The reader asked how do you go about containing dogs who suddenly begin disobeying the fence?

Hi I have a 2 year old st. bernard and pyranise mix she wieghs about 110 and we have the stubborn dog collar and fence and the correction level is all the way up. but the dog still runs through it, do you have any suggestions how to keep her in the yard?

Hi Cory,

There are several recommendations we have for containing dog’s who disregard their dog fence boundary.

1) Thin the fur on the dog’s neck with scissors or clippers to guarantee a good fitting collar.  If you’re not using long fur probes, we suggest changing to those.

2) Increase the boundary width if possible.  Widen the boundary as wide as your property can take that still gives your dogs plenty of space to play.  This will increase the area in which your dog will receive correction and make it more difficult to bolt through.

3) Most importantly, re-train your dogs.  The successful containment formula is training + correction.  Correction alone rarely contains any dog.  With your dogs boldly disobeying the rules, it’s time to go back to square one.  Treat this as if your dogs have never been on the fence and you need to train them for the first time.  So, set up your flags to establish the new, wider boundary and begin supervising your dogs play.  Until your dogs can prove they respect the boundary, keep training and do not let them in the yard unsupervised.  You don’t want to force your dogs to the boundary, but you want to be present give commands.  Try using a leash that has a long lead so that your dogs can play, but if they try to leave, you can reinforce the correct behavior.  Make sure to have a great, positive attitude about it as well.  Reward him with treats when he does the right thing.

Making your yard the fun, safe place to be is the biggest lesson your teaching your dogs.  And remember, patience and persistence with the above tips will go a long way in solving your dog containment issue.

Best Regards,

Wes Riojas
General Manager
Dog Fence DIY .com
1-888-936-4349

A reader asks how to protect the boundary wire where it goes across a driveway on the edge of the driveway where you would usually run a power edger. That is the most vulnerable spot for the boundary wire. It is not a big deal if you do your own lawn care – but if you use a lawn service it will inevitably get cut if not somehow protected.

How do I prevent my lawn service from cutting the line where it crossed the driveway and sidewalk at an expansion joint? I suspect a metal edger blade would easily cut the line.

-Bob

Hi Bob,

The edger cutting the wire on the side of the driveway or sidewalk is probably the most common cause of a wire break. It is also a really awkward place to have to repair a break, because you usually need to pull up part of the wire that you have buried across the driveway to get enough slack that you can re-splice the wire. So it is really important to protect the wire in this spot. We have two methods to deal with the issue.

(1) In that spot where you cross from the driveway into the soil – enclose the wire in a metal or pvc pipe.

(2) Bury the wire really deep in that location. So when you are cutting the driveway at the very edge of the driveway – we will set the depth on the circular saw to maximum – that way we get the wire buried too deep to be cut by the edger. I find this is the preferable method.

We have learned over the years that the one method that does not work at all is to tell the lawn care folks not to edge in that spot! They have too many lawns to do and even if they remember, inevitably your usual guy takes a week off and the new guy does know not to cut there.

Wes Riojas
General Manager
Dog Fence DIY .com
1-888-9-DOG-DIY

A reader had an unfortunate experience where a power failure lead to her dog getting a correction from a wireless system. The answer really gets to the root of why wired systems are so much better than wireless.

We have the petsafe wireless unit and have been pleased with it until this shocking due to power outages. We recently picked up another base unit and want to make sure that it’s okay to put together two base units rather than a transmitter to extend the range. Maybe they are the same, but I’m not sure.

Last night, my terrier was laying on my lap while my husband and I were watching TV. The power goes off and the terrier’s collar started beeping and shocked him before I got it off. Thank goodness we were home, but now I wonder how many times this may have happened. He’s outside most of the day, but we bring him in every evening. We looked at the literature and it’s not supposed to do this. Is it time for repair? I am assuming that the problem is the base unit.

Sheila

ADMIN – Hi Shelia,

You can use base units and extenders interchangeably – they are the same unit.

You are correct, when the transmitter has a power failure and stops working it should not trigger the collar. We find these units generally unreliable. You should definitely get it checked – but it is also a problem inherent to wireless units.

The wireless systems basically all work by transmitting a signal that is detected by the collar. They have what we call a negative trigger. When the dog gets too far from the transmitter the signals get weaker and the correction starts. The problem they have is that lots of things make the signal weaker – such as the dog going behind a tree. In your case it seems like what happened is that there was a power failure and so the signal stopped going out which the collar thought meant the dog was escaping.

