Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

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{ 27 comments… read them below or add one }

Chris November 17, 2013 at 2:19 pm

help – We charged our collar for the first time and but we cannot get the mode button on the collar to work. Left a message and have not heard back. We also called PetSafe (the maker of the collar) but they do not work on Sunday.

ADMIN – Hi Chris, which is fence do you have?

Matt April 30, 2013 at 7:45 pm

I am about to install the PIG00-13619 system and I was wondering if I need to be concerned about the wireless system my next door neighbor has (it is also PetSafe based on the collar the dog has)? Thanks.

ADMIN – Hi Matt,

You can safely install a wired fence near a wireless fence. There is no interference between wired and wireless system, they operate on different frequencies.

Vicki April 23, 2013 at 12:50 am

My son has a 2 year old brittney spaniel. He can’t keep him in a fence or tied up. He is out in minutes…he can climb any fence or chew the wire or dig. He lives on a busy country road and was run over last year and on death’s doorstep but somehow pulled through. He is currently being kept in the house when they are gone but is tearing up the house. He has learned how to get out of any collar…he bought a harness type collar today and he had it off in 30 seconds. I guess I am wondering if this collar is any different that he wouldn’t be able to take it off? And also do all dogs stop when they feel the electricity or do some run right through? We are running out of options what to do with this dog.

ADMIN – Hi Vicki,

The dog fence only work if the dog wears the collar, so if he finds ways to wiggle out of a regular collar (some dogs tend to have that type of anatomy), then an electronic fence is unlikely to be useful. However, I haven’t heard of that problem in Brittney’s … is it only a problem when he is on a leash and has something to pull against?

When you install the fence you will do some training with him, and during that training we will teach him that the way he ‘switches off’ the correction is to retreat. A properly trained dog will have no idea that running through the fence is an option. (Without the training, dog’s running through instead of running back is a problem). Brittneys are smart dogs and tend to get the training quickly.

ahofstetter April 3, 2013 at 9:56 pm

I have a small & large dog with an average suburban backyard. I’d like to mount the fence to our existing wooden fence. At what height should I mount the wire to to accommodate both dogs?

ADMIN – Hi,

You can mount the dog fence at any height and just adjust the boundary width dial to make sure it covers the base of the fence. The ideal height would be around the neck height of the dogs, but that is not very important. It is however important that the height you mount the wire is consistent.

Melissa January 20, 2013 at 4:06 pm

I have just a couple questions that I haven’t seen answers too. 1. How will snow fall affect the system? We get quite a bit in our area and need to know if there is a certain amount of snow that will affect the system. 2. We have two dogs, do we need to run two lines, or can we have two collars? How does that work? Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. -Melissa

ADMIN – Hi Melissa, 1) For snow, you will need to turn up the boundary signal as the snow builds and turn it back down in the spring. The only way the snow will completely block the signal is if it builds greater than what the signal can transmit. In most cases where over an acre is used, that would be about 10 feet. 2) You can put both dogs on the same system. If they are of similar weight and size over 20 lbs, I’d recommend the PetSafe Ultrasmart PIG00-13619.

David November 7, 2012 at 6:44 pm

I have an 11 month old lab mix and a 2 year old boxer. My back yard is small but fenced in with a wooden fence. My lab tears away pickets to get out and its very frustrating. He also chews on the fence and since I rent I see this will be very expensive down the road. I was looking into a wired fence to keep them from doing anymore damage but I have one constraint. I have a back door that has a doggie door that is always open so they can come in and out all day (I live in Texas so they need to come in where its cool). Do I have to set it up as a loop or can I just run it around the fence in my backyard and still let them come in the house when they want?

ADMIN – Hi David, the fence only works in a closed loop. This means creating a back yard loop takes a bit of extra planning. We have illustrated the 3 most common back yard layouts on our site. You can see them by clicking on Planning/Layouts on the drop down menu under the heading Installation on the menu bar at the top of the page.

John October 29, 2012 at 10:46 pm

Can I use a wired system indoors? I would like to run a loop mounted underneath the floor. I am trying to contain 2 dogs into only half of the house.

