Connecting and Testing

Last step.  Connect the wires to the control box and power on the system.  Hopefully you will get a green light from the system telling you that everything is working.  Hoorah.  Do a quick celebration jig!  (We have done a whole heap of installations and seeing that green light is still a whole lot of fun)  Bask in the glow of your victory!!!

If you are getting a broken wire error from the control box, don’t fear.  Nine times out of ten the break is at one of the splices where you joined two pieces of wire.  Check all the joins.  If that didn’t fix it skip to the section on finding a break in the dog fence wire and hunt down that break.

Now the last part of the installation is setting up the boundary flags.  Adjust the boundary width on the control box so that the boundary reaches the desired width.  Make sure the boundary is at least three feet wide on either side of the wire, much narrower than that and it will be hard to train the dog.  It is easier to start wide, then narrow the width after the dog is trained to give the dog more space than to try and train them with a boundary that is too thin. 

To test the boundary width, take the collar (making sure you are not touching the probes), and hold it at approximately the height of the dog’s head and get closer to the boundary wire until you hear it beep or see the collar light flash.  Now using the collar as your guide set the boundary flags at the point where the collar begins to beep and/or flash.  Try to space the flags no more than two yards apart, preferably closer.

In places where you cannot plant the flags in the ground such as the driveway, lie the flags down on the ground.

Congratulations.  Take a breather.  Then when you are ready, lets get started on the most important part, training your dogs to use the system.

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{ 40 comments… read them below or add one }

David browning September 6, 2014 at 3:47 pm

Hooked fence up and the control box is flashing green is this normal?

ADMIN – Hi David, no it is not normal. Try to connect a 10 foot loop to the wall transmitter as a test. If the wall transmitter flashing light issue stops, then you have a open splice somewhere in the loop wire.

Lewis May 23, 2014 at 5:51 pm

Bought a used Petsafe wireless fence Pro TX-1 and was wandering about the power supply to the transmitter??? Thanks

ADMIN – Hi Lewis, you should be able to get a new power supply through PetSafe.

Stephanie May 19, 2013 at 7:50 am

I installed the Petsafe Ultra Smart (my family ordered for me after finding your site and review). We have a single loop layout and the transmitter is solid green. However, I’ve tried two of our collars to test the boundary and I don’t hear a beep (collars flashing green). Going to charge them again and see if that helps. After reading a bit I’m wondering if I messed up my splice? I have the two ends of the loop coming together and spliced to the twisted wire heading to the transmitter Does that make sense? Since the transmitter is green I’m hoping it’s right. Not sure how I could close the loop and still connect the twisted wire any other way. ? Am I missing something obvious?

UPDATE – I think I know now, but totally missed this before in the system instructions so it may be a nice addition here. I think I needed to connect one end of our loop to half of the twisted wire and the other end to the other half of the twisted wire giving me two spliced where the loop and twisted wire meet. I think that’s why the collars weren’t beeping- it’s all connected and giving me a green light but it reading it all as twisted wire, correct?

ADMIN – Hi Stephanie,

Yes, that is correct. All the splices should be one-to-one. There should never be a three-way splice. Where the twisted wire terminates, you will have separate two splices, each connecting one of the twisted wires to one of the perimeter wires.

Russ Van Sickle May 5, 2013 at 10:50 am

What is the best type of wire to use stranded or solid. Thanks Russ

ADMIN – Hi Russ,

Short answer, the difference is minor, get whichever one is more easily available.

Long answer, they both have pros and cons. Stranded tends to be easier to work with, particularly in the thicker gauges, more resiliant to bending, more prone to corrosion, and is slightly weaker. The solid wire is stiffer and harder to work with, is a little less resilient to repeated bending, less prone to corrosion, and is slightly stronger.

We usually use solid wire for 20/18 gauge, and for the thicker 16/14 gauge we use stranded wire. All that said, the difference between the two is very minor, and if one is easier to obtain than the other then we would let that guide your decision.