By contrast, wired systems work the opposite way. They have a positive trigger. The collar is used to getting no signal. Only when the dog gets too close to the dog fence, does it pick up the signal from the wire and trigger the correction. Because the only thing that can trigger the collar is actually getting close to the boundary wire – wired systems are much more reliable.

You may be able to sidestep the problem by putting the batteries in the back of the unit, so when there is a power failure it switches to battery backup.

Although many dog owners are well aware of wire and plastic dog crates, most have not heard of the more elegant wooden dog crates. But there are alternatives. Dog crate furniture is a great option for dog owners that want the functionality of a dog crate but hate the thought of having an unsightly wire or plastic crate around the house. Dog crate furniture is often referred to as wood or wooden dog crates and dog crate end tables. These dog crates typically serve as an end table and come in different designs and finishes. The most common finishes include cherry, mahogany, and black.


By utilizing a dog crate end table, owners can ensure their dog’s den is part of the family room. As dog’s are pack animals, this is very important for the quality of life for the dog. Dog crate furniture is quite useful when your dog needs to be contained indoors. This is often then case when owners have visitors over or if they just need to run out for a dinner. Of course, regardless of the type of crate you purchase, crate training is very important. Properly crate training your dog will ensure the dog is comfortable in the crate and relaxed when left inside. Wooden dog crates are suggested for dogs that have been properly trained and will not chew or claw the inside of the crate.


Wooden dog crates are more expensive than the common wire or plastic crates, but we believe the benefit outweighs the cost. Depending on the specific crate, a quality wooden dog crate costs $300 – $500. Most crates also come in multiple sizes to accommodate smaller or larger dogs. One drawback to wood dog crates is that they are not as portable as the lighter wire and plastic crates. Most dog crate end tables weigh 50 lbs or more.


Designer dog crates provide additional options. Some designer dog crates are made of stainless steel or even polished fiberglass to give a modern look. It is important to know the design and look of your home when considering designer dog crates as the modern look may not always coordinate with your décor.


In addition to dog crates, wooden dog gates can be a nice addition to any home with a pet. These gates stand alone and do not require hardware or mounting and therefore can be put in place or removed very quickly. Wooden dog gates are a great way to close in a space to contain your pet while coordinating with the look of your décor. Often, dog owners use these gates to section off a laundry room or bathroom when needed to contain their pet. If you have a large entry space, many gates can span more than 70 inches to create a barrier. In addition, some of the wider dog gates come with a swing door built-in. The doors is quite convenient as the owner is not required to step over the gate or move the gate each time they enter the area.

Bob asks how you can have a system that allows the dogs to freely access a neighbor’s property but can be switched to allow the dog to be restricted to one area when someone moves.

What a wonderful web site! Very informative. I have a question of a different nature. Both my neighbor and I would like to install an in ground fence system. The issue is that our dogs like to play together and we would like to allow them to play but at the same time conatin the dogs to our respective yards when they are not playing. I am assuming we should both purchase the same system so that the collars work in both yards. Is there any way we can lay out the fence that would allow us to turn off the boundry between our yard or is there a way to create a passage way between our yards? We have discussed possibly purchasing one system for both yards but the issue is what if one of us moves in the future or for some reason one of us decides not to allow the other’s dog on our property.

Bob

Hi Bob,

Having the same system as your neighbour has some advantages and disadvantages. The big benefit is that the same collar will work for both systems. The big drawback is that along the common boundary, where you will both have parallel lengths of wire you will have signal cancellation so you would typically need to keep those wires 12 feet apart. This severely reduces your yard size if you live in a typical sized suburban lot.

You guys have a slightly different situation where you do not want that division in the middle between the two yards. You have a couple of options.

(1) Share One system – you could share one system and make a big loop around both properties. Of course if one of you moved and the new neighbor was less cool, you would need to change the boundary layout and add wire along that common boundary. You would also potentially need to relocate the control box depending on who moved. (You could alternatively make a lifelong pact to be neighbors and never move!)

(2) Two Systems – you could get two systems and each have an independent loop. Along the common boundary you would both twist your wires together. This would cancel the signal along that common boundary. If one of you left, they would just switch off their system and take it with them. This would reactivate the common boundary. (You would also want to temporarily put up some flags on the common boundary and do a couple of training session so the dog learns the boundary has changed.)

There is unfortunately no simple way to make that common boundary signal switchable – so that it can go on and off as needed along the common boundary. I imagine it would also be hard to train a dog on such a switchable system.