ADMIN – Hi John, yes you can. With great planning you can have great success. We have seen other customers apply dog fences to this specific application.

Greg October 19, 2012 at 2:40 pm

Can you run the wire near a chain link fence?

ADMIN – Hi Greg, Yes, running the wire near on attached to a chain link fence is a perfectly acceptable solution for dog fence wire installation.

Walter September 9, 2012 at 9:14 pm

My dog did well with training and only got a correction 3 times. Now that she is off the leash she barely leaves the porch. I have over an acre flagged and she won’t go 5 feet from the house. What can I do?

ADMIN – Hi Walter, this is normal. Most dogs are very leery of the flags and make sure to stay far from them early on. You’ll want to relax with some of the following: 1) with her fence collar on, spend time playing with her in the yard even if it’s at the door. 2) Give her treats outside, 3) Take her for a walk before playing in the back yard, 4) sit outside as a family mingling and playing. Over time she will grow more relaxed and begin to venture the yard.

sarah wilson August 10, 2012 at 7:43 am

Hi, we adopted an adult foxhound who is very sweet and obedient. We have had the fence in for about a month and were patient with training her. She has only been corrected by the fence twice, but it has made a HUGE impression. Her reaction to the fence now is to hug the house and not roam the yard, with or without us, even if we bribe her with treats to come out with us and wander. Any suggestions on how we can help her get over her fear? Thanks, Sarah

ADMIN – Hi Sarah, this is quite normal. Dogs can tend to be overly cautious at first. But you’re doing correctly by giving treats. Play with her in the yard with the family as much as you can and your foxhound will relax over time.

melissa April 30, 2012 at 8:53 pm

I have an existing metal fence, can I just lay the dog fencing on the metal wire? If yes, what do I use to fasten the dog fence to the existing fence?

Admin- Hi Melissa,

You can attach the wire to the metal fence with zip ties or plastic insulators that have clips to hold them on the fence.

roger block March 17, 2012 at 1:24 pm

I am considering an electric fence. I understand the concept and all. But, my question is, if the electric fence is so good (and I’m sure it is), what keeps the other dogs from coming into the lawn when my dogs are outside? I haven’t read anything about that.

ADMIN – Hi Roger,

A dog containment system will only help you with keeping your dogs inside your yard. It does not help with keeping other dogs out. It is a limitation of these systems. If keeping neighbor’s dogs out is important, then using another solution instead of (or in addition to) the dog fence would be more appropriate.

Craig Sword March 10, 2012 at 3:36 pm

I live on a 5-acre property in So Cal. Our immediate neighbors own (and breed) 4 neurotic German Shepherd dogs. They are unruly, chase the horses, bark incessantly (literally for hours at a time; stress barking) and the neighbors don’t seem to know how to train them. My suggestions and requests for them to work with their dogs and teach them not to bark is met with hostility. I have heard about a piece of equipment that emits a high-pitched sound when a dog barks, that hurts their ears, so they stop. Do you know anything about this, or have a product that might help us? Thank you.

ADMIN – Hi Craig,

Something like this PetSafe Ultrasonic Barking Deterrent may do the trick.

Dennis January 27, 2012 at 11:59 am

I live in Costa Rica, am considering buying the Innotek 4100 for my 2 dogs on my 2.5 acre lot and having my daughter send it to me. Obviously I’ll need more than the basic 500 ft of wire and shipping & import costs would be outrageous. My questions are; 1- can I just buy the wire here or is it some special kind of electric cable? 2- is the Innotek 4100 best for my big, heavy Cane Corso and my medium American Stanford Terrier? Thanks in advance.

P.S. I’ve learned a lot from reading all of your informative webpage.

ADMIN – Hi Dennis,

Yes, you can (and should) try and get the wire domestically – the wire is very heavy and shipping it is ridiculously expensive. You can use any insulated single copper wire. If possible, get wire that is ‘direct burial’ approved. That kind of wire is going to hold up better in your soil than standard PVC wire.