Chad April 17, 2013 at 4:56 pm

I have a Petsafe Pro TX-1 system. I am trying to find a schematic for it or a picture that shows my terminations and what each of the dipswitches and dials are for and what the settings should be. I have mounted the system and ran the wire. It have a 5 terminal block for 2 different loops. Any help would be great. Thank You

ADMIN – Hi Chad,

The PetSafe Pro was a professionally installed system (like Invisible Fence), that seems to have fallen from favor. Afraid we are not familiar with the system. But, the way to figure out how to make it work is to get a short length of wire and use it as a dummy loop to see which pairs of terminal blocks result in a working loop.

The 5th block is likely for an optional grounding rod (but we are far from certain about that).

German J Gutierrez January 26, 2013 at 9:41 pm

I installed the Innotek Ultra-Smart system about 2.5 yrs ago. It works extremely well and my West Highland Terrier has a total understanding of her boundary limits. No issues whatsoever.
We have just adopted a miniature Schnauzer and I have purchased a second collar for him. I have charged the collar overnight and walked out around the perimeter of the yard with no response whatsoever. Do I need to do anything to the board downstairs to add the second collar? Thanks in advance for your response. Best Regards,
German

ADMIN – Hi German, It should automatically. I recommend testing the original collar on the boundary. You may have a a problem with your fence. If it does not work, the next step is run a 15 foot test loop to test the wall unit and collars. Since you have purchased through Dog Fence DIY please call us at: 1-888-936-4349 for extensive troubleshooting support.

Troy June 18, 2012 at 5:47 pm

I installed roughly 500ft of boundary wire around the perimeter of my property and the PetSafe UltraSmart system worked well for 3 months. I now have a roughly 100ft section on one side of the house that does not work or that I cant get a signal. I later found out that I had a neighbor lay new sod and inadvertently cut the wire. I found the cut and repaired that section (plus several feet in that area) with waterproof wire nuts. I pulled all of the wire out of the ground on that side and still cannot get a signal to see if there was any other damage and could not find anything wrong. Any thoughts?

Admin- Hi Troy,
Typically if your transmitter is not issuing a break alarm and there is only one section that the collar does not operate; either the transmitter is going bad or your neighbor installed a dog fence system along side your system. The issues sounds like a neighboring dog fence is causing issues. The only fix if there is a neighboring system. Will be to move your boundary wire 10-20 feet away or change to a system like the Perimeter Technologies which allows you to change frequencies to off set any neighboring dog fence.

Pat April 29, 2012 at 6:01 pm

I have the ICT 700 and need to know how to adjust the coarse and fine adjustments do the numbers on the panel mean anything?

Admin- Hi Pat

Sorry we are not familiar with the setting on an Invisible fence brand transmitter; however, comparing you question to one of our systems. The numbers only mean you are increasing the strength of the signal as your number increases (i.e. 3-4). You best option will be to turn the level to a higher number than test the collar to verify the change.

Chuck April 5, 2012 at 10:01 am

Did the install, I used #12 gauge for the boundary, and #14 gauge for the twisted bridging section, system works great! Thanks for the info, very helpful!

Chuck April 3, 2012 at 3:16 pm

I’m about to install a Petsafe in-ground system. The system I purchased came with what I’m guessing is about #20 gauge boundary wire. Is there any problem with “beefing” up the gauge of wire to #14 or even #12. I’m hoping that would help to reduce chances of wire breakage. Also do you have any idea what the largest gauge wire that the control panel on a Petsafe PIG00-1361 will accommodate?

ADMIN – Hi Chuck,

You can always use thicker wire in any system. It is easier for systems to push the signal through thicker wire – the analogy is that it is like driving down a wider lane. The PetSafe systems will generally accommodate up to 14 gauge wire, if you go any thicker the wire won’t fit in the terminal, but this is easily fixed by using a small bridging section of thinner wire.

andrew March 27, 2012 at 8:36 pm

Hopefully a real easy and possibly dumb question – I have an invisible fence ict 700 with a break in the wire. I purchased an rf choke to help locate the problem but I am having difficulty disconnecting the wires from the transmitter itself. They are in a gray 2 holed connector unit on the electronic board. I cannot pry them open to release the wire. There are 2 opaque pegs coming from the connectors but I am unable to figure out how to open the connector. Thanks for any help

ADMIN – Hi Andrew,

With the invisible fence system, you usually have to undo a couple of screws to get the wire out.