Best Regards,

Wes Riojas
General Manager
Dog Fence DIY .com
1-888-9-DOG-DIY

Amanda asks how a dog fence can help her pups running off to join a Biker Gang.

Ok, so I have been living on my 40 ac farm now for 6 years and never had an issue with the dogs running UNTIL the neighboring farm got a dog. That dog is always running and now my dogs run with her. Last night the dogs took off after a biker. This is not acceptable. At the same time, I want to be able to let my dogs run in the immediate 8 acres with the kids. I already have a 40×60 dog kennel to keep the dogs in while I am gone but now they are digging to get out of there. I have a German Shepherd Dog and a Collie/Lab. Both are similar sized/weight. I have been looking at these systems for hours trying to decide what to do/buy. I’m not planning on doing to whole 40 ac, so the 25 ac system would be fine. My questions: 1) Bolting – when the neighboring dog comes over she bolts across the street and my dogs chase after her. I know this system is supposed to work against that, but how does it really work? If the dogs just bolt and know that the zap will only last a few seconds, whats to stop them? 2) The collar – I have been reading so many reviews on other sites that complain about the newer light weight collar – it falls off easy, breaks within 8-10 months, flimsy, etc. I see your site touches on it a little but I cannot (and sorry will not!) buy 200 bucks of new collars every 10 months or so. Also if the dogs are bolting across or even in the back of the 8 ac, and lose the collar, that would be another 100 bucks. 3) is there something in the pipeline for this system for collars for different sized dogs? I would love to have a Chinese Crested and a Burmese Mountain Dog someday….Um, they are slightly different in sizes! For this reason I am actually looking at the Dogtra system. 4) on average how long do these systems work? Would I be replacing parts in 5yrs? 10? 50? I know it’s to be expected. The reason I ask is because if I have to replace in 5-10 years, then the different dog sizes would not be an issue right now. 5) I’m really thinking about the Dogtra system because of the Innotek collar issue that I have been reading about and the possible different dog sizes in the future. 6) On average, how much will an electricity bill go up with the use of these systems? We have a co-op and already have a high bill. Dogtra says their system is energy efficient. Thank for your honest answers, as with all the comments, this site has been the best that I have found! Thanks again!

Hi Amanda,

I generally try and get a system that is rated to do well above the area I am trying to enclose. If you use a system that is too close to the manufacturer’s maximum, (for example using an IUC-4100 to contain 25 acres, it’s maximum capacity) then the boundary width even when set to maximum tends to be unnecessarily thin. When you have a nice big area like you do, you want to set that boundary width as wide as possible – because it will make it much easier to train the dogs and much harder for your dogs to break through the boundary. So if you are going to do 25 acres, I would use the Dogtra (it is rated to 40 acres), or another one I really like is the SportDog (rated to 100 acres). Alternatively you can use a thicker gauge of wire than the standard 20 gauge which will also help you get a nice wide boundary using the Innotek.

(1) If you train the dogs on the system, they will not bolt. A trained dog will usually not even realize that running through the wire is a possibility and will assume that the correction extends out infinitely. The last step of the training is to use your dogs particular temptations to test them. So if you are concerned about the neighbor’s dog – we can borrow the neighbors dog and use him to test your dog’s compliance and to train them that they cannot cross the fence under any circumstances.

(2) Not sure what you are reading about a new light weight collar. Which system? We rarely hear about losing a collar because it slipped off a dog (the usual story is that someone takes it off the dog and forgets where they put it down!), the few times it has been a dog with a really fat neck. If the dog’s regular collar stays on, then expect the correction collar to stay on. We have a few customers that are concerned about losing the correction collar and zip-tie the correction collar to the regular collar so that if it falls off it stays attached to the dog. We find this overkill.

(3) The Dogtra collar is a bit heavy for a small dog like a Chinese crested, I would not use it on a dog under 20 lbs. But, the SportDog system is compatible with the PetSafe inground collars, so you would be able to use the PetSafe Little Dog collar with the system.

(4) I would estimate a typical life span on a base station would be ten plus years. Collars I would guess a bit less, somewhere from 5-10 years depending on how much of a beating they take. Wire tends to last 8-15 years depending on the soil type.

(5) Dogtra is a good choice. The Innotek is not a great choice given the size of your yard and the breeds of your dogs. My guess is that the German will require a higher correction than the Collie/Lab – and the Innotek does not let you do independent correction levels. Consider also the SportDog SDF-100. It has a disposable battery, but it is a regular store 9V battery that is not too expensive and the system is a fair bit cheaper and comes with more wire. I think the SportDog is particularly good if you also plan to have small dogs, because you can add in the PetSafe Little Dog collars.

