. I know she my be able to get out of the garage if the doors are open do to the height of the doors.</p>
<p>ADMIN &#8211; Hi Julie,</p>
<p>Running the wire above the garage doors to get across the driveway works.  When you lay out the wire, just check that aren&#8217;t getting any unwanted signals in the garage.  Sometimes metal garage doors will amplify the signal in that local area and create an unwanted signal near the entrance to the garage.</p>
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