Jessica Hernandez February 27, 2012 at 8:32 pm

I purchased the Petsafe Basic In-Ground Radio Fence. I have it all set up running though my fence. Both the power and loop light are on and we tested the collar and it seems to work all areas except for one section were my dog can freely walk around. My boyfriend put the collar in his hand and walked across the wires and nothing happened. No beeping or static correction, what have I done wrong? Please give me some ideas. There is a dog run that is on that side of the house and we started on one side of the fence and looped it around and then took the wires to the transmitter box. I have no clue what I have done wrong also, are the numbers on the dials in feet?? Thanks in advance! Jessica

ADMIN – Hi Jessica,

The numbers on the boundary width dial are not in feet, it is just an arbitrary scale. I presume you have the collar switched on.

To start diagnosing the problem, create a small dummy loop with some spare wire (at least 10 feet). Separate the opposite sides of the wire loop as much as possible and set the boundary width dial to about three (and the boundary size slider to the smallest setting). Then test with the collar and see if triggers. If this doesn’t work there is probably something wrong with the system. If it doesn’t work, there is something going on with either your layout or the settings.

Sarah January 10, 2012 at 4:39 pm

Hi – First, I have found your website to very helpful, but have a couple of site-specific questions.

First, my husband has heard that the “wired” systems tend to work very well until the wire gets cut, which requires time-consuming trouble-shooting or replacing the whole line. How common is this breakage? Is it worth the worry?

Second, I have been reading the reviews and comments about the wireless systems and they do not seem as consistent, but may be our best option (if my husband does not want the hassle of fixing broken wires). Are there any wireless systems with Waterproof collars? We have a pond behind our house that would be part of the radius that the dog would be allowed to roam.

Also about the wireless, we have a full walk-out basement behind our house with retaining walls (about 7 feet tall each) that extend to daylight. If we put the wireless unit high in the first floor (not basement) or somewhere in the second floor, should the wireless system work properly?

We only have two trees in our yard, and a gently rolling landscape, so I do not think the wireless will get interference from anything else.

ADMIN – Hi Sarah,

The wired fences are more time intensive to install and will require the occasional break repair, but are well worth the effort. The wired systems give you a much more reliable field which makes training easy – the temperamental nature of wireless makes them hard to train a dog with, even if they do work in you situation.

Wire breaks do happen, but if you are careful when you install the wire to protect the vulnerable parts (wherever the wire crosses a pathway or driveway and might be hit by an edger), then you can avoid the majority of breaks. How common are breaks? Hard to give a precise answer on that, if installed with an eye toward avoiding break I think the average owner gets a break every 2-3 years. Finding a break, with a break detector should take about an hour for an average 500 foot installation.

The Havahart Radial and Havahart Custom collars are waterproof and can handle swimming. Placing a radial wireless system transmitter on your first floor would be your best bet for getting a signal, but since the signals have a more difficult path to get outside. This reduces your chance of success with a wireless system.

Jeff December 13, 2011 at 7:23 pm

I have two dog collars and one gives the warning beeps but the other collar does not. Why would that be?

ADMIN – Hi Jeff,

Assuming both collar are the same type, and batteries are good, the collar that is not being triggered is defective.

Alan December 1, 2011 at 8:20 am

I have a long stretch of twisted wire and I am getting a tone with the collar over it. Do you connect both ends of the twisted wire to the boundary wire and the transmitter?

ADMIN – Hi Alan,

Each end of the twisted wire should have two loose ends. The two ends on one side will connect to the two terminals of the transmitter (one on each terminal). The two ends on the other side of the twisted wire should each connect to one of the sides of the boundary loop. If you are getting a tone, it is likely that the twisted wire is not correctly connected. For more details and some diagrams, check out the Installation –> Twisted Wire section of the website.