With those two dogs being such different sizes, a system that lets you set the correction level of each dog separately at the collar (instead of jointly at the base station) would be a better bet. Instead of the Innotek consider the PetSafe Stubborn or the SportDog. They are similar system, both will let you set the correction level for each dog independently. The SportDog is a little more expensive but has a better base station and a better warranty.

Lambert December 2, 2011 at 8:55 am

I’ve used the Innotek SD-2000 for years with good success. My Black Lab has nicely stayed at home since installed. I agree with the down fall of the cheaper unit not knowing when battery is getting low. Can I upgrade with a new collar? Will the upgraded receiver (collar) work with the transmitter from the SD-2000?

ADMIN – Hi Lambert,

Afraid the SD-2000 transmitter will not work with any other collars (except the SD-3000 collars which also lack a battery indicator). If you want to upgrade the collar you will also need to switch out the transmitter. However you can keep the existing wire in the ground.

Dries October 5, 2011 at 5:32 pm

Reading through all the various questions and comments on this sight, I’m still don’t know which fence system to buy – the Innotek 4100 or the Petsafe Stubborn for my 7 month old German Shepherd. I expect him to get to about 80-85 lbs and his bloodlines are bred specifically for working (Police dogs, SAR, Schutzhund, etc) so expect him to be pretty resistant to pain. Any specific feature/attribute that I should consider to tip the scale one way or the other? Also, how do the 3 correction levels on the Innotek compare to the 5 on the Stubborn? In other words, are the 1-3 on the Innotek the same as the 1-3 on the Stubborn? Or perhaps 1-3 Innotek same as 2-4 on Stubborn? Or 1-3 Innotek = 1, 3, 5 Stubborn? Get my drift? Thanks.

Admin- Hi Dries,

We recommend the PeSafe Stubborn/Large dog system for larger breads like a German Shepherd. You will be more flexible with the correction levels on the PetSafe stubborn dog. The 3 levels of correction on the Innotek are very similar to levels 2-4 on the PetSafe stubborn. Level 1 on the stubborn is warning tone/vibrate only and level 5 is five times stronger than level 4.

Confused July 10, 2011 at 8:26 pm

I just started training my 2 year old Shiba Inu dog with the UltraSmart IUC 4100 dog fence. I am currently in step one. For some reason the collar does not beep until my dog has walked past the training flags. Is it supposed to do this? If I take his collar off and hold it myself, it beeps right at the flag. I am afraid this will confuse him. Also it seems he does not even pay attention to the beep, so when I say No! No! No! and run the other way, he looks at me as if to say “Why are you doing this?” Please help!

ADMIN – Hi Marissa,

You are on the right track.

As long as the beep is going off somewhere near the flags all is well.

With a Shiba, no reaction is typical in Step 1. I find them generally a pretty hard headed dog. They are still observing and learning, they just won’t react because at the moment he sees no reason to do anything. Keep on with the training. You will notice when you get to step 2, that he will be a completely different dog. Once you apply the correction, a light will go off in his head and he will realize why you were telling him No and asking him to retreat.

Cory Feustel April 19, 2011 at 2:04 pm

I DO INSTALLATIONS USING INNOTEK PRODUCTS. I USE A HONDA ROTORTILLER WITH A KIT INSTALLED TO LAY THE WIRE. IS THERE SOMETHING OUT THERE THAT WOULD BE EASIER TO USE WITH ONE PERSON. WHAT TYPE OF EQUIPMENT DO YOU USE TO INSTALL WIRE.

ADMIN – Hi Cory,

We use the EZ Trench small cable installers. Here’s what we’ve used and recommend for our customers:

http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/burying-the-wire/trencher/

Louis April 10, 2011 at 7:02 pm

I recently purchased the Stubborn Dog Kit. With the extra wire I ordered came 2 splices. There were no instructions how to use these. I’m not very intuitive when it comes to these things, how do I use them? Thanks.

ADMIN – Hi Louis,

There are two types of splices. The newer 3M splices, are clear have three holes and a button on top. With these splices you strip a bit of insulation off the end of both wires you are splicing together, you insert the two wires in any two holes in the splice, then push down hard on the button to lock the wires in place.