(6) All the systems use similar levels of electricity, and it works out to be about $10 a year. They only emit a very low powered radio signal so have very low power drain.

Let us know if you need any further assistance!

Best Regards,

Wes Riojas
General Manager
Dog Fence DIY .com
1-888-9-DOG-DIY

What do you do when the fence works too well and the dogs won’t even go outside?

My son and I installed the IUC 4100 about a week ago, We have 3 dogs, a black Lab who adopted us 5 years ago, she is very sweet and has never been a problem leaving the yard, a big brown dog that kind of looks like an Akita or a Lab with a big head and curly tail, not sure what he is he is, also very sweet but likes to roam the neighborhood. He was a stray that everyone tolerated because he is so friendly. He hung around for about a year. Several people fed him and we let him in when it was cold or hot outside. We officially adopted him about 6 months ago after spending a small fortune on Vet bills due to injuries. Vet said he was probably hit by a car. He is the main reason for the fence. We also have a small female Pit bull that we have to keep tied up, she is also a sweet dog but she’s a Pit bull what can I say. All 3 dogs are “fixed”. After a week of dogs getting “zapped”, wife crying, our sweet black Lab went through the fence the first time off the leash and got “zapped” several more times trying to get home. All 3 dogs now are off leash supervised, and stay in the yard. The problem is they all act like they have had a “Lobotomy”. They used to get excited about going out side but not any more. When they do go out they just stand in the middle of the yard waiting to come inside, no playing ball or anything, Brownie hasn’t had a BM in 3 days because he normally goes off in the woods. I ran the wire about 20 feet into the woods for that reason but he will only go a few feet into the woods and when he sees a flag he turns around. Any suggestions or do you think they will eventually come around?

John

Hi John,

The dogs being extra cautious and avoiding the fence to the point of not wanting to be in the yard does happen from time to time. The dogs will come round in the coming weeks. You can accelerate the process by going out and playing with them in the safe area. You can also feed them in the safe area, give them bones to chew on in the safe area, and just generally hang around with them out there. This will help them get positive associations with the safe area. Just keep being a strong leader. Praise them for playing in the safe area and lavish them with affection. Do not reward them or try and console them when they act fearful. When you comfort the dog they think that there must be something scary out there, otherwise you would not be acting abnormally.

If you ever have to train other dogs on the fence, you want to avoid any crying or other distress when the dogs get corrected. The correction is definitely unpleasant, but not a big deal and the sensation completely disappears once you get back in the safe zone. You can try it on yourself (or wife/son) if you want to see for yourself. When we react badly, as the dogs leader we get them really scared. If we don’t react, but just strongly lead them back to safety, praise them, then carry on like everything is normal the dogs take a lead from us and experience the correction as no big deal. If a family member finds that hard, it is best if they take a walk while you lead the training.

If you want, you can can tell your wife that we said it is all her fault

Wes Riojas
General Manager
DogFenceDIY.com
1-888-9-DOG-DIY

A reader asks if they can teach their dog to play fetch, going through the containment system boundary.

Strange question but I was hoping you would know. Im looking at putting the Innotek/PetSafe UltraSmart IUC 5100 Contain n Train in and I wanted to know a training question. My dog and I play well in the back yard (off leash) but we want this for when were not with him. We play fetch and normally the ball will be thrown well past where we would have the underground fence (don’t worry our neighbors are ok with this). Is it possible to train the dog to know that when the color is on the boundary’s are on but when its off and we are playing fetch its ok to go over the lines to get the ball? Will this only mess everything up???

Mike

Hi Mike,

You can train the dogs to be sensitive to context and teach them that they can go through the fence when say playing catch. I would definitely wait a month or two until the dogs have learned the basic rules of the containment system. Then, I would create a ritual for the start of your fetch game – for example taking off the correction collars and then showing them the ball. Then start your game of fetch. The first few times you may have to drag him through on a leash to get him to cross the boundary – but soon he will learn that it is ok to cross when playing fetch.

The training is very similar to teaching your dogs to go for a walk through the fence. It is a little harder and it is not a sure thing, some dogs will always be cautious going through. Others will take to it straight away. Often the dogs will look toward you as if seeking permission … if so give them lots of encouragement to go through.