Michael November 27, 2011 at 7:41 pm

Hello my wife and I are looking to purchase a system, more than likely the Innotek 4100, and we were wondering about the connections of the boundary wire. I use crimp-able wire terminal inline splices at work and wondered if these would work to connect the boundary wire to the next 500 feet. they crimp like normal wire splices and also have heat shrinkable ends to seal the splice to eliminate any inclement weather getting into the connections. we have a 5 acre square property with a levee and several barns on the property.

ADMIN – Hi Michael,
Yes, those splices will work well and the waterproofing will be great.

Mark November 25, 2011 at 11:18 am

Hi, I have an ICT 725 and I am getting a blinking green light with a beep. I will disconnect the unit and after reconnecting it will take some time for the beep to start up and there is a minute or so between beeps. Do you know what this means?

ADMIN – Hi Mark,
Unfortunately, you’ll need to contact the local installer for the Invisible Fence. This is not a brand we sell or troubleshoot.

Jay November 15, 2011 at 7:19 pm

Hi, I bought a house that has an invisible fence system. How can I find the exact location of the burried wire so I can set my flags and start training?

ADMIN – Hi Jay,

When you plug in your fence, you’ll use the collar to locate the edge of the boundary to set up flags. This may take some trial and error, but you should be able to locate it as long as the wire is intact.

Chad braswell November 12, 2011 at 11:51 am

we have ict 725 and I lost the fuse. do you know the fuse size or replacement? thanks

ADMIN – Hi Chad,

Unfortunately, no. The best person to call would be your local Invisible Fence installer.

Steve November 6, 2011 at 11:28 am

Great site! Thanks for the information. I have a ICT 725 and am confused as to how the coarse and fine adjustments on the panel work. As I understand the manual, I’m suppose to set the coarse to get the width of the signal emitted from the buried wire. But what does the fine adjustment do? How do these two adjustments work together? Can you explain?

Regards,

Steve

ADMIN – Hi Steve,

Thanks for the feedback. You use the coarse adjustment to set the overall boundary width. The fine adjustment is used to tweak the boundary to your exact goal. So, with the coarse adjustment you get it close to what you need and use the fine adjustment to make it perfect.

Ken October 21, 2011 at 7:43 pm

Hello, I recently installed a 4100 system with 2000 feet of wire. I have one section that is about 250 feet long that I get no signal with either of the two collars. I have no neighbors and it is over a 100 feet from any other electrical lines and the house. The light on the control says everything is fine. I am stumped. Another problem I have is that one collar will signal at the edge of the boundary area and then you can walk away from that area and walk back through the exact same spot and cross the wire with no signal. I can not seem to get any consistency out of that collar. Thank you for your help and the great website.

ADMIN – Hi Ken,

It sounds like you may have a partial break; I would go check all the splices close to the area there the wire is dead. More times than not if you are having problems with the initial install, one of your splices is not making a great connection.

Scott October 18, 2011 at 9:42 pm

I installed the Cabela’s underground fence (made by Innotek) and it works fine except that the collar is triggering when the dog passes over the section of twisted wire. Any ideas on why this is happening?

ADMIN – Hi Scott,

You might have spliced the twisted wire into the boundary wire incorrectly. Make sure that all your splices are a 1-1 connection(one wire connection to another).

Jamie Grenier October 10, 2011 at 12:07 pm

I have a pet safe underground fence. I have had to run 1500 Feet of wire to get around the Acreage. Checked my splices and they are good. Is 1500 feet too far. I could run two loops if so ?

Admin – Hi Jamie,

You should be able to install 1500 feet of wire with no issues. Most PetSafe systems can contain anywhere from 10-25 acres. You can run a second loop from the boundary wire. You would simply splice into the outside boundary wire and run twisted wire to the new area you wish to enclose. Please view our install page for exclusion zone.