The older splices are a wire nut plus a gel-filled capsule. You strip a little insulation off the end of the two wires you are splicing together, twist them together in the wire nut, then plunge the wire and wire nut into the gel filled capsule and close the capsule door to lock them in place.

Michael Smith April 9, 2011 at 12:46 am

My yard is fenced other than up by the garage. I have about 30 feet that I would like to contain, is there a smaller cheaper kit that i can buy?

ADMIN – Hi Michael,

If you are doing a small area, less than 50 feet then you can use the Paws Away Rock Set. The set is much cheaper than a full system and is easier to put in, but can only use a maximum of 150 feet of boundary wire – so isn’t much use where the area you need to block is greater than 50 feet. But, that should work fine for you. What kind of dog are we containing.

Kip March 26, 2011 at 3:31 pm

I have 2 small dogs. A mini-wiener (7 lbs) and another lovable mutt (14lbs). Do you have a recommendation for a wired system that does not require a proprietary battery. The PetSafe LittleDog would work, but they’re thieves for making me pay $8/month ongoing – isn’t $400 up front enough?

ADMIN – Hi Kip,

Afraid, for the Mini Weiner, the PetSafe Little Dog is the only good choice and this of course comes with the $10 proprietary battery. Everything else is too big and has the correction levels set too high. For the bigger dog, you could use a PetSafe Deluxe collar, it is a little bigger and also uses a proprietary battery but it is much cheaper costs around $4.

We share your distaste for expensive proprietary batteries. You can squeeze out about 3 months out of the batteries if you turn the collar off when not in use.

Mann December 23, 2010 at 8:48 pm

I have read that the border needs to be a complete loop of wire, but the way my yard is laid out there is some areas that I want the dog to get through, can I put the wire in some 1 inch diameter pvc tubing and bury it, would he be able to get through that area without getting corrected. Any other ideas would be cool, thanks.

ADMIN – Hi Mann,

The best way to create gaps in the boundary is to raise the wire high enough above the ground so that the signal does not reach the dog at ground level. You can also be devious about the kind of loop you make, doubling back on yourself (with six feet of separation between opposite sections of wire) and doing other such trickery to get your desired layout while still meeting the loop requirement. If you email us a diagram, we are happy to lend a hand in designing the layout.

Inserting the boundary wire into PVC or metal tubing will not block the signal, nor will burying the wire (unless you go 2+ feet down).

Krystal July 16, 2010 at 6:35 pm

I purchased the Innotek IUC 4100. I used about 1200 ft of wire, but I have used over 150 flags to mark the boundary. The back of my property is wooded, hilly, and rocky, so I had to put the flags close together so our dogs could distinguish their boundary. I have read that through successful training, the dogs could be contained within the flags away from home (without wire/correction). My husband and I are going out of town, and family members will be watching our dogs at their house for a week. Our dogs are very familiar and comfortable with their home. We would like to put the flags around our family members’ home, so that our dogs may roam their yard supervised, but not leashed. However, I am out of flags and will not be ready to take ours up at that point. I would like 100-150 flags (the metal flags-plastic ones are horrible!), but I do not see where I can purchase only flags on your website? I really trust Dog Fence DIY, and prefer to do business only here. Could the flag-alone containment work, and where can I get more flags?

ADMIN – Hi Krystal,

Flag only containment works with trained dogs but is of course not as reliable because eventually the dogs figure out there is no correction associated with these flags. I would only use it when the dogs are under supervision and would not use it where there is a serious safety hazard nearby, because the consequences of a slip-up are too great. All that said, lots of people use the flags when they are say camping to keep the dogs nearby. So when you finish training your dogs and pull up the flags be sure to save a few.

You can get more dog fence boundary flags in our store here: http://dogfencediy.com/store/wire/boundary-flags.html.

You can also pop down to your local hardware store and get boundary flags in the gardening of plumbing section. They use similar flags to mark pesticide application or to mark utility lines respectively. These flags look very similar to the ones used for dog fence training.