Wes Riojas
General Manager
Dog Fence DIY .com
1-888-9-DOG-DIY

Dan from Virginia offers some experiences and tips from his installation:

1). DIY issues
I thought that it was going to be “no problem” putting the wire in the ground. After weeks of researching the issues involved with this project, I settled for a saw that is used for cutting concrete slabs to create the ‘trenches’ I needed for the fence. Putting the wire into the trenches proved to be a lot more arduous that I thought!
One problem I didn’t see coming was that since my neighbor had an existing wooden fence, (that I thought was going to be a benefit!!) I had to create two trenches going around my lot. This doubled the work and amount of wire that I would need. Bummer . . .
I thought saving $1500 was going to be easier than it was, affirming the adage, “pay now or pay later — either way, you’re going to pay!!” But, in the end (after my knees, back, and hands healed, I was glad I did it myself (kind of). If I were rich, I would pay to have it done!

ADMIN – Two little tips: (1) you can save a lot of time using a trencher, (2) if you have a tall enough fence, you can run the wire one leg of the wire along the bottom and the retunr leg across the top and save yourself the trouble fo burying the wire. Dan could not do this here, but that may be helpful to some of you.

2). Weeks of training and how inconsistencies make the training period longer
I believed 10-15 minutes a day was not going to be difficult. It turns out that it’s very difficult to be that consistent (at least for me). Seven days turned into 10 days and errors in following the directions further increased the training period. For example, I forgot to turn on the unit one day during the second week (three weeks into the training) and the dog received no correction for crossing the line (doh!). Another time the collar was not fitted correctly and the dog didn’t receive the correction. It’s hard to be perfect!

ADMIN – really good advice, being consistent with the training really makes it faster and easier for everyone.

3). My technique during week three
I was confident my dog was “getting it” as we progressed through the training. I was the one who was reluctant to let go of the leash as a restraint. What I did next, I believe can be a training aid for others. I had one of those long cables that connects to a stake which is screwed into the ground to “chain up your dog” and used that as a leash that I let the dog just drag along the ground as she walked around the yard.
I believe that it let her know that she was still ‘controlled’ and yet semi-free, at the same time. After about a week of that, I used a standard 4′ chain leash to do the same thing. Finally, six weeks into the training, I took off the leash and she wore only her Innotek collar. My (and my dog’s) perseverance through this whole training/bonding/correcting/praising process has really paid off.

ADMIN – great tip!

4). Over-all satisfaction
I am extremely satisfied with the fence, the training instructions, and the results of this effort. We can now roam the yard (she is still being supervised, albeit less and less) and be free — both of us!!!!
I would recommend this product to anyone who is serious about controlling their dog and yet not having to build a physical fence. Great product and I appreciate your efforts to educate those trying to implement and use it. Well done!!!!

Can I have one dog on a dog fence and one dog not on the fence? Will my dog get confused?

I have two dogs: A German Shepard-Lab-Husky mix that is about 80 lbs and has a high pain threshold. He loves to run and chase every critter he can find. The other is a pure German Shepard that is about 90 lbs, has a low pain tolerance, and is very obedient. I’m mainly looking for a system that will help contain the mix, as he is the only one that wanders off the property. I have a couple questions:

1. How does the ‘Stubborn’ correction level compare to the ‘IUC 4100′? For ex. is the highest level on the ‘4100′ similar to the mid-level for ‘Stubborn’. I’m fairly sure I should get the ‘Stubborn’ to be safe, but I’m not sure.

2. My plan is to have only one dog (the mix) with a collar, while the other dog is free to roam beyond the boundary. While he rarely if ever would wander, I’m wondering if this is advisable as it could confuse the other dog.

3. If I do go with the ‘4100′ system, and I find the correction level too low, can I purchase a ‘Stubborn’ collar to use with the ‘4100′ transmitter?

Thanks so much for your help! This site is fantastic!
Thanks

ADMIN – Hi Erik,

1. The Stubborn Dog has 5 levels. Level 1 is warning beep only and levels 2 through 5 are warning beep plus correction. Level 5 on the Stubborn Dog is 3 times higher in correction than the high level on the Innotek 4100 system.

2. As long as your dog is trained well, he should not get confused. You may need to have training sessions where you walk the other dog through the boundary and tell your other dog “no”. In other words, train your dog from getting distracted with your other dog leaving the boundary.

3. Unfortunately, no. The Innotek and PetSafe systems are mutually exclusive. I suggest going with the Stubborn Dog starting on level 2 and moving up to higher levels if necessary.

4. Thanks for the feedback and you’re welcome!