Exclusion zone: http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/#exclusion

Becky October 10, 2011 at 11:52 am

Hello,

I’m interested in installing an invisible fence for my dogs. I understand that if the wire runs parallel closer than 6 feet that it could cause a dead zone? What if there is already an invisible fence installed in our yard somewhere? I believe the previous owners (over 12 years ago) had a dog and had an invisible fence, but I don’t know where the wire is or if it still works. Would this interfere at all with a new invisible fence from this website?

Thanks, Becky

ADMIN – Hi Becky,

If the previous fence wire is not active, it will not create any interference.

Linda September 12, 2011 at 11:38 am

We installed the wire and hooked everything up. When we were setting the flags, I would find areas that we could not hear a beep in the warning area. Later on these dead areas, were working properly. We later tried the collars on the dogs, we found the same problem, some areas would not work for correction, then later these very same spots were working. We have areas that have many rocks, thus we ran the wire on the inside (yard area). What are some of the reasons that would cause intermittent dead zones?

ADMIN – Hi Linda,

The most common causes of dead zones are where there is interference with the signal coming from the wire. This is either from (1) a neighbor’s dog fence within 12 feet of yours, or (2) your own dog fence with sides too close together or the boundary width set up too wide so that different section of the fence are interfering with each other.

John September 8, 2011 at 9:12 pm

Hello, Just got the Invisible Fence ict 725 system up and running. I am having an issue, or at least I think I am. I took the collar and walked around my yard to find where the “fence” was located around my house (the wire was already underground from previous owners) and the good news is the collar gave off a tone when I approached the wire. But every time the collar beeped, I would get a zap at the same time. I thought the collar was suppose to beep as you got close to the “fence” and if you (the dog) continued then you would get a little zap. Is there perhaps an adjustment somewhere on the unit or is this how the unit works. Any help would be appreciated. John

ADMIN – Hi John,

The amount of warning time is adjustable on Invisible Fence collars. To adjust the warning time you need to get an Invisible Fence technician to do it for you (you need a special tool).

Cindy September 5, 2011 at 12:40 pm

I have an invisible fence. It started beeping so I figured there’s a break. Used the radio to walk around but it’s difficult to hear the difference in freq. to detect break. Now the beeping stopped, there’s a green light on but, now there’s a clicking sound from the transmitter (sounds like morse code). The collar is working but I’m not sure what’s going on and had a tech out just last month splicing breaks I couldn’t find. Any suggestions or just another tech call?

ADMIN – Hi Cindy,

Sounds like the Invisible Fence Transmitter is having a problem. If the problem recurs, test to see if the problem is indeed the transmitter or it is the wire. You can test this by seeing if the collar works (even though the transmitter say there is a wire break) .. it should not. And also by connecting a short test loop and seeing if the transmitter stops beeping … it should. If either of these tests fail, there is a problem with the transmitter and it needs repair.

If the problem is not the transmitter, then the problem is indeed that there is a break in the wire.

Jordan July 22, 2011 at 4:24 pm

I am integrating the invisible fence with an existing backyard fence. I have strung the wire at the top of the fence so my dog can go right up to the fence and have more space in the backyard. My question is whether I should put up flags in that area of the yard where the dog will not hear a beep or receive a correction. And are there any other considerations in the training when working in this area? Thanks

Admin- Hi Jordan,

You should place the flags in the area where the dog will not receive the warning or corrections. This will help your dog understand that he has a boundary in that location as well. However, I would not train in these areas. You will need to train your dog in the areas where the collar can receive the warnings and corrections.