Karl Goeres May 27, 2010 at 7:05 pm

I am trying to figure out which electronic fence to buy. I have a “Smart Dog In-Ground Pet Fencing System” which does not work (so the dog may be smarter than me because I bought a cheap China knock-off on Craigs list but at least I’m not out a lot of money) but I need to get something that works. I have a couple of questions-

Does the Innotek SD-3000 “trainer” work without the rest of the system? For example can I take the collar and the correction device outside of the in groung fence and use it?

Several of the fences advertised on your website indicate that they cover several acres yet they only come with 1000 feet of wire. One square acre takes over 800 feet of wire so I’m not getting the relationship of wire supplied with area covered. I am assuming that the coverage is a function of wire length not area? What is the maximum length of wire that the units can handle? This is particular interest to me for the Innotek SD- 3000 if the correction device can be used outside of the fenced perimeter.

I don’t understand the “wire twisting” issue with the fences. It appears that there are 2 antennas and as long as the 2 antenna wires are not twisted it shouldn’t matter what kind of wire is used. The signal should see a stranded wire as one conductor as long as it’s not wrapped around a different antenna. My point is that stranded wire should work the same as solid wire as long as the two antennas (or +/-) are not wrapped together. Is this correct?

Thanks for taking my questions

Karl

ADMIN – Hi Karl,

1) Yes, the remote trainer works separately from the fence transmitter. You can take it and use it when you walk the dog for example.

2) Most systems come with 500 feet of wire which will cover up to 1/3 of an acre. The SD 3000 has a capacity of 5 acres. Our comparison chart shows all the yard capacities of all the in-ground fences: http://www.dogfencediy.com/reviews/. Also, here’s a chart on deciding how much extra wire you’ll need: http://www.dogfencediy.com/faqs/how-much-wire/.

3) All the 20 gauge wire we sell is solid copper core wire. The 18 gauge wire we sell is stranded. No real difference in terms of functionality. Twisted wire is simply the boundary wire twisted together. When twisted together, one twist per inch, it cancels the radio signal coming transmitting on that section of twisted wire. There is no +/- with the wire. Our twisted wire page may be useful for understanding it’s function and the only places you can use it: http://www.dogfencediy.com/installation/plan/twisted-wire/

Gareth McAllister February 27, 2010 at 12:51 pm

I understand the caution on running the underground fence parallel to an underground electrical wire. What about a cable TV/internet/phone underground wire?

ADMIN – Hi Gareth,

There are rarely any issues with utility wires. If possible avoid running parallel to utilities. If you have to run parallel to utilities, just test inside the house with the collar to make sure that the dog fence signal has not jumped into any of those wires and is causing the collar to trigger in unwanted places.

Gareth McAllister February 20, 2010 at 10:41 am

I think the instructions that I see recommend that the wire for the underground fencing is not buried deeper than 6″. This seems like it is so shallow that a plug cut areator will cut the wire. Can you bury deeper and then just turn up the boundary width?

ADMIN – Hi Gareth,

You can go down to about a foot deep (depending on your system and the amount of land you are fencing in). You turn up the boundary width, and you can also adjust the field size button to a higher setting to make the unit send out a stronger signal. Keep in mind that if you are not consistent in how deep you bury the wire, the boundary width will end up being much wider in some segments (e.g. where you have the wire running above ground) than where you have it buried deeply.

decamp February 18, 2010 at 12:27 pm

Bonjour,
J’ai acheté cette cloture mais malheureusement, mon chien a mangé le transformateur (le cordon d ‘alimentation qui part de la prise de courant et qui rejoint l’emetteur)
Est il possible d’en commander un autre et a quel prix avrc les frais de ports.
Merci à l’avance de votre reponse
E

ADMIN – the writer asks if you can get a replacement power adapter for the base station (his dog ate the old one). The adapters are available through the manufacturers – we also stock the adapaters for the most popular models. They cost around $30 and shipping costs around $10 to the US and around $30 to France (where we presume the reader hails from)

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