Jill April 11, 2011 at 7:28 pm

We bought the Innotek 4100 and set up the fence and transmitter this past weekend. It was only then (being the not so bright one in the family) that I realized that we didn’t need just 6 feet between our neighbors wire and ours, but 15-20 feet (this basically takes up my entire backyard!!). My question is if I returned this system and got the system with multiple frequencies would this solve my problem or would I still have one side of the fence negated by the neighboring underground dog fence? It has been suggested that my best alternative is the wireless Petsafe product. I’d love to hear your thoughts. Thanks, Jill

ADMIN – Hi Jill,

Check what kind of system your neighbor had, it could be that: (1) you are already on separate frequencies (2), your neighbor has the ability to switch frequencies, or (3) even if you are on the same frequency, six feet of separation may be fine. If you do need a different system, getting one that lets you switch to a different frequency to your neighbor would solve the problem. The Perimeter Ultra is a good choice for a fence that allows frequency switching.
If you get a system with

Callie March 27, 2011 at 1:40 pm

I have livestock electric fence, and I would like to hang the dog fence off of that existing fence in a couple of places. I have read where you advised to set up a stretch of fence and check for interference before completing the installation. My question is- how do I recognize if I have an interference issue? What are the actual symptoms I am looking for? Thanks so much!

ADMIN -Hi Callie,

Where you get interference, the dog collar will not trigger properly. You can test this by approaching the fence, holding the collar by it’s band and checking to see if the collar starts beeping and lights up as it should when you get within the boundary zone. You want to check in a few different places to make sure there is no interference.

Dana Bailey November 15, 2010 at 11:38 pm

I have an ICT 725 previously installed by past owner. I have no idea how to set the power level. I have an instruction manual I downloaded but it covers very little. HELP!

ADMIN – Hi Dana,

The Invisible Fence ICT-725 correction level can only be set or changed with a tool that the dealer has. So, you will need to get your local Invisible Fence dealer out to help you adjust the power level on the collar.

Nancy October 25, 2010 at 3:59 pm

We have the Innotek 4100 and it works wonderfully for our Jack Russell dog. One problem I am having is the dog loves to play around the pool, especially if we are playing ball she will run back and forth on the deck trying to capture the ball. For some reason the collar is beeping while she is running near the pool? Will it actually zap her? The pool is no where near the boundary, we have buried 1400 feet of wire and the pool is near the center. Why is the collar beeping near the pool?

ADMIN – Hi Nancy,

That is mysterious, the collar is triggering near the pool which is not located near any boundary line, so it is unlikely that it is being triggered by a neighbour’s system. There must be some kind of stray source of signal near the pool. To hunt it down, I would start by seeing if you can reproduce the erroneous beep. Then start switching things off, one-by-one to see if you can pinpoint the source. I would start by switching off the dog fence itself, it is usually the culprit – the signal from the fence occasionally leaks into other wiring (or metal) causing the collar to trigger in odd places. (the way to stop this happening is to make sure that the dog fence wire does not run close-by and parallel to some other metal or other electrical wiring)

Jim Montague September 28, 2010 at 3:35 pm

I have installed a Innotek IUC-5100 system.
I have a green light on the transmitter, tested the system with a RF Choke.
I seem to have no breaks in the wire.
I made a test loop with about 10 feet of wire and the collar still does not pick up a signal with the test light provided in the kit.
With the hand held remote I can hear tone and stimulation levels will show a orange light on the test light.
The collar has a full charge.
Could it be the collar?

ADMIN – Hi Jim,

It sounds like the collar is the issue. I’d reach out to Innotek provide the same information you provided me. You’re collar is under warranty and if it’s defective, Innotek will ship you and new one. Innotek’s number is: 1-800-826-5527.

frank d September 9, 2010 at 7:11 pm

on the ict 725 collar. how do i make the change to match the freqency of the unit?
thanks, frank

ADMIN – Hi Frank,

The frequency on an Invisible Fence collar can’t be switched, you need a collar specifically matched to the frequency of the unit. (i.e. there are two different type of collar, one for each frequency)

Ann May 30, 2010 at 12:45 pm

I have a question about the warning tone the collar gives before the correction begins. How long (distance-wise) should it be? I have my field set fairy low at 3 feet and when the warning beep begins the correction happens one inch beyond that. I can easily see a dog hitting the correction by not getting enough notice with the warning tone. I’ve bought the PetSafe 4100.

ADMIN – Hi Ann,

The warning tone distance on the PetSafe IUC-4100 depends on how widely you have the boundary set up. The warning tone is the first 10-20% of the boundary distance. So if you set up a narrow boundary, the warning zone will be very small. If you follow our training protocol this should not be a big deal because the first week will have no correction and will be familiarizing them with the boundary. And, after the dog is trained they should stay clear of the boundary. If you do want the warning zone to be wider – you will have to increase the boundary width.

Anne April 21, 2010 at 9:52 am

I recently installed the IUC-4100 and purchased an additional collar for our second dog. The wire is currently laying on the ground and as I test (solid green light on transmitter) there is an area close to the house, approximately 40 feet long that the collars do not react to or are intermittent. Any suggestions? Thanks! Anne

ADMIN – Hi Anne,

The most likely culprit is a neighbouring system that is causing interference with your system. You can verify this is the problem by having your neighbour switch off their system and seeing if the problem stops. If that is not the problem, look for something else along that 40 foot stretch that could be causing the interference.

You have two options. One move that segment of wire until you no longer get interference. Two, use a Perimeter Ultra system that has multiple frequencies so you see if you can avoid the interference by changing frequencies.

Katherine April 4, 2010 at 3:20 pm

I’m so excited to see this site!! It’s been difficult getting information about the dog fence from our Invisible Fence installer, but we’ve already used some of your helpful hints and find them very useful.

I’ve used the information about finding a break in the fence and we’ve been unable to find them using a regular radio and the RadioShack device. Nor have we been able to find any using the device purchased from Amazon.

Our fence is beeping with green solid light at the transmitter. We have an Invisible Fence ICT 725 with a surge protector that plugs into an electrical outlet. As I mentioned we’ve checked the entire wire around the yard and can’t find anything. The signal field wire is plugged into the transmitter. There is no LP card, but everything is plugged into the surge protector. Is there something I should check for? Thanks, Katherine

ADMIN – Hi Katherine,

The first step I would take is to connect a short dummy loop of wire to the Invisible Fence system. The system should give you the all-clear. This will tell us if it is the system that is defective of there is actually a break in the wire.

Ray February 28, 2010 at 3:19 pm

Dumb question but how do you charge the collar on the innotek SD-2100 system?

ADMIN – Hi Ray,

The recharger for the Innotek SD-2100 is built into the base station. You take the collar from the SD-2100 and you place it on top of the base station in the correct orientation. You will know when you have it right because the indicator light on the base station will change to indicate that you are recharging the collar.

Andre November 5, 2009 at 12:32 pm

I’m researching products and have a question about installation. 1/4 of our yard has the neighbor’s fence – they also have a dog. I’m hoping that we could leave that side as a safe zone so our dog can go up to the fence and say hi to my neighbor’s dog. I fear that I will have to make a complete loop with the wire so it actually works as opposed to making more of a horseshoe shape. Please advise, thank you! – Andre

ADMIN – Hi Andre,

You are right, you will need to have a complete loop.

Some options to let him still play with the neighbor’s dog:

1. Put he wire up high. If the fence is high enough, put the wire high up on the neighbor’s fence so that the signal does not reach to the bottom so your dog can happily play without triggering the correction.
2. Do a double horseshoe. Do the three sides where you want the dog to be able to play and then double back on yourself, leaving 6 feet between the two wires. This does have the disadvantage of decreasing the size of the area the dog can play.

Tad Mayfield September 30, 2009 at 5:35 pm

Hi,
Your site indicates that the flags should be placed no more than two yards apart. I will be using about 470 feet of wire. Based on your recommendation I would need about 78 flags. I believe the kit comes with 50 flags. Is there a way to just obtain/order additional flags?

Admin – Hi Tad,

You are right that the packs don’t come with quite enough flags. But is pretty close and you can make do. 500 feet of wire, usually only gets you 400 feet of actual distance due to waste, and undulation in the wire. And you can cover 400 feet with 50 flags spaced at just over 2 yards.

You can get extra flags in the wire section of our online store. You can also get extra flags at any Home Depot or Loews, they have them in the plumbing section. They are used to mark water mains.

Hope that helps

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